ihe B35 Bite} ath beanies Sith} sats $i ety ts hh Jirden new Cowp/ofe ex } » — Australia ee md MARCH ISSUE, 1946 Published Quarterly | Vol. 11. No. | \STHE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE ORCHID SOCIETY OF NEW SOUTH WALES (INCORPORATING THE NEWCASTLE ORCHID CIRCLE), THE QUEENSLAND ORCHID © SOCIETY AND THE VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB. Page ii AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 ORCHIDS Quantity - Quality - Variety e Cc. H. DEANE Girrahween Nurseries 190 WOLLONGONG RD., ARNCLIFFE SYDNEY, N.S.W. - TEL. LX1106 (25 ee a SDE a Bg eee CCC EE LEE ECOCLLCECLLCCLLCLLOL Joh wh oem WSL NN NL NDS TSS AN NOON dS NL) om out ou out om oot nm wn om ou en ns wt In Advertising since the element of time is one to be reckoned with—as it has important underlying effects, particularly on the volume of future business. Efficient process engraving is an offective ally when up against "time." Turning to the fine art studios at 89 William Street, you are sure of RESULTS not EXCUSES in the hour of urgency. A free enterprise, not process engraving as a sideline, a progressive organisation noted for the consistent quality of its work—maintained by..... PHOTO-ENGRAVING ART COMPANY PROPRIETARY LIMITED 8 9 wk bh oe AM STREET, SYDNEY On Time and in Step with Advertising @ ustralian___ WEEE: i orea Y Y. MV N N Wild? ee “dit Z tL LLL Ete | a sy Ly cresyl? ae a jg ds “zg WO SS \ WS Y YW) O yyy \\ y \\ G GU vay ZG Wy. Jka j MD Le y “4, y WH ft ; 7 Yi We Me Wy ey tha uy Wi “ME yy yyy GP “rrp aaa ‘Mt dd Lo idddddetedtiddiddaar> COMPOSITE | INDEX Volumes 11, 12 and 13 — 1946, 1947, ‘1948 COMPILED BY E. PECKOVER Index to Articles - - - - - - Page 3 Index to Illustrations - - - : ae - - Page 6 THE AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW Official Organ of THE ORCHID SOCIETY OF NEW SOUTH WALES ORCHID CLUB OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA QUEENSLAND ORCHID SOCIETY VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB PUBLISHED QUARTERLY by SHEPHERD & NEWMAN PTY. LTD. YURONG STREET, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA Subscription Rates: Australia, 10/- sterling per annum; Overseas, 10/- sterling per annum, post free. Payable to the Publishers. Current and Back Numbers and Advertising Rates obtainable from the Publishers. Index to Articles About “Cane” Orchids Adelaides Men sees ee After-care of Seedlings Amateur Orchid Cultivation in U.S.A. Among Victoria’s Orchid Collections .... An Appeal Angraecum Annual Spring Exhibition, 1946 Appreciation of Mr. Bruce Hogg Australian Orchid Review and the Co-operation of Growers Award Judging Awards issued by the Wales during 1945 Awards issued by the Orchid Society of New South WWealesaic urin Gee 946 Meneacee cece anemt mee tie Wey come ohh red Awards issued by the Orchid Society of New South Wales during 1945, 1946 and 1947 occ: susie Awards issued by the Victorian Orchid Club during 1946 and 1947 Ballarat Orchid and Begonia Club Cattleyasmiey. wan meee eaten Cattleyas, More Heat for . Cattleyas and Vandas, Cool House Culture COStIYARELY DI 1CS manana een teen Cultural Notes for Queensland. ..... Cultural Notes for South Australia .. Cultural Notes for Victoria Cymbidiums Cymbidiums—and Glass . Cymbidiums at Caulfield COppevaheS(ObUUTOOKS, COMUTRUERS) (OE cee reantvmionaticnnstmertoseminater nt Cymbidiums in Sydney, Observations on Cymbidiums, Observations on Housing them Cymbidiums, Why do they not flower freely? Cypripediums Cypripediums, a Talk on the Genus ... Cypripediums, Culture Of nda Cypripediums, The pert beat of Cypripedium callosum. .......... a Cypripedium Show, Victorian ‘Orchid Club Dendrobium Canaliculatum sha Dendrobium D’Albertisii_ .... Dendrobium Johnsoniae Dendrobium Phalaenopsis var. Compactum . Dendrobium speciosum var. Hillii . OCNALODIUMMEL OL Llimeermne remem nenan TDI POOLE MEH S1t OLLI menace sean tener erent tumeea Naar tects Dipodium Punctatum Export of Orchid Flowers Oe oe pe D9 CO et 00 00 Rt 09 0 DY St 09 Co RD 0 oR rw) Vol. 12 11 12 12 12 13 11 11 12 12 13 11 11 13 No. PW PWD Pe we 09 0 Reo 94 62 103 76 86 108 Feeding of Orchids, The ......... From the Editor’s Mail Bag . Gravel Culture Or Hydroponics oc ccccccsseersnemncmsnnseene : Greenhoods of New South Wales, Some Notes on ...... Hints on Importing Orchids History of the Firm of Stuart Low Co. Hobart\)) 2re.3h ehh ae FLODALteOTChHicie GID peer se ee terete teeta eds rats ertcor ee Hot Boxes for Orchid Propagation... Hybridization= seen Hybridization, The Principles of ...... In Memoriam—Alexander JOHN M CFIC iccccccccsnrtnnenen Insects and Allied Pests Of Orchids -cccccccccsccnnsneneeneenesnne John Bisset’s Show, 1946 . Gibrary Notes) vscsdse Lizards, Frogs and Praying Mantis .. Lure of the Orchid, The ... Lycaste Skinneri_ .....000.0.... Magnetic Island Orchids . Maiden’s Blush Orchid .... IMiscellonesusm: OLChidSiaene seem eran ey irene nr aennanat Mistletoemonma nikOrChicl meseapeetenr amen eee tee tare nnres Newcastle Orchid Circle... Newcastle Orchid Circle Show, 1947 cccccccccccncssnmen Nitrogen Bacteria and Orchid Seedlings ....... .... New South Wales Orchid Society’s First and Second Annual Competitive Shows ...... Pe a ck sek Wm New South Wales Orchid Society’s Winter Shows, 1947 and 1948 : New Year’s Day in Bed . New Zealand Orchid Society . Northern Rivers Orchid eg ae Notes and News Vol. 12 11 12 12 12 11 13 13 12 12 12 13 11 11 12 11 12 13 13 12 13 13 13 12 11 12 12 11 12 12 il 13 13 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 N PPP RP EWWORNVEL DPD PWN SH PY oD oo POO et OO _ PP RYDE HP Rw wD Se Pe ip co to 00 09 Wet 9 Page 106 106 103 Vol. 11 12 mal? 13 13 13 13 12 13 13 No. OPW PRPRPWNVDEEP RWWNONYVAER HR eR PR ww OED Page 100 46 106 66 62 87 87 19 88 60 41 100 105 Notes for Novices Odontoglossum Family Odontoglossum Grande .. Orchid Circle in Ceylon -necccccccccnnnennnnen Orchid Culture in North Queensland Orchid Display at Murwillumbah . OLCHid Experiences vceccsinessnsssnssneneseis Orchid Flora of the Blue Mountains Orchids for Beginners ommncnmeennn Orchids for Beginners—Sydney . Orchids from Seed Orchid Garden in Launceston . Orchid Hints for Beginners—Brisbane Orchid Industry in England . Orchidswingee lOvid sameeren Orchid Magazines of the World Orchids of Cape York, Notes on Orchids on Bougainville cnn PH Values and their Relation to Orchids POLS Bearers a Parents of ‘Cymbidium | ‘Hybrids - JD Propagation of Orchids from Seed RUDLCECLONS ELE CELV.CC Maen en an nnn ant nnnnen nen a nUALE ns Queenslander visits Hawaii Quiz Corner .... Queensland Orchid Society, Annual Report Selenipedium Sedenii ........ Some Orchid Questions .. South Australia’s Orchid Exhibitions, 1946, 1947 and 1948 . drt G a Starting a General Collection Strap Leaf Vandas in Queensland .. Study of crculdology in Australia Sydney Orchid Club . T. H. James retires .... Tale of a pecs The . ane bark Ten Orchids for “Beginners—Queensland Townsville Orchid Society msc Treatment of Imported Orchids .... Two New Orchids from Western Australia . Vanda Sanderiana_.......... Vegetative Propagation of. “Orchids . Veteran Grower. Mr. E. J. Beard . Victorian Orchid Club Activities... Victorian Orchid Club Shows, 1946, 1947 and 1948 ....... Wardian Case, A .. prhtieee Western Suburbs Orchid “Society’s “Shows, “1946 and 1947 ul What to Lecture about . Why the Variation in Hybrids? ; Worries of & Beginner occcccnninnn CORO NYP RWWWRW RR RW HORE NON PRE E EW H PNW DERE PR RwWHWwWHWWNUNNPHWRE WHO EZ Oo; Page 108 Ra ao AROaAD 104 Lelie | wo 104 ona COrwnmsd 102 np Vs > og 107 we Ol 10 RHO 0 COP Oo 10 88 AADWwpP arNoOoS; Vol. 11 11 12 12 13 11 12 13° 11 “13 12 13 13 12 13 12 13 Op d pw Page 36 98 35 96 76 95 94 90 28 45 93 67 Index to Hilustrations Angraecum Brassocattleya Chieftan . Brassocattleya Cliftonville Bridal Bouquet come Calanthe veratrifolia ........ Cattleya amethystoglossa Cattleya Blooms .......... Cattleya Dupreana ..... Chart pollen and ovules Coelogyne Massangeana .. Cymbidium Cassandra var. Toxteth Cymbidium Dorchester occ Cymbidium Girrahween var. Enid Cymbidium Imbrog...... Cymbidium Janette ..... Cymbidium Joyance No. 1 ..... Cymbidium Jungfrau. F.C.C., R.H.S. Cymbidium Miranda var. Maisie Cymbidium Princesse Astrid... Cymbidium Swallow, Westonbirt var. Cymbidium Tangie ........... Cypripedium callosum... Cypripedium Donald Ayres. H.C., O.S. Cypripedium Golden Emblem Cypripedium Grand Monarch Cypripedium Insigne guareteld Ha Cypripedium Parishii_ ............. Cypripedium Wendover, var. “VE. “DAY : Dendrobium Bigibbum var. Phalaenopsis . Dendrobium Canaliculatum Dendrobium Goldiei occu Dendrobium Infundibulum .... Dendrobium Phalaenopsis like .. Dendrobium speciosum var. Hillii . Dendrobium thyrsiflorum . Dendrobium Tofftii_ ....... Dipodium punctatum Epidendrum Ciliare ...... Electrically heated Propagating Box Glass-house in Launceston cece Gold Medal Group (Sanders Ltd.) : “Greenhood” Pterostylis . Hot Box Diagrams .. Laelia ANCEPS occ Laeliocattleya Alata x Le. Woden . Dah Messrs. Gurney Wilson and James L. Humphreys examining blooms Mr. E. J. Beard ............. Mr. W. H. Hatcher Mirae Heed &IMCS maw Mr. Einar Petersen’s Cymplasums 4 Miltonia Etta, once Miltonia Vexillaria var, “Snowflake: Mistletoe Seedling ecco Monadenia Austaliensis . Odontoglossum Alorcus var. Excellis . Odontoglossum Grande . Oncidium. .......... Orchids from seed (Mr. “A. R. Persson) pH Values Scale ... Phalaenopsis Schilleria RM rW NU RW RNY AW AWE PRR RRND WW WUE RAMEE REY ROE EEN WW RARWH WHY ANED Z 9° Page 41 13 40 100 37 39 15 71 16 TT 99 87 97 69 71 43 13 15 24 41 96 Vol. 13 13 13 No. Page 42 44 70 Phalaenopsis Serpentilingua — Shipment of Australian Orchids Stamps of Colombia. ..... Stanhopea Tigrina._ ...... Thelymitra Cucullata Unique Orchid Garden Vanda Coerulea. ......... Vanda Mrs. Dinger . Vanda Sanderiana. ... Vanda TricOlour ..-cccccccen Zygopetalum Crinitum 13 13 13 13 11 11 11 13 11 13 13 WP PW RWWWN PE 13 98 43 72 71 73 93 69 95 100 44 13 16 Now for Sale at all Booksellers A CULTURAL TABLE OF ORCHIDACEOUS PLANTS by J. MURRAY COX ° Illustrated in Colour and Black and White and containing more than 400 pages Price per copy, 4 Guineas. (Postage |/- extra) Published by THE SHEPHERD PRESS YURONG STREET, SYDNEY N.S.W., AUSTRALIA Special Announcement to Orchid Enthusiasts | have much pleasure in announcing the publication of THE CHARM OF GROWING ORCHIDS, by P. A. Gilbert. This is the first book on exotic orchids to be published in Australia, and com- prises 232 pages of general information, cultural notes, etc., and photographs. Price: 21/-. Postage 1/- extra. Sole Publisher and Distributor: N N :48 W ba St., Abbotsford—WA 1124 JOHN BISSET rete rnp eT 8906 Private: 8 Brisbane Avenue, (Also at City Markets every Friday) AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW Volume II MARCH, 1946 The author of each article is responsible for the facts and opinions expressed therein. CONTENTS AINYSGSEO ee ‘ee Fle Retttins re thes ss ee eae he 4 Australian Orchid Review and the Co-operation of growers 99. mm 3 Awards issucd by the ©.S. of N.S.W., 1945 920 cc © sess cnt tees 4 Gattleyas mamas eneee Oe? mite weep “Lado Sad eh lig tigen to 11 Cypripedium, a talk on the genus 99 ee. © cee | ste te tte are 20 Charsrrclisrg ae te eS ee seg 8 inka Nace; IDES) ty yeh ee ee ake faethe = ale 22% Notes mt OLN OV Cesar ar? kat ee. oe ‘ei ss 6 Orchid Circle of Ceylon so set) citi rt, Sires ot, perl. MG) OrchidologyaeingeA Ustr al 12 it a waht: ig Mein Wee eas » 10 Queensland Orchid Society, Annual Report ee A ee ew 19 Oirzas Corn ca ne rs rib) oe Siphon es ie Hi 9 Selenipedium, Sedenii 9, ee ce es ek og ee 14 Scme Orchid Questions __..... Sook rae te, sec ko a ae 1K} Victorian cultural notes —_....» if Pg ee UR ee liek 5 Why the variation in hybrids? he pe ef ee ae 15 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS ; Chart, pollen and ovules Ss ee eae 8s Se ee act ALG Peart Cypripedum, Grand Monarch __..... Son pte nats ahhh) ane eri 2p : Cypripedium, Wendover, var. “V.E. Day” Ieeol cae “dee oe io 23 Dendrobium, Infundibulum ow, ene Hee em ire UO alee 2 L. C. Alata x L. C. Woden nes ee en Bante hon ee 13 Subscription Rates: Australia and New Zealand, 6/- per annum; Overseas, 6/- sterling per annum. Post free. Payable to Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney. CARE YOUR ORCHIDS with PESTO XOL” (LIQUID) "PESTOXOL" is specially suited for the treatment of Orchids and has been proven by actual tests in the bush-house and green-house. " PESTOXOL" destroys Scale, Thrips, Red Spider, Green and Black Fly, Mealy Bug, Caterpillar, Blight: Gc and is perfectly safe in use not only on Orchids, but on Ferns and tender green- ouse plants. : 10oz, Bottles ......... 2/6 each. $ gallon Jars ......... 16/6 each: All Orchid Dealers and Seedsmen ars F. H. FAULDING & CO. LTD. Gober wate and Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Brisbane, and London (Eng.) | i | | | | | | AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 2 *2]0D uiqoy &q ydrss0j04q “AyS'N ‘uPiusoyy ‘a1pooy Apsinyy &g umosy WNTINGIGNNANI WOIkOudNad AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 3 The Australian Orchid Review and the Co-operation of Growers @ After many years’ experience of growing various genera of orchids, one is inclined to be- come very self satisfied with certain fixed ideas and methods concerning the culture of these plants. By following the same methods over a long period and enjoying a fair measure of success, one becomes conyinced that these methods are the correct ones; and when discus- sing matters of culture with other growers and different opinions are expressed, whether they may concern light, watering, manuring or divi- sion, etc., one is tempted to be cynical and doubt the wisdom of other growers’ opinion. How often do we hear the remark “Just wait a year or two and see how many plants survive such treatment.” Yet despite the treatment we condemn, we see the same plants with others, exhibited time after time growing and flowering profusely. Surely therefore it becomes appar- ent that it is neither practical or possible to lay down strict rules or methods of culture that would suit every individual grower’s conditions. Success therefore must be gained by studying the local position and experimenting with the plants, at the same time observing other local 8rowers methods and ideas. Thus we discover that many of our self-formed theories may not be so good after all, and that the other fellow’s method has a lot to commend it. In order to gain the fullest assistance from all the known methods and benefit from any new and tried Ones, there must be co-operation and pooling of information between growers on all aspects of this fascinating hobby. JM have found that, in Orchid culture, the incentive to help and advise the beginner is very Pronounced; but in many cases, the beginner 1s confused by the many and varied opinions expressed. As we have our Orchid Societies and ubs in most of the States of the Common- wealth, surely no better opportunity could be Wished for to give that co-operation and pool- ing of informatoin than through our own indi- vidual Society. Given this free exchange of ideas and experiences our Societies possess and supply a wealth of information that is of vast assistance to members in their various problems and the means of improving certain difficult to Stow varieties in our collections. _ Having reached this stage within our Socie- ties, why keep our knowledge within the boun- daries of the State? Should there not be the same co-operation and pooling of information between the Societies as there is between grow- ers? No doubt the Hon. Editor of the Azs- tralian Orchid Review is thinking along parallel lines! As its title implies the A.O.R. should be thoroughly representative of all aspects of Or- chid culture throughout Australia and should be able to advise growers on their problems, and supply the latest information on all that per- tains to Orchids and their culture. It will be seen therefore that all Societies owe it to them- selves to see that all information and news is supplied to the Review, and the Review in its turn must publish information which will prove of value and interest to readers in various parts of the Commonwealth. The A.O.R. should be a journal of interna- tional renown commanding the respect of grow- ers throughout the world. It should prove a valuable instrument of introduction to over- seas growers and result in a general exchange of plants and an interchange of ideas and items of general information, As a guide to Inter-state visitors it can be priceless. It should be the symbol of honest dealing and an incentive to membership of the local Society. One often hears the remarks, ““How easy they grow Cattleyas and Dendrobiums in Queensland” and “Cym- bidiums and Cypripediums do much better down South,” etc., etc. Now all these topics form splendid subject matter for the pooling of in- formation and co-operation between the Socie- ties and the A.O.R. and would make very help- ful articles for readers. With a brighter future ahead and a resumption of oversea importations the general pooling of information through a representative journal would prove a boon to all Societies throughout the continent. In con- clusion I look forward with confidence to see- ing the Australian Orchid Review at least main- tain its standard on the level of the English and American Journals as a source of informa- tion on all aspects of Orchid Culture in Aus- tralia. And now may I send greetings from Queens- land to growers throughout the Common- wealth. May all their plants receive the itten- tion they deserve and prosper, and flower gen- erously throughout the year 1946. C. A. HILSDEN, President Queensland Orchid Society. Page 4 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 PERSONNEL Hon. Editor: ASSOCIATES: W. WORTH Victoria: Queensland: pa Wardsse R. BRUCE HOGG L. C. HOME Willoughby, N.S.W. James Miller & Co. Pty. Ltd. 26 Taylor St. Phone: JA 1533 Dawson St. Buranda S.2 Brunswick N.10 Brisbane Orchid Societies in the States not represented above are invited to nominate a representative. Awards issued by the Orchid Society of N.S.W. during the year 1945 All awards carry the year and the State, thus: “Award of Merit 1945 N.S.W.” or “Silver Medal 1945 N.S.W.” A condition of the granting of an award by the Orchid Society of N.S.W. is that a photograph of the plant be taken and left with the Society for future reference and identification. A necessary precaution that will be enforced now that photographic material is ayail- able. First Class Certificate and Silver Medal: (Grand Monarch, Hodgins variety), W. Fahey. Silver Medal: Meritorious display of Cymbidiums and other orchids at Annual Exhibition, C. C. Hildebrandt. Bronze Medal: A meritorious. display of miscellaneous Orchids, Dr. A. L. Lyell. Bronze Medal: Collection of miscellaneous Orchids in- cluding native species, L. Sasso. Award of Merit: Vanda, Sanderiana, N. S. F.°Mac- Donald. Cypripedium, Memphis, Hoggs var. W. Fahey. Cymbidium, Charm, var. Elegans, L. F.Hawley. Cym,- bidium® Balkis ,var. Patricia, C. C. Hildebrandt. Cym- bidium, Louis Sander x Falcon, Dr. J. A. Vote. Cymbid- ium, Louis Sander, var. Kirribilli, T. Burns. Cymbidium, Joy Sander, var. Don, A. R. Begg. Cypripedium, Wen- dover, var. V.E. Day, W. Fahey. Cymbidium, Girrah- ween, var. Glorious, C. R. Deane. Cymbidium, Cassan- dra, var. Snow Queen, F. Moulen. Cypripedium Emberton, R. Richards. Highly Commended: B.L. Cattleya, The Friar, N. S. F. MacDonald. Cypripedium, Mildred Hunter, L. Cohen. “Appreciation” @ In the September issue of the A.O.R. Mr. Bruce Hogg contributed an article relative to a visit paid to Adelaide and his impressions of Orchid collections he inspected. Mr. Hogg referred to one collection including Cymbidiums that were obviously starved and he was good enough to have samples of that grower’s composts analized, disclosing the fact that the p.H. values were definitely alkaline. I would now like to disclose that those plants were part of my small collection. Until Mr. Hogg’s disclosure I ridiculed some of the comments frequently expressed about Cypripedium | Cymbidium, Arabella, R. Dart. Cymbidium, Edzell, var. Elizabeth, C. C. Hildebrandt, Cymbidium, Swallow, var. Hebe, Dr. J. A. Vote. Cymbidium, Princess Elizabeth, var. Gillian, Dr. K. Kirkland. Cymbidium, Erica Sander, var. Tanandra, E. A. Hamilton. Lycaste, Skinneri, var. Excelsa, L. H. Newman. Cymbidum, Swallow, var. Con- quest, W. Rothwell. Cymbidium, Shirley, yar. Her Maj- esty, W. Rothwell. Dendrobium, Gatton Belle, Dr. A. C. Burstal. Cultural Certificate, Peristeria, elata, C. Carter. Laelia Cattleya, Fascinator, A. E. Coleman, Laelia Cattleya, Pur- purata, A. E. Coleman. Oncidium, sphacelatum, L. Sasso. p.H. values, but I am now convinced that care must be taken regarding it. We have experienced three years of bad drought, and insufficient rainwater could be col- lected to tide us over the summer months and I perforce had to use reservoir water which has a p.H. value of 8.2 and higher. Since last November, we have had some very helpful rains and I have three useful size tanks full to overflowing, and my plants have had none other than rain water since. After visiting Melbourne in September, to enjoy the wonderful display of Orchids, I have’ repotted most of my Cymbidiums, using the spent Tan Bark Compost as used by Melbourne growers with remarkable results, but a dozen or more plants were left in the old compost without any other treatment other than water- ing them with rain instead of reservoir water— these plants are looking fine and making splen- | did growths. I conclude that irrespective of the constitu- ents of the compost, if alkaline water is used, this will rapidly change the p.H. of the com- post to a high alkaline nature and the root sys- tem will perish. I am deeply grateful for Mr. Hogg’s help and advice. FRANK H. De ROSE. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 5 Victorian Cultural Notes March, April, May. R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vic. @ The majority of your Cymbidiums should have developed flower spikes by the time this Is issued. Carefully examine the base of the new season’s growth, and if it is going to flower the flower spike will break from between the small bottom leaf and the second leaf or just outside the base of the growth. ‘The flower spike is sometimes rather difficult to recognise from an ordinary leaf growth, but it is usually rounder and more parallel and generally carries more colour than a leaf growth. Now is the time in which you can give your plants feed for the coming flowering season, for there is little doubt that the quality of the flower is largely related to the vigour of the plant producing it. Some growers use Mile’s liquid cow manute for this purpose, fortnightly. I am not keen on it because I think it breaks the compost down too rapidly, and I prefer to use Clay’s fertiliser. This is obtainable from large seedsmen in capital cities. About a tea- spoonful of Clay’s sprinkled over the surface of the pot and watered in once a fortngiht should assist greatly. Clay’s also, has the fac- ulty of hardening the plants, and this is an- other reason why I prefer it to liquid manure, and I have heard growers express the opinion that perhaps through this hardening you get more flowers when using Clay’s as a fertiliser than with other fertilisers. _ With your Cypripediums, those which are go- ing to flower should have the flower bud devel- Oped in the centre of last year’s growth. If you feel the base of the growth and feel a large lump there, that is the flower bud, and when this bud first makes itself known is the time When you should avoid overhead watering until the bud stands on its own stem quite clear of the foliage, for the flower buds are very subject to town rot if water lays in the ape of the growth bearing them. _, When you receive your copy of the Journal, if you have not already done it, this is an excellent time in which to clean up your plants and free them from disease, and I suggest that you endeavour to obtain an empty 123 gallon water drum, add one part of Volck to 40 parts of water, and one part of Pestoxol to about 60 Parts of water, and dip each plant in this mix- ture, being careful by use of the fingers to stop the soil from contacting the mixture. After dipping, shake the plants well to remove the surplus mixture and lay on their sides until they dry. This will stop the further surplus from draining back along the stems into the soil. This should get rid of all scale, thrip and most other pests which worry your Orchids. ‘This also is the time when a determined attack should be made on slugs and snails, for they will play “Old Harry” with your flower buds if they are not exterminated. The surest way is to use an electric torch a few hours after sundown, search carefully for them and kill all that you find. As an added precaution use one of the standard slug and snail killers, but be sure you purchase one of post-war manufacture contain- ing meta. When you receive this issue the sun will have started to lose a little of its strength, and a gradual relaxation in the use of shade should start on receipt of the issue, and shade should be completely eliminated about the end of April. During March, shade on all sunny days. During April, I would suggest that you shade only on unseasonably hot days, and in May, you discon- tinue altogether. As your flower spikes grow use long stakes to support them, and encourage them to grow as you desire them to. The twisting that one sees with many Cymbidiums can be corrected with a little patience and a few stakes. Also, small cane stakes should be used to hold your Cypri- pedium flowers erect. ; Cattleyas and Dendrobiums.—I would hope that by now the great bulk of your potting is done, but if you have not finished it, a few plants could be potted during March provided that new roots are breaking from the base of the last growth, but after the end of March forget all about potting until the following season. As the sun loses its strength so should you reduce your watering with these genera, and also slowly reduce the shading until in June you use no shade whatever and give the plants practically no water on their soil, but you should always take advantage of sunny days by sprink- ling the benches and the floor. As the new bulbs on your Dendrobiums de- velop their final two leaves they should be hung up near the glass and kept perfectly dry until the flower buds start to appear in the following Spring. Page 6 Notes for Novices AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1949 | T. H. JAMES, Hazelbrook, N.S.W. | @ March, and Autumn is here again. At the approach of that season I am always reminded of the stanza of the Rubaiyat of Omar Khay- yam concerning the general wish to change this sorry scheme of things entire and then remould it nearer to the heart’s desire. Could I have my way I would lengthen summer and shorten the winter. A futile wish and so we must now prepare our Orchids for the coming cold season. A reader recently wrote me a letter contain- ing some useful suggestions and friendly critic- ism. One of the subjects dealt with was the tendency to generalise in Review matter such as ‘ample ventilation,” ‘‘well drained,” ‘“‘moder- ate shading,” etc., which are of little practical help to novices. The criticism probably cover- ed articles by myself as I have a vague recollec- tion of having used those or similar terms. So I will endeavour to be more explicit in future. Autumn is a difficult period for buds are now forming that will flower in the coming Winter and Spring. The days are shortening, the sun is no longer directly overhead and the temperature is dropping. The main trouble will be watering. When to and when not to. Firstly, all overhead watering should be discontinued except on those occasional very hot days which can occur in March. Generally, watering should be done in the mornings only, but still on every fine morning during March and early April and not at all on cold or cloudy days. Floor and _ benches could be damped to maintain humidity but during May that will be needed only occa- sionally. If the house contains foliage plants and/or has an earth flgor, the regular watering ‘of those plants would provide sufficient humid- ity during May. During fine weather of course, the bush house will dry out more quickly than a glass house and will consequently require more watering. : With the best of intentions to be explicit I am afraid that is the best I can do. As with so many factors of Orchid growing watering is largely dependent on conditions. From my experience I am sure that some growers achieve success more by good luck than good manage- ment but, on general principles, it pays to give your plants individual attention as evidenced by the wonderful results achieved by some growers who act accordingly. Ventilation.—For a considerable part of the day keep all ventilators open but during May those on the western side could remain closed+ Even on cold nights allow some ventilation a5 natural heat cannot long be retained in a glass house after sundown and without a circulation of air the atmosphere would be cold and damp nstead of cold and dry. Cymbidiums.—The great majority of grow- ers around Sydney confine themselves to Cym- bidiums although I am glad to see that general collections are on the increase. | During March the flower spikes will be de veloping and in some cases may even be advanc- ed, Some growers believe—and I used to be one of them—that Cymbidiums should be kept on the dry side during February and March t0 encourage flowering. I now believe that iis wrong. The bulbs do not mature until long after the flower spikes appear and to withhold water during the growing period must, I shoul@ think, interfere with the development of thé bulb. You all know what happens in the gat- den when your plants get dry—stunted growth and poor flowers result. Cymbidiums are n? different and, in their natural habitat, there is not any dry spell when the new bulbs are but half developed. The flowers are there, in em- bryo, in the buds that are formed at the base of the maturing bulbs and will emerge the follow ing year from the half-matured new growths provided conditions be favourable. The maif factors are water, light and air. So keep the water going freely during the whole growing period. From April on evaporation will lesse# and watering should lessen correspondingly. Tw? or three times a week should suffice to keep thé compost just moist and no more. Liquid man- ure could be supplied about every ten days, if the case of early flowering varieties, up to thé time the buds begin to open. For the main an late crop no good purpose could be served by continuing this after about mid-April as th? development of the flower spikes slows dow# considerably during May, June and July and then begins to accelerate. Round about Sydney where the summer air is usually moisture lade# Cymbidiums do best in a very lightly shaded bush house but in dry districts I understand that good results can only be obtained under glass due, I presume, to the need for some humidity: There is not much moisture up here on thé mountains in the summer air so a few of mi? AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 have been placed in the glasshouse for testing purposes. _The value of light is now generally recog- nised and from April even the thin covering that many provide could be dispensed with to permit as much sunlight as possible reaching the plants. Without abundance of light very little flowering may be expected. Give your plants plenty of elbow room so that abundance of light and air can reach not the tips of the foliage only but the bulbs also. Light and air are very necessary for the full development of bulbs. It is only from well de- veloped bulbs that good flowers may be expected. Cattleyas.—The December issue of The Review had not appeared at the time of writ- ing these notes but I believe that the opposi- tion party has entered the arena again to insist on the necessity of winter heat for this genus. As I do not know the arguments that will be used I can only go my own way to further assure growers that this lovely genus can be successfully grown around Sydney and even further south without artificial heat in winter. I should certainly insist on a glass house al- though there are several isolated instances of successful bush house results. At the monthly meetings of the Orchid Society of New South Wales I believe that more Cattleyas are exhibited out of unheated houses than from heated houses. That does not imply that the majority of Cattleyas are grown in unheated houses. It is quite the contrary, but the reason why so few Cattleyas from heated houses are shown does not concern these notes. Many Cattleyas, either because they made a late start in growing in the Spring and so could not produce their blooms before the winter, or because it is their habit, to flower in the early spring, develop their flower sheaths in the aut- umn but the buds remain dormant until Spring. The sheaths often become dry and porous and so absorb moisture which rots the buds. To avoid loss of the buds in this way it would be better to carefully split the sheath or remove it altogether. If a collection be small the plants could be brought on to a glassed-in verandah or somewhere similar which would be dry. Overhead watering should be discontinued, except as mentioned, on an occasional very hot day. I find a useful method of watering during ‘the cooler months is to remove the nozzle of the hose so that a jet of water can be applied just where required only and without wetting the foliage. Wet foliage on cold days or nights 1s apt to cause spotting. During April root Page 7 action will slow down or.cease then give only sufficient water to keep the bulbs plump. If the weather be particularly cold or wet it would be better to allow a little shrivelling. One of the vital factors in growing Cattleyas in a cool house is, as I have stressed before, the com- post. If it contains any moisture retaining material such as moss, winter treatment will need great care as an apparently vigorous plant can quickly collapse during a cold winter if its roots are in a heavy, cold wet compost. I will deal with this point more fully in the next is- sue. Remember also, that shrivelling bulbs may be due to that heavy, wet compost and no to dryness in which case it would be better to risk immediate repotting to the almost certainty of losing the plant. Dendrobiums.—Judging by what I have seen in recent years very few seem to have solved the problem of profuse flowering. Per- sonally I think there is nothing more lovely than a well flowered plant of Dendrobium, par- ticularly Den. nobile, nobile hybrids and Den. Wardianum. They should flower from top of bulb to within a few inches of the base. On one occasion I saw a large plant of Den. nobile with over 70 blooms per bulb. I once had nearly 500 blooms on a plant but I suspect luck had quite a lot to do with that as I have never had anything like it since. I used to get plenty of flowers in Sydney, but here, in spite of the cold, the plants rarely ever take a rest but just keep on growing resulting in rather poor flowering. I have obtained the best results by growing them in the glass house during the Summer months, with plenty of humidity, and then in the aut- umn, transferring them to a place where they get protection from rain and cold winds but plenty of air and light. From April on keep them on the dry side even to a little shrivelling. When that occurs water well and then dry again. A structure completely open to the north and with a glass roof would, I think, be ideal. In the next issue I will deal with some of the best species for a novice to grow. Cypripediums.—This genius is now likely to cause considerable trouble as the flower buds are forming and much care is needed to pre- vent them rotting. There should be no over- head watering, but water should be given every day in March and April, and every other day or even less in May. Much will depend on the composts. Close composts will retain moisture for long periods during the cool months. Obser- vation only can determine requirements but they must not be allowed to become dry. Plants pot- Page 8 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Cypripediums WALLY FAHEY, Waverton, N.S.W. @ The growers of Cypripediums are getting quite a thrill out of their plants, as from now on they look forward to a feast of flowers from these interesting subjects. Some of the early varieties have flowered or are in flower, and the buds should be showing up in the others that are to flower later on. When the flower spike is about 6 inches high it is a good idea to put a neat thin stake in the pot and tie the flower stem to it. You will find later on that the flower will show itself to ted in pure tan bark last spring will require wat- ering every day but after twelve months the bark rots down somewhat and retains moisture longer so every second day should be sufficient in May. Use the hose without the nozzle as previously suggested or dip the pots. Some of the leaves may turn yellow during the autumn. This is natural; they have served their purpose so remove them. Thunias.—Keep the water going until the leaves turn brown. Then, round about Sydney, turn the pots on their sides under the shade of a tree. In cold districts they should be moved to a glass house or some other frost free place. Phaius.—With me Phaius grandifolius, in the absence of heat, died last winter, but P. Wallichii and P. Norman are growing luxurient- ly, the very cold winter making no impression on them beyond delaying their flowering which was good at Christmas. In Sydney I grew them well outside among the Cymbidiums but moved them into the glass house for the winter. Many of this genus were exhibited at the Sydney shows last September and attracted much atten- tion. They have broad, bright green leaves up to three feet long. The erect flower spikes, which may be four feet in length, carry many large attractive flowers. Ceologyne cristata.—This should be in every collection. It has short, round, bright green bulbs with two bright green leaves. It produces sprays of large snow white long last- ing flowers with a bright yellow lip in Spring. Whilst it requires a cool shady place in summer and copious watering in Autumn it should be given more light and air to encourage flower buds to develop. In Winter it should have a sheltered position. Compost will be dealt with in next issue. advantage if it has received this little attention. Cypripediums will soon begin to appreciate a little warmth, for we will soon have the cold weather with us again. In the Winter I like to keep the temperature not below 50 degrees. Water your plants in the morning, during the Winter months and as the cold weather ap- proaches you will need to be careful with over- head watering. If the water remains around the flower buds that are just showing up from be- tween the leaves there is a great chance of them damping off and thus losing the result of 12 months work. This damping off occurs because the air keeps moist longer in the colder months as there is very little drying out from the shorter period of daylight, the lower angle of the sun’s rays and its modified heat. When the water lodges in the flower sheath it remains there overlong and causes the rot. Keep an eye on the plants and see that no water is left around the flower sheath. A good idea is to hold the plants upside down after watering, when they are in bud, until the water runs out of the crown of the plant, more especially for any particularly good varieties which you might be waiting to flower for the first time, it is heartbreaking to see a bud damp off on a new plant when with a little extra care this could have been avoided. When the flowers commence to fade and die do not let them remain on the plant until they are dead but cut them off and instead of the plant exhausting its energy on a dying flower it will decide to make new roots and growths quickly. Remember these plants are relying on you to look after them and if you attend to their needs, I am sure they will show their ap- preciation. I usually repot my plants about August but if you do not use heat it might be advisable to wait until about September when the chill of the Winter is departing. In early July we will again have our Cypri- _pedium Show and judging by the interest taken in the last and the number of new growers, we look forward to a very nice display of blooms. See that your plants are looking their best for this display by cleaning the pots, washing the foliage and “topping off” the pots with some nice green moss (if you can get any) so that your plants will look 100% when exhibited on the Show bench. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 9 The Quiz Corner Conducted by Dr. 0. R. KIDD Question: Cattleyas? Answer: Cattleyas suffer from repotting to an extent greater than the terrestrials because of their clinging roots and many have been the devices to avoid injury to these roots, none of which are successful in my experience. It fol- lows that the best time to repot is to select a Stage in the plant’s growth when you will, im- mediately after repotting, develop a new root system. So the optimum time to repot is when the leading bulb is showing one or two blunt Toot eyes. This stage will occur at any period of the year because of the mixed parentage of modern hybrids, but usually it will be in spring or summer. Before the new lead gets its new roots the old roots will have commenced to 8row again and these feed the new lead through the old bulbs before it has roots of it’s own and the drain of food on the old bulbs by the grow- ing lead is constantly replenished so give the plant the benefit of this stage and wait until the newest lead shows it’s first root buds. This may be when the new lead is only an inch high or the new lead may grow into an adult leaved bulb and even flower before these new roots appear on it. But if you wait until this time you will ensure a new root system through the compost immediately after potting that will feed the last made bulb and give it the neces sary reserevs to begin next year’s growth in a robust manner and to maintain it’s speed and tate of growth so that it will have the size and Strength to flower without missing one or even two seasons, How to repot? When and how should I repot my Genien Clean the plant, cut off all at Cots, prune the live ones back. to two Renes and avoid above all snapping them at the origin from the rhizome — pruning them very shot is about the only way that offers any Prospect of success in this if they are to be Pered in fibre, or fibre and moss. Long roots Be a uaa are inevitably broken, crushed, ae nd dragged from their union with the 'zome and will die and afford a focus for rot and decay in the centre of the compost. ae plant taken apart and examined six weeks atter repotting would afford a revelation to many growers—as there often is not one of the Original roots alive and if they have not chosen the correct time to repot the plant must exist rootless (virtually a large backcut) until the newest lead establishes a new root system. If you use the conventional compost and method —use fibre only (black osmunda or todea) thor- oughly washed, and packed from the edges in towards the centre of the pot as hard and as tight as is possible. Place the plant at the edge of the pot and select a pot that will give three years’ growth but use only the best compost materials to stand the three-year potting inter- val. A plant of more than three fully leaved bulbs is a useless waste of the bulbs behind. The rhizome should be cut and a separate plant made if the eyes are good and ‘repotted in the same pot side by side with the front part of the plant, or else laid on moss until it leads and shows the first evidence of new roots when it should immediately be potted.. Repot with the rhizome on the top of solid compost, and stake the plant. Place green moss about the rhizome, loosely, and keep damp. Re- move the moss when the roots are through it and into the fibre. Keep the newly potted plant moist but not wet and at all times the drainage of the compost and the pot must be perfect and well aerated.. Cigarette smoke gent- ly blown through the drainage hole, should ooze through the top of the compost for some min- utes after the pot is set back in its place. So much for the conventional method. Here is the only method I have ever evolved that reasonably avoids the inevitable damage at re- potting. Take a large pot and knock the drain- age hole into quite a large hole. Cover with a large curved crock and if the pot is deep, as it usually is with a wide pot, invert a suitably sized pot over the hole, say a 4-inch or even 5- inch inverted pot in a 9-inch pot. Fill the space between the two pots with graded crocks, large on the bottom, small on the top. Fix in a stake that will support the plant by any of its bulbs after potting is complete. Mix a compost, of charcoal, sieved to give pieces from the size of a pea to a walnut (1 part), crocks, sieved to give the same size (1 part) tan bark fresh to six months old through a 4-inch sieve and use the residue in the sieve (2 parts) and if obtainable some chopped up oak leaves or leaves from any of the English trees (1 part). If this latter is not available use 3 parts tan bark instead of 2 parts. I use a plant of 2 or 3(often 2) fully leaved adult bulbs in a 9-inch pot. It should give room for 4 or § years’ growth and each 2 years the plant is cut to make new ‘plants, each of 2 bulbs, in the same pot without repotting. Page 10 Fill the pot to the top with the mixed com- post, place the plant om it (no roots are dam- aged after the pruning) and stake the plant, moss the top. In a few months the plant is firm, in six months you can lift the pot with the plant—and at any time after this the compost can be renewed, by inverting the pot, shaking it, hosing it out on its side with a strong hose jet, and refilling with the same compost, fresh and without any damage to the root system. No bulb on any individual plant in the pot should be more than 3 years old at any time. An older bulb would have no live active roots, “and exist at the expense of the rest of the plant as.a unit and consequently it should be removed and made to work by producing a new plant as a back cut. There is no space to discuss handling or other aspects of culture within the scope to the answer to the grower’s query but this method gives the following cultural advan- tages. ‘ 1. It permits the plant to grow as an epiphyte and not as a semi-terrestrial in a compost degenerated into mush after a year, at least in the central and deeper areas. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 2. It is a “natural compost” of tree bark, burnt wood and stone and leaf. 3. Its stage of wetness can be admirably con- trolled. It can be drowned with water in summer and its growing period and within a day can be almost dried. It can thus be kept damp in resting time or dry (for short periods) in winter. It need never be wet too long and will give you the cardinal requirements of a tropical orchid, moist and warm, mever cold and wet—and never dry and hot unless you are too lazy to water it. 4. It gives perfect aeration and ventilation. It allows replacement of compost, without repotting, and the consequent damage and interference to the plant. 6. It is reasonable, and departs from the con- ventional approach that is a legacy from traditional English culture in a climate that is quite different, and with different ‘“Shand- ling” from that obtaining in England and has proven a success, after critical experi- ment and analysis, under the conditions ob- taining in my own glasshouse with my own idea of “handling.” “ The Study of Orchidology im Australia Rev. H. M. R. RUPP, Northbridge, N.8S.W. @ At the Sydney meeting of the Australian and New Zealand Association for the Advance- ment of Science in August 1932, a masterly address on “Some Developments in Orchidology” was delivered by the President of the Botany Section, the late Dr. R. S. Rogers. This address was itself probably the most notable contribu- tion to the study of Orchidology ever made by an Australian; and in my obituary notice of Dr. Rogers in this Review I mentioned that it served as the thesis for which, in his 75th year, the degree of D.Sc. was conferred upon him by Adelaide University. It is a testimony to the importance attributed to the study of the Family Orchidaceae, that the term “Orchidology” should have won world- wide recognition in botanical circles. The Or- chid Society of New South Wales is not, I am fully aware, a botanical society. But although it is, in the main, an association of growers whose primary purpose is the culture of the more “spectacular” forms of Orchids, and who are banded together in order to advance this purpose by the friendly exchange of views and experiences, I should like to remind members that this does not cover the whole scope of the Society’s original intentions, It was expressly stated at the foundation of the Society in 1934 that one of its objects should be “the advance- ment of all that pertains to Orchids.” This very comprehensive statement surely includes the encouragement of the Study of Orchidology as a branch of scientific botany. I confess to some doubt whether such encouragement is in evidence to-day, though it did exist. for a few years. Speaking personally, I should like to see every new Australian Orchid described and _ pub- lished in the Australian Orchid Review; and further, I consider that it would be fitting (and it would certainly enhance the prestige of the Society) that every new contribution to the study of Australian Orchids should appear in this journal. But we cannot move in this dir- ection unless the Society is prepared to make reprints of such articles available to the authors. Those of us who are endeavouring to contribute something to the progress of Australian orchid- ology cannot dispense with reprints, for the articles, if of any importance, must be dis- tributed among botanical circles both in and beyond Australia. Not being millionaires, we AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 cannot afford to buy sufficient extra copies of the journal for this purpose; therefore we are compelled to accept the generous hospitality of other periodicals, such as those of the Linnean and Royal Societies, and several of the Naturalist Societies. All these allow reprints. Of course, in urging that the Orchid Society should do ikewise, I am not suggesting that an unlimited supply of reprints should be provided free of cost. Most of the Societies allow a fixed number, and make a charge for any required over that number. With a membership such as our Soci- ety enjoys, it should surely be possible to allow 30 reprints. They need not be printed on the same high quality paper as the journal itself; clear print is all that is necessary. , I believe that if this were done, the circula- tion of the Review would expand considerably before long. I should be pleased to discuss the matter with those most directly concerned. Since the publication of the late Dr. Rogers’ address alluded to above, many minor contri- butions to Australian orchidology have appear- ed in different publications in the various States. These have consisted chiefly of descriptions of Page II new orchid varieties or species or even genera, revisions and corrections of older publications found to be inadequate or faulty, and articles on pollination, distribution, etc. I need scarce- ly point out what an advantage it would be to have all such contributions published in the same journal. In the Victorian Naturalist for August, 1945, I published an Index of Austra- lian Orchids described or recorded from 1900 to 1945, giving references to the original de- scriptions or records. In order to do this, no fewer than twenty-four different journals and » publications had to be cited—some of them not even Australia. How much it would simplify matters for future students of Orchids yet to be discovered, if all such references could be made to the Awstralian Orchid Review! Editor: At a subsequent interview with the Rey. H. M. R. Rupp I was able to inform him that reprints were discontinued during the war in order to conserve paper stocks, and that the A.O.R. is now in a position to com- ply with his request. Rey. H. M. R. Rupp is recognised both here and overseas as an authority on Australian Orchids. We are indeed fortunate in having among our members one so skilled in Orchidology. Space will be gladly made available for the purposes indicated and readers can be assured that the matter will not be unduly technical. Cattleyas (Continued from September Issue) L. F. HAWLEY, Lindfield, N.8.W. @ The large majority of growers water their Plants much too frequently. Those who water their plants almost ‘every day during the grow- Mg season and several times during the week in fale abusing their plants. It needs aie ong t and no analysis to hang on to the oats a oe and water just because it was “‘a ey pie or days” since you previously watered maybe you have set days say twice a week or Carrying out this important work. The sec- oe Toutine is better than the first for at least © gfower is exercising some form of control ee St but both methods are totally in- ee Ask such growers why they water : ch day or several times a week or even every ee aa Ges a Sunday morning job ee y) and they cannot supply a logical ie fata i) in good condition and the bulbs A Plump it does not need water even though € compost be as dry as a bone. Watch the Plants in your collection closely. Their appear- ance—the loss of some of the shine from the faves or a very slight shrivelling of the bulbs will indicate that the plants need watering. The watering should then be generous. You do not water properly by saturating the pot for a minute or so and then repeating the process with the rest of the plants. The compost and the pot itself cannot be so easily wet in its then very dry condition. The plants during the summer should when ready to receive a water- ing be watered well in the evening and again the following morning. By adopting this method the plants receive a thorough watering and according to the size of the pot and atmos- pheric conditions inside the glass house should not need for a small pot say 5-inches further watering for about 10 days and two to three weeks for ten and twelve-inch pots. A vigor- ous specimen Brassolaelio Cattleya which pro- duced 42 flowers last year in my collection in = 50-inch pot is watered about three times during the whole summer and its requirements by its appearance and condition would be mis- interperated if water was to be applied more frequently. There is no good reason: or ex- cuse for watering a plump plant or even one somewhat in need of water which is commenc- ing to root from the leading bulb. More often than not the application of water to such a Continued on Page 14 Page 12 CYPRIPEDIUM GRAND MONARCH F.C.C. and Silver Medal, O.S. of N.S.W., 1945 Grown by W. Fahey, Waverton, N.S.W. Dendrobium Infundibulum @ The plant illustrated with 35 fine white butterfly-like flowers was grown for several years in the ordinary way in fibre and no fer- tiliser with little success. Following the advice of a friend I treated my Dendrobiums nobile and this plant with Shirleys No. 5 fertiliser— about a salt-spoon full to each 6-inch pot twice in the growing season. In each case a marked improvement in growth, especially the foliage, followed. The bulbs are thicker and the foliage hard and glossy and not so easily burnt by the sun. MURRAY MOODIE. @ Import of Orchids—The Hon. Secretary of the Orchid Society of N.S.W. has been ad- vised. officially that applications for the impor- tation of limited quantities of Orchids from U.K. would be favourably considered. Applications should be made to Department of Import Procurement, William Street, Sydney. Regular N.S.W. Contributors: Rev. H. M. R. Rupp—Australian Orchids, T. H. James—Notes for Novices. Dr. J. Vote—Answers Your Questions. Wally Fahey—Cypripediums. L. F. Hawley—Cattleyas. ®@Dendrobiums.—Are usually potted the same way as Cattleyas—firmly in fibre. Many other materials have their devotees and have proved useful. Potting should be done just as the — young roots begin to show. @ An All-Purpose Spray for Orchids as Used by Mr. A. A. Robertson, Hamilton, N.S.W. 6 lbs. soft soap, 10 ozs. black leaf forty, 10 ozs. household ammonia, 1 oz. ti-tree oil, 1 oz: turps pure, 1 gal. water. Keep in a container and use from stock as required mixed with water thin enough to us¢ as a spray. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 13 L. C, ALATA X L. C. WODEN ~ “Grown by T. E. Donnelly, Brisbane, Q. Photo by Dorothy Coleman. @ The Orchid Circle of Ceylon.—The release from military service of an Orchid celebrity of Ceylon, Dr. E. Soysa, will be welcomed by all who have enjoyed his writings on Orchid mat- ters, both within and outside Ceylon. As Editor of Orchidologia Zeylanica,? Dr. Soysa put Ceylon on the map of the Orchid world many years ago. During the war he won fresh literary laurels as Editor and chief author of a celebrated volume, Orchid Culture in Cey- lon, which has been acclaimed throughout the world as an outstanding reference work on trop- ical Orchid culture. This book, which found him a wide sale in Australia before it went out of print, was published in aid of the Ceylon Red Cross, which has benefited to the extent of about £900 Australian currency from its profits. Dr. Soysa, who served as a Major in a medical unit in Ceylon, and rose to the rank of ‘Tempor- ary Lieutenant-Colonel in charge of a medical division in an important Army hospital, worked at one time together with doctors of the Aus- tralian Army Medical Corps. During four years of Army service, he has made important literary contributions on problems such as asthma and malaria in the services, and his work has gained prominence in the British Medical Journal, and other medical publications. ANNUAL EXHIBITION @ The Orchid Society of N.S.W. will hold its Annual Exhibition this year on 11th, 12th, 13th SEPTEMBER BIGGER BETTER BRIGHTER THAN EVER. Page 14 plant will cause these new roots which have not yet reached the compost to brown off or at least the root action will be checked fo rseveral days. The correct procedure is to wait until the roots have gone well into the compost and if the plant by its appearance needs watering then let it have it and the roots will suffer no harm. Under Australian conditions it is necessary for the proper cultivation of Cattleyas under glass to provide a moist atmosphere during the whole year. Ponds in which gold fish may be kept under the benches is a good help in this direction but ponds by themselves are not suffi- cient. If you aim for a 60° F. minimum winter temperature (see previous article in September 1945 issue regarding winter temperature) damping down throughout the whole year to increase the moisture content of the air must be resorted to. Never permit the floor or the surface of the benches to dry out. Experience will prove that the glass house will tend to dry out and need damping down just as frequently in the winter as in the summer. In winter fire-heat is necessary to maintain the requisite 60° F. minimum temperature the heat having a drying effect. In summer the ventilators must be kept open and this has the same result. Houses should be damped down at least twice each day all of the year. During the hot summer period it is hardly possible to overdo this operation and if swamp-like condi- tions can be maintained on the floor and benches so much the better. It is assumed that the house is provided with a bottom bench, i.e., a bench containing a moisture holding material over which a staging is built to accommodate the plants. When damping down it is import- ant that the plants themselves and the pots are not wet in the process. This would upset the control of watering previously referred to and would quickly have an adverse effect. It will be found by close observation of your plants in a heated glass house that it is sometimes neces- sary, especially during a very cold period in winter to water the plants just as often as in the summer, the added heat in the pipes to maintain the 60° F. minimum causing the pots to dry out very quickly. Hot drying atmos- phere also has a dehydrating effect on the plants. Whilst Cattleyas at all times require a warm moist atmosphere close muggy or draughty con- ditions must be avoided. Such conditions may be overcome in the summer by the proper man- ipulation of the ventilators both bottom and top having regard for the direction of the wind. In the winter very little top air is necessary is necessary and much greater use should be made AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 of the bottom ventilators which during mild weather can be fully opened. At all times pro- vides as much air (ventilation) as the glass house can take subject to the proper indoor temperature range. The latter is referred to in the previous article in this series. (To be continued.) Selenipedium Sedenii @ The plain narrow green leaves average about 18 inches in length. The pretty pink flowers somewhat resemble cypripediums but a num. ber of flowers are carried on the slender spikes. Mr. W. Brierley, N.S.W., grows them and many other orchids in a glass house on rather novel lines. The plants grow in tan bark, and the pots stand in large shallow trays of water. ‘The roots, particularly those of Nobile and other dendrobiums often growing over the pot and extending a considerable distance in the water. The plants have thrived on this treatment which has the advantage of providing constant h:mid- ity and also checks wogs and crawling pests. Mr. Brierly says: The following is the method I used in growing Selenipedium Sedenii. The pot is half full of pieces of broken brick about one inch in diameter. The potting material is old tan bark with the fine stuff sieved out. The pots are kept in about one inch of water in shallow galvanised iron trays. The water is kept in the tray for nine months of the year, letting it go dry in the Winter months June, July and August. In the warmer months the plants receive a light watering overhead daily, and in the cold months they receive it once or twice a week, according to their needs. I have been growing this Orchid in this manner for the last 20 years although tan bark has been used for the last 3 years only. Previously I used the local Banksia root fibre. Tan bark is superior. It is an interesting point that when repotting most of the roots are found to be down among the broken brick. ®@ Dendrobiums.—Damp down plants and sur- roundings at least once a day during the warm Summer days, preferably in the evenings. @Victorian Meeting Dates.——The March meeting will be held at the Australian Church Hall, on Monday, the 18th, the April meeting on Monday, the 15th, and the May meeting on Monday, the 20th. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 15 Why the Variation in Hybrids? A. B. PORTER, Eastwood, N.S.W. > @ Every Orchid grower must, sooner or later pause to wonder how all the different shapes and colours arise in the hundreds of different Orchid hybrids. After all, the number of par- ent species of Cymbidiums, for example, is quite small and yet every year at our Orchid shows we see endless variety of colour, tall spikes, drooping spikes, spotted lips, horse-shoe lips, good Cymbidiums, bad Cymbidiums in count- less variations. How can this be? 18 question, applied not to Orchids in par- ar but to heredity in general, remained an unsolved problem for centuries in spite of num- crous theories which attempted to capture the elusive underlying laws. Then, in 1865 a paper NES published by an Austrian monk Gregor Mendel, giving the results of eight years’ pati- ee research into the effects of hybridisation in ett and although little notice was taken of His yeas at the time, this work and the laws a erived from it are the foundation stones on which the modern science of genetics is built. sea Mendel began his work he chose the Be ues ordinary green pea, mainly for (a) There existed a number of true breed- ing forms with distinct characters. (b) The hybrids are fertile. (c) They are normally self-fertilising and the risk of accidental hybridisation is small. en pte of types were chosen, the mem- seals pair differing clearly in some char- tall a €.g., round seeds and wrinkled seeds, see and short plants, yellow seeds and ete s a SO on. Crosses were effected by sada & the anthers from immature flowers wc tater, when the flowers were mature, fer- tilisi : sing them with pollen from the other mem- er of the pair. 5 os an example, Mendel crossed a yellow-seed- ate us mi a green-seeded type sixty times, aon oe cing made both ways and all the aaa uced were yellow. It must be re- oa ered that the seed belongs to the new alth ep so we have the surprising fact that Seas all these seeds had one green-seeded eet and half of them were produced by wee 4 ich normally produced green seeds, all ae ne es and in all the other pairs of varie- Hts aie a eS one of the differing characters to the Clusion of the other. ticul the same way, the hybrid repro-- What had happened to the character which had disappeared? Had it been lost entirely or was it still present but concealed? In the hope of finding this out, Mendel plant- ed his hybrid yellow seed and allowed the re- sulting plants to produce seed by self fertilisa- tion in the normal way. Over seven thousand seeds resulted, of which 75 per cent. were yel- low and 25 per cent. were green. Evidently the green-seed character had still been present in the hybrid yellow seed and had reappeared in the next generation, but why three times as many yellow as green? Next the yellow and green seeds were sown separately, each bed containing all the seed from one plant and now a new complication arise. All the green seeds bred true, producing only green seeds even when bred through ten generations, but of the plants grown from the yellow seeds, one third bred true, producing only yellows, and two thirds behaved in exactly the same manner as the first hybrid yellow seeds, producing yel- low and green in the ration 3 to 1. Let us put these results in the form of a diagram. YELLOW X GREEN f ALL YELLOW (self sata) Ta j j i Yellow Yellow Yellow Green ( { { J All Yellow 3 Yellow 3 Yellow All Green 1 Green 1 Green Clearly the original hybrid seed, although all yellow, contained the factors for yellow and green obtained from the two parents, but since the yellowness prevailed ,Mendel calls yellow the dominant in this case and green the reces- sive. These factors are now called genes and every living cell contains some thousands of them each controlling the heredity of one or more charac- teristics of the organism. In a pure breeding species they occur as pairs of identical genes, thus each cell in the pure-bred yellow-seeded pea has two genes for yellow-seededness, but the pollen grains and the embryo seeds (ovules) be- fore fertilisation have only oneveach, a pair be- ing formed again at fertilisation. When Mendel crossed the yellow with the green he started a civil war in each developing seed, for each seed contained one gene trying Page 16 to make the seed yellow and one trying to make it green. The yellow won in every case, so the yellow is called-dominant over the green. The plants grown from these hybrid seeds also have one of each kind of gene in each of their cells, but when they flower the pollen grains and ovules each contain only one gene controlling seed colour, so what will happen? The two genes which came together when the hybrid was _ formed will separate completely so that each pollen grain and each ovule contains either a gene for yellow seed or a gene for green seed, but never a portion of each. If an ovule formed by the hybrid carries the yellow seed gene it can be fertilised by a pollen grain carrying the same kind of gene to produce a pure breeding yellow seed, or by a pollen grain carrying the green-seed to form a hybrid. Similarly an ovule with a green-seed gene can produce a hybrid or a pure-breeding green de- pending on whether the pollen grain which fer- tilises it carries yellow or green. ‘These are the only four possible combinations that can result and they yield one pure-breeding yellow, two hybrid yellows and one pure-breeding green out of every four seeds produced. In Fig. 1 we saw that Mendel obtained exactly this result when he allowed his hybrid plants to seed. So far we have only been concerned with the case where the parents of a hybrid differed in a single characteristic, but often they may differ in several, so Mendel next chose parents which differed clearly in two different qualities. When he crossed a variety of pea having round yellow seed with another variety having green wrinkled seeds, al Ithe hybrid seeds were round and yel- low, round being dominant over wrinkled, and yellow dominant over green. These doubly hybrid seeds were grown and the plants allowed to seed, when four visible combinations occurred in the following proportions in more than five hundred seeds collected: 9 round and yellow. 3 round and green. 3. wrinkled and yellow. 1 wrinkled and green. per sixteen seeds collected. This result can readily be explained in terms of genes. We saw that each plant cell in a pure type contains two genes for each charac- teristic, so the parent producing round yellow seeds contains two genes for roundness and two for yellowness of seeds. This is represented by the symbcls RRYY, the capital letters being used for the dominants. It is customary to rep- resent a recessive by the same letter as the cor- | AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946— responding dominant but to use the small let- ters, thus the genes for green seeds and wrinkled seeds are denoted by rryy. . } TYPES OF POLLEN © RY Re bY ) Hy peomO ON UIIEE ru Fig. 2. The pollen grains and ovules each contait” only one of each pair of genes, so when the tw pure types are crossed, either pollen RY plus ovule ry gives hybrid RrYy of pollen ry plus ovule RY gives hybrid RrYy, the hybrids produced by the opposite crosses being identical, Since the hybrid contains one domin- ant gene for roundness and one dominant gené for yellowness the hybrid seeds are round an yellow. When the hybrid plant produces pollen and ovules, each will be of four types: IAG, A FA Tie each containing one gene for seed colour and one for seed shape, but with the dominants an recessives combined at random. In the subse- quent self-fertilisation to produce seed, each. type of pollen will combine with each type of ovule to give sixteen different groupings of the genes as shown in Fig. 2. Each symbol repre- sents the hybrid produced by fertilisation of the ovule type shown at left of the row by the pollen type shown at the head of the column. The shape of each symbol represents the shapé of the resulting seed, round or wrinkled, the shaded ones being green, while the clear ones are yellow. Thus the one in the heavy square has ‘obtained from the ovule one gene for wrinkl seed and one for yellow. From the pollen grain it has obtained one for round seed and oné AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 for green. Since round is dominant over wrinkl- ed and yellow is dominant over green, the seed 1s round and yellow. ‘The seed represented by the symbol in the bottom right-hand corner will be green and wrinkled because neither the ovule nor the pollen contained a gene for domin- ant yellow or round. eae you count the types in Fig. 2 you will round and_ yellow. round and green. wrinkled and yellow. 1 wrinkled and green ang this is the proportion obtained by Mendel in 1s experiments, From all these results, obtained not only with seed colour but with other pairs of characteris- tics, Mendel derived two laws which may be stated as follows:— Mendel’s First Law: The factors (genes) affecting development remain unchanged from generation to generation and do not become Contaminated when mixed in a hybrid. They €come sorted out from each other when game- Ww WO tes (reproductive cells) are formed. pee pe ceed Law: Each pair of cor- eae Ing factors behaves independently in ita ae In other words the manner in aa ge actors are grouped in the parents ea ect on the grouping in subsequent lybrid generations. & e fee a still holds good but the second ci ate modified as it has been found pecan genes are linked together and show wane y to remain in the same combinations A generation to generation. eee ae amount of research has been Oreiieeney ane Mendel’s day, even some on Saale a as been abundantly proved that Sie work touched the magic spring that i ed the fundamental secret of heredity. 5 RCRD now summarise our results with Or- mind. Saree Fee guns types are crossed to- Sas y rids are all the same in the first rethetes mace if the parnts differ in several lrg is is why you can recognise Pau- - 4, Lowi-Eburneum, Lowi-Grandiflorum, ‘ ee cand! tes first-cross Cymbidiums. Some fee egg does ‘occur but it is no greater the variation in the species themselves. © Story is very different when we go to faa napee generation by self-fertilising a hy- gees Sere two hybrids together. We saw aly ee at if the original parents differ in = respects, there are four visibly differ- types in the second generation hybrids. If the Ss Page I7 they differ in three characteristics there are eight, and if in ten characteristics no fewer than 1024 different combinations occur in the second hy- brid generation, even without introducing more than two species into the parentage of the hy- brid. Now some of our hybrids have several species in their parentage and have been bred through a small number of hybrid generations. A good example is Cym. Regulus (Céres x Regale) which is derived from five species and is a sixth generation hybrid. If we trace its ances- try back through six generations we find that its sixty-four great-great-great-grandparents (every creature, man, beast or plant has sixty- four of them!) consisted of 36 insigne, 16 l’An- sonii, 6 Lowianum, 5 Eburneum and 1 Tracy- anum. For any one characteristic, each of these species may have a different kind of gene, but a plant of Regulus cannot have more than two kinds of gene to control any particular charac- teristic. =: Thus for example if season of flowering is controlled by a single pair of genes, the flower- ing time of a particular plant of Regulus will not be an average of the flowering times of all the five species, allowing for the proportions in which they occur. It will depend on two genes only, one of which must come from In- signee or l’Ansonii (the parents of Ceres) while the other may come from Insigne, Lowianum, Eburneum or Tracyanum which are all in the parentage of Regale. F Since Tracyanum is the only early flowerer of the five species used, a plant of Regulus could only be early flowering if in each generation the parent which had descended from Tracyanum contained the early-flowering gene. If the breeder had at any stage chosen a parent which did not contain this gene then no early flowering plants would subsequently appear in the prog- eny and all the plants of Regulus would flower late. Very little work on the heredity of Orchids has been published, no doubt due to the length of time and the amount of patience that would be required to carry out any comprehensive breeding tests, but some experiments with Cat- tleyas and Cypripediums have produced results in line with Mendel’s laws. An interesting example concerns albino Cat- tleyas. In many kinds of flower the presence of colour is controlled by two pairs of genes and if either pair is replaced by a pair of genes lacking the power to generate colour an albino results. It has been found that this applies to Cattleyas. Two albino Cattleyas were found of Page 18 Some Orchid Questions ‘I recently received the September issue of the A.O.R. and was indeed pleased to read the article by Rev. H. M. R. Rupp. I had read the introduction to his book and felt at the time that the information should re- ceive wider distribution, for so many collectors have no definite idea regarding the factors which make an Orchid different from another flower. Along this same line I have had some ques- tions bothering me, and I would appreciate any information or reference which would assist in answering them. Firstly: What are the New and Old World Orchids, and what distinguishes them? Secondly: What are the large Tribes and Sub-tribes which are at times referred to? Thirdly: Where can one find a layman’s botanical description of the various genera? Fourthly: When we say that the Orchid is the most highly developed or organised plant, what is meant, and why is that more specialised than some other arrangement? Possibly some of this information is avail- able in literature, but so far I have not been fortunate enough to find such specific refer- ences. Another interesting feature would be a chart or genetic tree. Sincerely yours, R. S. DAVIS, Major A.C. Hq. FEASC. APO. 323, U.S. Army Manila P. Editor: The Rev. H. M. R. Rupps’ article in the September, 1945, issue of the A.O.R. which one lacked one type of gene and the sec- ond lacked the other. When crossed together each contributed one type of gene to the hy- brid which was of normal colour. This hybrid was self-fertilised and produced a mixture of normals and albinos in the next generation. Since most of our modern Orchid hybrids, whether Cymbidiums, Cattleyas, Cypripediums or other types are the result of crossing and recrossing through a number of generations, usually involving the introduction of hybrids from several different species, is it any wonder that as numerous genes which govern the flow- ering sort themselves out into all the possible combinations, a bewildering variety of colours, shapes and sizes is produced. And when you flower a complex hybrid for the first time only to find it looks just like a Lowianum, blame the genes. It will have had the misfortune to collect an undue proportion of genes of Lowianum origin from both parents. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1944 “What is an Orchid?”—how it differs from other flowers was welcomed by readers as filling a definite want. We have received a number of congratulat-_ ory messages in regards to it. This letter from Major Davis of the U.S.A. Army is one of them. He asks for more information along similar lines: The desire for this knowledge is wide spread. There must be others among our readers who could answer the Major’s questions or supply an article dealing with the subjects raised. We would gladly publish it. i Briefly, Rev. H. M. R. Rupp replies as fol- lows: “There will always be differences of opinion as to the proper classification of Orchids intd Tribes, Sub-tribes, etc. In my ‘Orchids of N.S.W.’ I followed in the main, Pfitzer, as his” } ' 5 ] | ] { is the system adopted by the National Her- barium.” (See page 2 second paragraph.) With regard to Major Davis’s questions: (1) No such division is recognised, at least if botanical circles, as ‘New and Old World Or- chids.” One might ask what is meant by ‘New and “Old”? America used to be considered the “New World”; but would he include Australia, a much later discovery, under “Old World’? Anyhow, only confusion can result from talking of Old and New World Orchids. Different genera reach their greatest development in dif- ferent parts of the world: why, nobody knows. In widely separated countries such, e.g., as Am erica and Australia, there are not many genera in common; but a few, such as Habenaria and Spiranthes, are practically cosmopolitan. (2) This is a question which I could not un- dertake to answer, for to do so would probably keep me busy for a week. Willis’s Dictionary of Flowering Plants and Ferns gives the main divisions; for details he would have to consult some standard work on classification. (3) So far as I know, the answer is ‘‘No- where.” (4) The high development of the Orchid is shown in the very facts I gave in my article: It has substituted for the complicated arrange- ment of the reproductive parts in other flowers the simple structure of the column. That this” has been evolved is shown by occasional lapses of Orchid flowers in the production of a style; or an additional anther, and the like, I do not know where a “chart of geneti¢ tree” could be found; in fact I must confess do not quite know what it means. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 19 The Queensland Orchid Society Annual Report for the Year Ended 3ist Dec., 1945 Ladies and Gentlemen, eens Committee has pleasure in presenting Re Twelfth Annual Report and Statement of ccounts for the year ended 31st December, 1945. Attendance of Committee: At the last An- a! General Meeting Messrs. L. F. Hayes, W. e Haenke and S. R. Brock were elected to ommittee, but as these gentlemen were unable a eee gies they were subsequently replaced y Messrs, T. C. White, J. Lewis and B Cribb, eu eo EMRE committee meetings were held during the year, attendance being as follows: peer C. A. Hilsden, 9; Hon. Secretary, T. C. arveyson, 12; Hon. Treasurer, E. J. Beard, 11; Com- mittee, C. O. Dunn 12, L. C. Home 10, J. Lewis 10, D. Law 10, J. Gordon Smi ‘ > Je th 12, A. Swensen 10, C. T. White 2, B. S. F. Cribb 3. 4 _ Mr. C. T. White was elected to Committee in April but was only able to attend two meet- ae before making a trip to the Solomon Is- ands for the Government. Membership: Sixteen (16) new members were enrolled during the year. Three (3) re- signations were received; three (3) members wets struck off the Register for non-payment of ac and ile @ ) members were lost by death. ur membership now totals 22 i Atay p 0, comprised Life Members (b iption) at y subscription) 2, by honour) 3; Subscribing Members (Metropolitan) 125, (Country) 61; re Honorary Members 7; Members on Military Duties mpt from dues) 14; Affiliated Societies 8. inance: The year began with a credit of eau and closed with a balance in Bank of ies Our assets increased from £195/12/45 DO an improvement for the year of ee 4, the highest the Society has ever had its twelve years’ existence. The generosity en on members in donating plants and other- % ae as enabled the Society to pay to Patriotic : ads £57/15/- and this sum brings up a grand otal of £296/4/10 distributed during the past SIX years. Your Committee was able to obtain a fair quantity of potting fibre from the North and this was distributed at cost amongst our mem- bers who had placed orders for it. mst escuptions for 1946 are now due and “ ould be paid to the Honorary ‘Treasurer. Oney Orders or cheques should be made pay- able to the Queensland Orchid Society and not to any individual. Will members kindly note this and if sending cheques on country banks to add exchange. Lectures: During the past year lectures or other items of interest have been given at the monthly meeting as follows: - R. J. H. Smith, Cinephoto Display of scenes in the Middle East. C. A. Hilsden, “Points on Potting and Culture” and “Culture of Cypripediums.” : J. Lewis, “The Selection of Orchids.” J. Gordon Smith, “Dendrobiums and “Potting Van- das.” C. O. Dunn, “A Review of ‘The Orchids of Ceylon.” and “Quiz Questions.” Dr. D. A. Herbert, “What to Lecture About.” T. C. Harveyson, “Potting Cattleyas.” H. J. Campbell, “A Chat About Phalaenopses.”” To those members who so kindly contributed the above we offer our best thanks and apprecia- tion. ~ Obituary: With deep regret we place on record the loss by death of Phil Levey who was killed in Germany whilst piloting a Halifax bomber. Also Jim Jeffries, of Rockhampton— a foundation member—passed away during the — year. . ‘ Monthly Displays: Despite transport short- age the show benches have been graced with quite a fair number of exhibits at every month- ly meeting during the year and what was lack- ing in quantity was more than adequately made up for in the quality of Orchids displayed. Donation of Plants: At each meeting one or more memers kindly contributed plants to be raffled in aid of various patriotic bodies, and your Committee expresses sincere thanks to the following members for their generous donations: Mr. Chas. Freeman, Mr. R. G. Ferguson, Mr. E. J. Beard, Mr. E. H. Cooper, Mr. A. Swensen, Mr. C. A. Hilsden, Mr. R. J. Langdon, Mr. W. N. Jackson, Miss K. Mcllrath, Mr. T. Harris, Mr. C. O. Dunn, Mr. W. McK. Robertson, Mr. S. H. Phillips, Mr. J. Lewis, Mr. L. C. Home, Mr. W. L. Haenke, Mr. J. Bearup, Mr. J Smolinski, Mr. J. Waltisbuhl, Mr. T. C. Harveyson, Mr. J. McGregor Wills, Mr. W. F. Adamson, Mr. J. Gordon Smith. Library: The collection of books held in the Brisbane Public Library has been augmented by a copy of “The Orchids of Ceylon” which is a very fine work, The Society’s property is in excellent condition and members are reminded that the volumes are available for study during library hours. The Australian Orchid Review: Three issues of this journal were published in 1945, and at the time of printing this report we are Page 20 still awaiting the December issue which has doubtless been held up owing to industrial troubles in Sydney. The Review is now the of-- ficial journal of The Victorian Orchid Club in addition to The Orchid Society of N.S.W., The Newcastle Orchid Circle and The Queensland Orchid Society. During the year Mr. L. C. Home was appoint- ed Associate Editor for Queensland, and it is requested that all M.S.S., photographs, and items of interest be sent to him at 27 Taylor Street, Buranda, Brisbane. Conclusion: During almost six years of war, now so happily over, our Orchid collections have all suffered sadly. Indeed we are fortun- ate that they have even survived for most of us have, of necessity, been unable to give the required time to repotting and care that they require. However, we all look forward to a better and brighter future, and now that import re- strictions have been relaxed, it is to be hoped that the time will soon come when plants from overseas will be made available. For and on behalf of the Committee, (Sgd.) C. A. HILSDEN, President. (Sgd.) T. C. HARVEYSON, Hon. Sec. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 @ We want pictures — more and more of them. Write the grower’s name and address on the back before sending them along. Also a short description of the flower, plant and cul- ture would be helpful. ® Orchids for Mr. McDade An American flew to London, travelled 60 miles by car to Ashford (Kent), and bought £9,375 worth of orchids. The buyer, Mr. Clint McDade, president of the Southland News Company, Chattanooga (Tennessee), said it would cost him another £12,500 to transport the orchids to America. The orchids belonged to the world-famous Armstrong and Brown collection, owned by Miss C. Armstrong, of Ashford. McDade bought 20,000 orchid plants priced from 2/6 to £65 each. McDade who already owns nearly £100,000 worth of orchids, said “Crating and transport- ing the new orchids to America will take two years. “Jt will be three years before some of the plants produce blooms, as they will be weak- ened by the journey and re-potting.”—Daily Telegraph, Sydney. A Talk on the Genus Cypripedium C. A. HILSDEN, Brisbane, @. @ As an appreciation of the paper delivered by Dr. Herbert to the Society on July 1t3h last, I will attempt to extend my previous talk by explaining in fuller detail a few aspects of the management of these beautiful plants. To understand more fully the treatment they require, one must be conversant with their cycle of growth. I will therefore deal with a plant, say of two growths, that after division, has been potted up and purchased for addition to our collection. Bearing in mind that the original specimen from which our new plant was severed, had recently flowered and was more or less dormant, our newly acquired plant only requires to be kept moderately damp until it becomes estab- lished in the fresh compost and settles down to the new surroundings. These operations for growers in Southern Queensland would be ap- proximately September, thus commencing the season of the cycle of growth. After a few weeks in a congenial atmosphere where the floors and benches are kept moist, as the summer season is commencing, one notices a small new growth appearing from the side pushing its head up above the compost, having grown from an eye on the stem of the old growth. We recognise that our plant has set- tled down, commenced to grow and is making new roots. As the season is now getting warmer, we give our plants more water and commence overhead spraying, watching that water is not allowed to remain in the heads of the young growths, ~ that at this stage, are just beginning to unfold their tiny leaves. During the following months of December, January, February, March, we keep our plants well shaded from the burning and drying rays of the sun, give them plenty of water and overhead spraying, and keep the atmosphere of the house as moist as possible. At the same time it is advisable to spray the plants monthly with an insecticide preventive against thrip, etc., as these insects thrive under warm conditions. Probably by the end of March our plant has rewarded us with two nice healthy, well leaved growths, superior in size and colour to the orig- inal growths. Having by now practically fin- ished their growth, our thoughts are centred as to whether we are to be rewarded by seeing a tiny sheath appear from the centre of the new ee ae ee AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 g8towth. As our plant has produced two fine healthy growths, it is only natural to expect that one or two flowers will appear. As soon as the tiny sheath appears, we must be very careful that after watering or spraying, no water is allowed to remain in the head of the growth, as there is a danger that the em- tyo flower bud will rot and we will lose our AER of many months’ labour and anticipa- ton. At this stage a weekly dip into a bucket 2 weak manure solution will enhance the size 3 the flower. As the flowers last for a period up to twelve weeks, we are now in the sows cs June-July. Of course there are spe- Beepe a . Soipsnahnins that flower at differ- 2 & jodsic the year, but the main principles of this talk apply to these species coming with- in the cycle of growth. ai ane mae its flowering period, our plant Hae ae a short rest. During this period, cee ate a July to September, we have con- ae ae teduced the watering and tefrained ie Fae overhead during the winter sea- cine t i general rule is to repot after flow- ae Me aye arrived at the time when our eat =i taken from the original specimen, 7 Jave now two fine healthy plants of at particular hybrid or specie. io aes (after flowering) if we aes Bens ‘ any of our plants, it is advis- aed ae sharp clean knifé and cut through aon EE close to a late flowered eae soe if the forward growth has one or Se a growths behind it, sever between deate oit Fa Some growers prefer to leave the SreTeneets € next season after severing be- Bette ne, As Cyps. do not like their roots mailings ie e Balai method js preferable to eee ane apart for division. Thus we Thee ae repotting period in October, aR SAN een ae potted up sep- cunien Ae nearly start in the fresh Seite € therefore have completed the er aha which summed up briefly Gee period—October to March— Main flowerin Winter, 1Vision and repottin ber—Early Spring. ie ea mentioned there are early and Varieties of feel Toe i See ue ‘e ateel AGyeshet sat AB: and Callosum’ of the Sansa g pees ut the cycle of treat- Seon olow on the lines outlined above, € time of repotting we find old growths & period—April to August— g—August to Septem- Page 21 that leave the plant and have practically no live roots, by repotting in moist sphagnum moss or medium sand and kept moist, they will invari- ably produce a new growth. A few words on the selection of a few de- sirable species and hybrids may be helpful to members who are contemplating adding to their collections. Unfortunately the world war has seriously affected the collection of species and practically entirely suspended the professional activities of hybridisers. It has been impossible to procure plants from overseas and all Aus- tralian stocks are either exhausted or are not on the market. But with the cessation of hos- tilities, supplies of new hybrids as well as spe- cies should be forthcoming in the near future. Of the species I would recommend that, when available, the following varieties are well worthy of culture and easy to grow: Insigne varieties—Harefield Hall, Sanderae and Royalty, Callosum, Charlesworthii, Cur- tesii, Lawrencianum, Hirsutissimum and Villo- sum. The position regarding hybrids offers a very wide choice, as there are hundreds of crosses already established and in the near future many new hybrids will be available from overseas, but of those existing a selection may be made - from: Harrisianum Superbum, Cappa Magna, Invin- cible, J. M. Black, Gertrude West, Maudiae Magnificum, Sultan, Lady Dillon, Chieftain Roxana, Atlantis, Leeanum, Lloyd George, F. M. Ogilvie and many others. In concluding this short paper, my observa- tions lead me to believe that many more of our orchid growers are taking a keener interest in this beautiful genus and I look forward with anticipation to seeing greater numbers on our show benches, which will add credit to the fine reputation of the Queensland Orchid Society. Agents for the ‘Australian Orchid Review” in Great Britain Messrs. B. F. Stevens & Brown Limited, New Ruskin House, 28-30 Little Russell Street, LONDON, W.C.1, are carrying stocks of current and back numbers of the' “Australian Orchid Review.” Readers in Great Britain should communicate with them regarding their supplies. Page 22 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 New Year’s Day in Bed R. BRUCK HOGG, Brunswick. Vie. @ This is written on New Year’s Day, a day on which, unfortunately, I cannot join in the frolics, being confined to my bed, and having little to entertain me, I have reverted to my favourite hobby — Orchids—and that friend which has always provided me with a mental diversion when most needed—my pencil. The New Year is with us, the world is again at peace, and from now on we cannot be accused of disloyalty in devoting a little of our men- tal energy and money in developing our hobby. The war has done a great amount of good to this country in developing industry and fitting it to carry an infinitely larger population. Strangely, it has also brought Orchids more before our people than ever before. What a strange para- dox that the most beautiful of all flowers should receive. most homage at a time when our country was fighting for its existence. Through- out Australia I can safely estimate that during the war the number of people growing Orchids has doubled, but I’d be much nearer the mark if I said quadrupled. Owing to my contribu- .tions to the Review I receive letters from all over Australia, mostly seeking advice, some seeking help, and the inevitable beggar trying to get something for nothing, but this corres- pondence does illustrate the growing interest in Orchids. This growth in Orchid culture increases the responsibilities of the various societies, and if it is to continue, the executive officers of those societes must place the cult first and them- selves last. Allowing members to openly barter for plants at society meetings is the surest way to start a society on the down grade. Our societies should subscribe to every journal of value throughout the world and purchase every book published, with the object of educating their members in Orchids, their value and their cultivation. There should be no secrets, and like the medical profession, through its journal, we should use the Australian Orchid Review to place before readers all possible information on Orchids and their cultivation. _ The little that I know has been gleaned by an inquistive mind and tongue, but it must also be a tactful one. I have seen a large number of collections in Melbourne and Sydney, and do‘ not hesitate to suggest that the fingers of one hand would count the really well-grown collections in Melbourne, and perhaps of two hands in Sydney. Certainly, many other growers exhibit out- standing plants, but does the whole of their | collection show the same degree of health and vigor? I mention the foregoing to advise my readers if they adopt the “inquisitive mind and tongue” to cultivate those who over the years have been outstandingly successful, not n win- ning exhibitions at a show, but at all times pos- sessing a collection of varying genera which impressed by its health and vigor. I understand that before this goes to press the Department of Trade and Customs is going to review all prohibited imports, including Or- chids, and have reason to believe that Orchids will be allowed to be imported from sterling countries. If this is the case, I would warn my readers not to join in a headlong rush to get early supplies. Be patient, and step in when the rush is over and you will probably buy better Orchids at a much lower price. If you aspire a collection in which quality is the chief objective, I would suggest buying divisions of high-priced flowered plants rather than unflowered seedlings, for even with the famous Westonbirt you will cull four out of five seedlings. Multiply the landed cost of those unflowered seedlings by five and add a few pounds for the labour of caring for them until they flower, and you will find that you have a sufficient sum to buy a really good named variety of flowering size. There are plenty of ~ the cull variety in Australia now, and what we want is plants of the best F.C.C. and A.M. var- ieties flowered in England. Possession of one such plant should enable you to have half a dozen similar ones in a couple of years by local exchange. To-day there is a mild boom in Orchids. That boom is the greatest danger to the cult, and I appeal to all to repress it rather than extend it. The bubble of every boom bursts as a result of the exuberance of those who create and sus- tain it. Orchids can maintain prices approxi- mating those of to-day unless competition sends prices far higher. This boom is much more pronounced in Sydney than in Melbourne, and considerable harm to the cult will result if the “powers that be” do not keep firm control and advise against inflated prices. The coming season looks like being an excel- lent one in Melbourne. Many Cymbidium Hy- brids are already showing flower spikes and the Slippers and Cattleyas are much more forward AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 23 than last year. This augers well for our Show next September for which we have taken the large Melbourne Town Hall. Large numbers of plants acquired during the recent years of boom will flower, and those who have indulged will be able to sedately observe their purchases and appraise them in comparison to the head- long rush of recent years when anything with the name of Westonbirt in its pedigree brought arge prices or a good exchange. So much for wanderings of a bored mind on New Year’s Day. ®Propagation—During April or May you will do no harm by severing Cymbidium and Cypri- pedium plants at the point where you propose to divide them next Spring. This will encourage the new growth at the point of severance to amnear at the same time as the new growth from the forward lead and will keep your plant bal- anced, and in the event of division it will give you a chance of flowering the back section of the division the following year. However, do not under any Circumstances sever Cattleyas at this time. Both Cattleyas and Dendrobiums should be severed in August or September when the eyes which are to make the new growth start to swell. “4 CYPRIPEDIUM WENDOVER Var. “V. E. Day.” A.M. 1945. O.S. of N.S.W. {nan DOTTIE inn ‘eetessvucencuvantarcnavenencscanaascceescenaceacgnnavoanaasseeaaennnneesseeaanen gata sentence aaegagneeceagecaeeecuinac a vaseccaeeeceaateecaeaniaiceenieaearitearieeenniatnecianan ninco ararenicenc nani Announcing the Early Publication of A Cultural Table of Orechidaceous Plants by J. MURRAY COX GMT As only a limited number of copies will be printed, subscribers should book their orders now. suena eran renrirennsreanareserirenient To Published by THE SHEPHERD PRESS YURONG STREET, SYDNEY N.S.W., AUSTRALIA OT See Tt m CTT HUNAN CO TTT Page 24 SHOWY INDIAN ORCHIDS Lowest Retail and Wholesale Lists on Orchids and Bulbs on request. POST FREE OFFERS 25 Different Showy Orchids 0... 50/- 50 Cae A co vgn 100/- 12 Selected Dendrobiums oi. 30/- 12 7 Cymbidiums ~ 40/- Cypripedium Fairieanum, per 100 ..... £13/10/- Vanda Teres, per 100 veers £5/10/- Lilium Wallichianum, per 100... £5/10/- GLADIOLUS—best Australian. Giant Flowering Mixed, first-sized corms, per 100, £2; per 1000, £15. Cormlpts, £5 per 10,000. Picardy, per 1000 £20. Postage extra. THE GARDEN SERVICE 8} Mile, KALIMPONG, Dist.: DARJEELING (INDIA) BOOKS ORCHID CULTURE IN CEYLON. Edited by Soysa, 1943, coloured plates, etc. This delightful book is of interest to Orchid Growers, dealing with hybridization, diseases and pests, fragrance, etc. Orchids dealt with can be grown in Victoria and New South Wales, £2/15/- VICTORIAN ORCHIDS (Dickens), 2/6, post, 2d. THE ORCHIDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES (Rupp), 9/-, post 4d., soft cover edition, 6/-. AN INTRO- DUCTION TO THE STUDY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ORCHIDS (Rogers), 1/6, post, 3d. Stocks of second-hand works on Orchids, Natural History, Early Aust., Art, Collecting, etc. Catalogue on application. Also available, special list of new Gardening Books N. H. SEWARD PTY. LTD. 457¢ BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE, C.1. Notice to Advertisers All enquiries as to Advertising space should be addressed to the publishers: AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW SHEPHERD & NEWMAN PTY. LTD. YURONG STREET, SYDNEY AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Indian Orchids Our best selection, showy flowering Indian Orchids, having 5 or 6 shoots, £12/10/-. Cut flower purposes, large flowering, our best selection, £19. Lillium, 6 varieties, £8. Amaryllis, giant, 6 varieties, £9. Lilies, 4 var- ieties, £6. Curcuma, pink, £4. Caladiums, 25 varieties, £6 per hundred. Fern spores, 25 named varieties, 2/- per packet. Alpine seeds, including Rhododendrons, 25 named varieties, best collection, 5/- per ounce, postage paid. Bulbs and Orchids, orders for less than 100 plants and Bulbs, and Seeds less than ounce will be accepted. Cash please. Pure Musk Dust, £14 per oz. Postage paid by Air Mail. R. K. KASAJU & SONS Nurserymen and Collector P.O. PAKYONG, SIKKIM, INDIA. WANTED CYMBIDIUM BACK BULBS in variety, with strong dormant eyes, or made-up leaved bulbs—I0 or 100. List names and color with price. ALSO BOOKS ON ORCHIDS Give Author, Title, Date, Condition, Price GREENOAKS 2545W. 5th St., Los Angeles 5, Calif. BOOKS ON ORCHIDS Cacti and other Succulent plants, new and used. Also other Botanical books. Send for catalog. Payments handled locally. “"BOOK-MARK" 825 Elyria Drive, Los Angeles, 31, Calif., U.S.A. a ee ee ee ee ee ee ee i AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 The Orchid Society of N.S.W. Meets every month on the last Thursday in Royal Empire Society Hall, 3rd Floor, 17 Bligh Street, Sydney, at 8 p.m. Visitors welcomed. Patron: President: Hon. Secretary: His Honour E. A. HAMILTON T. H. JAMES JUDGE H. F. MARKELL TébtlerculeseSte Valley Road “Kooyong,” Hastings Road HAZELBROOK, N.S.W. WARRAVWEE, N.S.W. CHATSWOOD, N.S.W. Phone, Lawson 71 Hon. Treasurer: Hon. Asst. Treasurer: Hon. Editor: JOHN BISSET W. FAHEY W. WORTH 48 Wareemba Street, 1 Woolcott Street 4 Ward Street ABBOTSFORD, N.S.W. WAVERTON, N.S.W. WILLOUGHBY, N.S.W. Phone WA1124 *Phone XB3795 Phone: JA1533 The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow: THURSDAY, MARCH 28th : THURSDAY, APRIL 25th THURSDAY, MAY 30th The Queensland Orchid Society Patron: : His Excellency, Col. the Rt. HON. SIR LESLIE ORME WILSON, P.C., G.C.S.I., G.C.M.G., G.C.LE,, D.S.O, President: Hon. Secretary: Hon. Treasurer: S A. aa a T. C. HARVEYSON E. J. BEARD CUANTTE TORENT G.P.O. Box 2002 X 381 Queen St. ° BRISBANE BRISBANE BRISBANE The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow:— FRIDAY, MARCH 8th FRIDAY, APRIL 12th FRIDAY, MAY 10th Meeting Place: Miniature Rifle Range Building, Boundary Street, Brisbane. Meetings held on the Second Friday of each month. Visitors are welcome. The Victorian Orehid Club Meets on the third Monday in each month (January excepted), in the Aus- tralian Church Hall, 15 Russell St., Melbourne, at 8 p.m. Prospective _members welcome. The dates of the next meetings of the Club are as follow: MONDAY, MARCH 18th MONDAY, APRIL 15th MONDAY, MAY 20th President: Vice-President: Hon. Secretary: R. VICK B. R. HODGINS _ °G, E. FLOYD 32 Northcote Avee., 547 Moreland Road, 25 Grandview Road CANTERBURY, E,7, ESSENDON, W.5. BRIGHTON, 5.5. Phone WF2365 *Phone FUS270 *Phone, X4996 Hon. Treasurer: A. C. DREDGE, 169 Cochrane Street, Elsternwick, S.4. Wholly set up, printed and published in Australia by Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney Worth, Hon. Editor. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 The Significance of Awarded and Named Varieties of Orchids The mere fact that someone has put a second name on an Orchid may or may not mean anything. It all depends on when the variety was named, why it was named and who named it. Awarded varieties may be valuable or worthless, depending on the date of the award and the reputation of the organization responsible for making the award. Without making any representations whatsoever as to their value, we are listing below some famous named and awarded varieties in the Rivermont collection. Additional lists will appear in forthcoming issues. At present we have no duplicates of these plants for sale. We have many plants at Rivermont that have not been exhibited, and have not been given a second name which excel all or nearly all of the awarded and named varieties listed. CATTLEYAS AND ALLIED GENERA C. Nina, var. Rivermont; C. Fulvescens, Westonbirt var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Innocence, var. Snowdrift; C. Trianae, var. Grand Monarch; C. Snowmaiden, var. Everest; C. Loddigesii alba, Stanley's var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Dinah, A.M., R.H.S.; C. Solario, var. Empress; C. Edithae, var. White Empress, F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Lady Veitch, var. Rivermont; C. Lorna, var. magnifica; Bc. Mrs. R. Paterson, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Ble. Capella, var. aurensis; Blc. Daffora, var. Ceres; Ble. Aprica, var. Moonbeam; Lc. Wiloden, var. perfecta; Le. St. Gothard, A.M.; Ble. Xanthea, var. Aureo-grandis; Lc. Sunburn, var. Soleil d'Or; Blc. Nigeria, A.M., R.H.S.; Le. Babylon, var. Crimson Flame; Lc. Guinevere, var. grandiflora; Lc. Orange Beauty, var. Apollo; Le. Snowdrift, var. Empress, A.M., R.H.S.; Blc. Beatrice, var. Regina; Blc. Orange Glory, var. Rosalind; Slc. Cleopatra, A.M., R.H.S. CYMBIDIUMS Cym. Flamingo, var. nobilior, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Carmen, var. Rose Queen; Cym. Jungfrau, var. Enchantress; Cym. Alexanderi, var. album, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Delvsia, var. Red. Queen; Cym. Goosander, var. exquisitum, A.M., M.O.S.; Cym. Gottianum, Westonbirt, var., A.M., R.H.S.; Cym. Jason, var. Golden Beauty. CYPRIPEDIUMS ; Cyp. Golden Gleam, var. Orebus; Cyp. Balaclava, var. Grand Vizier; Cyp. Charmaine, Weston- birt var., A.M., R.H.S.; Cyp. Leonora, var. Amaranth, A.M., R.H.S.; Cyp. Peridot, var. Eau d'Or; Cyp. Eventide, var. Marvel. This year we shall advertise the finest selection of seedlings and adult plants that we have yet been able to offer our customers. Inquiries should reach us any time after March I. We understand that regulations will not permit us to ship plants to Australia at this time. This advertisement, which is a duplicate of advertisements appearing in the American Orchid Society Bulletin and other Orchid publications, is reproduced here just to remind our Australian Orchid growing friends that we are still doing business and growing seedlings. CLINT McDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE, U.S.A. CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE* JOHN LINES *Now serving in the Armed Forces nia YY W N W \ WWW Ys Wy, “yy, . VE. ie tdi 1 “errryppyypy ppt ceca iy, duit UY yy Uppy JUNE ISSUE, 1946 Published Quarterly Vol. Il. No. 2 THE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE ORCHID SOCIETY Hay SOUTH WALES (INCORPORATING THE NEWCASTLE CIRCLE), THE QUEENSLAND ORCHID SOCIETY AND THE VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB, Page ii SYDNEY, N.S.W. - AUSTRALIAN, ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 ORCHIDS Quantity - Quality - Variety CC. i. DEANE Girrahween Nurseries 190 WOLLONGONG RD... ARNCLIFFE TEL. LX 1106 In Advertising i eeagl the element of time is one to be reckoned with—as it has important underlying effects, particularly on the volume of future business. Efficient process engraving is an effective ally when up against "'time.'' Turning to the fine art studios at 89 William Street, you are sure of RESULTS not EXCUSES in the hour of urgency. A free enterprise, not process engraving as a sideline, a progressive organisation noted for the consistent quality of its work—maintained by..... PHOTO-ENGRAVING ART COMPANY PROPRIETARY LIMITED 8 9 WV ie lt Lees Us LE Ame M S oy Boi I oy S 7 & WW tf VW On Time and in Step with Advertising a ne ee NU ne Sn eee —— Special Announcement to Orchid Enthusiasts eke much pleasure in announcing the publication of THE CHARM OF GROWING ORCHIDS, y PLA. Gilbert. This is the first book on exotic orchids to be published in Australia, and com- prises 232 pages of general information, cultural notes, etc., and photographs. Price: 21/-. Postage 1/- extra. Sole Publisher and Distributor: : St., Abbotsford —WA 1124 JOHN BISSET Nursery: 48 Wareemba St., A Mount ai pis Private: 8 Brisbane Avenue, (Also at City Markets every Friday) USTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW ere JUNE, 1946 No. 2 The author of each article is responsible for the facts and opinions expressed therein. CONTENTS * Page Adelaide AS. Dee tht He. rie AE ciequsaoio ie. 27 ' Amateur Orchid Cultivation in U.S.A, 9 see ceee ce vate te 44 AnmA ppeal ain ae ioe Caml nae esate ae cee eee RE 49 GattleyastesMoremLleaCatornmen ake ee mesh iy eet eens me Ce gis ame 48 Gyn bids ria Syd Te yee aetna ore eg) serie 9 edore 34 Cymbidiums, Why do They not Flower Freely? 9 ut Maa ue 45 CY pripediims me imeeare enh eee sede Toot lee ee Rly ca cise eke im ile totam eae ah 30 Dipodium punctatum SU Te TE ete ee anes 32 Hybridization, The Principles of, 9 © wm. me vm 42 Notesmtorm Novices gil mm anngiae nt Be va, ase ee ree as 36 Quiz COrnetaesi ett: cement abar ts mots. Rags mt ee BE coe 28 Victorian Cultural Notes 999 ne eee ee Kite oo nets 29 WWardian§ Gase) leselt Giese de eh ayy th a = hes, ee ‘ae 47 Wihatetom Lecture vA boutay nt eye mews tnt tad otal cml eee ee oer ty i Peo 31 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS Calanthe, yeratrifolia 9 ww ek Se ate 37 Cattleya, amethystoglossa 99 on ns es fhe ee wet Gas 39 Crgemtogstinny, agit ae bal de Oa ete ak OO) a tenis. 4 1 Dipodium; punctatum ee tes eenitints on batt ei) 33 EpidendrumypGiliare” @ OOM GRAV Ort. Wah et 31 Odontoglossuriseerandes: ae miminnet: lnm) hs ley aeons 38 Subscrj ae Rates: Australia and New Zealand, 6/- per annum; Overseas, 6/- sterling per - Post free. Payable to Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney. Leen Oe Sk 44 44 CARE YOUR orcHIDS with PESTOXOL " (LIQUID) eeu th specially suited for the treatment of Orchids and has been proven by actual "PEST I sh-house and green-house. ae destroys Scale, Thrips, Red Spider, Green and Black Fly, Mealy Bug, Caterpillar, atts ee and is perfectly safe in use not only on Orchids, but on Ferns and tender green- s. 10o0z. Bottles ......... 2/6 each. 4 gallon Jars ........ 16/6 each All Orchid Dealers and Seedsmen F. H. FAULDING & CO. LTD. seorsin' pant vont and Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Brisbane, and London (Eng.) Page 26 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 — Another Forward Step In July, 1945, we purchased the entire stock of the world-famous Armstrong & Brown Orchid collection of Tunbridge Wells, England, known as Orchidhurst. Our Mr. Clint McDade has just returned from England where he inspected the - stock and made final arrangements to bring the plants to the States. We are delighted to find that pieces of most of the finest stud plants and exhibition varieties still remain in the collection. During the past year we have gone to great lengths to locate and buy from the present owners, pieces of a few choice Orchids formerly in the collection, but no longer to be found at Tunbridge Wells. It is a source of great pride to us to be able to carry on with this magnificent collection practically intact. Fine things are to be found in all sections, including Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, Odontoglossums and Cypripediums. The Cymbidium section is probably the most outstanding. Exceptionally good strains of Cymbidium Dorchester, Mopsa, Bodmin Moore, and Clara Armstrong were originated at Orchidhurst. When all of these choice varieties have been _ added to our Cymbidium section here at Rivermont, we sincerely believe that : this section will then be second to no other commercial Cymbidium collection in the world. At Rivermont we have always put special emphasis on good Cattleyas. We are glad to add a few fine things from Orchidhurst to keep our Cattleya sec- tion well up among the front rank growers of these glorious flowers. lf one may judge from the Cypripediums Mr. McDade found in bloom at Orchidhurst, these will add greatly to our Cypripeddium line. Our Cypri- pedium collection is small at present, but we can say that most of the plants have been selected as one would select precious jewels. It may be impossible for us to get the Orchidhurst plants over in time to offer any of them for sale this year. Even so, we shall offer a number of seedlings _| and adult plants from our stock here at Rivermont in order to make room for the plants coming from Orchidhurst. For the most part, offerings will be made of Cattleyas and allied genera. Inquiries invited now. You are invited to become a member of the American Orchid Society—mem- bership dues $5.00 for the year inclusive twelve issue of the Bulletin, which is an excellent magazine devoted to Orchids. Also, we suggest you join the American Horticultural Society—membership $3.00 a year. We shall be glad to recommend you for membership in both these societies. CLINT McDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE, U.S.A. CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE* JOHN LINES *Now serving in the Armed Forces AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 ‘Page 27 Adelaide . ee the Editor of the A.O.R. requested me re fe readers of this journal something about elaide, and how Orchids are grown here, I readily agreed. : eeseiaids situated on the Torrens has been ae ed as “The Garden City” and we believe this aptly “described our city. © the South, we have the Rane Mount. Lofty ane see these are situated about five miles Gelaea es Be proper. To the west we have the tein icant, and our seaside resorts with ae eee y beaches only 7 miles from the aa als to the North we have the vast Newnes agricultural lands extending to the mete Lcancamite of this Continent, from nti € get our hot summer winds and €times dust storms. ape aueat high humidity the Eastern States eae etiing the summer months the cli- ace i rok is dry. This is due to the fact ‘ie ere the sub-tropical atmospheric condi- oa ch ae. to N.S.W. and Queensland, we mecca ry little rain during the summer ee We ut our share is apportioned to us dur- er and Spring. say pie esidents on hot Summer days will . As. se! It’s hot!” But the unpleasant heat oe seer sO soon as a cool change from the een oe ne: Generally our climate here is coer racing, conducive to gardening pa hee Scneaallyp hence practically every a is er re or small, has its flowers in hanes aaeor ing to the house holders’ pre- cee Me o think that Adelaide’s displays aire € outstanding, and dahlias, bulbous » Shrubs, trees, etc., do particularly well i sent is also blessed with wide clean streets by ii for an area of one mile wide Hace ands which are used as playing fields ies ees of sports. These parks act as wes r the city and contribute to the health ity dwellers and workers. A dela Se fertestrial orchids are’ found in the sehr Rta ‘such as’ Green Hoods, etc., the MiStentai Insignificant, and of interest from acer faaene on only. Epiphytal Orchids some quite Aen this State. However, we have Sehr ae and extensive collections enthusiasts ‘al ids and hybrids among our ihe cee the numbers are increasing. SEINE Gan Sea these enthusiasts I would in- (our Club ate Premier—Hon. Tom Playford patron), and his mother, who both have their homes at Norton’s Summit in the hills, about twenty minutes’ run by car from the city, and both of these enthusiasts are obtaining marked success in growing Cymbid- iums. | Leaving the city in the evening of a hot summer day to visit the homes of these enthu- siasts one realises so soon as one reaches the hills why they can beat the suburban growers— the air has that soft coolness that caresses the face and lifts tired nerves. No wonder Cymbid- iums grow and bloom to delight the patient enthusiast residing in our hills. Our one disability in growing Orchids is water. In normal seasons we have abundance of water from storage basins mostly situated in the hills, but it is saline, hence hard and quite unsuited for Orchids which require slightly acid or neutral water, so we resort to collection of rain water. Visitors from overseas remark and wonder why practically every house and cottage has at least one rain water tank, but this storage is not for watering precious Orchids—it is treasured for the laundry purposes. Our reservoir water however, is very satisfac- tory for damping down and for outside gardens and vegetable growing. Until quite recently, we considered all our potting compostes must be imported from New South Wales and Queensland, but now we real- ize the value of spent tan bark and have learned how to use it. We can relax and offer thanks to our Creator for providing us with abundant Wattle trees that grow throughout our hills districts. Most of the growers of Cymbidiums and Cyp- ripediums are now adopting the tan bark com- postes with marked success and improvement in growth of these genera. Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums and some of the other genera are grown under brush house con- ditions throughout the Summer and Autumn, but must be placed under glass during Winter, both because of the cold and wet conditions with heavy frosts. The Adelaide climatic conditions cover temperatures ranging from as high as 110 to 115° F. in the shade in Summer, down to 30 to 32° F. in mid-Winter. Several years ago we had an exceptionally hot spell and the mercury soared to 118° F. in the shade, during the morning heat someone cracked an egg on a city pavement where it fried. All our summers are not so hot and the heat comes Page 28 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 PERSONNEL Hon. Editor: W. WORTH 4 Ward St. Willoughby, N.S.W. Phone: JA 1533 — Victoria: R. BRUCE HOGG Dawson St. Brunswick N.10 James Miller & Co. Pty. Ltd. ASSOCIATES: Queensland: South Australia: L. C. HOME R. J. LANGDON 26 Taylor St. 8 Regent Street Buranda S.2 Millswood Brisbane South Australia Orchid Societies in the States not represented above are invited to nominate a representative. The Quiz Corner Conducted by Dr. O. R. KIDD [Readers are invited to send along their ques- tions on anything pertaining to Orchids and their culture. Answers given are applicable to Sydney, N.S.W.—Eprror. ] Question.—How can I grow and flower Zygopetalum Mackayii and Odontoglossum Grande? Answer.—Zygopetalum Mackayii: Starting from a back bulb, treat it exactly as you would a cymbidium back bulb for it will strike freely NNN in waves of a few days duration to be broken by cool Westerlies. In July, 1939, a few enthusiasts met and de- cided to form an Orchid Society. The Orchid Club of South Australia was eventually created, but before we could become firmly established the war came upon us, and those who did not join the Armed Forces, linked up: with the civil defence services, etc., and even despite the many disabilities and long hours of work our mem- bers that remained continued to devote what- ever time they could spare in tending their plants. Club meetings eventually were reduced to bi-monthly meetings held in the office of our club secretary. The care and inspection of our plants at night during the extreme “black-out” was difficult and unsatisfactory, slugs and other pests then held sway, but we survived these troublous times, and when artificial lighting was restored those pests got their deserts. We now have our club members back with us, and are holding regular monthly meetings when information relating to every Orchid genera is gladly given to help our less experi- enced growers, and those who wish to grow a few Orchid plants. On behalf of my Orchid Club members I extend a hearty welcome to any Interstate Orchid enthusiasts, who may be visiting Adelaide, to attend our meetings. FRANK H. De ROSE, President, The Orchid Club of South Australia. under the same conditions, or more freely still if given a little heat, say in the glass house of in a hot box. The latter is a box filled with compost which is heated to a constant tempera- ture, (thermostacially controlled) by an electri¢ wire the resistance of which is such that the wire becomes warm and heats the soil or com- post. The bulb may easily grow from the very apex and if this be so, immediately roots are noticed, half bury it on its side in a cymbidium compost of old tan bark, new tan bark, leaf mould, each one part, and coarse, sand and fine charcoal each one part. Use a S-inch pot well crocked. Keep moist but not wet and as soon as the roots are into the compost a few inches _ remove it to a cool but airy place in the bush house, When well established place amongst your cymbidiums. Keep constantly damp in Summef and it will make a small bulb by Easter. In August, repot, using a larger pot say 7 inches using the same compost plus one part of old cow manure and grow with cymbidiums and give the same treatment except that it must be grown in an airy spot for the new shoots hold the water very easily and rots out the centre: The following Easter or a little later it should flower—the flower spike coming up from the base of the new shoot on one or both sides. After flowering the shoot grows slowly in the Winter and rapidly with the Spring warm weather to bulb up in late Summer and throw its new shoot and flower spike again about late April. Two points to watch:— (1) The new shoot easily rots in the centre, so grow in the open air. (2) It has a large root system and is a gross -feeder so richen the mixture and increase the size of the pot but be sure that drainage is perfect. The flowers are purple, pale mauve, striped. The sizes varies with culture. Species strongly perfumed. Usually 5 to 7 flowers on an erect spike and last 2 to 3 weeks. | | | | | \ | AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 29 Victorian Cultural Notes June, July, August R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick. Vic. @ VW; 7 : Hoan 1s again upon us, and the need for chill are in watering and protection against on Desai itself. On the contrary, we are seas by our Cypripediums being in opin ie by Our interest in the rapidly devel- i a hes spikes of the Cymbidiums, while Gat art of the period our Dendrobiums and a ae ut have reached maturity with their Pl ceri and will require to be dried off near he itms.—These should be hung up at tate 8lass and be almost completely deprived ane eb this Practice being continued until Gaia’ i » Gale in the late winter or early Kc fsa Se are watered too early, instead pethap ae ran will get early growths and atl ; eon Mearns great bulk of your Cattleyas chop treated similarly to Dendrobiums, with atta ee perhaps of those which have not ‘ ae of the new growth. Those few could brightly an ees when the sun is shining enough tise : when you are confident there is ut they cfr apenas the bulk of the water, extremely cold weather. However, since you will be using a lot of stove heat the atmosphere will be dry, and compensating moisture should be spilt on all bright sunny days to make good the moisture evaporated by the artificial heat. Toward the end of this period I would suggest that you carefully examine each of your Cattle- yas and sever your plants at about every four bulbs, but in cutting the rhyzome with a knife, be sure that the “eye” immediately, behind the cut is still alive. This is the best time to do that, for if the severing is done a sufficient time before the “eyes” start to swell, the “eye” from the back cut should swell in company with that on the forward lead, and you would have more chance of getting flowers from the severed back lead. With some Cattleyas, how- ever, you will find that by habit, nature makes them break into several leads and the use of the knife will not be necessary, but a large number of the good modern Cattleyas will grow perpetually with one single rhyzome unless forced into growth from the rear of the plants in this manner. “ ever receive any water in Cypripediums.—These should be in flower 6) lou from. Previous Page) was much fe m Grande: At one time there of this ominia of opinion on the culture relative sae bag to see it in flower was a ouseiin ae t was usually grown in a hot Toss) aie Seheiaatdtael compost of fibre and POO. Tn fox pate were indifferent or very @ six-bulbed ete my back bulb was this year ulbs are ie ant with seven leads and the and 14 inches ae 3-inches high, 24-inches wide and I saws thick, It is in flower now (March) ; small plant grown under conditions Similar t ar to m : Owers, Y own with three spikes of good Te is saj said coo cea Odontoglossums require shade, Phere, but a and a misty ‘undefined atmos- English nurseri Ooper an expert of one of the ries f : ard to rence says they find it very Can st ate Serve that srande, © this is not 50 Sy ne i mathout any equivocation, or re- iegaaspche species Odonoglossum Beene O. Schlieperianum, that : , ydney. Their culture here in Ys Precisely that of Cymbidiums—no es » In anyway whatever. So i s . So if you * O. Grande as you do your cymbid. it will reward you each March to April with its erect spikes of 5-7 flowers of beautiful gold, barred with red brown from the new half grown lead. Slowly but surely we are enlarging the group of species which can successfully be grown, out of doors—away from traditional English cul- tural methods (hitherto, our only guide) by actual cultural experience. It would make interesting reading to com- pile a list of the different genera that can be readily, and reasonably, grown under bush house conditions in Sydney and its environs. Your O. Grande should flower in 3 years from a back bulb, which should be treated exactly the same as the cymbidium back bulb, or the Zygopetalum bulb. When established, place it amongst your cymbidiums and forget about it for it is not a hard orchid to grow—easier than Zygopetalum in that its new shoots do not have the reprehensible tendency to dump off. To prophesy, I am sure that this year there will be several or more specimens in flower at our monthly meetings and in the old days years might pass withour such an exhibit at our meetings. ’ Page 30 Cypripediums | L. SASSO, Henley. N.S.W. @ This issue Mr. W. Fahey has asked me to substitute for him as he feels that readers would appreciate a change and the opinions of some- one else other than himself after twelve months of writing for the A.O. Review. Mr. Fahey is recognised as somewhat of an authority on Cyps. His plants are well known to Show-goers and they speak for themselves and I feel a bit diffident in taking over from such a capable grower. However, I have been growing these subjects now for several years and have achieved some success with their culti- vation and on the Show-table. Not specialising in any particular genus of Orchid, I can and do admire the different varie- ties and can truthfully say that I have a great liking for “slippers.” Briefly, the reason for this, is that most of them are hardy, easy to divide and propogate, quite distinct from any other form of Orchid, the flowers are very long lasting, not easily damaged, can be grown in a limited area, and AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 194ed ee ee | | some of the latter day hybrids are brightly, coloured and a great improvement on the spe cies. Many of the species are quite nice and suit able to the beginner. I grow my plants in a cool glasshouse with 4 low flat roof scarcely 8 feet from the grount level. The glass is wire reinforced which has che, advantage of preventing shattering from hail of the stray slug or stone from the school boys” catapult. The glass is painted all over the outside wit) ordinary household white paint about Octobe each year, and by the time Winter arrives, che paint has either peeled off or has worn very thin and so lets in more light during the dulle part of the year. | While my plants are doing very well indeed) I would not go so far as to say that the flat type roof is any real advantage over the gable- rye roof. One point I would like to emphasise is chat) “slippers” must be grown in a shaded position i SR ain a or at least in bud at this time. Give them no water on the foliage or on the flower buds and restrain your watering during these months to sufficient to keep the soil moist but never to allow the soil to get wet. If you have large plants, May would be about the best time to sever the rhyzome and separate the back flower growths from the forward ones. However, I would not recommend this action unless there were more than two flowered growths includ- ing that flowering this year, behind the forward lead which should now be showing itself. Cymbidiums.—Your chief care during the three months under review will be to Protect your flowers and make the most attractive dis- play possible. I firmly believe in staking every flower spike and in tying it frequently as it develops. They are so soft and succulent that unless properly staked it is very easy for them to be broken. This would particularly apply in New South Wales with plants in the open where such animals as cats or dogs could move amongst the plants and break the spikes. During this period also, the greatest possible care against — slugs and snails should be taken. I have found that the “New Defender” is very reliable for this purpose. A little sprinkled about the benches will possibly keep them in check. However, as a further protection, as soon as the flower buds break out of the sheath, I would suggest wrap ping a liberal quantity of cotton wool soul the stem just below the lowest bud. These pest will not crawl across dry cotton wool. Thi would indicate to you that in watering you" Cymbidiums you should never allow the cotto! wool to get saturated, for your will immediatel! lose its protection. Cymbidiums should be kep' moist during the whole of the winter withou! allowing them to get wet, and if you desire sever the plants to enineee your stock in che coming spring, the month of May would prob ably be the best time to do it. { With all Orchids now careful attention mu“ be paid to the boiler, for you will meet troub! if your fire goes out on a frosty night. The u% of blinds for protection from the sun will nd be necessary during these months and all ht direct sun that can be admitted will be helpful Also, you should watch your ventilation caf’ fully, having it completely closed on really coll nights, open in the day time on sunny days, be | only" partially open in the daytime if the weathe is cold and wet. As your flowers open, if your glass house co to allow condensate to drip at night, you shoul keep a careful watch for this and see that not of the flowers are in the direct line of any drip® Better still, stop the drips if you can. | j AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 they being ver much light, wernt Gis find that whitewash on the blinds ein satisfactory, while others provide pean ncn a ncssion shading has proved all that tequired in other houses, rae cal fay. ae very porous pots, manufac- tanreeetie a at the present time they are ccna aN ancy that the plants thrive alae ace i as the pots keep moist longer, -indl die rs ing all round the pot both above cae the surface of the potting mixture. Ky ane aes much lighter than the ordinary this aien ay moss forms on them very readily, site eee Fe HEE from a cultural point of cee st the roots in good condition, thes aun mewhat unsightly and necessitates ew te bain washed or hosed with a strong diastase sae rid of the mat of moss before Gaara € plant into the home for table dec- Or on to the Show-bench. M . 24 . bate eae mixture consists of one-half new that has been stacked for a few months, to : is ppite one-half leaf-mould, consisting experi 0f pine needles. Contrary to the general tence of others I have found pine needles Y impatient of sun’s rays or even to e very good leaf- ld : sae down eenatiten 2 when old and in a an bark alone seems a little deficient in nourishment f. Important ite ut this is a or the plants. Watering is a most mM in growing any type of Orchid, story in itself, Page 31 EPIDENDRUM, CILIARE This species is not seen in many collections. The flowers are white and interesting. In general appearance the plant resembles a Cattleya. Some- what difficult to grow well. J. R. Bailey, Bot- anic Gardens, Toowoomba, Q’ld is the grower. What to Lecture About Dr. D. A. HERBERT, D.Se., Queensland University, @. eT : = Se titel part of the preparation of lety pa the choice of subject. In the Orchid an oat of the problem is solved; it must Other ty : pas the lecturer wants to talk about that alee @) ee he must start by saying Ouse navies Plants in the bush house or glass Crats of ‘i ee excellent setting for the aristo- Teference 1 Plant kingdom. The preliminary Nends at pate aristocracy of the orchid wins the beginning, and the friendly re- Seption ma y continue i Yr he €ctur g to the end of the €rns o t Crotons. Orchi . Orch Ww reverse the : id growers may, of course, © in other societies. Some time 280 I re a “y: : : ecturing d oSetallesa paper, in which the author an a i i i ow well C quarium society pointed out fish. [ attleyas set off a collection of gold- With ge he went on to talk about Cattleyas, urther mention of goldfish. Now here ugh all the rest may be about ’. is the raw material for a whole series of papers on plants that might have some bearing on orchid. culture. Crotons, dracaenas, primulas, generas, achimenes and so on lend colour in off seasons; ferns give a light touch of foliage. But there are the trees that make good outdoor perches for epiphytic orchids. No one has given us a lecture on them but they would make quite a good paper, and be right on the subject of orchid culture. Different growers use different trees, mostly these that they happen to have growing already. There are the frangipani, the bark of which is a little too dry in the Brisbane climate, but which is very popular in the East Indies, the Queensland Nut (one of the best), the various species of citrus, mango and a host of others. When we can beat the dendrobium beetle (and we must give D.D.T. a trial for that purpose) and the wasp that pollinates the Page 32 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Notes on the Australian Hyacinth Orchid Dipodium Punctatum REV. @ Among the most familiar terrestrial Orchids in many areas of eastern Australia and Tas- mania is Dipodium punctatum, commonly and not inaptly known as the Hyacinth Orchid. Al- though leafless, the beauty of the flowers in a well-developed specimen makes it a general favourite with those who know it. The prevail- ing colour in most districts is bright pink with deep red spots. Except in northern areas, it comes into flower towards midsummer, when most of our bush flowers are over; and perhaps it is for this reason that it has not suffered from the depredations of vandals to the same extent as many of the earlier-flowering plants. It is subject to much variation, both in dimensions and in the colour scheme of the flowers. In what H. M. R. RUPP, Northbridge. N.S.W. we may regard as the type form, the flowers are as described above, the labellum being white or pale, and the stem usually though not in- variably dark red. Leaves are represented by a number of more or less imbricate scales at the base of the stem, and a few small bracts higher up. The height of the plant ranges from under 30 to over 90 cm. (1 to 3 feet). Most plants are comparatively robust, but very slender forms are not uncommon. The flowers are borne in a raceme towards the top of the stem, and vary in number from 5 to as many as 40. Botanically, the Hyacinth Orchid is known AS a holosaprophyte, and its intimate relations with a minute fungoid form of life, by which it is invaded and from which it obtains its neces- Cooktown Orchids as soon as they open, there will be a lot more dendrobiums grown on trees. There are the bush trees to be listed as the fav- ourite perches of native Orchids; ironbarks and Brisbane boxes for Dendrobium aemulum, the Antarctic beech for Dendrobium falcorostrum, and so on. I think this sort of survey might be very useful. We certainly have not got iron- barks, Brisbane boxes and beeches in our back yards ,except in exceptional cases, but in our search for composts I think we are making a big mistake in restricting ourselves to fern roots and sphagnum for the main constituent. Chopped bark of some habitual orchid-harbouring trees seems to be a reasonable basis for experiment. Lectures on native orchids seldom gain any converts to the culture of the smaller and less spectacular of the Australian species. Most of our members have enough to do with their imported types and with the more horticultur- ally desirable of the natives, such as Dendrob- ium phalaenopsis, D. bigibbum, D. Superbiens and D, undulatum, without bothering about the smaller terrestrials and epiphytes. But there is considerable scope for the cultivation of more native species than are in general cultivation. There is the opportunity for a series of papers on the methods of cultivation of such things as Dendrobium Kingianum, D. falcorostrum, the pencil orchids, Calanthe veratrifolia and other desirable types. Our native Cymbidiums, particularly the black orchid (C. Sparksii) de- serves a paper, with special emphasis on the value of the rubble from rotten trees as a potting medium. I don’t think that all members have fully explored the possibilities of terrestrial orchids in the open garden beds. Certainly Epidendrum Boundii and E. O/’Brienianum are popular enough, but a paper on other ground orchids could bring to notice such easily grown plants as Sobralia, Bletia, and even the neglected natives, Calanthe veratrifolia, Phaius and Spathoglottis. In our monthly raffles for the patriotic funds, a plant of say Dendrobium Wardianum, which past experience should suggest will last only a season or two, would almost invariably be chosen as first prize in preference to these terrestrials, and mainly because they have not been urged as ordinary garden plants. They are not at their best as badly treated pot plants. Many of our members would welcome expli- cit instructions on the dividing up of their orchids—something more detailed than a mere suggestion to take back-cuts. They would like to know how they are to tell when a plant is ready for division without being set back, and what plants are suitable subjects. They could be told which is the’ best month for dividing their Cymbidium clumps, for cutting off the tops of the Vandas, and replanting them, and where to make the cut in a Cattleya. It is not everyone who knows these things instinctively and a few rules of thumb particularly in regard to the best months for these operations would be of great value, just as is the rule for plant- ing sweet peas on St. Patrick’s Day. q : ] j AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Ped wean) JN, DIPODIUM PUNCTATUM The type form, drawing about natural size. - Sar bese ate of special interest. This subject uckie i equately dealt with by Dr. John Mc- ings Or ai Sydney University, in the Prooced- tl € Linnean Society of N.S.W., Vol. other (1922), p- 293. There are, however, are eae of interest about this Orchid which These are. the scope of Dr. McLuckie’s paper. Concerned chiefly with colour scheme, Dese are 1Mensio : 8, geographic distribution, altitude and Page 33 character of habitat, and the practicability of cultivation. 1. Colour Scheme.—The colour of the type form has already been indicated. Variants from this are: (i) Flowers red with pale pink spots— just the reverse of the typical scheme; (ii) Flowers wholly deep maroon except for the pale lakellum; (iii) Flowers dark mauve. This form is rare, and has only been collected by me once, in the Paterson Valley, N.S.W.; (iv) Flowers greyish-pink, without any spots. This form be- longs to the far north of the continent, and was described by Schwartz in 1927 as a distinct species, D. stenocheilum. In the “North Queens- land Naturalist” for December, 1939, I exp- pressed agreement with Schwartz’s. view; but. subsequent investigation of better material than I had had, and comparison with a large series of specimens of D. fusctatum from many areas, convinced me that D. stenocheilum should be reduced to a form of the latter. (“North Queens- land Naturalist,’ June, 1944). The labellum is a little longer and narrower than in the type, and the pubescence on its mid-lobe is more extensive; but I found that these variations could be matched perfectly in certain specimens from Southern Queensland and New South Wales, which were growing in association with typical plants. Le 2. Dimensions.—These are extremely vari- able, both in the plant itself and in the flowers. Generally speaking, the tallest and most robust plants are found in southern areas—though this rule is subject to exceptions. The size of the flowers appears to vary quite irrespectively of latitude. The minimum diameter from tip to tip of the perianth-segments would be about 15 mm., and the maximum rather more than twice as much. There does not seem to be any connection between the size of the flowers and the robustness or otherwise of the plant— a very slender plant may sometimes produce large flowers, and a robust plant small ones. 3. Geographic Distribution, and Altitude and Character of Habitat.—These points may conveniently be taken together. They in- dicate a remarkable adaptability to environment, such as exhibited by no other Orchid known to me in our continent. I have personally col- lected Dipodium punctatum on the shores of D’Entrecasteaux Channel in southern Tasmania; and I have received specimens from the Nor- thern Territory and the far north of Queens- land. he species occurs in all the States ex- cept Western Australia. I have seen it growing a few feet above sea level, and at an altitude of about 1300 m. (4000 ft.): in almost raw Page 34 sand, in red loam, in heavy black soil, and in hard shale or clay. Dr. McLuckie (l.c., p. 309) describes it as growing “in the humus under Eucalypts;” but although it is probably most abundant in such an environment, it occurs quite freely under other conditions. It is not unknown inland from the Dividing Range; but undoubtedly it prefers the coastal belt, and it has never been recorded from the plains of the in- terior. Its range from north to south—exclusive of Tasmania—must be about 1500 miles. In New South Wales the range from east to west would not exceed 200 miles. 4. Practicability of Cultivation.—At sight of a good specimen of this Dipodium in full bloom, the Orchid fancier instinctively desires to add it to his collection. Many have tried; I have yet to hear of anyone who has succeeded. I have dug up a large square of earth contain- ing a budding plant, and have removed it with- out disturbing the root system. It flowered, and as is the habit of the species, afterwards died down; but it never reappeared, and when ultim- ately I made investigations, a few dead fibrous scraps of roots were all I could find. Some people have argued that this refusal to grow in cap- tivity proves that the orchid must be a para- site on the roots of trees. The only evidence AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 that could prove the correctness of this sug- gestion would be the finding of Dipodium roots which had penertated the living tissue of their supposed host, and were feeding on it. Dr. Mc- Luckie’s investigations, and perhaps I may add, my own over a long period of years, have failed to find a single case which might support the idea of parasitism on roots. Personally I have no doubt that the failure of the plant to respond to cultural methods is directly connected with its peculiar mode of life. I cannot go into details here of the “symbiotic relation” between the orchid and the fungus that invades its roots: but to put it roughly, the Orchid is fed by the waste products of its invader, and vice versa. If the invader threatens to increase dangerously, the Orchid produces special cells to devour it and keep it within bounds. Now my theory is that when the Orchid is removed from its nat- ural habitat, in some way the delicate balance of these relations is upset, with fatal results to Dipodium. I admit freely that this is theory and nothing more; but I think it would be worth while for some one younger than myself to in- vestigate along this line, and perhaps ultimately to solve the problem of successfully cultivating a very beautiful flower. Observations on Cymbidiums in Sydmey A. R. BEGG, Bellevue Hill, N.S.W. @ During recent years there has been several excellent articles appearing in this Review con- cerning the culture of Cymbidiums in Sydney and I find it difficult to break new ground re- garding the growing of these wonderful hybrids. Thanks to these articles and the exchange of views at our monthly meetings we have con- siderably improved our culture both in quality and quantity, for here, as I write this, in mid- February, I should say that at least 90 per cent. of my large plants are showing signs of flower- ing. : ; We are considerably fortunate in Sydney in being able to grow Cymbidiums in bush houses with perhaps a little glass protection in a shel- tered corner to place plants that are about to open their flowers. The only drawback I see is that we start with a collection of a few dozen plants and in a few years we have hundreds, and a lot of work. I agree with the generally accepted practice that cymbids should receive as many hours daily of sunlight as possible, with slight filter of ti- tree or some similar roof. If you can, give them 9 -hours daily in summer and about 8 hours in winter. A North-East aspect is ideal. If your house is exposed to South and West run some clear glass along these sides and you will find your plants flower more freely and the spikes will come earlier. Give plants due to flower posi- tions of most sunlight, moving the smaller ones — into the shady positions but do not move a plant suddenly from shade to sunlight, do it gradu- ally. Compost.—The question of compost is always a debatable subject but the physical nature of it is very important, it must be free and open. It is important that the grower under- stands the vast difference between the construc- tion of the root system of cymbidiums and the roots of ordinary garden plants and shrubs. The fibrous roots of plants with their millions of almost microscopic root hairs absorb large quan- tities of water, these wiry roots will withstand much more sodden conditions than the soft thick, fleshy roots of cymbidiums. This does not mean a curtailment of watering, cymbidiums require lots of water in the warmer season and —— AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 a little j . ane in the dormant months, even continuous wae is beneficial if the compost is open. The tf must not be ! edb; stagnant, but run through 4 etting back to compost, something like this houuld suffice: Cod sweet well rotted pas SG) 24 parts by measure y rotted tan bark . 25a; Curse sand _. 1 : in i Some Rhe NLS Aifiey Fees ” »” ” arcoal (small lumps) J ereesshe less » spnounce pis hard and fast to these propor- use only 0 ark or leaf mould, some growers i eno with sand, but I think both should relk dia as the tan bark taking longer to i 2 Baud release the plant food at the Satie ee 3 of a compost required for a plant Ais Hai years or more. Most leaves are suit- Fess eae gum leaves, which have given insignus) R Be do not use pine needles (pinus rot dow, s the leaves take several months to Citizens oe Must arrange your compost re- bitin ee year ahead. To hasten the rotting little old ss of leaf mould and tanbark add a - oOmpost or manure to the heap, keep JUSt moist : st ae : often in a warm position and turn it over Tr A : all ane nd standardize your composts so they Se ete and if you find a pot where eae Oes not pass through quickly and it ae we On top get the plant out of that Pree ore trouble starts with rotted roots out int y rotted bulbs. Spread your compost oe e ane before using it to remove slugs, eT ae etc. Use it almost dry. tone ke int when repotting choice plants is ome and eae underneath and around the rhiz- bulb ror st Sas an added protection against lara me basa the primary eyes against ant Rvecits of compost is controlled by the canvredtas you have little time to water you ty out Ss rch sand, also for small pots which ire esti ly it is advisable to close the mix- the eet ing the withholding of water from D dyceai pected plants for 5 days or more as would sq Yaons of Sydneys’ leading growers Brower ig ay €s, good idea! particularly if the Btowers h, Ot using added heat. In Sydney many repotti, tve not heated houses therefore when 80 easy Stet AL August, or early September ave been, i. ¢ watering of repotted plants that ence of roken up, until you get some evid- Stowth starting. Urin changes 2 these months we get sudden cold tions temperature, back to winter condi- whi F > Which sometimes last several days, In the eco COm too Page 35 October root action is quicker and plants can receive more water and I think this is a more suitable time to repot rundown plants although it may be late and miss next season’s flowering. Personally I repot Aug.-Sept. for large plants and the smaller ones any time of the year except winter months, I read an article recently by a Melbourne grower who repots in early Spring and adyo- cates watering immediately, but this grower will place his plants in a heated house and probably use bottom heat as well. If you have seen these aids it is easy. Regarding waternig throughout the year it is difficult to put on paper, commonsense’ must be used in this important part of culture. I have two groups of cymbidiums in two houses both with similar ti-tree roof and aspect but one has an earth floor while the other has sandstone slabs, this latter house requires almost twice as much watering as the other. Generally I would say in the summer months water every evening and perhaps in the mornings as well on very hot days, gradually reduce toward winter when once or twice weekly would do but only in the mornings. The growing of Cymbidiums is an education, the different types and nature of plants in simi- lar crosses is remarkable. The grower must get to know his plants, some are robust and good growers, others are slow and fussy. Some make large bulbs but grow slowly, others make small bulbs but grow like weeds. Some flower them- selves to death, others are shy flowerers and we have to resort to tricks to make them do some- thing. Some require plenty of sunlight when coming to flower, others do better if kept in the shade, also the same plant grown by different persons using different methods will give differ- ent results. All this adds to the interest of a very interesting and fascinating hobby that is growing at a remarkable rate in this country. ® Orchid Exhibitions.—We will be pleased to receive from Interstate Societies official re- ports of Exhibitions held during the 1946 season. Organisers of other Societies, Trade and Charity Shows are invited to send along short reports of their show events. © Zygopetalum Machayii.—This Orchid with its long lasting very sweetly scented flowers should be more popular. It is very easy to grow if treated as, and grown with the Cymbidiums. During the next three months treat as for Cym- bidiums. Repot in August or September in Cym- bidium mixture—T.H.]J. Page 36 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 | Notes for Novices T. H. JAMES, Hazelbrook. N.S.W. @ The cheerless months of winter are with us again; obvious of course, about it being winter, but there are some who won’t agree that it is cheerless. They are welcome to their opinions. Most of our Orchids do not seem to worry about it over much. They sort of hibernate and do not require much attention and the only safe gener- alisation to make regarding them is to give too little rather than too much water. All moss used as topping and also in sides of baskets should be removed if not already done. I intended to men- tion this in the March notes but cannot remem- ber whether I did and the March issue has not yet appeared as I write these notes. Anyway it will bear repeating. Apart from retaining too much moisture it would tend to keep the rhiz- omes damp and cold and may cause rot. There are several jobs that could be done during winter such as preparing compost for repotting when that time shall have arrived. Time passes so rapidly with most of us that if preparations for jobs ahead be not made beforehand potting will find us racing round for materials and for lack of time, some plants that needed repotting will have to stand over until next year. That hap- pens with me too often. I hate to think what an experienced observer would discover from a critical comparison of some of my plants with the advice I offer to others. But I could pro- duce a good alibi. Incidentally I know quite a few who do not practice what they preach but what I do preach is the result of considerable exnerience and observation. Houses could receive a general clean up, painting, etc. If left until spring, it either will not be done at all, or the work will be hurried and patchy. - Light.—As advised in last issue it would be better if all paint were removed to permit full sunlight reaching the plants. The rays are at too low an angle now to do any harm and abund- ance of light is necessary for the chemical changes that take place in a plant’s make up. Ventilation.—Do not seal up the house just because it is winter. It is impossible to retain much warmth in the general type of glasshouse without artificial heat. So ventilators on the sheltered side should be kept open or partly so even at night to maintain air circulation. And remember plants are accustomed to a lower tem- perature at night than during day. Cymbidiuwms.—Most of the early varieties have finished flowering and will need very little water until August when root action will com-_ mence in coastal districts. As to the majority the flower spikes will be moving very slowly until August and until then give only sufficient — water to maintain a moist compost. Most of the Cymbidiums grown in New South Wales are_ either in bush houses or out in the open, and with these rain takes a hand, but if the pots be well drained, raised off the ground’ and the compost of an open nature, the rain will do no harm. During August water should be increased and liquid manure the colour of weak tea provided about every ten days. A glass roof would be 4 great asset to flowers by protecting them from inclement weather, but not essential. A dark background would help to prevent twisted spikes. Repotting is generally in full swing in August. In coast districts that may be quite in order but I have found that in cooler districts root action does not start until later and if plants be repotted before that happens there 1s a tendency for it to be unduly delayed and in some cases roots may even suffer injury and the bulbs shrivel. So I would suggest, if in doubt, that a few pots be upended and plants carefully lifted out. If there are no signs of new life defer potting for a while. This does not anply so much where it is intended only to trans- fer to a larger pot as to where it is necessary to break up plants. In either case however better results would be obtained by waiting until there are definite signs of activity. As to compost ! still believe there is no such thing as the one and only formula, The fine results achieved in a great variety of composts should be sufficient evidence of that. So long as it has a fair amount of plant nutriment, is of an open nature that will remain damp without being wet, and the pot with at least a quarter of its depth in drain- age, the actual ingredients do not much matter. Enlarge drainage hole if possible and raise pots above ground to admit air to the roots. Com- post should be used comparatively dry. Do not water plants for several days and then sparingly for about two weeks. If plant is to be broken up remove all old bulbs except two front ones and also all dead or damaged roots. If not to be broken up hose away all old compost. Suspend plant over the new pot and gently rotate so that roots settle down in a spiral manner, thus avoid- ing damage. Roots are very brittle and if forced into pots in any other way would be seriously injured and rot. Plants that do not require AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Rae could be assisted by hosing out some G old compost and filtering in fresh. he Sale a tems will now be in full bloom and as ey) a ae rotting buds mainly over as, ee Tae Sue leaf axil, they are practically aes reo sufficient water to keep compost rides shea in mind that tan bark requires ore va ‘ a other composts. After flower- eer ee ed is the usual time for repotting. Aue cages this should be deferred until tee re i on later. Various composts are in Alken re prefer tan bark. In the past I ore ee my supplies given to me but up ad to obtain my own and thereby gained SsOme : ; 5, sane Buenas I went to a tannery at Kings- and got som j i irr g e bark just out of the pit. I te unsatisfactory as all plants potted in it te die Practically stationery all the season Soinscline a after the bark had broken down ak 8 the plants made particularly good Atl coe mae parently very fresh bark is either too fenl ii A : a state to be available as plant Ghaniinihe © had very good results by using a ae aerate to which an equal part of onl dey See een added. When repotted keep sparingly { or about ten days and then water apc or another two weeks. Thereafter as stablished plants. agi ee etc for one regret that so few ft ah eauti Ful Orchids are seen these days. romyled ue immense numbers were imported oS dives urma and thereabouts. Surely most they ae ave pene out. Then, where are ts sre nobile is the best known and one ane ee aro: There are now some very fa mae aoe that species. Den. Wardianum is, rarely ey oa the gem of the genus but it is ore _ 4 ave been told it is very difficult meh al as grown and flowered well with of : a fase ese neglect. It is really a bush house uring bers would need protection from rain Dress uns Should be repotted at least every ing cae ts. Requires practically no water dur- infundibal: I would place after those two Den. a es vag and its variety Jamesianum. They lowish ss eects pure white except for a yel- weeks ah ing in the lip. They last about ten or as are produced from the same bulb for. en ‘Pig ore years. Keep on dry side all winter. a oe is another attractive species of growely Owth with long slender pendulous owerin up to four feet long and very free era Keep practically dry all winter. hats bes endrobiums should now be showing should er buds. Whilst very little or no water © given the bulbs should not be allowed nt : : he past but just now showing evidence. Page 37 CALANTHE, VERATRIFOLIA The “Scrub Lily” is also known as the “Christ- mas Orchid.” The leaves resemble an aspidistra, but are paler and much softer. The three-lobed lip is large and, gives the impression of a double flower. The flowers turn black if touched. to shrivel. As spring approaches more water will be required but according to weather condi- tions and whether in bush or glass house. Trans- fer to a glass house, if possible, when buds are about to open. Cattleyas.—The chief problem for cool house growers will be to maintain a dry atmosphere during the cold months. Cold combined» with damp may cause losses. If the house be devoted to Cattleyas or Cattleyas and Dendrobiums only the matter is simple, but where other Orchids and foliage plants are also grown under the one roof the Cattleyas should be grouped together at one end and the surroundings kept dry. This does not mean that the plant should be kept quite dry. The bulbs must not shrivel, give only enough water to prevent that. Page 38 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 ODONTOGLOSSUM GRANDE Colour, chestnut brown on bright yellow. Lasts over 3 weeks. Requires a little more shade than cymbidiums. Grown by R. A. Begg, Bellevue Hill. Photo, Norman Keith, Petersham, N.S.W. AUSTRALIAN ORCHI Sepals and petal D REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 39 CATTLEYA, AMETHYSTOGLOSSA $s rosy lilac, lip deep amethyst. Average blooms about 6 or 7; this one carries fourteen. An unusually beautiful specimen. Grown by H. Campbell, Brisbane. Photograph, H. Solomon, New Farm. 1946 Page 40 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, ORCHID SOCIETY . Dense OF EXHIBITIONS N.S.W. 1946 B.C. CLIFTONVILLE , 4 The Winter Show will be held at the Austral Salon, 152 Elizabeth St., Sydney on 4th July, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. Cypripediums will be seen at their best; and new hybrids flowering for the first time. Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, etc., will also be on display. The Spring Show The Society's main Exhibition will be held at David Jones’ pre- mises, I 1th, I2th, 13th September. Cymbidiums in their full glory, Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, Lycastes and other attractive varieties. The Society's Awards and Medals will again lo awarded for those Exhibits deemed worthy by the Committee. BERNARD JESSOP, Hon. Secretary. JA 7122. 18 Hercules Street, Chatswood. j AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 41 CYPRIPEDIUM PARISHII Grown and photographed by J. R. Bailey, Curator of Parks and Gardens, Toowoomba, Queensland. Peas: in coastal districts will be showing ee atl ou life at the end of August. Septem- ithe e early enough to repot. In the mean- di Protect swelling buds or new shoots from gs. aro tis Cease all overhead watering. If oa fiostside during summer remove to 8lass- much i erm situation for winter. Provide as enough a5 t as possible. _ September is early cies foe © repot. Ph. Walliachii is the best spe- Lan novices. al baile Skinneri.—Compost should be kept _ eet during winter, Provide as much light Until) i Generally flowers from late winter — ‘ _into spring but with me always Hog Ewice—in early Autumn and again in Pring, ® The Austr 8taphs Cation or dlian Orchid Review.—Photo- » questions, letters and articles for publi- should be addressed to the Hon. Editor Ssociates at their home address. @aA : 2 ver communications regarding back numbers, mene isements, changes of address, and pay- of subscriptions for the “Review” should Irect ' F Shep ed to the printers, and publishers, yd erd and Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, ney, N.S.W. @ Photographs.—Photographs should be accompanied by: (1) The correct name of the Orchid; (2) The grower’s name; (3) The photographer’s name; (4) Three or four lines of description, size, and colour of flower or other points of interest. Repotting.—When repotting terrestrials it is an advantage to place some material such as moss, leaves, fibre or even old hessian over drain- age to prevent the soil washing into it and so impairing its efiiciency.—TI.H.]J. Awards issued by the Orchid Society of N.S.W. during the year 1945: Award of Merit. Cymbidium, Girrahween, var. “Gloria,” C. H. Deane; appeared in the March issue incorrectly as, Cymbidium, Girrahween, var. “Glorious,” C. R. Deane. Highly Commended. Cymbidium, Arabella. “Waverley,” was omitted. Award of Merit. Cymbidium, Charm, var. “Elegans.” L. F. Hawley. The original of this plant was known as Cymbidium Charm, var. “Elegance.” It has now been agreed to retain the name “Elegance.” R. Dart. The varietal name Page 42 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 The Principles of Hybridization RR. H. NEM, Leichhardt, N.S.W. @ In the study of hybridising, it is necessary first of all, to have a good working knowledge of the processes of a plant, in order that the worker may have a fuller understanding of the forces with which he proposes to work. He most certainly should understand as fully as possible, the processes he causes to begin the instant he places the pollen on to the stigmatic surface. He should also have a good cultural knowledge of various plants, so that he may form a reason- ably accurate method of treating the seedlings of hybrids made between two plants of widely differing habits of growth. He must also expect to devote quite a considerable amount of his time and money to his studies and experiments, as it takes quite some few years for Orchid seed- lings to reach the adult stage. To successfully combine the qualities of dif- ferent plants by crossing, requires a rare degree of skill and judgment. It might seem, perhaps, a comparatively simple matter to make all pos- sible Cattleya crosses, for example, and select the best. But in practice it is found that the num- ber of possible combinations is so great, and re- sults so varied, that short-cut methods must be used. The hybridiser must be able to reasonably forecast what the result of a certain cross will be, in order not to waste time on profitless ex- periments. It is just here that the opportunity for the employment of the highest skill, based not only on empirical knowledge, but on a pro- found insight into the laws of heredity and variation, and a sound philosophy of nature arises. Moreover, there must be a clear-cut ideal present in the mind of the worker, towards which he persistently strives, and from which he refuses to diverge even for the most promising side ‘issues. Orchids, like all other plant life, are divided into classes or genera, such as the Laeliae or Laelias; the Epidendrae or Epidendrums; the Cymbidiae and Cymbidiums, and these are again divided in some cases into sub-tribes. These are again divided into what we call species, which are the individual nomenclature of the plants found in their native state. Two well known examples which should be in every beginner’s collection are Cym. Traceyanum and Cym. Giganteum. Now, it is a familiar fact that every plant shows some variation, since no two plants, or leaves even, are exactly alike, and it has been discovered that variation obeys certain laws. It not only confines itself within certain lim- its, but there is a certain average form or type around which the variation group themselves. If we examine a number of plants of the same species or kind, we will readily notice that this holds true, as there will be well defined differ- ences in colours, spots, or shaps of floral parts, and differences between plants in leaf length and breadth. These variations are commonly called fluctuating variations, because. they fluctuate around a mean or average type; and to distin- guish them from sudden variations or sports, such as reversions and monstrosities, which are sudden and apparently lawless variations from the type, and only occur occasionally; fluctuat- ing variations on the other hand, occur every- where and in all plants. To explain the differ- ence between these terms, let us take as an ex- ample a peach tree, which may occasionally pro- duce a branch which bears only nectarines. This is called a sport. If this branch be cut off and used as a cutting, it will produce a nectarine tree. Occasionally a branch of this will produce peaches; this return to the original condition is termed a reversion or atavism, and is also apt to occur in plants which are not known to have originated as sports. The word sport is usually applied to bud varia- tions, but is not necessarily limited to them. It may be used for any kind of sudden variation. The term monstrosity is commonly used to desig- nate a sudden variation which has the appear- ance of a sudden abnormality or deformity. Sudden variations may or may not come true to seed. By varying the conditions of culture and climate, it is possible for the breeder to pro- duce variations, or as he says ‘break the type.” Some plants respond to this treatment, and others do not. In general, however, this is a tedious pro- cess, and of very small value as compared with crossing. Sudden variations are sometimes called muta-— tions, but this is only correct if the plant breeds true in its seedlings. The adyantages of crossing, are that the breeder can create almost endless variations, and at the same time direct them in the desired channels. By crossing is meant the fertilization of 3: plant with pollen from a different variety o1 cael a a cc SS te nn rare ect a Sn AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Sarat The result of the cross is called a hybrid, etic made between two distinct genera, is Sah is aabeneric hybrid, af between a bi-gen- eet nid and another third genus, this would ata ; tri-generic hybrid. The hybrid may e ea oth parents, or possess intermediate ern ae a may resemble one parent more eyes e other, sometimes showing the charac- One parent only. F This would be a clear case of the domination oan parent over the other. It frequently hap- Er s that the hybrid is of greater size and vigour an either of the parents. ' Rs of the most striking traits of hybrids is Alea tendency to vary widely. This can be iy "Ny seen by the variations in foliage, size and eee of bulb, etc., of Cymbidiums having the ee parentage, all having come from the same able pod. Such hybrids represent extremely vari- on OS in which it is practically impossible X anything, mus is no mystery in the method by which aie Hens effected, but one point should be iis Mbered, and that is, that the more difficult Cross, the greater should be the number of Plants used, of a common method of effecting the transfer wae “a from one flower to another is as fol- a AT ake two unused matches, and pare them 4 blunt point, then sterilize by holding the . Points ; ts in a flame for a few seconds. When cool, Plac . € the point of one match beneath the: ros- Soe cap should fly off and the match come y with the pollinia attached. © this with the second match to the other a ake then apply the point of the first match hag: pes of the second flower, and hold it the we Or 2 or 3 seconds, and on withdrawing ok ne the pollen masses will be found to AWE ered to the stigma. It is always advis- lane © effect the reciprocal cross at the same as the one pollination operation may fail. intact ee of the cross should be at once a dist up in a book kept for the purpose, and Unguishing label affixed to the pedicel of themes tyes flowers, showing the particulars, BWetts flow Rs mer : short time, the column will begin the tip ue the flower to fade, and gradually Stents the column will grow down over the 1¢ surface, thus entirely sealing it over. 7. ection of pollen may or may not age ah € setting of fruit. If the parents are Wess Issimilar species, fruit will ‘not set at It may do so only very occasionally. resul t cllum: or beak, and press upwards, when the’ Page 43 Sometimes fruit appears to set,, but on ripen- ing it is found to contain no seed; again, seeds are produced, but are incapable of germination. The seeds may germinate, but the seedlings may prove to be so weak that considerable difficulty is experienced in growing them to maturity. Even in favourable cases, all the seeds are not good, but if only a few good seeds are obtained, it is sufficient for a start to be made. The period required for Orchid seed pods to mature varies with the species, but usually takes one full season, and even up to two years is not uncommon, ‘ After the seed has been obtained, they may be sown by using one of the several methods available. Direct on the compost of an adult plant, by the Symbiotic or Fungus method, or by the Asymbiotic or Sugar method. When the seedlings are obtained and finally reach the adult flowering stage, and the blos- soms appear, another important question must be decided. Shall they be pollinated with the pollen of a sister hybrid, either one of the par- ents, or of another variety of the same genus. Here, again, comes the opportunity for the great- est skill and judgment to be exercised. The flowers are compared and carefully exam- ined, only the most desirable varieties being kept for purposes of further breeding, the remainder being disposed of. The seeds of these selected varieties are again crossed, and upon flowering, the best. of these again selected. (aR 2S See es “This is continud indefinitely until a desirable variety is secured, or until it becomes evident that no good results are to be expected; in that case the plants are all destroyed or otherwise disposed of, and the work of years ends in noth- ing. . It is very evident, therefore, that hybridiza- tion, with all its marvellous results is but the beginning of plant breeding. All that it does is to furnish mass produced varitions. To seize upon these, even though they be slight, and divert them into the proper channels, to inten- sify the good, and suppress the undesirable quali- ties, until the ideal is reached, is the task of selection. When plants can be propagated by cuttings (aerial growths) bulbs or other vegetative parts, the ideal once achieved is easily maintained, for plants so propagated “come true,” or, in other words maintain the characters of the parent plant with little variation. Far otherwise, however, with plants which are propagated by seed; for, after selection has Page 44 achieved the ideal, it has still the task of fixing it so that it will come true to seed. In order to achieve our ideal, we have had to set into motion the tendency to variation, or, as we say, we have “broken the type.”? When the ideal is achieved, this same tendency which we have set in motion, will destroy our ideal, unless selection is able to suppress the tendency, and so “fix the type,” or in other words bring the plant again to a state of equilibrium. This we can do to a great extent, but not so fully that continued selection is unnecessary, and, as so often happens with ordinary non-orchidaceous garden plants, years elapse before it is suffici- etly fixed to put it on the market. In the earlier part of this discourse we men- tioned the phenomenons of ‘“‘atavism” and “mutation.” An atavistic plant is one which exhibits char- acters which its ancestors probably had a long time ago, and which had long lain dormant, but which were now brought out by some unknown cause. This phenomenon is called “atavism” and the plant is called an atavist. If the seeds of such plant are sown, probably few atavists, or none at all will appear in the progeny. It is classed as a sudden variation. If, now, we should find a plant exhibiting characteristics of a certain nature, and all of whose descendants showed these same character- istics coming perfectly true to seed, and kept AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 this up without need of selection, then this — would constitute a mutation. We have, there- — fore, ordinary fluctuating variations (due partly or wholly to differences in nutrition and external conditions); second, sudden variations, e.g., atavism, monstrosity, etc. (due to causes wholly unknown); if these should come true to seed they would be called mutations, otherwise not. A mutation is a sudden variation which comes, — true to seed, and it is believed that this alone can give rise to a new species. The prospects for the serious hybridist in Australia, are indeed promising. We have large numbers of native plants from which to evolve new types, and we are indeed fortunate in our climate, for we can successfully cultivate the majority of the Indian species of Dendrobes while the South American Cattleyas, Laelias, Zyzopetalums, Epidendrums, etc., grow in a climate almost parallel to our own. In conclusion I would like to plead with our growers to assist anyone interested in this fascin- ating section of the Orchid cult, by the dona- tion of flowers or seed, or even to the loan of a plant for the season, for it is only by mutual co-operation, that we in this young country may strive to equal, and eventually to pass, the standards set down by the English growers for new and more beautiful hybrids in all the dif- ferent genera. Amateur Orchid Cultivation in U.S.A. R. S. DAVIS, Major A.C. (U.S. Army ) @ A consideration of amateur orchid cultiva- tion in the U.S. requires a realization of the extreme climatic conditions encountered throughout the country and during a year. Further appreciation should also be given to the varied type shelters which are employed, and to those adventurous individuals, living in con- gested areas such as apartment houses, who cul- tivate plants in window boxes and Wardanian Cases (hot houses in miniature), instead of enjoying the advantages of a regular hot house no matter what its size may be. Climatic variations extend from situations in Florida smilar to the Brisbane area through regions comparable to Sydney, Melbourne and Tasmania, climaxing in the northern sections where winter temperatures fall to 30 degrees below zero (F.). Climatic deviations of this nature have resulted in localized modification of cultivation techniques to provide desired growing conditions and as a result numerous types of hot houses, shelters and window boxes or Wardanian Cases are designed and utilised. In Florida, along the Gulf of Mexico and in southern California the mean atmospheric tem- ’ perature is usually high enough to permit the growth of orchids utilizing a glass enclosed shelter without elaborate heating systems. How- ever, on those few nights when the tempera- ture may drop below 45 degrees (F.), intermit- tent heat is provided by various innovations. In some instances a small wood or coal stove which can be banked and allowed to burn slowly dur- ing the night is installed along with a stove pipe extending the length of the house to pro- vide a large heating surface insuring an even distribution of heat. Other installations employ oil or natural gas heaters incorporating circul- ating air or hot water systems. In cooler zones to the north low tempera- tures encountered at nights over an extensive period as well as during overcast days require AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 45 Why do Cymbidiums not flower freely im Sydmey? | R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vie. See article was prompted by discussion on a, ae at a N.S.W. Orchid Society meet- tae seen admitting the low percentage Sate s a offered no reason for it. At the ir see to emphasise that this article is hen I al; it is purely theoretical but I hope eneficial discussion will result. ak. fees of my argument is going to be that mer edie: percentage in Melbourne is very Bek gher than in Sydney. In fact, one fully S at least one flower spike from every the i : i Installation of permanent intermittent auto- Matic : Z i ain Rae systems. Circulating hot water ar heaters are employed ; ed and u om cautions ploy adequate pre ites ahen to assure correct humidity con- sanyeraite ae ee localities it is necs- avon: _ heating arrangements which may dtesaaei continually for some months with control, E a) and night automatic temperature reer fai er, precautions must be taken to innesetee ouse whenever possible eliminating ossibili y ventilation thereby decreasing the ity of heat escape. howe jaaustion in Ohio contains a pair of Hn salva Nnected by a large passage at one end, een bea co mattC systems are provided where- ingeee e. A thermostat controls the open- the root paee of the ventilating windows in coleue the houses as well as the heater for trols an ise Operation. A second system con- ture f, 3 arm which rings when the tempera- ae: to a serious low because of failure of This eee equipment or thermostatic control. not able SRS cine is most satisfactory if one is ever, the Be time for close supervision. How- ing toleoe ae amateur takes pleasure in tend- is ¢ of these chores himself and does not extensive system necessary. wits pears cial grower in the New York area and hrs 1Zes in raisng flowers for the market necessity Annee of 100,000 plants stressed the Ouses in pecxidipedalmest air tight glass te Ra we region in order to conserve the Perature a to maintain correct house tem- Sie au pupiiecence, compared with a glass one Ganieean ern California, is apparent when the ningite the method of glazing the glass. In ce -¢ast this must be accomplished with loose| ‘OWever, in the west the glass is placed Yin the frames and if any cracks occur in mature plant, provided that no action such as late potting has been taken to stop it from flowering. My observation tells me that Orchids fail to flower for one of four reasons:— 1. That the plant is sterile. 2. That the plant habitually makes foliage and bulbs without flower. 3. That it was heavily divided and .repotted in the previous Spring. 4, That the growths which normally throw the joints of woodwork it is not a serious con- sideration. Considerable controversy also continues re- garding the most satisfactory arrangement of benches and pots. Some individuals like the staggered system of shelves or steps while others believe that flat benches are best. While on the question. of the spacing of pots, many are of the opinion that they should be placed 2 or 3 (6 in. pots) to a square foot of shelf space. This arrangement is inducive to a very neat and healthy establishment. However, some of. the other growers find that they can successfully flower the plants even when the pots are cramped and touching. In southern California Cymbidiums may be grown in the ground under a lath house similar to a bush house. However, to successfully grow the intermediate and warm types of orchids amateur enthusiasts use different types of glass shelters, the most common of which is of a lean-to design which backs on to a garage or side of a house. Here the amateurs’ collections consist primarily of Cattleyas, including C. Trianae, C. Mossiae, C. labiata and some hybrids. Considerable interest is being developed in the cultivation of hybrids including those of Catt leyas, Cymbidiums, and Cypripediums and through this interest many amateurs have col- lections which include a few community pots of seedling hybrid plants. The remainder of the collection may contain some Dendrobiums, On- cidiums and possibly a Vanda or two, also Phalaenopsis and a few Cymbidiums. This group provides a very colourful display throughout the year, and from all indications, the fact that orchid growing is not mysterious but a fascin- ating activity is leading many amateurs into this interestng pastime. Page 46 the flower are not sufficiently mature when the flowering season arrives. Dealing with them in turn:— 1.—Can be immediately passed aside. I have seen an odd sterile Cymbidium, but they are so rare as not to be a factor in this argument. Cattleyas, however, are very frequently sterile. 2.—One frequently sees an enormous plant with dark geen foliage and many bulbs. We all know that this plant is sterile because it is over- fed and does not get enough sun and air. The obvious cure here is a change of position to one which makes life somewhat harder for the plant. 3.—We must expect a plant which was heay- ily divided to miss one season’s flowering unless we have growing conditions which enable it to quickly recover from the shock it has receved. A month in bottom heat after repotting is the best cure I know. 4.—Now we come to the main cause; that the flower growth is too immature when the flowering season comes. Having missed the flow- ering season such plants go into growth at once. I am keeping in mind the fact that in Melbourne the percentage of flower is higher than in Sydney, and will try in theory to dis- cover the reason by a comparison of growing methods in the two States. Obviously, this brings glass and heat versus outdoor growing into the argument. It is my opinion that a plant will recover from the shock of repotting much more quickly under glass with applied heat than would be the case in the open. Let us assume that the advantage here, measured in growing calories, equals one month; then the new growth under glass is theoretically one month older when the flowering season comes, and this would probably make all the difference. I do think that a certain amount of outdoor treatment helps a plant, but that should be given in the autumn when the new growth has grown its limit in height and is building up the subsequent bulb. Let us assume that potting is done in July, August and September. Even in Sydney those months can be so cold and wintery that the plant, deprived of its established root system, would remain dormant. Compare that plant in the open during those months with plants under glass where artificial conditions make them sub- limely unconscious of the cold weather outside. The difference, measured in growth calories, must be immense. Similarly, a plant which had ‘the extra ventilation would relieve the house o nica SI ES AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 — not been repotted will have lost a large numbet of growing calories during that cold weather, | and would not build up its new growths as well | as under glass. Another important factor is the rain which falls during those cold months. If saturated in cold weather, a plant will remain dormant until _ warmer weather comes. This would apply to large plants which have not been repotted and to a greater degre to those which have been disturbed. Sydney growers are fortunate in their clim- ate, for a small back yard will accommodate a large number of plants, but I think that here in Melbourne we can console ourselves that out climate forces us to use glass and heat, and as a result we get a higher percentage of flowers. In Sydney I have observed a high percentage of flower with Cattleyas, Slippers and other Orchids given glass house culture, but with Cymbidiums, just as free flowerers, they are puzzled by a low percentage of flowers, and it is my firm opinion that if they had glass and a little added heat through the winter, right to the time when cold weather is a thing of the past, all worry about a low percentage of flower would disappear. Cymbidiums are more free with their flowers in Melbourne than Cypripediums and Cattleyas. In Sydney, to my observation, Cattleyas and Cypripediums flower just as freely, if not more freely, under glass, than is the case in Melbourne, and yet in Sydney, while growing in the open, Cymbidiums do not average much more than half the percentage of flower than is the case in Melbourne. I think I am right in claiming that the annual occurrence of sun is greater in Sydney than Melbourne, and for that reason | | would expect a higher percentage of flower un- — less for some reason this advantage were coun- tered in some manner, and I think that is the check received during the cold months of winter and early spring. Finally, I would love to see some Sydney grower grow Cymbidiums entirely under glass, with heat on from the end of April until early November, using a glass house with much more ventilation than in Melbourne, but having that ventilation under control, so that when it is abnormally cold it can be closed to retain the heat from. the boiler. Naturally, blinds would be necessary to stop too great an accumulation of sun heat during the warm weather, but they would not need to shade as often as we do, for q j | | | j | much heat which is retained in Melbourne. | | | | | | | | | } | | AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 47 A Wardian Case I. S. DAVIS, Major A.C. (U.S. Army ) eeuciiduals living in congested areas in large a of the United States enjoy the pleasure Of growing orchids in their homes and apartment Bai zy utlizing small hot houses or glass cases mat only called Wardian Cases. With such an gement -apartment dwellers can grow their plants in their rooms, small confined porches, ase in extended and enlarged window boxes, a ereby enjoy the extreme beauty and in- meee forms of lovely orchids. A Wardian aie is a term loosely applied to any case or ae ee sy for growing orchids, the dimen- aa of which are so small as to prohibit an tvidual from entering; in other words, a hot- Peawec miniature. For example, a case may -feet long, 24 feet wide and 3 feet high. : t SENS ORES be one constructed especially for ae pee or else a show case may be obtained eee ified to meet the requirements of the ur. Some people are fortunat enough to aan’ purchase a second hand show case, oe instrument cabinet, or an especially well- structed book case, which with a few slight Bier atons can be made readily applicable as were. vr house. Other amateurs feel the urge aR Sa and so by themselves, or with the ees of a cabinet maker, design and build a wn Wardian Case. Those so constructed usually built to conform with a certain de- coe or position, such as, a corner or corns ae addition, a Wardian Case may be iis ae y larger for use out of doors where seri uilt up on a bench and backed to a wall the house or garage. elec or not the case is modified or espe- ae ie for the occasion, there arise the ate pene eae factors of humidity, tempera- ae ay ation and light, requirements and Shires psa of the restricted size of the eu an usual sources of heat are electric conn elements, such as those employed in Sadie! irons, coffee pots or room heaters. In re ce where temperatures do not fall too ines in apartment houses which are main- 0s ig a constant room temperature in the tie ae only internal heat necessary to main- chase a temperatures can be provided by an eae ight bulb. Correct temperature control tained by means of electric themostats. me hesie. small electric switches which auto- che a turns on and off with temperature tain ve uch switches may be pre-set to a cer- Mperature and then as the temperature falls below a certain point the switch will close and the heater will be on, to remain so, until the critical temperature is reached at which time the switch will open and the heater will go off. Wafer thermostats are used in electric chicken brooders while a larger type is employed for the temperature control of buildings. Either are usually available through a dealer of electric appliances or accessories. By the proper adjustment of the. space be- tween the doors of the cabinet correct ventila- tion may be obtained. In some instances when the Wardian cases are especially constructed the top as well as the front of the casé is hinged thereby providing easy access to the interior and an adequate means for ventilation. In other boxes it is found advisable to drill holes along the top and bottom of the side section to pro- vide a continual and easily regulated source for ventilation. As with a large glass house ventilation is a serious consideration and must be well regu- lated to assure a free movement of air and pro- hibit the formation of dew and drip at the same time provide against the case becoming dry. Humidity of the Wardian case is dependent upon a number of factors relative to other prob- lems such as temperature and ventilation con- trol. When electric heating elements are utilized there is a tendency for the cabinet to become excessively dry and threfore a pan of water or some absorbant material such as abestos should be placed near the heat source so that water will be evaporated when the heat is on. To main- tain a correct over all humidity in the case crushed rock and other absorbent material may be placed at the bottom of the cabinet, and kept moist through appropriate application of water. By careful observation of the results obtained with various techniques and methods apartment dwellers are able to determine the right procedure for their particular case and often attain fine results and produce some won- derful flowers. The control of the amount of light is of course dependent upon the choice of the loca- tion of the case and its aspect relative to win- dows and the sun. If the case is exposed to direct sunlight it will be necessary to shade it during a portion of the day. Whereas if the case is removed from a window and placed farther inside a room it will be necessary to keep the window unshaded all the time. Page 48 In choosing the type of species which one desires to grow in a Wardian case, it is neces- sary to consider the same factors which limits and influences the choice of plants for large hot houses. It is possible to have warm, medium and cool Wardian cases as it is to have warm, inter- mediate and cool hot houses. Therefore the choice depends a great deal upon those an indi- vidual wants to grow as well as those which grow well together. A further consideration is the limiting size of the case. Often a specimen plant is desired of some particular large specie and if it were placed in the case there would be little room for other plants. It is decidedly the best policy to grow smaller plants and thereby maintain a larger collection, AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 It is common to find that in a Wardian case there will be a number of Cattleya species asso- ciated with Oncidiums, Calanthe, Coelogyne, Dendrobiums, Laelia, and occasionally Vanda, Phajus, Lycaste and Epidendrum. Naturally there is a predominance of Cattleya species, for the flowers are so fine and the pleasure of their flowering and the possibility of their use flor- ally adequately repays the effort expended in their culture and care. Recently considerable interest has been developd in the propagation of orchids from seeds by means of the culture technique and it is not uncommon to encounter a number of flasks and seedling pots in a War- dian Case. More Heat for Cattleyas R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vie. @ Over the last few weeks I have been ponder- ing on the provision of sufficient heat for my Cattleyas. There should be ample, but during the winter on a particularly frosty night the temperature occasionally drops as low as 45 deg., while it frequently gets as low as 50 deg. Also, I have been pondering on the cause of dead “eyes” on the back bulbs of Cattleyas and some- times on the leading bulb. I have quite a few of these dead “eyes” myself, but at a famous col- lection in Melbourne the heat was off during most of one winter and the condition of prob- ably the finest collection of Cattleyas in Aus- tralia was simply appalling, and they will take many years to recover. At first we thought that the “eyes” must have been burnt by too fre- quent or too strong a mixture of spray. The heating system was repaired, and now, two yars later, the plants have made a partial recovery. Similarly, I have lost a number of “eyes” and have been puzzled at the cause, some growers suggesting slugs or slaters or scale under the sheath covering the “eye.” Watching progress over a period, I am confident that this loss of “eyes” is due to the winter cold. I have noticed that the “eye” turns a dark brown colour but still retains its shape. This immediately rules out the slug or slater, for it would have to eat the outer covering with the “eye.” After a few months the outside covering will decay, and one is then left with a dark hollow cavity at the base of the bulb. Fortunately with me it has not yet assumed sufficient dimensions to be really serious, but I haye little doubt that many plants would have double, treble, or even quad- ruple leads, were it not for this fault. I am certain that it is nothing more or less than chill, for one cannot go past the evidence of the other collection which never had a dead “eye” before the heat failed in the winter. This collection is situated near the top of Mount Dan- denong where they would get much more frost than I do in Melbourne; hence their loss being so much greater than my own. On the contrary, growers with ample heat who also grow Cattle- yas never experience this dead “‘eye”’ trouble. I have determined to give my Cattleyas much more heat this winter and watch results. To do this I have the alternative of more and larger pipes or the saving of heat losses. I know that glass is almost a complete conductor of heat, and the idea came to me to partly insulate my glass in the winter and save heat, thus holding the desired temperature, rather than add more piping and use more fuel which is a perpetual cost. The insulation factor of glass is 1, while that of wool is .4. Thus, complete insulation of the glass with wool would save 60 per cent. of the heat losses through the glass, and since the heat loss through the concrete wall is not serious, I am confident that my experiment will be a suc- cess. With glass houses we use blinds to shade them during hot days in the summer. Why should we not use another set to insulate at night in the winter. I referred the matter to a well-known Melbourne engineer who specialises in this sub- ject, and he says it is sure to be a complete suc- cess if I make sure that the wind does not blow under the blinds, and a partial success if it does, so here goes. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 ier yi make blinds from reject blanketing, mee cover one side with reject waterproofed malt the blanketing being on the glass side =a i canvas outside to turn the rain, for wet 01 has only the same insulation value as glass. Bs blinds will roll up and down in the same arene the summer ones, but will be under- me them. On each side of the roof and at the i = I will fit angle irons so that when the : ind is down the blanket will rest snugly in e Wind, amd think that the result willl be too ea eat, but it will require only a little ex- Aras to learn just how far to lower the blinds arta ing to the weather. For example, on an Sieahie winter's night they may be only down ae ird, on a cold night two-thirds, and a al y night right down. They will not be low- i until after sunset, and will be raised very n after sunrise. I, : : ’ oe sure that readers will be interested in the ae t of the experiment, for in the warmer cli- ates further north it may mean fitting blanket Inds instead of heat. eoasendum: 16th April. Yesterday, the blan- re ae blinds were fitted. The night before Spite minimum temperature was §2 deg. in ‘ a a fair fire; last night was much colder, sects were in the same position, but the 1 mcr down and the fire deliberately left or. Pay ice of this the minimum temperature aie eg., and at 8 o’clock this morning the tae was comfortably warm. Thus the experi- ene 's an undoubted success and might indi- E as of great value to the large num- heat, ¢ §rowers who have glass but no applied cepa a by using this devise much of the gen- é €at from the previous day could be saved t that night. re I Sita WS Tae sata ATO ee A j Sents for the Australian Orchid Review” in Great Britain M ®ssrs. B. F. Stevens & Brown Limited, New Ruskin House, 28-30 Little Russell Street, LONDON, W.C.1, a numbing stocks of current and back Otte of the “Australian Orchid cone Readers in Great Britain should Icate with them regarding their supplies. angle iron without interference from the. Page 49 @ “The Charm of Growing Orchids,” by P. A. Gilbert.—‘The Charm of Growing Orchids” is a book all Orchid growers should possess. It covers the culture of Orchids from the Australian standpoint in a volume of 230 pages, well illustrated, and bound in full cloth. The author is particularly competent to write on the subject, as he has been growing orchids suc- cessfully for over 30 years. Until recently he was honorary editor of the “Australian Orchid Review” and in addition has contributed many articles on Orchid culture to the “Garden Lover.” His book covers the general manage- ment of Orchids with reference to the various groups and to miscellaneous types, vegetative propagation, seasonal control, flowering, exhib- itions, and societies. It is especially valuable to those who are just taking up Orchid culture. @ Readers of the A.O.R. who are not already members should make application for admis- sion to their local Society. Literature, lectures, and beautiful exhibits at monthly meetings. An Appeal R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vic.. @ How many of our readers realise the effort necessary to the comparative few who subscribe to the pages of the Journal. As the years roll by it becomes increasingly difficult to find a suit- able subject matter for an article. I am confid- ent that among the large number growing Or- chids in Australia, there is much latent journal- istic ability being wasted, and I appeal for effort in this direction. Surely some of our readers must at times have an inspiration as to the sub- ject matter of an article. When that inspira- tion does happen td come, don’t let it just pass out of existence. Pick up your pencil and en- large upon it, then read it over a few times, and if satisfied, send it to the Editor. If worthy, he will publish it. If he does not publish it, the effort is not wasted, for you have gained valu- able experience in expression, and try again. We desire to build up the size of the Review, and must enlarge our list of contributors. If you feel that you are not sufficiently cap- able of expression, please write to the Editor indicating any subject matter which you may desire to have enlarged upon in the Journal. All our present writers are only too anxious to serve, but if we are to serve, you must help us by in- dicating just what you desire to read in the Jour- nal, which, after all is said and done, is your Journal, for it could not exist without your support. Page 50 : AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 NOW READY | A Cultural Table of Orehidaceous Plants by J. MURRAY COX This is one of the most ambitious works on Orchid Culture ever published; no book of this description has been produced anywhere since 1932. It is long overdue. The information contained in its 400 odd pages is right up to. the minute, and there are nearly 80 illustrations, 13 of them in full colour. The Table is comprehensive, embracing most genera and species known in a world-wide range of Orchids. Orchids are described and information given as to origin, natural conditions and the most suc- E cessful method of cultivation. : : There is a complete index which includes the correct botanical i nomenclature as well as synonyms, so that, where Orchids are known : by their popularly used names, they can be easily traced and referred : to in the text. In addition, there is a useful glossary of botanical terms. The Table, in fact, might aptly be regarded as an encyclopaedia of orchids which should be in the library of every Orchid lover. Price per copy: 4 guineas. As only a limited number of copies has been printed, subscribers should secure their book now. Lip iG Published by THE SHEPHERD PRESS =4y YURONG STREET, SYDNEY B N.S.W., AUSTRALIA Sceveucuuocoveceecaonvoseansucatoccetseacacoceecensuainecesecscnneeeeennsenceeen ee cee eee eee SUUSY CLAY USUU TEL EV TYAS AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 51 The Significance of Awarded and Named Varieties of Orchids The mere fact that someone has put a second name on an Orchid may or may not mean anything. It all depends on when the variety was named, why it was named and who named it. Awarded varieties may be valuable or worthless, €pending on the date of the award and the reputation of the organization responsible for making the award. Without making any representations whatsoever as to their value, we are listing below some famous named and awarded varieties in the Rivermont collection. Additional lists will appear in forthcoming issues. At present we ave no duplicates of these plants for sale. e have many plants at Rivermont that have not been exhibited, and have not been given a second name which excel all or nearly all of the awarded and named varieties listed. CATTLEYAS AND ALLIED GENERA (Ch, Nina, var. Rivermont; C. Fulvescens, Westonbirt var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Innocence, var. Seri tes C. Trianae, var. Grand Monarch; C. Snowmaiden, var. Everest; C. Loddigesii alba, tanley's var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Dinah, A.M., R.H.S.; C. Solario, var. Empress; C. Edithae, Boe White Empress, F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Lady Veitch, var. Rivermont; C. Lorna, var. magnifica; Mh Mrs. R. Paterson, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Blc. Capella, var. aurensis; Ble. Daffora, var. Ceres; Blc. Aprica, var, Moonbeam; Lc. Wiloden, var. perfecta; Lc. St. Gothard, A.M.; Ble. Xanthea, var. Aureo-grandis: Lc. Sunburn, var. Soleil d'Or; Ble. Nigeria, A.M., R.H.S.; Le. Babylon, var. "imson Flame; Lc. Guinevere, var. grandiflora; Lc. Orange Beauty, var. Apollo; Lc. Snowdrift, Ce Empress, A.M., R.H.S.; Blc. Beatrice, var. Regina; Ble. Orange Glory, var. Rosalind; Slc. ®0patra, A.M., R.H.S. ws CY MBIDIUMS Cym. Flamingo, var. nobilior, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Carmen, var. Rose Queen; Cym. Jungfrau, var. Enchantress; Cym. Alexanderi, var. album, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Delvsia, var. Red. Queen; Ym. Goosander, var. exquisitum, A.M., M.O.S.; Cym. Gottianum, Westonbirt, var., A.M., T1.3.i Cym. Jason, var. Golden Beauty. ; CYPRIPEDIUMS pyP: Golden Gleam, var. Orebus; Cyp. Balaclava, var. Grand Vizier; Cyp. Charmaine, Weston- Mey var., A.M., R.H.S.; Cyp. Leonora, var. Amaranth, A.M., R.H.S.; Cyp. Peridot, var. Eau ti Cyp. Eventide, var. Marvel. i ales year we shall advertise the finest selection of seedlings and adult plants at we have yet been able to offer our customers. Inquiries should reach us any time after March |. We understand that regulations will not permit us to ship plants to Australia at this time. a ; advertisement, which is a duplicate of advertisements appearing in the American Orchid ety Bulletin and other Orchid publications, is reproduced here just to remind our Australian rehid &rowing friends that we are still doing business and growing seedlings. CLINT McDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE, U.S.A. CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE* JOHN LINES *Now serving in the Armed Forces Page 52 | SHOWY INDIAN ORCHIDS Lowest Retail and Wholesale Lists on Orchids and Bulbs on request. POST FREE OFFERS 25 Different Showy Orchids occ 50/- 50 = 4 s : 100/- 12 Selected Dendrobiums .... 30/- 12 Gymbidiumsteesseressctestecst 40/- Cypripedium Fairieanum, per 100 ...... £13/10/- Vanda Teres, per 100 es 5/410 / Lilium Wallichianum, per 100 ..........0. £5/10/- GLADIOLUS—best Australian. Giant Flowering Mixed, first-sized corms, per 100, £2; per 1000, £15. Cormlpts, £5 per 10,000. Picardy, per 1000 £20. Postage extra. THE GARDEN SERVICE 8} Mile, KALIMPONG,- Dist.: DARJEELING (INDIA) BOOKS ORCHID CULTURE IN CEYLON. Edited by Soysa, 1943, coloured plates, etc. This delightful book is of interest to Orchid Growers, dealing with hybridization, diseases and pests, fragrance, etc. Orchids dealt with can be grown in Victoria and New South Wales, £2/15/- VICTORIAN ORCHIDS (Dickens), 2/6, post, 2d. THE ORCHIDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES (Rupp), 9/-, post 4d., soft cover edition, 6/-. AN INTRO- DUCTION TO THE STUDY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ORCHIDS (Rogers), 1/6, post, 3d. Stocks of second-hand works on Orchids, Natural History, Early Aust., Art, Collecting, etc. Catalogue on application. Also available, special list of new Gardening Books N. H. SEWARD PTY. LTD. 457c¢ BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE, C.1. Notice to Advertisers All enquiries as to Advertising space should be addressed to the publishers: AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW SHEPHERD & NEWMAN PTY. LTD. YURONG STREET, SYDNEY AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 INDIAN ORCHIDS Cypripedium Insigne from £19 to £22, Vanda Coertlach deeper blue, from £18 to £20 per 100 large plants, post paid. For Amateurs— Special collections, consisting of only showy varieties for £2, £3, and £6. Post paid. Apply for Wholesale Trade List. INDIAN ORCHID NURSERY PAKYONG, SIKKIM, INDIA EAST INDIAN ORCHIDS We can furnish at present Cypripedium Insigne and Vanda Coerulea of special types which have found ap- preciation the world over for the quality of their flowers. Catalogue (pre-war) and attractive trade list airmailed for 3/- stamps. We consider exchange. Collection of 36 Orchids for £5. Post paid. THE STANDARD NURSERY (Regd.) PAKYONG, SIKKIM, (AOR) INDIA WANTED CYMBIDIUM BACK BULBS ' in variety, with strong dormant eyes, or made-up leaved bulbs—10 or 100. List names and color with price. ALSO BOOKS ON ORCHIDS Give Author, Title, Date, Condition, Price GREENOAKS 2545W. 5th St., Los Angeles 5, Calif. BOOKS ON ORCHIDS Cacti and other Succulent plants, new and used. Also other Botanical books. Send for catalog. Payments handled locally. ""BOOK-MARK" 825 Elyria Drive, Los Angeles, 31, Calif., U.S.A. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 The Orehid Society of N.S.W. Meets every month on the last Thursday in Royal Empire Society Hall, 3rd Floor, 17 Bligh Street, Sydney, at 8 p.m. Visitors welcomed. Patron: President: Hon. Secretary: jupen ts Honour E. A. HAMILTON B. JESSOP Kpoveneta ieee 16 Hercules St. 18 Hercules St. WARRAWEE, N.S.W. CHATSWOOD, N.S.W. CHATSWOOD, N.S.W. Hon, Treasurer: Hon. Asst. Treasurer: Hon. Editor: JOHN BISSET W. FAHEY W. WORTH ne Wareemba ‘Street, 1 Woolcott Street 4 Ward Street BBOTSFORD, N.S.W. WAVERTON, N.S.W. WILLOUGHBY, N.S.W. Phone WA1124 *Phone XB3795 Phone: JA1533 The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow: THURSDAY, JUNE 27th THURSDAY, JULY 25th AUGUST 29th The Queensland Orchid Society Patron: His Excellency, Col. the Rt. HON. SIR LESLIE ORME WILSON, P.C., G.C.S.L, G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., D.S.O, LT Hon. Secretary: d Hon. Treasurer: E. J. BEARD T. C, HARVEYSON _J. LEWIS *81 Queen St. G.P.O. Box 2002 X Ghee ane BEREAN BRISBANE BRISBANE FRID The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow:— AY, JUNE 14th FRIDAY, JULY 12th | FRIDAY, AUGUST 9th "eh Place: Miniature Rifle Range Building, Boundary Street, Brisbane. eetings held on the Second Friday of each month. Visitors are welcome. The Victorian Orchid Club pace on the third Monday in each month (January excepted), in the Indepen- nt Church Hall, Collins Street, Melbourne, at 8 p.m. Prospective members welcome. MON The dates of the next meetings of the Club are as follow: DAY, JUNE 24th MONDAY, JULY 15th MONDAY, AUG. 19th President: Vice-President: Hon. Secretary: - R. VICK B. R. HODGINS G. E. FLOYD ei Northcote Avee., 547 Moreland Road, 25 Grandview Road NTERBURY, 7A, © ESSENDON, W.5. BRIGHTON, S.5. Phone WE2365 Phone FUS5270 "Phone, X4996 Hon. Treasurer: A. C. DREDGE, 169 Cochrane Street, Elsternwick, S.4. Wholly Set up, W. Worth, Hon. Editor. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 More about Awarded and Named Varieties of Orehids Our correspondence reveals that the manner'in which orchids are named is somewhat confusing to beginners. Most beginners have already grown iris, day lilies, roses, or some other kind of plants, and when a plant has a name, that name usually distinguishes it from all other plants. This is not true as far as orchids are concerned. All of the seedlings which come out of a seed pod are given the same name, and other growers who make a cross with parents of the same name must use the original name. Even in primary crosses there can be a great difference in the color and appearance of orchids of the same name. In the third and fourth generations they are sometimes so differ- ent in appearance that the most expert person would find no resemblance between two plants bearing the Same name. Threfore, in order to positively identify a certain plant, this plant must be given a second name. Generally speaking, experienced growers add second names only to their finest var- ieties. In buying a plant with a second name it is important to know who named it and when it was named. By the same token, in buying awarded varieties, it is important to know when the award was made and by what organization. Without making any representations as to their value, we are listing here several well known named and awarded varieties in the Rivermont collection. We have many plants at River- mont that have not been exhibited and have not been given a second nam which excel all or nearly all of the awarded and named varieties listed. List Number 2 CATTLEYAS AND ALLIED GENERA C. Royal Purple, A.M.; C. Wembley, var. Superba; C. Frolic, var. Plumosa; C. Lorna, var. Corona, A.M.; C. Edithae, var. Everest; C. Fabia, var. Red Admiral; C. Trianae, car. Princess Mary; C. Trianae alba, Verdonck's var.; C. Everest, var. superbissima; C. gigas, var. Firmin - Lambeau; C. Belgica, var. Flambeau; Lc. Berenice, var. Purple Queen; Lc. Elinor, A.M., R.H.S.; Le. Hassallii alba, Cowan's var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; Le. Queen Mary, var. gloriosa, F.C.C., M.O.S.; Le. Adonis, var. gloriosa; Ble. Caligula, var. Magnifica, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Bc. Xanthedo, var. Rex; Bc. Olna, var. White Queen; Le. Anubis, var. Meteor; Slc. Soulange, var. Shelia; Lc. Cassandra, var. majestic; Lc. Coquette, var. fascination; Blc. Galatea, var. Empress; Bc. Prin- cess Patricia, var. Falstaff; Lc. Eunice alba, var. Constance, A.M., R.H.S. CYMBIDIUMS Cym. Nefertiti, var. White Wings; Cym. Parnassus, var. Cloth of Gold; Cym. Pearl, var. mag- nificum, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Phryne, var. Flamingo, A.M., R.H.S.; Cym. Thelma, A.M., R.H.S.; Cym. Thora, var Empress, A.M., R.H.S.; Cym. Sunrise, var. Ruby; Cym. Alexanderi Westonbirt, 'F.C.C., R.H.S. CYPRIPEDIUMS Cyp. Lady Oliver, var. Angela; Cyp. General Wavel, var. Magna; Cyp. Audrey King, var. St. Albans; Cyp. Blenheim, var. magnificum; Cyp. Chrysostom, var. Richard Fort, F.C.C., Cyp. Ambition, Exbury var.; Cyp. Robert Patterson, var. Westminster. At present we have no duplicates of the above listed plants for sale. This year we are adver- tising a wider selection of seedlings and adult plants than we have yet been able to offer our customers heretofore. CLINT MeDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE* - JOHN LINES *Now serving in the Armed Forces : . . 4) 1946 \S WW Wea Ly Lissa dbs CML: Af CAM i hy “wetssittiily Le ddd CL Kgs tilde LE —Y Le Uy N NN NN N N N N N N N N N N NS N N N S N N N N ‘ & SS Wor Vtdddatddddtinir Hid dheedeee ISSUE SEPT. ished Quarterly Publ No. 3 Vol. THE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE ORCHID SOCIETY OF NEW SOUTH WALES (INCORPORATING THE NEWCASTLE ORCHID CIRCLE), THE QUEENSLAND ORCHID SOCIETY AND THE VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB. ae Page- ii AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 ¢. H. DEANE’S | Annual Orehid Exhibition Will be held, as in previous years, in 4 i ; H : ANTHONY HORDERNS’ FINE ART GALLERY on SEPTEMBER 25th, 26th, and 27th 3 i i i : : H 1 H H C. H. DEANE Girrahween Nurseries 190 WOLLONGONG RD. ARNCLIFFE SYDNEY, N.S.W. - TEL. LX1106 In Advertisin aks ola the element of time is one to be reckoned with—as it has important underlying effects, particularly on the volume of future business. Efficient process engraving is an effective ally when up against ''time.' Turning to the fine art studios at 89 William Street, you SN WW AS are sure of RESULTS not EXCUSES in the TN! : hour of urgency. AV. Vise A free enterprise, not process engraving as a sideline, a progressive organisation noted for the consistent quality of its work—maintained by PHOTO-ENGRAVING ART COMPANY PROPRIETARY LIMITED 8 9 wm oO kkdIA Sealy GROVE) SE eel: Meat Sy, s¥2 IDE INSZES AY: On Time and in Step with Advertising GRAND ORCHID EXHIBITION in aid of the Rachael Forster Hospital by JOHN: BISSETT in MARK FOY'S EMPRESS ROOMS on » TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY, THURSDAY, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th £300 in Prizes and Cups — Admission Free — For full particulars ring ; (Evenings) JA8906 VON BISSETT wuascey Phone watizs Read “The Charm of Growing Orchids,’ by P. A. Gilbert—Price 21/- (post 1/-) AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW Volume Il | SEPTEMBER, 1946 The author of each article is responsible for the facts and opinions expressed therein. CONTENTS ¥ PERE Page Award Judging—N.S.W. __...... sere Pamhed Sih va te oy oes 64 Cultural Notes for Queensland Gin ae Pe CesT se ec ia ne ee eee 72 Cypripediums of 1946 ee sce seat Pe mle heroes 56 and 76 INOCesaetOGaEIN OV 1CcS inn EERE es iit A EIU ners yi to aimny TE cots 55 ‘Orchidsaetorn beginners ieee ry — MT Te ees gets edie 61 Quiz Corner ee mts A ported Pate Tiss, got Saath) bn ‘oa 57 Tan Bark nis a ‘hos at) is Re cd see Ne ae 58 T. H. James retires ine wi Drone siaagyecerae BAT po te 68 TwomN ews OrchidsstrommWeAteem | psd eos is? Once ial Pos ae 70 Vegetative propogation by the use of bottom heat 9m. 0 ee wee ee 74 Veteran grower «©... rs ee “y a Fa. cab eae 54 Victorian Cultural Notes Bee i a er er 59 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS Coelogyne Massangeana wn. nnn Aiea iy ari pedi iain eee eeaoara 77 Dendrobium Speciosum - ae ofa ies si eles. fy. a 65 “Greenhood” Pterostylis Obtusa © enn sacs Jeon ap ee Valet Dw Linc 67 Vee ees | ee Beat ieee Tee hag U8, TG Mee EEE ge Sart oe MET AOR aco 54 MonadeniameAustralicnsismye at ae moe 9 ote ae tinct Maeanmert: UNnNN ou uem Wee ea AY T. H. James, Esq. ee aaa oe ty. Pee wei Rote aoe 68 Wirdbieettves Chey a so =, Pee ees vA UniquesOrchidiaGardena ge, Mees ieeliwete. dc NGia brace ete aera cet re 73 Subscription Rates: Australia and New Zealand, 6/- per annum; Overseas, 6/- sterling per “annum. Post free. Payable to Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney. CARE YOUR ORCHIDS with PESTOXOL. (LIQUID) “PESTOXOL" js specially suited for the treatment of Orchids and has been proven by actual . tests in the bush-house and green-house. iene é PESTOXOL" destroys Scale, Thrips, Red Spider, Green and Black Fly, Mealy Bug, Caterpillar, Blight, etc., and is perfectly safe in use not only on Orchids, but on Ferns and tender green- ‘ Ouse plants. - 10oz. Bottles ....... 2/6 each. 4 gallon Jars ........ 16/6 each k All Orchid Dealers and Seedsmen : 98 Castlereagh Street F. H. FAULDING & CO. LTD. REDFERN PARK, SYDNEY and Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Brisbane, and London (Eng.) » Page 54 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Veteran Grower Founded Queensland Orchid Society @ Mr. E. J. Beard, life member by honour of the Queensland Orchid Society, was unanimously elected President of the Society at the Thirteenth Annual Meeting. Thus the founder of the Society, and first president has again been honoured by being the first to be voted to the presidential chair for the second time. His work for the Society has included many years as a member, and for the past four years he has acted as honourary treasurer. Mr. Beard, who is in his eightieth year, started collecting Orchids at the age of sixteen, and built his first bush house in 1890. He formed the original Queensland Orchid Society in 1900, and was the first president. The Society func- tioned until 1905 and then lapsed until 1933 when it was reformed by Mr. Beard with a membership of thirty which has since grown to upwards of two hundred members. Born at Fortitude Valley, Brisbane, in 1867, Mr. Beard went to the Upper Coomera district at the age of 11 and there developed an interest in wild flowers and native Orchids, which laid the foundation of a hobby that has resulted in many friendships, and one of the most interest- ing Orchid collections in Australia. Through correspondence, and by personal visits, growers from Englend, Java, Malaya, Borneo, New Guinea, North Queensland, Mexico and America have shared their interests with Mr. Beard. At his home in Perrott Street, Paddington, overlooking the city of Brisbane, the terraced garden has picked sites devoted to Orchid cul- ture by the provisions of bush house, cool house, and hot house, while many specimens, particu- larly vandas, cymbidiums, and epidendrums, are grown in the open garden. In fact, it is main- tained that two of these latter (O’Brienianum and Boundii) which flourish abundantly in Brisbane result from two plants grown by Mr. Beard. Although a mathematician of note, “EJ.” admits that he has “lost count’ of the numbers of the various species and plants in his collection. A visit to England with Mrs. Beard in 1913 presented an opportunity for studying several famous Orchid collections, and, sealed friend- ships which have resulted in much of interest, both for himself and members of the Queens- land Orchid Society. At the present time, Mr. Beard has on order for the Society two hundred and fifty Cattleya hybrids, the last consign- , Mr. E. J. BEARD, with plant of B.L.C. Lady Stevenson. B.L.C. Janet x C. Mossiae Alba in flower. Photo. Telegraph, Brisbane. ment of which was received from England in 1938. Much American interest in Mr. Beard’s collection was awakened by a film taken several years ago, illustrating the methods and results of this most energetic grower, who employs no labour in tending what is only one of his many hobbies. When his business takes him away from home for a time, Mrs. Beard, who shares his enthusiasm, attends to the watering as per instructions. Seme idea of the remarkable stamina enjoyed by this veteran enthusiast may be gained by considering not only the work involved by his love of Orchids, but that he remains “in harness” in the city, not even requiring spectacles for any occasion, his excellent sight and penman- ship placing him as one of the few, young or old, who can write The Lord’s Prayer twice on a “threepenny bit.” Mr. Beard’s other interests have been and still AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 55 Notes for Novices T. H. JAMES, Hazelbrook, N.S.W. © No doubt there are very many who, like Myself, welcome the passing of winter and the attival of spring. To me there is always some- thing inspiring in watching the gradual resurg- nce of new life in the plants in _ spring Particularly in our own special hobby—Orchids. With all the specialised groups of plants that are now being cultivated, even such glass house Subjects as Ferns, Begonias, etc., there are general tules for successful culture, but no such rules Can be set down for Orchids and therein lies ae the factors which makes them such a asCinating subject. The knowledge of handi- aps to be surmounted such as the great variety " natural growing conditions, the effect on abits of the intense hybridisation, which necessi- tates the Orchids being treated as individuals, the general need to provide a single house for these diverse types give a zest to Orchid growing Which js singular. © the novice who essays to try his or her and at genera other than Cymbidiums the andicaps will soon appear, but there is always the knowledge of experienced growers in the Various Orchid Societies and the pages of this Journal at your disposal, so do not hesitate to Seek assistance if in doubt. As far as Cymbidiums and Cypriepediums are Concerned most of the repotting will or should ave been completed ere this. If not, get it done quickly, Delay would mean a late start with new growth and consequently insufficient time °r new bulbs to mature and produce flowers. hey will not require watering every day. Spray the foliage every evening. I wonder how many took my suggestion to prepare composts ahead. re Light.—September is too early to worry Yermuch about shading, but towards the end of the month it will need attention. I do not know Rage many use blinds these days, but in cases they will need to be brought into use SS ‘re numerous. His sporting activities have in- cluded Amateur Athletics, Cycling, Football, Cricket and to-day, Bowls. He was Foundation ember and served on the first committees of € following, and of which he is now a life mMember:—The Queensland Rugby Union, 4eensland Umpires Association and the Ueensland Cricket Association of which he was 2 Cretary for twenty-five years. He is also rheitled to wear the Life Membership Badge of © Brisbane Cricket Ground. again. Personally I do not like them as shading in summer, but they would be useful on cold winter nights to retard loss of warmth. Apart from blinds I would again suggest the spray pump. Make a thin paste of lime and water, pass through a fine sieve and add about half a pint of raw linseed oil to two gallons of mixture. Apply it on a calm day. Ventilation.—All ventilators may now be opened except on the windy side should cold winds develop, as is not unlikely, during Sep- tember or hot winds in late October and November. : Watering.—General—New growth will be commencing now and watering will also have to commence, at first sparingly until October and then it should be given copiously. In September water plants on sunny mornings only, but floors and benches every day except when raining. Also water very sparingly plants that may be still dormant. Both in glass house and bush house the aim should be to increase humidity. From October on water in the evening and over foliage as well as in the morning. Damp floors and benches as often as possible. Cattleyas.—Under cool house treatment new growth is generally later than in heated houses and September will be early enough to repot where necessary. I believe they should be re- potted at least every three years. After that period the best of composts break down. Being confined in vessels the roots have to put up with what they are being grown in instead of having, as in nature, the ability to roam where ere they wish. As their roots, in nature, are mainly exposed to the light and air, it will be understood that confinement in a damp decaying compost is not healthy. A Cattleya which was exhibited at a recent meeting of the Orchid Society of New South Wales reminded me of a sad personal experience. When living at Longueville I had a number of Cattleyas which were growing and flowering luxuriently. An Orchid friend who visited me on one occasion on being informed that some had been in the same vessels for about 7 years, urged repotting. As they were doing so well. I thought otherwise. The following winter was wet and cold and to my dismay I noticed the bulbs shrivelling badly and then found that the compost had broken down into soil and practically all roots were dead. The exhibit mentinoed above was in the same con- dition as mine before they collapsed and I Page 56 noticed that the compost was practically all soil. I gave him the advice given to me, but it was not appreciated, in fact, I believe it was resented. I trust his plants have not suffered. As in the past I advise no moss or other matter that would retain moisture over long in the compost. Repotting is generally done immediately root action is noticed, but it should not be delayed much after September. There are two aspects of repotting according to whether it is desired to build up specimens or to increase the number of individual plants. If specimens are required, place in larger pot after removing all dead roots and old compost. Sever the rhizome between the third and fourth bulbs from front and leave.undisturbed. This cutting should be done every year to plants not requiring repotting. Water sparingly for two weeks after repotting. In October top with live moss, but do not allow it to become too luxurient and keep it away from the base of bulbs. When repotting, drainage should occupy about one third of the . pot and compost should be to the top or even a little higher in centre, Rhizomes should not be below the top of pot. Generally pots are more suitable than baskets. See that plants are very firmly staked. Dendrobiums.—These require high humidity during spring and summer, so top with live moss and water copiously morning and evening. Water overhead. Composts for Cattleyas and Dendrobiums—black Todea fibre, tan bark from which fine portion has been sifted or Polypodium or mixtures of these. Dendrobiums do not like overpotting. In the last issue I referred to Den. Wardianum which I consider the most beautiful of all. This is particularly a bush house subject. It requires abundance of water during spring and summer, that is, keep the pots saturated and provide all light possible short of direct sunlight. There are.a number of easily grown attractive Den- drobiums in the yellow shades such as Den. densiflorum and Den. thrysiflorum which resemble sprays of gold or gold and cream Wistaria and Den. chrysotoxum. They have a weakness, however, in being short lived; a week to ten days, but still worth while. For those who have heated houses there is a particularly fine species, D..Formosum giganteum, a large white flower of excellent form. ' Thunias will now be moving. Cut away old dead bulbs and roots and repot in a rich, light mixture, but do not pack hard. Stake well and water very sparingly until new growths are about two inches high. Then water very freely. Grow in full sunshine. . AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Cypripediums WALLY FAHEY, Waverton, N.S.W. @ We are now in September and most of our Cypripediums have finished flowering, only a few of the very late ones would be in flower now. It has ben a great season for Cypripediums. When you think back on our Cypripediums Show in July you must admit the Cypripedium is becoming very popular. We find more are growing them and the quality ‘of the flowers seem to be improving all the time. At our monthly meetings too, starting from June right up to now we have seen some wonderful flowers. I hope you have attended to your plants that have already flowered, and cleaned them up and repotted them correctly for you have the grow- ing season ahead and you need to take every advantage to have the plants all set and happy for the Summer months, It is important that Cypipediums that have flowered should be repotted by this month, if not you will miss the best of the growing season, which is essential to get the best out of Cypripediums. When repotted, plants should be sprayed with water on leaves only and placed on the shaded side of the house for a couple of weeks. From September onwards as the weather gets warmer you can increase the watering, especially plants potted in tan bark alone which would stand watering twice a day during the summer months. You will have noticed during the season plants growing in many mixtures, tan bark, fibre and bark, leaf mould and coarse sand, black fibre and moss, all seem to have served well, but what- ever compost you decide upon, you will have to control the watering to suit each type of compost and drainage. The plants should have more shading during the summer months than they have had in the winter and more ventilation, damping down of the floor of your house will help to give the conditions these plants like during the Summer. I had the pleasure of visiting a few of the Newcastle collections of Cypripediums during the flowering season and must say I saw some fine blooms and plants grown very well in different composts. So after all it probably does not matter much what compost is used, the main items are:—Clean fresh material, good drainage and ventilation, correct watering which will also ensure a humid atmosphere, and shading. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 57 The Quiz Corner Conducted by Dr. 0. R. KIDD © Ouestion—I have noticed small round white scales on the leaves of my Cattleyas. These I have found hard to get rid of especially as they are sunk into a little depression on the leaves. Also I have noticed scale around the eyes of the Plant when the papery sheath is stripped off. Is this the same scale? Can you tell me an effect- Ive means to get ‘rid of this pest? __ Answer—The two scales you mention are identical. On the leaves they are solitary and the destruction they produce is local and the Underlaying tissues shrink, hence the depression In the leaf, In more confined and protected areas such as the cleft at the leaf base where the sheath arises and its stump is left the scale clusters into dense Colonies and the destruction here is more at the main vital tissues and its effect is generally exhibited throughout the leaf rather than on a small local area of the leaf. Under the old Jeaf sheath the scale finds its Maximum protection and multiplies rapidly in Perfect security and often quite unnoticed until the poor health of the plant. calls for urgent Mvestigation. When this occurs at the rhizome Or the primary segment of the old leaf sheath then: the most tender part of the plant becomes ’n easy prey to the insidious ravages of this pest. Tf left untreated the eyes become destroyed and the future growth of the plant from last year’s ulb becomes impossible and the plant leads into new growth from some bulb other than the eading one if there is a viable eye. If there is 0 viable eye then the plant refuses to lead and ultimately dies, _ Ifyou see an isolated scale on the leaf be sure It ts. an, indication of other scale on the same Plant or adjacent plants and search most care- fully, for it. If you see a plant leading from any ulb other than the leading bulb look for scale °©.wet rot in the eyes of the leading bulb. Tfsyou see the leaf looking yellow, limp or wrinkled andi with a loss of its bright sheen, look Or'scale at thei base of the leaf and old flower Sheath, The cure does not. rest with simple spraying on Hi} ‘isolated occasion nor indeed on frequent ‘Praying unless the spray can actually contact the scale, Even then: doubt if a non-toxic spray 'S'effective on the adult scale. In my experience “here <is but one cure) | Irst strip every bulb and the rhizome between the bulbs of the thin papery sheath that envelops them after the bulb has become full grown. Its major purpose of protecting the soft young leaf has been served. Under our glass house con- ditions of culture it is useless and in fact a menace as no one can guarantee that all scale has been completely eliminated from their plants or some recent plant introduction has not pro- vided a new focus for reinfection that will gradually spread. Next, to a half a pint of water, add one desert- spoon of Albarol (a white water miscible oil) and one desertspoonfull of Pestoxol. Scrub’ the plants, leaf by leaf, bulb by bulb with a tooth- brush dipped in this solution and so mechanically remove most of the scale. Allow to dry and do not water for at least two days. From then on spray at no greater length than at ten day inter- vals at least three times. After this a spray once a month: or even two months (for Cattleyas) should be sufficient. As a spray’ use’ Pestoxol 10 ozs., Albarol 2 ozs. in one and a half gallons of water. . om a es OEY The same treatment applies to any plant and certainly any new plant before it is introduced into your glass house. _ Pa tics Cea It will also take care of the thrip, the other major pest in Orchid culture, Plants such as Cypripediums, Miltonas and allied species, require spraying at least once a month. Scale is spread by the natural migratory ‘habit of the infant pest and its dissemination is assisted by ants and other insects, Zygopetalum.—This is a gross feeder and makes much root. Would stand repotting every year. Cymbidium mixture would serve. Should be grown with Cymbidiums. Water freely. _ Phaius are also gross feeders and during spring and summer should be kept saturated. Repot in September in large vessels, well drained, in Cym- bidium mixture with extra old cow manure. In warm districts place among Cymbidiums, but elsewhere in cool glass house with good light. _ Lycaste.—Pot in Cymbidium mixture and grow among them. Water freely and provide all light possible except direct sunlight. The last four items and Cymbidiums should receive weak liquid manure about every two weeks, . j ed u EKG Dotadaeaeyn. Eaek the) - Be sure that all pots are well drained.-T. H. J. Page 58 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Tan Bark J. W. HORSLEY, Willoughby, N.S.W. @ Yan-Bark to-day is becoming a very necessary commodity with the grower of Orchids inAust- ralia and I think at this juncture we should understand what tan-bark is, and where it comes from. It really is the bark stripped from the Acacia (Mimosaceae). Men who go out to procure this bark are called strippers’ and thor- oughly understand the art of stripping a tree of 90 per cent. of its bark without killing the tree. One thing is predominent and of the utmost importance and it is this: the sap of the tree must be up, or the bark will be absolutely useless. When stripped the bark is thoroughly dried in preparation for the grinding mill. This rotary mill travelling at a very high speed is composed of a series of beaters which gives us the bark in small pieces just as the grower of Orchids needs it. It is at this stage full of tannic acid and ready for the tanner. The tanner who treats the bark places it in huge pits or vats and then covers it with water. In some cases hot water is used and in other cases cold water is preferable. The process of leaching has begun and the tannic acid is ex- tracted into the water. This process as a rule lasts for about a fortnight or three weeks in cold water, but is accomplished more quickly when hot water is used. _ The better class of bark usually called the Blackwattle yields as high as 40 per cent. tannic acid. I would like to mention at this point that I. believe that the bark leached in cold water would be more preferable for Orchids, having a greater acid content. Strangely enough the best class of bark comes from South Australia where it is cultivated and tended, Naturally this bark commands an ever ready sale and fetches more advanced prices. _ Some years ago the South African Govern- ment procured quantities of this seed and have now built a wonderful industry shipping thous- ands of tons back to Australia and to the different Countries of the World. As a tanner myself I would like to mention that yet another industry is slipping through our fingers. After leaching the bark it becomes to the Tanner a by-product of no further use to him. It is now ready for sale. There are some thirteen varieties of Acacia in Australia which are suitable for leather tanning. Of this number the Blackwattle (Binervata) is easily the best for tanning and I believe the best for Orchids owing to its nutty nature and acid content. Although only a novice myself in the growing of orchids I have tried tan bark in quite a number of ways. My greatest experience was with a Vanda Coerulea which was potted for me by a professional. I fussed about with it for about two years and to my chagrin I could see the plant gradually fading away. One day in desperation I pulled the plant from its pot throwing away the fibre. I filled the pot with tan-bark and deposited my Vanda in the pure bark saying to myself, “kill or cure.” To my amazement my seemingly dead plant started on a new lease of life. It threw out a new growth and then a new root as thick as a lead pencli and has never looked back. It is now firmly established and quite worth looking at. As I belong to a family who were among the earliest settlers in the Willoughby district and of the third generation distinctly interested in horticulture I have seen tan-bark used in a great many different ways and always most succzss- fully. I now honestly believe that in the growing of Orchids tan-bark will become the greatest compost yet found. The North Queensland Orchid Society @ The North Queensland Orchid Society was formed on 26th January, 1939. Approximately 10 members attended this meeting. Our present membership is over 60, Country and Town, annual subscription 5/- (probably increase some time next year). ; At meetings we have lectures, potting demon- strations, back-cutting Cattleyas, questions and answers, also basket picnics to the scrubs and rivers where town and country members meet. At these we collect Polypodium peat and Osmunda fibre. Today we purchased our second collection of Orchids, about 64 plants, mostly exotics, members will benefit by this purchase. We also subscribe to an Overseas Purchasing Fund, about £42 in hand to purchase Orchids when available. The members collections are built up of miscellaneous plants, Cattleyas, Vandas, Terete and semi-terete, cyps, and dend- robes, including large plants of D. Toftii, and about 12 plants of D. Phalaenopsis Alba, Phaius, Saccolabium, Phal. Amabilis and Schillerianum and others. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 59 Victorian Cultural Notes September, October, November KR. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vie. Once again we reach a period of much work after some months of full hearted enjoyment of the flowers of our Cymbidiums and Cypri- Pediums, During the first month of this petiod we will have many Cymbidiums still in flower, while only a few of the late Slippers will remain, Ut as compensation each week a few of our ‘pring flowering Cattleyas will open. Many of the best of this family flower in the spring. you are interested in growing seed you should not lose this opportunity to cross fertilise a few flowers. With the Cymbidiums, select the Owest flower on the stem and introduce the Pollen from the male parent to the stigmatic rurface of the column of the female parent. On’t waste your time making seed pods from moderates, If you have not two worthy parents Stain a flower from a friend. In fertilising a Ower try to theorise the probable result and ave a definite objective in mind. Avoid plants With faults such as short flower spikes, bunched mae TS or colour that is weak and drab. Twelve Raat os later you will get your seed, but you ay have made a cross last year and the seed May be ready to pick. If such is the case, sprinkle € seed round an established plant which will NOt require repotting, preferably the same genus. “ uring the flowering period you should have €n stock of your plants; you should have odes which to cull. Also, you aspire to Re ange a division of some of your best plants ith friends. Watch your plants carefully and “termine which to leave in their pots for another ts which to divide and which to pot on into arger pot. sho ur, Potting mixture for the various genera oe have been prepared some time ago. In eae it has ‘Not, lose no time in preparing suffic- Material as follows:— XPRIPEDIUMS: Part tan bark 1 part leaf mould _ Part red fibre (if 4 part mountain soil } pavailable) $ part fibrous loam CYMR Coarse sand A little broken charcoal BIDIUMS: ore paceene mixture with a little very old cow manure CATTLEYAS. added. B : Pure teased black fibre. oS Potting any Orchid soak the pot in Stirtas It 1s to go for a few minutes and let the plant sary out. The pot, by observation of the can 0 be grown in it, should leave room for ~~ 2 years’ growth when potted. Cymbidiums and Cypripediums.—When potting on, knock the plant out of the old pot, remove the crock and loosen the outside roots somewhat so that they can immediately grow into the fresh mixture. No special after care is needed in potting on. edhe ii When dividing and potting it will pay you handsomely to spend extra time and care in dividing. If you had servered the plant some months before, the job will be much easier. Sever the rhyzome which connects the bulbs or growths to each other, having about two or three bulbs or growths in each division. Carefully work the divisions away from each other, first. loosening the soil on the plant by bumping it a few times on the bench, trying to damage the root system of each division as little as possible. If you are lucky enought to save some good roots with a sod holding them together so much the better, pot the old sod with the plant, if not, carefully cut the roots back so that they are just long enough to sit in the pot running out- ward and downward without doubling back. Having crocked your pot, put a little sphagnum or dry leaves over the crock to stop the soil from blocking the drainage. The drain- age hole should be enlarged if you have any doubt as to its capacity. Place a few hands full of soil in the pot and consolidate it with the hands to form a dome on which to place the plant. Place the plant in the pot, and with one hand hold it where you wish it to remain. Put a few hands full of soil in with the other hand and work it amongst the roots with the fingers. Keep doing this until the plant is firmly in position and then consolidate the soil by pressing down the side of the pot with the fingers, giving it several taps on the bench to ensure that you leave no voids. : After potting water the plant, and if it has been divided, place it in the warmest part of your house, or better still, plunge it in bottom heat for a few weeks. Keep the plants close together for some weeks after potting and shade carefully, for they will require a: warm humid position to start the roots growing again. The sooner. this happens, the better will be your growth during the coming season. Strong direct sunlight should be avoided, as it will draw moisture from the plant which it is not capable of replacing by its root system. The whole of the foregoing applies to Cym- bidiums, Slippers and similar genera. Page 60 Victorian Orchid Club Activities BASIL R. HODGINS, Essenden, Vic. @ The opening of the Season’s activities in February, were marked by the issue of the Bulle- tin, a monthly report and summary of the activities of the Club, with lists of awards, results of competitions and plants exhibited, as well as the names of new members joining the Club. | ieee Cultural notes are given for the monthly guidance of members. The issue is timed to reach them.one week before the next meeting, so that it srves. two purposes, as it reminds mem- bers of the forthcoming meeting. The April meeting of the Club was a date of great jubilation as the Club was able to announce a new meeting place—The Indepen- dent Church Hall, corner Collins and Russell Streets; Melbourne.: It is thought: that this situation meets the approval of members, as although more costly, it has more seating accommodation and is free from annoying ‘street noises which characterized the: last meeting place... Also: good: light, and tabling’ give «ample space to display the exhibits, which during the winter, months are very numerous. A The Library which has grown to be one of the chief attractions of the Club, has a permanent and safe home, © * Has Nias Lich The attendance is reflected in the’ move— February 59 members, March’ 83,’ April 99, May 130 and June 120, and during the five months under review 30 new membeis joined the Club, Eh cag ui i AN An appeal by the Committee for younger growers to come’ forward. and lecture’ has met with a ready response and it is hoped that many more will’ follow. sa Trt tig The Club’s Show’ will be held’ this year ‘in the main hall of the Melbourne Town Hall, on September 18, 19, 20, opening from/12 noon to 10 p.m., on the first day and from'‘10 a.m. to 10 p.tn. on the proceeding’ days, ~“"" The Children’s Hospital Building Fund will benefit from the exhibition. ; During the period under review, a number of Cypripediums.: and | oné Cattleya have been entered for awards, but without success. It seems that the’ Judges” have ‘set a very high _ a fire at night destroyed the Cypress hedge and AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Scoble purposely left his plants out in the bush- shed to hold them back for the Club’s Show, and’ bush-shed, with disastrous results. This collec- tion will be greatly missed. B | The meeting in February took the form of 4 question night, when members availed them- selves of the opportunity to solve a lot of theif minor troubles, bbs The Prizes for the 1945 series of competitions were presented. a March—At this Meeting a paper by Cpt: H. E. Young D.Sc.Agr., entitled ‘Orchid Observations in New Guinea” was read by the President and thoroughly enjoyed by all present: During ‘the period of his Army work’ in Mel- bourne, Capt. Young was a regular attendant at our Meetings. tk ae en _April—The talk at this Meeting was, from Mr. Rosewarne and was entitled “The. Veges tative propogation of Cymbidiums. It was @ very popular. subject from the number.. of questions that were put to the speaker for, somes time after. He explained the makings of a: hot- box and the treatment of back bulbs during the process.of propogation. SO May—This month Mr. Thomlinson was, thé speaker, and dealt with his early efforts to.,¢s- tablish his collection. He stressed on members the need to import their own plants direct ant not to buy a plant without seeing it first im Howe reas ee _June—Messrs. W. A. Wright and K. E. Jones combined to give a talk on Cypripedium Culture and threw themselves open to a_ vast number of questions which were answered, with promptness. At this meeting it was found necessary to fix the date of the 1947 Show if order to secure the Melbourne Town Hall, and the dates decided on were September 16,17, 18) An novation that was welcomed on’ June 30th was an invitation by Mr. and Mrs. Imrie | to attend.at their home at Scotts Parade, Ivanhoe ‘| to see a display of heating and other electiical appliances. The outing was enjoyed by thé great number of members who attended ‘and thanks are due to our hosts for the trouble they had gone to, to cater for us. ea ~The Club is now in a position to leap ahead and should soon show the force of new mémbets that are so continuously joining us, 9 8? | | | | AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 « Page él Orchids for Beginners R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vie. | Our Editor has suggested that an ‘article on— thi . . _ this subject by each State representative should . (Published. The idea is good, and since’ its Publication will coincide with the New South ee and Victorian Shows, at which the Sep- eRe r number will be available to the public, of ace result in bringing to the fold a number W growers who perhaps have been turning “Matter over in their minds for some years. ee ae an article as this, the first thing to be vid iy that Orchids are not hard to grow, pro- Cd that proper conditions are provided for ee grow in. The soil in which they grow fey obtainable, they are far more free from " than most plants, and any grower could Pect moderate success. Th Victoria, with which I deal in this article, ae should have some kind of glass house nish rane or unheated, and I append at the cold of this article the different genus which areth 8row under the heading of unheated, ‘ther with the names of a few of “More common varieties with a rough estimate shoul . Price at which a flowering size plant ca Age obtainable. The beginner should ereoen apprenticeship with the cheaper ‘ties, but for the first year or two he will : oe nace pleasure growing and flowering bee eaper varieties for many of them are iful, hs ny reader has the thought in his mind that advies grow a few Orchids, he should seek to the aad buy a book on Orchid culture suited ite 1ctorian climate and rigidly follow the rein ‘tons of that book until experience “Pts some departure from its advice. ie an do decide to grow Orchids, you must A ae to give them some attention every only: ae year, but that attention aggregates Servien ew minutes daily, carrying out such ho ee se watering, shading, ventilating and glass’, ‘ing of your boiler. A coke boiler for iS give Ouses requires only the same attention as If Wales a coke or briquette hot water service. mee ave not one, ask your friends how much daily «° involved. For the rest, ten minutes Y in the summer and’ five minutes or less in Reuter is the aggregate of work involved, = lake When plants require potting, but this Sh Srious only with a large collection. sati ‘ould you decide to buy a few Orchids, be €d to pick up a plant here and there. Membership of the Victorian Orchid Club is the is req ¢ a- BOT MET ASN | best introduction you can get to growers. Import a few plants of species from Malay and ‘India, and ‘perhaps a few seedlings from England when possible, but’ seek your chief supply in established’ ‘plants bought locally, for you may lose some of ‘your importations if you have had no experience in dealing with them on arrival in ‘this country. While building up a stock you could fill the empty spaces in your glass’ house with such plants as Adiantum, various ferns, all types of Rex, Begonia, Anthurium and other types of foliage plants which are not readily subject to disease when grown under glass, and your glass house could also be used to propagate seedlings for your garden or cuttings of outdoor plants of which you wish to build up stocks. ORCHiDS RECOMMENDED FOR COLD GLASS HOUSE : Approx. value of Genus Name flowering size plant Cymbidium Lowianum (specie) 10/- to 20/- Tracyanum (specie) 10/- to 20/- Giganteum (specie) 10/- to 20/- Matador 30/- to 40/- Alexanderi 30/- to 40/- Doris 30/- to 40/- Astra 30/- to 40/- Cypripedium Insigne (specie) 10/- to 20/- (Slipper) Charlesworthe (specie) 10/- to 15/- Hirsutissimum (specie) 10/- to 15/- Villosum (specie) 10/- to 15/- Insigne Sanderae 20/- to 40/- Leeanum 30/- to 40/- Harrisianum 30/- to 60/- Dendrobium Nobile 10/- to 30/- Infundibulum 10/- to 20/- Chrysostoxum 10/- to 20/- Epidendrum O’Brienianum 5/- to 10/- Lycaste Skinnert 20/- to 30/- Deppii 20/- to 30/- Zygopetalum Mackayi 20/- to 40/- Odontoglossum Grande | 20/- to 30/- Oncidium Flexuosum , 15/- to 20/- @ I would like to tell readers of a big improvement a Victorian grower has made on a box heated by pipes from a boiler. On top of the pipes copper trays have been placed and filled with water. The water in the trays is: heated by a 1 inch copper pipe from the boiler. This box gives excellent results, equal to those from the electric box, but I still prefer the electric box for labour saving and consistent control of temperature.—R. W. R. ain Page 62 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Cattleyas : L. F. HAWLEY, Lindfield, N.S.W. @ The months of July and August in New South Wales are the mid-winter months. Outside night ‘temperatures will average about 45 deg. F. and may occasionally fall to as low as 38 deg. F. September is the time the Willow Trees start to show signs of renewed life, the early peaches come into bloom and nature indicates generally that warmer weather is close at hand. But do not be misled into the belief that warmth: for the glass house can now be dispensed with. This is: the’ mistake ‘that most inexperienced growers make. Whilst the days are appreciably lengthen- ing: in September and there is also a gradual uplift in the day temperatures the nights are, however, still cold with. the average well below the 60 deg. it should, be. the growers aim to maintain. Heat for Cattleya houses in Sydney should not be.turned off until well into October and perhips ‘at least about one month later in the Country. Always bear in mind that a Cattleya-is miserable at any time of the year in a temperature below 60 deg. F. Cattleyas grown under the conditions advo- cated in these articles will be superior in size and appearance and productivity, to plants which are kept under cold storage*conditions in unheated houses. True it is th e varieties of Cattle- yas withstand lower temperatures better than others, but it may take the. grower many years to build up a stock of*’such more or less cold resistant varieties and ‘even when this has been accomplished, the same plants given warmer winter conditions akin to their native habitat would produce superior ‘results in appearance, vigour, and production of winter blooms. September is the time.,when plants should be carefully examined with the. view, if necessary, for the destruction of insect pests, principally scale and thrips, and in this connection the use of Volck is recommended. Volck is very effect- ive when used against scale which is: smothered and peels off -within a few days of spraying. There is no need for plants to be dipped and then drained as was at one time considered necessary. Ordinary spraying methods can be adopted, preferably on a dull day or in the evening and two such sprayings—one in September and the other in February will probably be found suffici- ent to keep the plants clean and free of all pests. Furthermore Volck appéars’ to also act as a repellant and remains effective on the leaves of the plants for many weeks after its application. Volck has been used in England mostly with good results, but occasionally with complet¢ failure, the leaves of plants turning yellow and falling off. However, Mr. Bruce Hogg, who makes a success of his Cattleyas in Melbourne has used Volck for many years with every satisfaction. My experience has been in keeping with his. Volck should only be applied in thé strength recommended by the makers an printed on the tin. Cattleyas, when well grow?: are the aristocrats of the Orchid tribe. When if a strong and healthy condition it will be found that they do not readily contract disease and it @ We have received the following letter from Mr.. Clint ‘McDade of Riverment Orchids, and present it as a matter of interest to our readets: i oA “June 19, 1946 Mr. L. A. Cholot, Express .Traffic:Manager, , Pan American World Airways System 135 East 42nd Street - New York 17, New York. Dear Mr. Cholot. I have just received a wire from: my secretary, Miss Be# Addie Coleman, from Tunbridge Wells, England, statin$ that our orchid Cattleya Stalin, variety Rivermont, 5¢ ceived an Award of Merit at the Royal Horticultur4 Society show on June 18. f pe This was the first shipment of orchids ever to cross the Atlantic and be entered in competition for the award’ in London. All over the orchid growing world, whethef England, France, Belgium, India, Australia, California, of New Jersey, the judges of the Royal Horticultural SocietY are supposed to be the most critical of all. An award from this august body attached to an orchid is eagerly sought — after by all growers who are ablt to exhibit before thé Society. : , Thank you very much for all you did to help make this possible. Sincerely yours, : CLINT McDADE. | pes @ Readers of the A.O.R. who are not already members should make application for admis sion to their local Society. Literature, lectures and beautiful exhibits at monthly meetings. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Western Suburbs Amateur Orchid Grower’s Club @ In June last, Mr. R. Smith of Campsie, invited interested’ orchid growers to meet with the object of forming an Orchid Grower’s Club. In answer to this invitation, twelve orchid towers assembled and the above club was formed, Appointments being made as follows:— Mr. R. Smith, President; Mr. R. H. Neil, Treasurer; Mr. D. Corrie, Hon Secretary. This happy gathering found everybody keen and interested for the furtherance of the Club’s progress, er: For’ several months meetings were held at tr. Smith’s residence, but owing to increase in ™membership,. the meetings are now held every second: Tuesday eachmonth at 8 p.m. in the Dispensary Hall, Campsie. Tet ~ Since the formation of this club twelve ™onths ago, :progress'has been made. The mem- ‘bership has risen from twelve to sixty-five which ‘Ss more‘than satsifactory. ol _ Some members have ben growing orchids for Over itWelye years.’ Consequently helpful advice Can be given to those who need it; also having 2 member a hybridist (Mr. Neil) indicates further: progress for the Club, the’ object of which is to ‘render any assistance and advice in { practical form to its members. The subscrip- ae aly §/- per annum, commencing on Ist July, © ak pres ~ The'Club had ‘been formed only two months When the first orchid display was held in Campsie and was an outstanding success. Approximately £4,000 worth of plants on exhibition resulting in the Red Cross benefiting to the extent of *£18/18/0 which was a’ good éffort. The next display: will be held in September this year and every effort is being made to ensure a brilliant display. : ts ; 3 pes . ~ D. A. CORRIE; 2 Hon. Secretary. ® Suggestion has been made that Trevor Hunt (Ipswich) should seek a sponsor to publish a Ooklet of the detailed information he has com- Piled on native orchids in Queensland. He is a zealous and precise student and his compre- ensivé data should do much to put an up-to- ate means of identity before all interested. Mr. “iunt is a teacher with the Department of Edu- Cation. Nature bestowed her own reward for his Interest when he discovered at Tambourine Ountain a new species in Sarc. Ceciliae var alba. Page 63 From the Editor’s Mail-bag @ The following interesting letter from Tas- mania is very welcome. Also in this issue there is a description of an Orchid garden in Launces- ton, Tasmania. Thus the A.O.R. has almost achieved its objective of covering Orchid inter- ests throughout the Commonwealth. Dear Sir,— I have never seen any comments in the A.O.R. on orchid growing or growers in Tasmania, so my few re- marks below may be of interest to you. I have always read with sympathy the complaints of the non-flowering of Vanda Coerulea. Possessing one of these wayward plants that has never flowered, I was in- terested by articles in the Review stressing the value of sunlight. So nine months ago I transferred my plant. to the window sill of my office, having an uninterrupted northerly aspect and receiving all the direct sunshine. Coeurulea is now showing four spikes, small and slow growing, and the foliage, originally yellow, is now bright green. Now I wish I could bring a few more of the other “difficult” plants along. Cymbidiums and Cypripediums do well here in un- heated houses, but more care is needed in composts and watering. My observations’ are leading me to adopt a much more open compose than is -usually advocated for Sydney. Here Winter, Autumn’ and Spring temperatures are frequently in the thirties, while the maximum day temperature is often below 50 degrees, so that moisture- holding ingredients must be avoided, so Sphagnum is “‘off.” _ For Dendrobiums, Cattleyas and Vandas I have to sub- stitute Dicksonia fibre’ for todea and find it satisfactory so now I intend to use it in-the Cymbidium compost also. ' Judging -by the growth of ferns, etc., on these tree. fern trunks in the gullies, there must .be considerable nutri- ment in it. I am also using tan bark. © : - I am experimenting with Cattleyas’ and hope for the best. I should like to try Odontoglossums, etc., but can- not obtain plants. Se cobra ‘a ea There is an increasing number of orchid growers in Hobart but we are all in the beginner’s class as yet. In a year or so it may be worth while trying to establish an. Orchid Society here.. - i ; Yours faithfully, : H. J. EXLEY, 5 Bedford St., New Town, [ : Tasmania. @ For the first time since its inception the Queensland Orchid Society has elected a woman as vice-president. Honour goes to Miss Kathleen Mcllrath, of Murwillumbah, who despite the eighty odd miles she has to travel is frequently at the monthly meetings. During recent years her hobby has been a means of considerably increasing Red Cross funds by the Orchid Shows she has organised in Murwillumbah with the assistance of friends. Arts Mistress at the Mur- willumbah High School, Miss Mcllrath is an ex-student of the Conservatorium of . Music, Sydney, and is leader and conductor of the Presbyterian Church Choir which broadcasts from 2 M.U. on the second Sunday in each month. Page 64 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Award Judging --N.S.W. 4 Points and Standards The Committee of the Orchid Society of N.S.W. bearing in mind the coming flowering season and the possibility of a large number of plants being submitted for an Award of the Society recently reviewed the standards for Cymbidiums, Cypripediums and Cattleyas. As a consequence some of the standards have been slightly altered. If, during the coming season it is thought thae further adjustments are needed they will again be reviewed. For the information of exhibitors the award standards. for Cymbidiums, Cypripediums and Cattleyas are set out below. A condition of the granting of an award is that a coloured photograph of the award plant be lodged with the Society. 85 Points or over = F.C.C. SOmmaee = ive 75 in ——s Cs CYMBIDIUMS. The plant in flower must be submitted for judging. Shape of Flower.—To be symmetrical in form, giving the appearance of roundness. The dorsal not to be excessively hooded. The labellum to be wide and fully displayed, also straight or slightly recurved, but the apex should not turn under. All flower segments—dorsal, labellum, petals and sepals to be broad, flat, rounded, symmetrical and evently balanced. Widely spaced or narrow petals and sepals are a defect. Maximum points—30. Colour of Flower.—Colour shall include white, and any shade near white or other colour, and any combination of colours. It should be clear, glistening and fresh, not smudgy or blurred. Blotching and striping should be well- defined and their distribution balanced. In all cases the colour of the lip shall be considered in assessing the general effect of the flower. Maxi- mum points—25. Size of Flower.—A flower of 4 inches in width, measured across the petals, to be allotted 10 Donel Points to be allocated appropriately for flowers above and below that size. Maximum points—15, Texture of Flower.—Shall be of good sub- stance, firm and show aliveness. A faded flower is a defect. Maximum points—10. Habit of Spikes—It is an advantage fea the stem to be sufficiently strong to support the in- floresence without other aid. It should be long and may be straight, but preferably arching and not twisted. The flowers should be evenly distributed along the stem’ and should not’ over- lap or be bunched. Removal of misshapen or misplaced flowers is a handicap. ea points—10. Florescence of Plant.—Each spike should carry preferably not less than seven (7) flowers. Points to be granted for flowers in excess of that num- ber, relative to the size of the plant. Maximum points—10. ; Total maximum points—100. CATTLEYAS. Shape of Flower.—To be symmetrical in form, giving the appearance of roundness. The dorsal to be perpendicular and may be slightly hooded. The labellum to be wide and fully displayed, also straight from the base, or slightly concave. Frilled or serrated edge an advantage, but the apex should not turn under. All flower segments —dorsal, labellum, petals and sepals to be broad, slightly concave, rounded, symmetrical and evenly balanced. Widely spaced or narrow petals and sepals are a defect. Maximum points —35. Colour of Flower—Colour shall include white, and any shade near white or other colour, and any combination of colours. It should be clear, glistening and fresh, not smudgy or blurred. Blotching and striping should be well defined and their distribution balanced. To be free from bleaching, insect marks and other blemishes. In all cases the colour of the lip shall be con- sidered in assessing the general effect of the flower. Maximum points—25. Size of Flower.—The size of the flower to be six (6) inches across the petals. Fifteen points to be allotted to a flower of this size, and points to be allocated proportionately for flowers above and below that size. Maximum points—20. Texture of Flower.—Shall be of good sub- stance, firm and show freshness. A faded flower is a defect. Maximum points—10. Carriage of Flower—The flower should be | effectively displayed on a good firm stem, Maxi- mum points—10. Total maximum points—100. CYPRIPEDIUMS. The plant in flower must be submitted for judging. Shape-—Flower to be symmetrical in form, and as nearly circular as possible. General appear- ance of flower to be preferably slightly concave, Eee . AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 jeiaess than flat. Sepals and petals should not old back at the edges. Dorsal Sepal to be round, toad and low at base and to be encased in Ventral sepal. Ventral Sepal to form a back- 8tound for the pouch and preferably to show 4 margin of about 3” around and beyond the ee top. Ventral sepal to fold smoothly over the Dorsal sepal so that when viewed from the Rae the general effect is smooth and round. als to be paddle shaped (obovate) and may Sightly taper to their base near centre of the Wer. Tips to throw slightly forward to con- sees with the general concave appearance of © flower. The margin preferably to be free yom fluting or frilling, Petals to be carried ‘most horizontally. Pouch to be short and ae iN appearance, tending toward the perpen- mes rounded, smooth and glossy, and placed : that it will give conformity and balance to © flower? Maximum points—35. . Colour—The flower may be white or any other Sour or -combination of colours, and should Page 65 be clear, fresh, bright, and glossy. Maximum points—25. Size-—A flower with.a dorsal sepal of 3 inch ‘in width to be allotted 20 points. Points to be allotted proportionately to blooms with dorsals above or below that measurement, but due consideration to be given to the relative size of the flower. Maximum points—25. Stem.—The flower to be displayed well above the foliage. The stem should be firm and erect and not less than 6 inches from the crown of the plant to the base of the ovary. Maximum points—10. Texture.—All Segments should be firm and of good substance. Maximum points—S. Total maximum points—100. @ Photographs, questions, letters and articles for publication should be addressed to the Hon. Editor or Associates at their home address. DENDROBIUUM, SPECIOSUM, var. Hilli. A fine specimen, very free flowering. Grown in full sunlight by Mr. D. Adamson, Chatswood, N.S.W. Page 66 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 ORCHID SOCIETY OF N.S.W. ANNUAL EXHIBITION 1946 Will be held at David Jones’ Eliza- beth Street Premises, | 1th, 12th, 13th September. Cymbidiums in their full glory, Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, Lycastes and other attractive var- ities. A show to remember. The Society's Certificates and Medals will again be awarded for those Exhibits deemed worthy by the Committee. BERNARD JESSOP, Hon. Secretary. 18 Hercules St., Chatswood. JA7122. Dendrobium Toftii N. F. THERNEY, Cairns, Nth. Queensland @ This Orchid was first discovered, accidentally by Surveyor Toft, in the Eighties at Ninds Creek, which flows into the Johnstone River, about 3 miles down from Innisfail. It is also found around the swamps, between Bellenden Kerr and Silkwood, Bailey’s Creek, Daintree River and Portland Roads. Mostly growing on the following trees, Barringtonia, Beetle-Nut, Palms and Mangrove. When searching for this Orchid it is necessary to change into strong clothes, boots, etc., and wear a long sleeved shirt, due to a thick rush growth up to 8 ft. high, the edges of which are very cutting. You are up to your stomach in dirty smelly water and slush and progress is slow and tiring, as these swamps are hidden. There is hardly any breeze in them. But to locate a specimen plant 5 to 6 feet long with about 6 leads and racemes carrying up to 45 flowers recompensates you for your trouble and discomfort. D.Toftii is one of Australia’s best dendrobiums with its large white flowers and deep violet veins. The flowers of this Orchid, seems to attract some insect which fertilizes them, for nearly every finished flower develops into a seed pod, apparently 90 per cent. of the seed is wasted by the wind blowing it to unsuitable places, as seedling plants are seldom noticed on trees. This plant obtains moisture all the year round, from the water beneath, and heavy dews and rain from overhead. Vines climb over most trees from the swamp, some plants grow out in full hot sun, and others are semi shaded by branches of the trees. Toftii seldom throws an aerial growth. I believe Mr. W. Kearns of Cu- cania has 2 plants of D.Toftii, Alba. A Railway Bridge gang discovered one out- size plant on a Mango tree, at the end of Waughs Pocket swamp, 14 ft. long. I once had the pleasure of forwarding a spray with 54 blooms to Rev. H. M. R. Rupp. I notice that the larger the plant, the more flowers to the spray. Every plant collected is hard earned. On our last hunt, when coming out of a swamp a man was there with a rifle, we asked was he after wild pigs, as we had noticed certain marks. He said no, Alligators, our old friend George Swinson of Ballarat, is still with us on this final hunt, with the usual pan full of sausages. Other collectors in our District, could give further information on this beautiful Orchid. : leaving 5 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 67 Notes on some N.S.W. Greenhoods E. L. HAYES, Campsie, N.S.W. © Among the terrestrial Orchids of N.S.W. ere are several families, the flowers of which, ae their beauty or unusual structure, are of : a Sreat interest to either the flower lover or ‘ Otanist, and some of them have proved to ily soo suitable for pot culture. For this leds Wy ave selected the Pterostylis genus, popu- re nown as Greenhoods, comprising 60 or = © Species which can be collected in N.S.W. Ween from March to October, with a few monte in Summer. They may be found te Sst anywhere from the coast to the Western Pes of the Dividing Range. cat ithout specially searching for them I have armen various species at Lakemba, Bankstown, Syd ombe, Long Bay and Como, all suburbs of ney. I have grown in pots and flowered eecerucutloray ‘nutans, obtusa, curta, truncata, penis) Concinna, paviflora, Daintreyana, rufa, idan and several others which I did not miley, y they were all gathered within 100 pein Sydney. Greenhoods are usually found to fate in colonies and it is a desirable practice € only. a few plants from each group, hy ome to grow on and multiply. When ten ® them up handle carefully so as not to ray off the tuber, which is usually about one 4 aa So below the surface of the soil. Four Aare inch pots are large enough and will hg eee up to twellve or more plants or are fo to each pot. For compost, the soil they eri eS rowing in, or sandy leaf-mould and cutee as used for Cymbidiums in N.S.W. is to th ¢. Thrip and red spider are very partial trolled tender leaves, but they are easily con- €c with one of the usual sprays. a tusa illustrated, were gathered in flower "8 March about four years ago at Lilyvale 1 when grown singly. Tay dhe ee ene feature of Pterostylis is the tion, ‘i Ower is constructed to ensure fertilisa- he labellum is very sensitive, and when Toya y an insect, usually a small beetle, it the th apidly like a spring to a position against into Fine Part of the column and tips the beetle Pitcher-like flower, almost blocking its Sres. aye : on ts e As the labellum remains in this position ncagle half an hour to an hour or more, the climb In its efforts to escape is compelled to through a tubular ‘opening formed b leaiccolithelicollimal land labellum, thereby passing over the pollen masses which become attached to the beetle, and on the process being repeated in another flower, the pollen is left on the sticky surface of the stigma, thus completing the act of pollenisation. “GREENHOOD” PTEROSTYLIS OBTUSA Grown by E. L. Hayes, Campsie, N.S.W. Photo by E. N. Keith, Petersham, N.S.W. ®@ Government botanist, Mr. C. T. White, who recently spent six months in the course of duty in the Solomon Islands, gave a talk bristling with informative tid-bits. Said that much timber will eventually be cleared from the islands when a plan is put into action to establish farm lands for foods for natives. The timber undoubtedly will be marketed. Will Orchid collectors be numbered amongst the lumber men? Page 68 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 T. H. James Retires @ Mr. T. H. James, first Secretary of the Orchid Society of N.S.W. resigned from the Hon. Secretaryship in March last, after 12 years of long and splendid service in the interests of members. Mr. James had been interested in Orchids for many years before the foundation of the Society. His father had a small collection fo Orchids which became the nuc- leus of Trev’s present collection. He has a repu- tation for depart- ure from ortho- dox methods being an ardent advocate for cool- house culture and one of the first to use tan bark. He has had con- siderable success in growing most varieties of Orch- ids. The beginning of the Society and the influence of Mr. James can be traced back to informal meetings held at Mr. Mac- Donald’s_ resi- dence at Summer Hill. In 1934 the _number of grow- ers had consider- ably increased and a meeting was held at Mr. James home which resulted in the formation of the present Society. Eighteen months later the Australian Orchid Review was born. The Society is now a flourishing organization and much of the hard work is over. It is re- gretted that Mr. James finds that he cannot carry on, but he has the satisfaction of seeing the results of his splendid efforts. His services T. H. JAMES, ESQ. Hon. Secretary, Orchid Society of New South Wales, 1934 to 1946 will not be entirely lost. His cultural notes which have been of great use to beginners will still be included in the monthly circular and readers of the Australian Orchid Review can look forward to a continuance of his ‘Notes for Novices.” At the May General Meeting of the Society, the greater part of the evening was devoted to the presentation of a testimonial to Mr. James in recognition of his services. The meeting was an enthusias- tic one and on his entry members greeted him with “For he is a Jolly ‘Good Fellow.” Prior to His Honour, Judge Markell making the presentation, the Chairman, Mr. E. A. Hamil- ton read a large number of letters from members and Kindred So- cieties culogising Mr. James for his hard work and the personal help received and ex- pressing — regret that he had found it necessary to relinquish his post. Judge Markell said that he had known Mr. James for a long time and that he counted him as one of his best friends. He traversed the history of the Society from the beginning to the present and expressed his personal thanks to Mrs. James for the great help she had been during the early days, especially at the inaugural meetings of the Society which were held at their home. ne = as = na a eae a" = oss SI Oo a ee ee a a a a / 3a ee OS, IS = es AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 69 Northern Notes Bouquets and Suggestions e Fitting tribute to a charming patron was the Presentation made to the retiring Governor of dy eae (Sir Leslie Orme Wilson) on the Bee his departure for England after 14 years of th ce. The presentation on behalf of members a € Queensland Orchid Society was made by President, Mr. E. J. Beard, accompanied by *S. Beard, and the honorary secretary, Mr. T. Sir ratveyson, at the Archerfield Aerodrome. the ss'i¢ Was presented with a special badge of ene ee and a buttonhole of D. Phalaenopsis, which » of the society. Orchids in the bouquet Coane Mrs. Beard presented to Lady Wilson were Atributed by members, the central feature 8 14 Cattleya hybrids with a surround of rae rilaenopsis and D. Superbiens. In an in- ihe a\ chat Mr. Beard expressed the wish that reta; eensland Orchid Society be allowed to the = the name of Sir Leslie Orme Wilson on ean €cords as patron, in the hope that he would ™ to take up his residence in the State. Seite single bloom of D. Phalaenopsis is a dis iis manifestation of the glory of a msas uh ?¥ of this orchid, usually referred to as che eae Cooktown Orchid.” Considering a quae beauty of form and colour coupled = he lasting quality of the blooms, and the able es Plants are easy to obtain, it is remark- by oj at D. Phalaenopsis is not featured more 8'ss house growers. Certainly glass house pays dividends with this native Span? Which is somewhat “tricky” away from glasg ie habitat; one appreciable result with Condit; Ouse treatment being that the enclosed | Ons guard the blooms from the bees. Mr. €c. Blair is one of the few Brisbane growers Silver vats was presented with the Society’s of hig edal suitably engraved in recognition also ng and meritorious service, His Honour anded him a wallet, the contents of which me subscribed by local and interstate mem- ence asked Mr. James to hand to his wife sistance © bag in kindly appreciation of her L Raion by Messrs. E. A. Hamilton, and E. Member “that Mr. James be elected a Life A tet of the Society” was carried unanimously, of the: t of members present spoke eloquently Presce a 4ssociation with Mr. James, and ex- for th, their appreciation of what he had done *m and the Society. who exhibits free-flowering D. Phalaenopsis, ‘grown under glass. Mackay member, Mr. A. Grant, is the sole grower to devote the entire space of a glass house to this plant, with spec- tacular results. Many Orchid fanciers were amongst the U.S.A. forces temporarially stationed in Queensland, and although accredited with being ‘‘Cattleya-minded,” they were much impressed with the “Cookie,” and frequently cited the possibilities in the mass culture of this Orchid for commercial floral work. Certainly there is scope for some enterprising Australian in developing the demand for this native dend- robe, the tall, graceful flowering scapes of which, would grace equally the banquet or bed-side table. @ With a knowledge of human foibles, and a natural sense of humour, Mr. E. J. Beard (Queensland president) knows how to titillate the interest of visitors at the monthly displays. To a group of tiros admiring his Cup. Fairrie- anum he announced that it was known as “the £1000 Orchid.” This staggering statement was followed by the explanation that after its dis- covery, all but one of the four plants in exist- ence died, and the owner maintained that he would not sell that one plant for £1000. Subse- quently an expedition en route to Thibet came upon a large patch of this Orchid. One plant was sent down to Calcutta and sold for £120; five others which followed brought £25 each, and the bulk supply later sold at 5/- per plant! Mr. E. H. Cooper, who lives at Nundah, Brisbane, is an Orchid enthusiast who grows fine specimen plants under bush house conditions, and advocates a generous food supply for all orchids. It is not unusual for him to display specimen plants so large that he requires assist- ance in carrying a single exhibit. Cattleyas, cymbidiums, and dendrobes, all seem to respond to Mr. Cooper’s formula, which he gives as “‘a couple of handsfull of blood and bone in the usual compost, and a little extra sprinkled on the top of the compost to soak through when hosing.” All beholders envy the results, but few feel disposed to treat their plants to such rich | fare. Mr. Cooper’s Laelia Anceps, exhibited at the May meeting, boasted 11 flower scapes with a total of 35 blooms—a glowing and spectacular evidence of his methods. Page 70 1946 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, Two New Orchids from Western Australia Rev. Hf. M. R. RUPP. Northbridge. N.S.W. @ At the request of Mr. C. A. Gardner, Govern- ment Botanist of Western Australia, I have undertaken to describe for publication two recently-discovered native Orchids of that State, both of which are of exceptional interest from the botanical, if not from the aesthetic, point of view. Not having seen either plant in a living state, I felt some diffidence about complying with the request, but as Mr. Gardiner forwarded all the material held by the Perth Herbarium, together with his own notes and _ beautiful coloured enlargements of the floral details, ‘it would have been churlish on my part to decline the honour of introducing these newcomers to the public, and it is fitting that this should be ‘done through the columns of the Australian Orchid Review. . 1. MONADENIA AUSTRALIENSIS, new sp. Planta terrestris, robusta, usque ad 30 cm alta, tuberibus ovoideis et radicibus sucosis. Folia circiter 9-12 prope caulis basem, linearia, 4-10 cm longa, superiora inferioraque bracteoidea. Flores ‘numerosi sessiles, in spicam spiralem usque.ad 15 :cm longam; bracteae subtendentes magnae, flores excedentes, acuminatae vel acutae. Flos singularis parvus, ab ovarii’ base 12-14 mm longus, Sepala fere aequilonga. Sepalum dorsale purpureum, cucullatum,; 3-5 mm longum; calcar paulum longius. Sepala lateralia viridi-alba apicibus purpureis, oblique oblonga, “obtusa, deflexa. Petala pallido-flava, inaequaliter quad- rata, erecta, breviora quam sepala. Labellum aurantiacum apice rubro, parvissimum, oblongum obtusum. Columna brevis, horizontalis, appendi- cibus duobus obovatis crenulatis ornata. Anthera flava, post rostellum ¢érectum deflexa: stigma inagnum, pulvinatum. A robust terrestrial plant up to 30 cm high, with ovoid tubers and fleshy roots: Leaves about 9 to 12 towards the base of the stem, the lowest reduced to translucent bracts, thence upwards becoming linear, up to 10 cm long, concave or keeled, amplexicaul, the uppermost merging into green herbaceous bracts. Flowers numerous, sessile in a crowded, spirally-arranged spike sometimes 15 cm long, their subtending bracts large, exceeding the flowers, acuminate or acute. Individual flower small, 12-14 mm long from MONADENIA AUSTRALIENSIS, 7. sp. A, Plant, about $ natural size. B, a single flower, much enlarged. SMRR, del. C, a flower with the dorsal sepal and its spur removes” D, column from the side. a, anther: r, rostellum: 5’? stigma: w, column wing. ; y E, side view of column of M. micrantha. Bolus in “Orchids at the Cape Peninsula.”) F, section of column. (B, C, D, and F are after drawings by C. A. Garda B. to F all greatly enlarged). (After ¥ AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 the base of the ovary. Sepale approximately equal in length, 3-5 mm. Dorsal sepal dark purple, cucullate, the spur at the base a trifle longer than the sepal itself. Lateral sepals green- ish-white with purplish apices, obliquely oblong, obtuse, deflexed. Petals pale-yellowish, unequally quadrate or rhomboid-trapeziform, erect, shorter . than the sepals. Labellum orange with a red apex very small, oblong, obtuse. Column short, horizontal, furnished on either side with an obovate crenulated appendage. Anther yellow, deflexed or depressed behind the erect rostellum. Stigma large, cushion-shaped. Mature fruit not Seen. ‘ Young’s Siding, Stirling Range area, Western Australia, November 1944 (the type, in the State Herbarium at Perth): Miss D. Southerland. The genus Monadenia Lindl. has hitherto been Supposed to be restricted to Africa and adjoining islands: its appearance in Australia is therefore a matter of outstanding interest. It is closely telated -to the larger and better-known genus Disa; in fact Bolus, the chief authority on the Orchids of Cape Colony absorbed it into Disa hi a2 mere section of the latter; but IS action does not appear to be gener- ally -‘endorsed. The Western Australian Plant is undoubtedly closely allied to the South African M.micrantha Lindl.; but there are lMportant differences, particularly in the struc- ‘ure of the column., These distinctions will be st appreciated by a study of the accompanying Plate. In Fig. D, I have reproduced Mr. Gard- ner’s side view of the column of M.aus/raliensis, And in Fig. E I have copied Bolus’s side viek of that ‘of M.micrantha, from his “Orchids of the Cape Peninsula’? (1918 ed.), Pl.44. It will be obvious at once how different they are: and the African flower entirely lacks the conspicuous €renulated column-appendages of the Australian. Some years ago a speceis of the African genus Satyrium was discovered in South Australia; but Ultimately it was shown to have escaped from Cultivation, Mr. Gardner is fully convinced that” this Hias not been the case with the Western Australian Monadenia, which must be ragerded “S specifically distinct from any African member of the genus and could not therefore have been ‘ntroduced either accidentally or intentionally. 2. THELYMITRA CUCULLATA, new sp. Planta gracilis, usque ad 45 cm alta. Folii “Amina brevissima, bracteis caulinis similis. Brac- ‘eae. 2. Flores pauci parvi, pallida-flavi maculus Purpureis multis; bracteae, subtendentes breves, *cutae. Perianthi segmenta 8-9 mm longa, ob- ‘usa. Sepalum dorsale latissimum, conspicue Page 71 cucullatum. Sepala lateralia patentia, parviora quam petala. Iabellum oblongum, obtusum, 7-8 mm longum. Columna comparate magna: ala erecta et solum bilobata; lobi antheram exce- dentes, integres, obtusi, sinum obtusum post antherae medium formantes, extrinsicus lineis FHIWER, del. (after C.A.G-) U yee) THELYMITRA CUCULLATA, 1. sp. A a plant, about natural size. B, a flower from the side, enlarged. Note the “hooded” dorsal sepal. C, a flower from the front, enlarged. - D, E, F, greatly enlarged views of the column, from the front, the back, and the side, respectively. (After drawings by C. A. Gardner). Page 72 Hon. Editor: W. WORTH 4 Ward St. Willoughby, N.S.W. Phone: JA 1533 Victoria: R. BRUCE HOGG James Miller &.Co. Pty. Ltd. Dawson St. Brunswick N.10 PERSONNEL AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 ASSOCIATES: re Queensland:. South Australia: L. C, HOME R. J. LANGDON 26 Taylor St. 8 Regent Street Buranda S.2 Millswood Brisbane South Australia Orchid Societies in the States not represented above are invited to nominate a representative. Western Australia and Tasmania are invited to nominate a representative or correspondent to the A.O.R, , punctatis rubro-purpureis ornati. Anthera porro inclinans, obtusa. : A slender plant up to 45 cm high. Lamina of the leaf very short, similar to the 2 cauline bracts above it. Flowers few, small, pale yellow with numerous purple splashes and spots, their subtending bracts short and acute. Perianth segments 8-9 mm long, obtuse. Dorsal sepal very broad, conspicuously cucullate. Lateral sepals spreading, a little smaller than the broad petals. Labellum oblong, obtuse, 7-8 mm long. Column rather large for the’ genus; its wing erect and simply bi-lobed, the lobes extending higher than the anther, entire and obtuse, form- ing an obtuse sinus behind the middle of the anther, externally marked with reddish-purple dotted lines. Anther inclined forward, obtuse. Young’s Siding, Stirling Range area, Western Australia, August 1945: Miss D. Southerland. (Type in the State Herbarium at Perth). Cultural Notes L. C. HOME, @ September.—This month marks the beginn-— ing of the annual cycle for many orchids, as now they will be starting into new growth. Re- potting, where necessary, should be dealt with as soon as new growths appear. Watering will be more frequent, but care should be taken to ensure that plants are not in a damp condition at night as frosts are not unknown in September. Plants which are showing buds may be forced by small application of liquid manure and in- creasing light and warmth, or may be kept back by keeping them cool, shaded and dry. Spray with nicotine sulphate to kill off scale, etc., which has grown during Winter months. Watch out for slugs and lay baits. October.—yYour plants should now be gett- ing into full growth, Repot in all cases where the compost is soggy or sour and when repotting be careful to wash all the old compost away from the roots before putting in fresh compost. The nearest relative of this somewhat anoma- lous Thelymitra appears to be another Western Australian species, T.psammophila Andr. Like that of T.cucullata, the column-wing of T.- psammophila does not form a hood over the anther with its middle lobe, which is very short and rounded, In the new species, however, it is entirely wanting, its place being occupied by the obtuse sinus between the two lateral lobes. It would be possible, in fact, to regard the column- wing of T.cucullata as simply furcate, without any true lateral lobes corresponding to those of other species. Perhaps the most striking feature of the new species is that from which its name has been bestowed—the very broad, cucullate dorsal sepal, which forms a large hood over the anther as if to supply the protection denied to it by the column-wing. The leaf also is very distinctive, having the character of a mere cauline bract. i for Queensland Buranda, @. Watering may be steadily increased. Submerge the pots occasionally and if desired a little liquid manure may be added to the water in which the pots are submerged. Keep a sharp lookout for slugs, Orchid beetles, cockroaches, grasshoppers and crickets, Constant care and spraying will help to prevent the attacks of scale, thrip and ~red spider. Watch for scale under the sheaths of Cattleyas. November.—With the Summer beginning to make itself felt, copious watering is. now necessary, particularly on hot dry days. Most Orchids are now in full growth—keep them moving. Application of liquid manure, in reason, will ensure vigorous growth, Pay attention to lighting—give your plants the maximum amount of light, but take care to avoid sunburn through glass. Slugs, thrip, Orchid beetles and other pests are busy this month, so beware. Spray frequently to avoid scale. eartere AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 73 An Orchid Garden in Launceston, Tasmania 7 Rev. H. M. R. RUPP, Northbridge, N.S.W. Stee readers who are interested in our native Pies yen like to hear what a young Launces- ae Athusiast, Neil Burrows, is doing in the 'y of growing these plants at his own home. ae as ee corresponding with me for several cas 4 and I can testify both to his enthusiasm nd his keen powers of observation. He has eos a new species of Thelymitra on the Citic iver; a possibly new Prasophyllum; a and la previously unknown beyond N.S.W.; _\many other “treasures of the bush.” hoes en the Editor of this journal visited my eo Mei I showed him a photograph fies eil’s Orchid Garden,” and, as is ee. ae of Editors, he immediately sug- ststed that I might provide something for the sen noe on the subject. I therefore inflicted ant el a sort of questionnaire (terrible seu and I think it will be a good idea to ae his answers to my questions in practic- ay own words. He explains that he has not fee to certain questions I put about raising - mute Orchids from seed, because as yet he a ae peace in mastering the difficulties era direction; but he is studying ways and Hee and personally I have no doubt that in ae perserverance will be rewarded. He “© ‘s, in presenting his answers, that his as Bed” is 70 square feet in area; and Onin gtows other wild flowers with the —-alds to make the conditions as natural as Possible, _ Here, then, ’Nswers;—_ are my questions and Neil’s Ona did you begin to cultivate native hese e 1939, first of all in tins. My Orchid ro Was started in 1942. ne they all from what we might call _ -aunceston-Tamar River area? gas ee of them come from this area: a few ees pen more distant places; e.g., Dendrob- Sipe olatum from the East Coast, and Pfero- e *$ cycnocephala from Stanley, in the opposite ~FECtion, - ie ! h ef 2—Do they include species from both moun- “ns and lowlands? NG, pr ay rah yen When preparing your Orchid Bed, did Dinas any special methods? Poor ie —Yes. I placed on top of the old garden Neil Burrows’ unique Orchid garden. soil a 2 inch layer of small ‘pieces of brick, — basalt rock, charcoal, etc., to provide drainage, and to separate the old soil from that in which my Orchids are planted. Above this “drainage layer” from 44 inches to 6 inches of bush soil was added, and the Orchids were put into this. For Orchids which like .wet conditions, like Thelymitra venosa and Cryptostylia subulata, 1 placed a sheet of iron with a few holes in it, immediately under the drainage layer, and this portion of the bed I made perfectly flat. Q.—Do you always bring some of the earth the Orchids were growing in, when transplant- ing them from the bush? aN A.—No, not always. I use either soil from’the same area or a mixture of soils from different — localities, The Orchid bed has many pure soils and soil mixtures; bush soils only are’used. QDo different species require different ” Kinds of soil? Page 74 ‘A.—Most of our Orchids will grow in the same type of soil, particularly in brown iron- stone. Many of the Greenhoods are not particu- lar, and do well in a variety of soils. Others, however, are not so adaptable. Pterostylis grandiflora and its namesake Thelymitra grandi- — flora, for instance, will thrive only in chocolate ironstone soils. Q.—What have you found the easiest species to grow? : : A.—Pterostylis pedunculata, curta, and nutans; Caladenia Patersonii, clavigera, and ..carnea; Eriochilus cucullatus. Q.—On the average are the flowers in your Orchid bed larger than, smaller than, or the same size as those in the bush? Dat A.—On the average, species of P#erastylis are larger; but most of the others are about the same size. : Q.—Can you give us a list of the Orchids you are growing successfully? A.—Thelymitra ixioides, nuda, grandiflora, -pauciflora, retecta, rubra, venosa, and cyanea: Diuris maculata and pedunculata: Prasophyllum fuscum and patens: Chiloglottis reflexa: Acian- thus exsertus and reniformis: Eriochilus cucull- atus: Caladenia Patersonii, clavigera, angustata, dimorpha, and carnea: Glossodia major: Crypto- stylis subulata: Pterostylis concinna, curta, AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 nutans, nana, pedunculata, foliata, decurva; grandiflora, longifolia, and parviflora. Q.—Have you ever tried to, grow. the, Hya- cinth Orchid, Dipodium punctatum? ~ A.—Yes, but I have had no success. Q.—Are the plants in your Orchid bed repro- ducing themselves, either by seed or by the vegetative method? ' A.—Species which are found growing in “colonies,” e.g., Pterostylis curta, P.peduncu- lata, etc., are rapidly increasing by the vegeta- tive method. Other Orchids, such as Glossodia and Diuris, also increase, but very slowly, by this method. My Orchids also produce seed, but up to the present there has been no increase of plants by this means. Well now, I feel sure we shall agree that the Burrows Orchid Garden in Launceston deserves all the encouragement we can give it. Its owner is doing his utmost to preserve and propagate our dainty little terrestrials, which, alas! are in so many areas disappearing rapidly before the ruthless march of settlement. The photograph of Neil’s treasures shows what can be done in quite a short time by studying the conditions and requirements of these humble but fascinat- ing members of the great Orchid family. Good luck to you, Neil—and thank you for telling us so much about your hobby. The Vegetation Propogation of Cymbidiums by use of Bottom Heat R. W. ROSEWARNE, Heidelberg, Vic. @ No doubt most of you have seen hot boxes or hot beds in use or are using them. I use two types of hot box. 1. A box heated by Electricity. This box is similar to the propagating tank used by nursery- men. When building such a box, first select a corner of the glass house and build a bench. By using a corner you ill save two sides, using the walls of your glass house. Assume the box you build is 5 ft. long, 3 ft. wide, and 1 ft. deep. You will then need a water tray 3 inch smaller than the size of the box you propose to build, by 4 inches deep. A copper tray is preferred, but galvanised iron will do, although it is not so durable. An immersion element of 350-500 watts on a 230 volt circuit is satisfactory for the above sized tank or one a little larger. The size of the element does not matter provided you have a thermostat to control it. The smaller the element, the longer the water takes to heat to the required temperature, and naturally, vice versa for a larger one. A copper sheath is sup- plied with the element. This sheath is soldered into the side of the tray so that water will be all round it. If you choose timber for the sides, New Zealand kauri-pine is as good as any, but make certain you brace the box thoroughly, otherwise the-timber will warp with the heat. Having the tray and sides in position, cover the tray with galvanized iron, 26 gauge or there- abouts, make holes in the iron about 4 inches apart with a 3 inch nail, then put in 4-6 inches of compost, old tan bark or finely chopped fibre with a little sand. Do not have the compost too heavy; otherwise the heat will not rise. You will also have to make provision for re-filling the water tray by means of a piece of copper pipe in one corner, or otherwise through one of the sides, in fact, anywhere convenient, to allow you to fill with the hose. An immersion type thermo- | FPR ae a OT EES a. Le A USTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946- ree Z fitted into the compost and set to the ° ca heat, 85 degrees-90 degrees being the eer tute I find most successful. To keep an plies pie cect on temperature of the compost, ‘esi ny thermometer in the compost to a stiles inches. Then heat the box for a sek Ne days and keep a check on tempera- a aes putting any plants or bulbs in. ee qaind the above box very economical, 4 8 ie out 2/6 per week for electricity. wi : other box I use is 15 ft. long by 3 ft. ou nd 15 inches deep, having 10 inches of ae This box is heated by a grid of three ihe a ot water pipes, 6 inches apart, fed trom ae wer, and is built exactly the same as the emrous box, the only difference being the grid ees in place of a water tray. peenesnene both boxes for two years for > Barony I preter the electrically-heated box the following reasons: — (a) Bulbs shoot quicker and grow stronger. >) Compost remains moist due to moisture Using from the water tray, whereas with the other box all moisture has to be sup- (c) Plied by means of the hose. The latter box does not maintain as uniform a temperature as does the electric One, the places close to the pipes being otter than elsewhere. (It has been Proved that the best way to distribute (4) heat evenly is through water). Spring being the best time to propagate, 1s usually the time when the boiler is Not in use, whereas the electric box having thermostatic control saves any labour lighting and stoking fires and needs Thad ee no attention. itis you instal a box off your hot water Wise oie will need a controlling valve, other- a u may find the box will get too hot. The plun Pepa uese for which I use this box is to divide ‘ pots of plants which have just been dhapect aa repotted. Up to 10 inch pots are stm oe this way. Maybe, after repotting a bulke pee have been disappointed “to see your ay rivel, whereas with the use of bottom bulbs ioe action commences immediately and Rae Ree plump. If you have a plant with Phinge ; no roots at all, do not repot it, but m Be in the hot box and pot it when new oie ae Leave the plants in the box for Ue the ve weeks. To propagate bulbs I always Stated, electric box for the reasons previously amie the bulbs in compost to a depth of bee - Inch, sufficient to cover the eyes at the © of the bulbs, You will be surprised to find Page 75 how quickly the bulbs will shoot, and almost. as quickly roots will begin to grow. As soon as these roots are about 1 inch long. pot in a 3 or 4 inch pot according to the size of the bulb. -Then plunge the pot again in the compost to the top of the pot. The reason I do not pot the bulb at the start is that I have found that bulbs shoot more quickly when not in pots, and they. occupy less space. As soon as the shoot has. a: good root system, sever it from the bulb. Pot it in a suitable size pot and plunge the pot in bottom heat for five or six weeks, then remove it to the bench. You should get three or more shoots from a back bulb in this way, but you will notice that each succeeding shoot is weaker than the previous one. ! In dealing with divisions and back bulbs in this way, you do not have to worry about dis- turbing a plant; in fact, you can almost do anything, even to watering it at once without any danger of rotting the roots or causing a check to the growth. A word on severing a shoot—do not cut right through between it and the bulb, partly cut through, then use knife as a lever—the shoot will leave the bulb without any damage. If you cut right through, you sometimes cut the tissue of the bulb and thus destroy the remaining dormant eyes. The difference of growth betwen this method and the one without bottom heat leaves no compart- son. It has been estimated by leading growers. that with bottom heat you are over twelve months in advance from the back bulb stage to flowering sized plants. I have no hesitation in recommending bottom heat to anyone desirous of propagating Cymbidiums, and I consider that growing back bulbs this way is well worth the expense and time. Most growers agree that plants imported take two years to establish and acclimatise. With bottom heat we should at least halve this period, as with bottom heat root. action commences immediately, thus giving plants a flying start. However, readers should be warned to allow plants imported by boat to have their usual period of recovery before plunging in a hot box. As soon as the plant shows the slightest sign of activity is the time to plunge it. Plants imported by air mail could be plunged at once. Dest aed As an example, several friends brought me some growths and back bulbs that would not make root, and I was very happy in some in- stances to show them roots commencing to grow in from 48 to 72 hours, after they had been trying to do same for 12 months or more. Other Orchid genera do not appreciate bottom heat like Cymbidiums. Page 76 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Cypripediums of 1946 RICHARD DART, @ This slipper and early flowering Orchid display was most instructive. Far larger and better than any we have had previously; a most kindly feeling emanated from everyone and I am most grateful to the expert who helped me to understand more about our little friends. To the writer Cypripediums always seem se- date and prim, you couldn’t think of taking any liberties with them; and they put one in mind of Georgy, Porgy of pudding and pie fame. Last year at this time I referred to their increasing popularity and there is no doubt that this public esteem has been more than maintained in the intervening twelve months; Cattleyas and Cymbidiums have also increased in public favour, but not, I think, at the same rate. This public approval seems to come from the gentler sex by whom they are thought much of. . The average man seems to like more. blatant colours; the more gentle and refined, not so clearly defined shades find favour with the women. folk. na Well the room is filling, so I must look around for, copy; and looking round I run right into Mr. Editor, he looks serious and informs me that as we are over the deadline, he must have the copy by the week-end and that it must be short as the available space is already filled up. Just in the offing, my gaze alights on a lady and an idea comes’ into my mind—since she knows Orchids from A to Z (she ought to, since she has bought thousands of flowers—not for herself, but mostly for other people) her opinion regarding our display will be highly useful; but alas Mrs. Betty Osborne has an important eneagement, can only stop for a very short period, but she agrees to make a few brief notes for us, so they are just a few from one corner of the room—-‘‘Cymbidiums.” » Emperor—Colouring lovely for day or night wear: Guelda—perfect for ladies’ evening wear (I think these two are Mr. Hamilton’s). “Cypri- pediums”—Belaclava and Donald Ayres—perfect commercial slippers in colour and formation (I think Wally Fahey’s). Golden Moon—(probably ° Reg Richard’s) a most unusual, lovely colour, only fault a poor pouch. Mrs. Osborne adds in her brief note “This exhibition shows a great advancement in slipper Orchids from a com- mercial point of view.” ~ I now run right into somebody I am badly in need of—a real expert and as he has no display Waveriey, N.S. W. himself he agrees to help me in making certaif selections. : W. PALMER.—Very nice display of Cyps fourteen in all, showing a good range of colouf the best Embros beautiful colour and wide petals. Another beautifully coloured one ‘Dillargo” both with long stems and well grown, several of the best of the ‘Old Brigade” were included: Cymb. Albania a small red striped floweh attractive, R. DART.—Three cymbidiums, Lacy—First flowering, nice little plant; Eburneo-giganteum and Pearl Mag. First flowering, nice yellow: fair shape, the expert liked it. "I Mrs. GRACE MITCHELL.—Cymb. Ad (Albanense and Schlegeli) two spikes of pink flowers, expert says “‘lip” large and handsome. A. BEGG.—Cymbidium Unknown: Nicé yollew with lip heavily marked red. | C. CAMBOURN. — Cypripedium Cappi _ Magna—possibly the best. CARRINGTON DEANE.—nice display o Cyps. and Cymbs, Cyps. Loudwater and Mildred Hunter No. 1 outstanding, also Moira. Cym- bidiums Guelda (15 flowers) Cygnus 29 flower and Charm. Var. Elegance, 19 flowers and buds: The four cymbidiums in large 12 inch pots. FRED WHITE.—The most outstanding flower was a Laelia-Cattleya, unfortunately i parentage and name are both unknown, mos! beautiful colouring, the purset pink imaginable C. C. HILDERBRANDT. — His best af “Lady Mona and Diana Broughton” and ‘Luca: rola.” LEWIS COHEN.—The most conspicuous # this fine collection were Perseus F.C.C. R.H.9: which had two flowers and Atlantis Var. Re Admiral also Wellesley. Losing the expert here for the second time, ! approach a handsome young lady in a brow? ensemble and ask if she knows anything abou! Orchids, she pleads ignorance—doesn’t know thé difference between a Cypripedium and a: cys bidium—I take her to John Bisset’s interestin8 display of early cymbids. and ask her to select what she thinks the best; she quickly picks ov! “Euterpe? (that wasn’t a hard one though) placed before Mr. Spurways Cyps. she select Dicker X Grace Darling. re W. FAHEY.—This exhibit and Mr. L. Cohe®® were probably the best of the Cyps. The expett AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 ee me here and selcts Perseus, Stamperland, Onald Ayres and Balaclava. h R. RICHARDS.—I didn’t think that Reg nad aS good an exhibit as last year. I missed atgrave Festivity.” ‘‘Anita and Perseus” are pao “Radeline” unique. ‘“Thrums’” good, but Ouble sepals “Golden Moon” small one lovely Colour, labellum small. C. CARTER.—His best seemed to me “Sun- may” and Harefield Hall. 1 ue BURNS.—Only one, Cymbidium “Magog” thought this one of the loveliest early cymbids. . 4d ever seen, a lovely rose pink and spotted Istinctly all over, good lip same colour and not et Shape, some good judges agreed with my Pinion others did not. Ope HAMILTON.—Two beautiful cymbids. ™Mperor” and ‘“tGuelda.” Mr, MEECH.—‘Louis SanderX Redshank” (nice rose colour) and “Magog” two nice cym- “ds. Cyp. “Draco” good. we SPURWAY.—B.C. ‘‘Ozoa Majestic’’ nice our. Cyps. Baldur and Cappa Magna. A nice Collection of plants. Ree NEWMAN.—Cyp. Akeley not fully out, ta most promising one. re JOHN BISSET. — Nice collection of early combids, “Sparta and Roger Sander,” “Kestrel,” Uterpe,” and “Joan.” C. MORRIS.—Cyp. Juliet (quaint). yb, HEMMING.—Cyp. “Grace Darling” this as his best, ivan SASSO.—One ‘of the finest displays of 'scellaneous Orchids seen in this city. Cyps. a St. Peter Var. Girrahween, Atlantis, Well- “Rab. (albino) and Cavalier. Brasso-Cattleya abig?? Me ae that the Judging Committee had recom- sie the granting of a bronze medal to this Wit and a certificate of merit to Walter *y and Lewis Cohen for their display of YPripediums, always find peoples’ impressions of our shows °st interesting. t. C. HILDEBRANDT says ‘Easily the exhins Pet show we have had yet, more large fe its than we have ever had, quality of cyps. ‘tanding, their size, colour and shape very ae liked Mr. L. Sasso’s general exhibit best ME most,’ mee LES. HAWLEY says ‘Much better show last year. The general display was very and K Mr, Fahey’s cyps. a splendid lot Floralies ay Kay most impressive. I liked the set up a delightful pink. I was not surprised — € quality of Mr. Fahey’s cyps. appealed to Page 77 of Mr. Cohen’s plants and they were an excepti- onally fine lot. Mr. Hamilton’s Guelda was a fine flower. It was a very enjoyable evening. Mr. CARRINGTON DEANE.—I was most impressed by the increased interest in Cypriped- iums and the show. The setting up of the exhibits and their size was a big improvement, and a lot of care was taken to display them to the best advantage. I liked Mr. Sasso’s general display best. Charm Var Elegance 1 thought looked the best of the Cymbids, and of the Cyps. Mr. Fahey’s “‘Stamperland” and Mr. Sasso’s “Ayot St. Peter Var. Girrahween” were remark- ably good flowers, also Mr. Dave Hemmings “Grace Darling.”? There was a lovely friendly feeling that made the evening most enjoyable. COELOGYNE MASSANGEANA Flowers 24}ins. in diameter, cream with brown markings. Species from «Malaya. Grown by B. Parry Williams, Maroubra, N.S.W. Photograph by S. Martin. ® Pbhotographs.—Photographs should be accompanied by: (1) The correct name of the Orchid; (2) The growers name; (3) The photographer’s name; (4) Three or four lines of description, size, and colour of flower or other points of interest. Page 78 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Our Good Fortune We have been fortunate in being able to purchase a large portion of the choicest plants in the world-famous orchid collection of Ronaele Farms, Elkins Park, Pennsylvania. It is our belief that the quality of hybrids produced here represents the very highest breeding accomplishments in American orchid circles. Such fine things as Lc. Jane Dane, Cattleya S. E. Endicott, Le. Helen Wilmer, and a host of other internationally famous hybrids originated at Ronaele Farms. The record of the trustees meeting of the American Orchid Society over the past ten yars has ben punctuatd with awards given the plants exhibited from this fine collection. . We have been able to secure pieces of practically all the finest exhibition and stud plants, and it is our sincere belief that we are not being immodest when we state that we feel we now have a Cattleya collection equal in quality to the very finest collections in the world. In order to make room for these plants and others coming from England and the European Continent, we are currently offering some of our finest Cattleya cut-flower stock for sale at reasonable prices. We accept payment for plants in pounds, payable in London, or in dollars payable in the United States. CLINT McDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS BOX CHATTANOOGA, sqrraines U.S.A. CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE JOHN LINES AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 Page 79 2mm gti z TOT 1 = FOR SALE ALL BOOKSELLERS A Cultural Table of Orchidaceous Plants by J. MURRAY COX This is one of the most ambitious works on Orchid Culture ever published; no book of this description has been produced anywhere since 1932. It is long overdue. The information contained in its 400 odd pages is right up to the minute, and there are nearly 80 illustrations, 13 of them in full colour. The Table is comprehensive, embracing most genera and species known in a world-wide range of Orchids. Orchids are described and information given as to origin, natural conditions and the most suc- cessful method of cultivation. There is a complete index which includes the correct botanical nomenclature as well as synonyms, so that, where Orchids are known by their popularly used names, they can be easily traced and referred to in the text. In addition, there is a useful glossary of botanical terms. The Table, in fact, might aptly be regarded as an encyclopaedia of orchids which should be in the library of every Orchid lover. Price per copy: 4 guineas. venues MMe Published by THE SHEPHERD PRESS YURONG STREET, SYDNEY N.S.W., AUSTRALIA = 5 7 OTT ATT nti TTT CT TTT Page 80 CYMBIDIUMS HODGINS ORCHIDS 54 PASCOE CRESCENT, ESSENDON (VIC.) AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 "“A"'—For the Beginner. LISTS OF CYMBIDIUMS ON REQUEST. "B"—For the Advanced Grower. EXHIBITORS AT VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB SHOW, MELBOURNE TOWN HALL, SEPT. 18, 19, 20 BOOKS ORCHID CULTURE IN CEYLON. Edited by Soysa, 1943, coloured plates, etc. This delightful book is of interest to Orchid Growers, dealing with hybridization, diseases and pests, fragrance, etc. Orchids dealt with can be grown in Victoria and New South Wales, £2/15/- VICTORIAN ORCHIDS (Dickens), 2/6, post, 2d. THE ORCHIDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES (Rupp), 9/-, post 4d., soft cover edition, 6/-. AN INTRO- DUCTION TO THE STUDY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ORCHIDS (Rogers), 1/6, post, 3d. . Stocks of second-hand works on Orchids, Natural History, Early Aust., Art, Collecting, etc. Catalogue on application. Also available, special list of new Gardening Books N. H. SEWARD PTY. LTD. 457c BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE, C.1. MALAYAN ORCHIDS & EXOTIC For a 2-kilo crate of ten assorted Malayan Orchids, including air freight to Sydney—£5. Other Orchids ask for price list. Exchange can : t also be considered. THE GEM NURSERY (Established 1934) 172, MOULMEIN ROAD, SINGAPORE Cable: ''Gemnur" Phone: 7542 Agents for the “Australian Orchid Review” in Great Britain Messrs. B. F. Stevens & Brown Limited, New Ruskin House, 28-30 Little Russell Street, LONDON, W.C.1, are carrying stocks of current and back numbers of the ‘Australian Orchid Review.” Readers in Great Britain should communicate with them regarding theif supplies. BOOKS ON ORCHIDS Cacti and other Succulent plants, new and used. Also other Botanical books. Send for catalog. Payments handled locally. ""*BOOK-MARK"' 825 Elyria Drive, Los Angeles, 31, Calif., U.S.A. Auction Sale of Orchids SYDNEY TOWN HALL (Basement) OCTOBER 3rd, 1946, commencing 11 a.m. Surplus plants from the collection of ROBERT C. DIXSON, Esq., Castle Hill. Mr. Dixson will donate the proceeds to the N.S.W. HOME FOR INCURABLES. Plants on Exhibition October Ist and 2nd. ADMISSION EACH DAY BY SILVER COIN AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 The Orchid Society of N.S.W. Meets every month on the last Thursday. Next Meetings: THURSDAY, SEPT. 26th. Y.M.C.A., 325 Pitt Street, Sydney. THURSDAY, OCT 31st. Royal Empire Society, 15 Bligh St., Sydney. THURSDAY, NOV. 28th. Y.M.C.A., 325 Pitt Street, Sydney. Patron: President: Hon. Secretary: His Honour E. A. HAMILTON B. JESSOP FUDGE H. i ee 16 Hercules St. 18 Hercules St. Ooyong,” Hastings Roa ‘S.W. WARRAWEE, NS.W. CHATSWOOD, N.S.W. CHATSWOOD, N Hon, Treasurer: Hon. Asst. Treasurer: Hon. Editor: JOHN BISSET W. FAHEY W. WORTH 48 Wareemba Street, 1 Woolcott Street 4 Ward Street ABBOTSFORD, N.S.W. WAVERTON, N.S.W. WILLOUGHBY, N.S.W. *Phone WA1124 *Phone XB3795 Phone: JA1533 e oo. The Queensland Orchid Society Patron: His Excellency, Col. the Rt. HON. SIR LESLIE ORME WILSON, P.C., G.C.S.I., G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., D.S.O, President: Hon. Secretary: Hon. Treasurer: E. J. BEARD T. C. HARVEYSON J. LEWIS 6 L’Estrange Terrace 381 Queen St. G.P.O. Box 2002 X KelvinwGrove BRISBANE BRISBANE ; BRISBANE The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow:— FRIDAY, 13th SEPT. FRIDAY, 11th OCT. FRIDAY, 8th NOV. Meeting Place: Miniature Rifle Range Building, Boundary Street, Brisbane. Meetings held on the Second Friday of each month. Visitors are welcome. The Victorian Orehid Club Meets on the third Monday in each month (January excepted), in the Indepen- ent Church Hall, Collins Street, Melbourne, at 8 p.m. Prospective members welcome, The dates of the next meetings of the Club are as follow: MONDAY, 9th SEPT. | MONDAY, 21st OCT. | MONDAY, 18th NOV. President: Vice-President: Hon. Secretary: R. VICK B. R. HODGINS G. E. FLOYD 32 Northcote Avee., 547 Moreland Road, 25 Grandview Road CANTERBURY, E.7. ESSENDON, W.5. BRIGHTON, S.5. *Phone WF2365 *Phone FU5270 *Phone, X4996 Hon. Treasurer: A. C. DREDGE, 169 Cochrane Street, Elsternwick, S.4. The Orchid Club of South Australia Meets on 2nd Thursday each month in the Justices Chambers, Pirie St., Adelaide. Visitors are welcome. THUR., 12th SEPT. THUR., 10th OCT. THUR., 14th NOV. Patron: President: ‘Hon Secretary-Treasurer: TY , F. H. De ROSE R. L. SMITH, fe Premier, Hon. T. PLAYFORD Edwin Terrace 17 Tavistock St., Norton’s Summit. GILBERTON ADELAIDE. Wholly set up, printed and published in Australia by Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney W. Worth, Hon. Editor, i AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, SEPTEMBER, 1946 The 1946 IG@OTION: BALI Excitement will run high in Chattanooga for several weeks preceding Friday, August 30, the date of the 14th Annual Cotton Ball, a premier social event ‘in the South. All southern society will be wondering who will be selected King - and Queen of The Cotton Ball. Belles throughout the South who have been fortunate enough to receive invitations will make their debuts at The Cotton Ball. Miss Marian Patterson, lovely daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Harold Patterson, of H. Patterson & Sons, Bergenfield, New Jersey, has been chosen Orchid Princess, . to reign with the King and Queen of the Ball. We venture to predict that the bouquet she will carry will exceed in splendour anything ever carried by a real princess. - Readers of the Australian Orchid Review, and all who are interested in the orchid cult are invited to attend. We have arranged for reserved seats and hotel accommodations for the orchid fraternity. Any overseas visitor will receive special consideration. In 1947 we are expect- _ ing a number from overseas and the Orchid Princess is to be Miss Betty Cooke, daughter of Sir William Cooke, of Hempstead-Norris, England. You are invited to join the American Orchid Society. Dues of $5 annually include 12 issues of the Society's bulletin, a fine magazine devoted to the orchid cult. Remit to us by personal check, bank draft or money order at rate of $5 payable in U.S.A., or £1:5:0 payable in England. We will also recom- mend you for membership in the Orchid Society of California, who publish a splendid quarterly bulletin. Dues $2.50 a year, payable in the United States, or 12/6 payable in England. CLINT MeDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS ; BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE JOHN LINES A. h-} a eg WA ustralian__ > DEC, ISSUE, 1946 Published Quarterly Vol. 11. No. 4 [ THE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE ORCHID SOCIETY OF NEW SOUTH WALES (INCORPORATING THE NEWCASTLE ORCHID CIRCLE), THE QUEENSLAND ORCHID SOCIETY AND THE VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB, Page ii AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 me a Yr se te tO ORCHIDS of Quality * C. H. DEANE Girrahween Nurseries — -190 WOLLONGONG RD., ARNCLIFFE SYDNEY, N.S.W. - TEL. LX1106 os ee a SS Se nee ee Fle ems en am se sh sess Ly Advertising ee the element of time is one to be reckoned with—as it has important underlying effects, particularly on the volume of future business. Efficient process engraving is an effective ally when up against time." Turning to the fine art studios at 89 William Street, you are sure of RESULTS not EXCUSES in the hour of urgency. A free enterprise, not process engraving as a sideline, a progressive organisation noted for the consistent quality of its work—maintained by ..... PHOTO-ENGRAVING ART COMPANY PROPRIETARY LIMITED en ed es | SOT Resco abe TEs tres 1s Yes DOING -Ency, On Time and in Step with Advertising an - SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT TO ORCHID’ ENTHUSIASTS John Bisset has pleasure in announcing the publication of Two Books on Orchid Culture which are invaluable aids to Orchid enthusiasts THE CHARM OF GROWING - ORCHIDS FOR EVERYBODY : ORCHIDS ; by R. Bruce Hogg by P. A. Gilbert Over 200 pages with 32 pages of 232 pages of Cultural Notes and Photos Illustrations. Price 21/- (Post I/- extra) Price 25/- (Post I/- extra) JOHN BISSETT ee Fe ate inarela—saa906 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW Volume II DECEMBER, 1946 No. 4 The author of each article is responsible for the facts and opinions expressed therein. CONTENTS After-care of Seedlings mh ie, nid RE Ree oe ne 82 Annual Spring Exhibition, 1946 sn Ue std «Zam Cinch Pea ant 89 Cultural Notes for South Australia © 0 0 we bi Me nee sede 99. Cymbidiums at Caulfield a eeu eta, a a4 BAM ine 92 From the Editor’s Mail Bag bso hops Sete Sage, ae a ae TO Nitrogen Bacteria and Orchid Seedlings _..... eg Ns Bae, ical 102 Notes for Novices . rats ik iin 98 Orchids for. Beginners ee aca) tae Wik eee Sheet B dt 95 South Australia’s First Orchid Exhibition Ratt aR ML Rely Tread ie 88 tie iin Beas Mies ae ae a ged Ak hs note nL Treatment of Imported Orchids ah aes nals zea eg mm glsees ww 104 Vanda Sanderiana i... satay Pee Mate ea Ms res EN) amen 86 Victorian Cultural Notes ae ste ya BRS thks eee ae rae 97, INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS Cymbidium, Dorchester __... TY Pome arn i eae phan 87 Cymbidium, Tangie Ae VANE cr tk el eae. ened tess 96 Cypripedium, Golden Emblem... ote Lid HS ieee A es tea ile Sone 87 Cypripedium, Insigne, ‘“‘Harefield Hall’ aes pened eB ron ey a pt 95 Mistletoe Seedling 92 © sme sae ee re Rete Bic We ctierapa Ct ote 105 Mr. Einar Petersen’s Cymbidiums tek oss 233 done Male wie 94 Vanda, Coerulea desi tee. cae nba Rete Pee nee ae fed 93 Vanda, Sanderiana taf pe Pee es eee See eas er ee 95 Subscription Rates: Australia and New Zealand, 6/- per annum; Overseas, 6/- sterling per Mnum. Post free. Payable to Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney. CARE YouR ORCHIDS with PESTOXOL” (LIQUID) “PESTOXOL" is specially suited for the treatment of Orchids and has been proven by actual tests in the bush-house and green-house. ‘PESTOXOL" destroys Scale, Thrips, Red Spider, Green,and Black Fly, Mealy Bug, Caterpillar, Blight, etc., and is perfectly safe in use not only on Orchids, but on Ferns and tender green- Ouse plants. ; 10oz. Bottles ......... 2/6 each. 4 gallon Jars ........ 16/6 each All Orchid Dealers and Seedsmen F. H. FAULDING & CO. LTD. georcan'ane sypwer and Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Brisbane, and London: (Eng.) Page 82 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 The After-Care of Seedlings Information from Overseas ALAN H. MANN, Melbourne, Vie. — @ Having recently returned from service Over- seas with the R.A.A.F. I believe that an account of some of my experiences whilst visiting Orchid growers overseas during my leave periods may be of interest to other growers here. Soon. after my arrival in England I received a message through Mr. Jessop, Curator of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens to the effect that growers here were finding great difficulty in keeping seedlings alive after transplanting them from flasks of aseptic solutions and asking me to obtain whatever information was available for the guidance of growers here. I found on enquiry that the large growers overseas experi- ence not the slightest difficulty at this stage and they expressed surprise that there should be any difficulty here, especially since climatic con- ditions are so much more favourable. I will come back to this later and endeavour to assign reasons for the difficulties which some growers here have experienced. First I shall describe one of the places I visited. In September, 1943, I was in Canada and was able to make a trip to New York on leave. Whilst there I obtained an introduction to Mr. Beckert, President of Thomas Young Nurseries Inc. of Bound Brook New Jersey, through the courtesy of Mrs. June Hamilton Rhodes. Thomas Young Nurseries Inc. owns the largest concern of its kind in the world. They produce Cattleyas of all kinds for the cut-flower market and they grow their own plants from seed, paying special attention to the crossing of their best strains in order to produce blooms of the greatest market value. At Mr. Beckert’s invitation I went up to Bound. Brook where I was received most cordi- ally and taken over the entire estate. This was a special privilege because visitors are not gener- ally encouraged at places like this as they dis- organise the whole system and take up a tre- mendous amount of the staff’s time. The glasshouses are very large and arranged rather in the fashion of a housing estate with roads running between the blocks and pipe-lines ‘running from a boiler-house serving the whole estate. Temperatures are carefully controlled and in the Cattleya houses were about 72 degrees F. at the time of my visit. The floors of the houses were: of hard clay dressed with cinders well trodden in ot give a smooth surface and ample slope was provided for drainage. The floors were swept clean and no water was left lying about to induce a steamy atmosphere. As a result the air is very pleasant and sweet, per- haps a trifle on the dry side. There is a noticeable absence of mildew and moss and the plants appeared to make strong and rapid growth. About once a week the plants are watered, but in hot weather they are given a light overhead spray whenever necessary to reduce evaporation and cool the houses. The pots are of normal size filled to about one third with crocks and then topped with pure Osmunda fibre. This fibre grows naturally in the vicinity and is obtained whenever necess- ary, cut, and stacked in large sheds to be drawn upon as required. The fibre is packed down quite tightly into the pots giving a surface which is quite firm to the touch. In the houses the top surface of the fibre feels dry and one is inclined to the impression that they have not been gett- ing enough water, but, as Mr. Erikson, the head © grower, explained this is typical of the fibre used and is a very good thing since it discourages surface rooting and at the same time protects the lower levels from excessive evaporation. It has been found by experiment that the fibre underneath does not dry out completely in a week if it is packed tightly and kept out of the wind. The comparative dryness of the sur- face of the compost prevents excessive rooting as well as discouraging the growth of moss and fungus. Most of the Cattleyas grown have been raised from seed on the estate ,but some of the species are imported directly from South America since these are prolific producers of good cut flowers that are in constant demand. The favoured species are Mossae and Trianae. I will not go into the method of raising plants from seed because this subject has been dealt with in a most masterly way in A.O.R. in Mr. S. M. Hosking’s article on the Symbiotic and Non-Symbiotic Culture of Orchids published in the issue of June, 1941. It should suffice for me to say that the essentials of the Asymbiotic or Aseptic method are that sterilized seeds are placed in a jelly containing all the known food elements that are required by the germinating seed and growing seedling, in the form of salts soluble in water. The seed itself has insufficient AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 food to keep the embroyo alive long enough. Or it to become ‘established and the water- Soluble foods are absorbed by the growing plant Until it is large enough for transplanting. 1s is the method of germinating seed used at Thomas Young Nurseries Inc. The General anager, Mr, Babey, told me that over a period . Many years they have had complete success with this method. Records are kept showing the Parentage of each batch of seed, although in aed cases names have become meaningless Wing to the variety of forms and colours pro- Uced from each cross-pollination, The seed is pe hecr a month or more after the pod has split ei a it out thoroughly and samples of the seed ain en examined under a microscope to assess oa Paeportion of fertile seed to enable the grower €cide whether the seeds are worth planting. eeds up to twelve months old or more have ante Planted without noticeable change in re- meen in cases of doubt sample sowings are ti ao made and the seed examined again f the microscope to determine the percent- hee at are showing signs of swelling. Growers ae Foul be well advised not to throw away ee amerer old it may be, without examining eu ler the microscope or making a sample Ing first, he Culture used for the seeds is the normal Beaentrore type and is made up at the Nurs- ale es special laboratory, but without a great 2 aa elaborate equipment. Mr. Erikson prefers in an parallel sided test tubes of about 14 inches lameter rather than the usual flat-bottomed ie These tubes are kept in racks so that : Zh ee at an angle of about 30 degrees above te orizontal so presenting the maximum enue for the sowing of the seed. The advan- in in this type of tube is that when the seed- 88 are to be transplanted it is only necessary aoe a flat wire loop under the medium to oe ate it from the glass and then the entire this €nts of the tube slide out on to a tray. By egucans the seedlings can be separated without tha 4ge and it is a much less tedious process eth Picking them out of a flask with a wire ester planting, the tubes are placed in the dee Section of a glasshouse with a layer of brown paper to exclude strong light. At ‘ile Brook I saw a whole row of glasshouses St to capacity with rows of tubes on shelves é Wane from ground level to about 6 feet in fi Sat. I would not like to estimate the number ; Seedlings that were growing. The brown: sae Covering is removed from the seedlings “et a fortnight when they appear swollen and Page 83 greenish in colour. The paper is replaced by a layer of buttermuslin and gradually the light falling on the tubes in increased. The tubes are then left undisturbed for six or seven months by which time the plants will be about one inch in height although the average is considerably smaller. At this stage the plants have about three distinct leaves showing. POTTING OUT. The test tube has a great advantage over the flask at planting out time for the reason already explained. At Thomas Young Nurseries Inc. the whole process is done quickly and without and fuss or bother. Tubes are opened one at a time and the contents emptied on to a convenient tray. Small pots about 24 inches high are standing by already filled and packed hard with Osmunda fibre presenting a top rather like a firm mush- room. The fibre used for these small seedlings is somewhat finer than is used for the larger plants and is cut up into pieces about } inch or so in length. The fibre is carefully teased out by hand to remove all lumps and is then firmly pressed into the pots. The pots are soaked in water and the wet fibre is pressed down again and the pots placed on a wire mesh to dry off. Next day they are ready for planting. The individual plants are carefully separated and divided into groups according to size. About twenty-five are planted in one small pot so that all the plants will be uniform in size to prevent any weaker plants from being overcrowed by more vigorous rivals. The plants are inserted quite closely together, a hole being made first in the fibre with a pointed stick. After the plants are inserted the fibre is pressed down quite firmly around the roots. After planting, the pots are stood in a wire bottomed case with a glass top, again covered with a layer of butter muslin and kept out of the direct light in a warm part of one of the glass houses. Small blocks placed under the case admit air and allow excess water to escape. After a week the glass is raised slightly in the day-time to admit a circulation of air and later the glass is raised to several inches above the plants with wooden battens. The plants -should not be exposed to direct sunlight or rain. I saw many thousands of small pots contain- ing seedlings in the early stages of growth. The symmetrical arrangement of the seedlings in the pots would make any gaps caused by seedlings dying very obvious, but although I carefully examined a large number of the pots, I did not detect a single gap. I was assured that amongst Page 84 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 PERSONNEL Hon. Editor: ASSOCIATES: . W. WORTH Victoria: Queensland: South Australia: 4,4 Ward St. R. BRUCE HOGG LG. HOME R. J. LANGDON Willoughby, N.S.W. James Miller & Co. Pty. Ltd. 26 Taylor St. 8 Regent Street ' Phone: JA 1533 Dawson St. Buranda S.2 Millswood : Brunswick N.10 Brisbane South Australia WESTERN AUSTRALIA and TASMANIA are invited to nominate a representative or correspondent to the A.O.Ré the many thousands of seedlings raised every year hardly a single plant was lost. The same process is employed in repotting the seedlings when they outgrow the smaller pots. The best time to repot is at the end of the Winter just before the Spring growth develops. The number of plants in a pot is steadily re- duced at each repotting until each small pot contains but a single plant. From then on the plants are moved into slightly larger pots each year. As a result of my observations at this Nursery I have come to the conclusion that growers have experienced difficulty from two main causes. The first is the damp steamy atmosphere found in many glasshouses here and the second is the unsuitability of the compost employed. Getting down to fundamentals, we find that the root system of a small seedling like that of any other growing plant consists of members which have two main functions in relation to food. The first is to find the food and the second is to absorb it. It is perfectly obvious that plants cannot absorb solid food which is not soluble in water. The principle of Osmosis whereby the plant cells have the faculty of absorbing mineral solutions should be familiar to readers. A solid mass of growing vegetable matter consists, in reality, of an infinite number of individual cells. According to their situation in the structure of the plant, individual cells perform varied func- ‘tions and use a variety of mineral foods in the process. The stem of a plant can be regarded as a long chain of such cells passing chemicals up the stem as required by the leaves and in return passing prepared foods from the leaf factories to other parts of hte plant. This whole process depends on the roots absorbing the raw food materials in soluble form. In the case of an adult plant’ some of the foods are already avail- able in solution in the compost, but most of them are liberated as by-products of the activi- ties of soil bacteria on insoluble cellulose fibres contained in the compost. Such bacteria occur everywhere in Nature and provide a continual source of food at the roots. ‘The p.H. value of the compost controls the ’ growth of the bacteria and in turn the p.H. of acidity depends toa large extent on the compo- sition of the organic compounds present. Roots that find a favourable colony of bacteria will naturally grow and develop whereas other roots in unfavourable ground will fail to survive. In this way the plant tends to develop its root system in the most favourable ground available. It is necessary, however, for the survival of the plant that its root system should always have at least some of its roots established in a favourable medium. Orchid seedlings that have been grown in aseptic solution in a glass flask have had all their food provided for them and have been wholly deprived of the need for developing a root system designed to extract the requirements 0 the plant from a compost such as has been des- cribed. They have been given an ample supply of readily soluble foods and after transplanting must adapt themselves quickly to a new system of food gathering. Obviously, therefore, the most important thing is to plant them in 4 compost which already contains well established colonies of soil bacteria so that the requir food elements will be available straight away- It will be recollected that at Thomas Young Nurseries Inc. the seedlings on being removed from the nutrient jelly are separated and then planted straight away in fibre that has been taken from open country and then left stacked for some time. The seedlings should on no account be washed, but large lumps of jelly adhering to the roots should be removed. The vestiges of jelly clinging to the plant probably help it to survive for a few days until the roots have adjusted themselves to their new living conditions in the compost. The compost into which the seedlings are planted is already in 4 favourable condition for the soil bacteria. I understand that one Australian grower at least is unable to understand his repeated failures with young seedlings although as he declared he carefully washed all the plants as soon as they were removed from the flask and planted them in sterilized fibre. One would imagine that the seedlings planted under these conditions A USTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 as ae to survive for at least six months effect 4 e ong-suffering bacteria were able to dbne s te-entry into the compost and make oods available to the roots in soluble orm, ORCHIDS IN ENGLAND. meng Canada towards the end of 1943 I ae ie le next two years in England where I ationed at Mt. Batten near Plymouth. It Was q i “Sa long journey from here to London and. si caries was very busy on the Squadron I did collecs e great deal of time at my disposal to one Be Ormation. about Orchids. However, with ye fst visit to London I discussed the topic ang anes very helpful people at the Boomer- afi io and later called on Mr. Simmonds Srey eval Horticultural Society in Vincent Those wt ondon. _Mr. Simmonds gave me some he Fees mncrmation and gave me access ie ociety’s fine library. Through Mr. nae Sie met Mr. Gurney Wilson of Hove, Society resident of the Royal Horticultural let dly Prccuid Committee. Mr. Wilson very of the Haale a day to taking me around two England oot Orchid-growing establishments in Mens ive the visit he chose the establish- and Ch essrs. J. & A. McBean of Cooksbridge both ; arlesworth & Co. of Haywards Heath, a 1 Sussex, What Messrs. J & A. McBean’s place I found Cymbig; Probably the best known collection of lished tums in the world. It is an old-estab- UD into Usiness which has been gradually built of the a very large establishment. Here many Pro ibaa ae finest Cymbidiums have been P REG wo or three of their best strains are any of careful breeding over a period of brightest and each cross has produced larger, by no tT and better flowers. The equipment is been Rerens elaborate and the glasshouses have ton me up in rather a piecemeal fashion. after tr te, however, was exercised in looking °xXperienc Pants but great difficulty was being i; ean In wartime owing to the absence on “ather 55 Ce of all the able-bodied men. I was try to see many thousands of seedlings Pro ithe . years old and from the best strains metic, at ere being packed for shipment to Prosecu n order to help to raise dollars for the Brea , 2 Of the war. These seedlings all had the menniise and if they had been retained by ~~ ae of them might have been of 2 alue to the bybridisers. ing aati I saw vast numbers of seedlings A Dorma] uced in nutrient solutions in flasks. al solution was employed and the treat- Sim Page 85 ment of the seeds and young plants was sub- stantially the same as that seen at Thomas Young Nurseries Inc. in New Jersey. Results too were similar and no difficulty had been encountered in transplanting seedlings from the flasks to pots. 3 Mr. Rothwell, the manager of the nursery, told me that one of the greatest difficulties experienced was in finding fuel for the furnaces that heat the houses. The establish- ment had been entirely without coal for some years, since coal was only available for such horticultural purposes if glass houses were de- voted exclusively to the production of vegetables such as tomatoes for the home market. Mr. Rothwell said that the exercise of special care had enabled the houses to escape frost, but that during the wintertime the plants had endured long periods with temperatures inside the glass- houses very close to freezing point. He expressed surprise that the plants had survived. I told him - that in Melbourne as well as in the warmer cities in Australia, Cymbidiums were very often grown quite successfully out of doors in shel- tered positions and that I had had them growing for some years in 12 inch pots under a Magnolia tree, where they have prospered very well indeed in spite of strong winds and frost. Mr. Roth- well said that he thought that in the past English growers had probably given Cymbidiums too much heat and had mistakenly regarded them as unable to withstand low temperatures. In the glasshouses the plants are grown in: rather small pots and this gave me an impression of overcrowding. Mr. Rothwell agreed that when grown in an open position: exposed to wind or dryer air the plants would be better off in much larger pots or tubs. Leaving Messrs. J. & A. McBean’s place, Mr. Wilson took me to Haywards Heath to see the houses of Charlesworth & Co. This establish- ment is situated in a most delightful part of Sussex, surrounded with beautiful trees and approached by long winding country roads. The - estate itself is most attractively laid out and the whole organization has obviously been planned with great care. A judicious selection of orna- mental cypresses arranged around the approach to the office gives a very pleasant aspect to the place, and the glasshouses are partially concealed behind the trees to avoid giving that somewhat barren impression associated with large acreages of white-washed glass. The glasshouses are arranged around a long central glass-covered passage rather like the leaflets of a pinnate leaf. The central corridor is decorated with specimens of attractive ornamental plants which help to Page 86 conceal the utilitarian aspect of the glasshouses leading off the corridor. I went around each of the houses in turn gaining access to them all from the central corridor, The houses are chiefly devoted to Miltonias and Odontoglossums, and allied genera. Charlesworth & Co. have done a good deal of pioneering work in the raising of seed-' lings in flasks and nutrient solutions. They have achieved remarkable success in the controlled production of new colourings in the flowers. I almost gained the impression that they design a flower in advance according to some desired effect and then produce it by selecting parent plants for hybridization. Some of the Miltonias that were at the flower- ing stage looked from a distance rather like a great mass of giant pansies. This firm has had such marked success with the plants that I wondered why they are not more commonly grown here. I believe that they would grow very easily in Melbourne in cool bush-houses out of doors. On a later visit to London I was present, at Mr. Wilson’s invitation, at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Orchid Committee and found their proceedings very interesting. Several plants were exhibited and discussed and Vanda Sanderiana ALEX. GRANT, Mackay, Nth. Q. @ The accompanying photograph by Mr. Lloyd Williams, of 4MK Broadcasting Service, Mackay, one of our keen local growers, shows the best result I have so far achieved in growing this vanda in my glass house. Eight years ago, this plant came into my possession direct from a dealer at Java. Three years elapsed before it flowered with me, carry- ing one spike of six blooms. It missed flowering the following year and in the fifth year carried nine blooms on one spike. It then missed an- other year, but during the following season in 1944 flowered with the result shown—two spikes of nine and seven flowers respectively. It has a smaller accompanying plant which flowered in the first consecutive three years in my possession, but which has not flowered since. In both plants the buds invariably make their appearance late in April. When first acquired and potted, the compost, as for all my vandas at that time, consisted of Todea fibre and Sphagnum moss with a liberal filling of crocks and a little charcoal. From observation and from experience gained with other vandas, suspicions about the use of © AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1945 | awards of merit and certificates were granted: | After the meeting Mr. Wilson showed me 4— very fine collection of coloured plates including all the flowers that have received the Society® major awards during the past 40 years or mote — All of these plates were painted by the sam artist direct from the flower at the time whe# the award was made and great care has be? taken to reproduce the colours with gre accuracy. It was very interesting to select flowers produced over a period of 20 or 30 yeal representing several generations of hybridizatio™ In most cases the flowers displayed very notice, able family characteristics and over a period 0 years showed such a marked development that one was tempted to visualize what the nest generation of plants of the same strain would : produce. Records of this type are of great value” to Hybridizers since it enables them to fort cast the future development and gives them * mental picture of what to look for when exam | ining newly flowered plants. r | At the R.H.S. I met Mr. Cooper of Sandets who will be well remembered by readers ? A.O.R. for the valuable advice he gave to Aus | tralian growers on the occasion of his visit het some years ago. Mr. Cooper discussed Australia? conditions with great interest. Sphagnum began to arise and after the second year this compost was discarded. Sanderiana ® now grown in the same way as all my othe vandas, The pots are filled with clean crock only and serve merely as receptacles in which % hold the plants upright. Sphagnum moss at charcoal have been discarded entirely and thé crocks are topped with a very light dressing of black Todea fibre only. The roots grow in and about the crocks and over the pots and down % — to the fibro-cement bench top and wander # will. Their growth is prolific and much mo™ | healthy than when confined to a compost. This method allows of copious watering * any time during the year without the roots b& coming too wet or waterlogged. I grant that th method entails more work in keeping up t? water during the hot growing season, but I 3% satisfied, that, with me, the results obtained more than compensate for the extra work ¢% tailed. One drawback is that the exposed roo? are more liable to attack by rats and cockroach one having to be more vigilant in keeping they pests in check, but that is a “GOOD THING © generally for ones plants anyway. ! AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 CYMBIDIUM DORCHESTER (Westonbirt type) Newn at the Orchid Exhibition by the Hon. T. Playford. ; Photo by “The News Ltd.,” Adelaide. Page 87 CYPRIPEDIUM “GOLDEN EMBLEM” Grown by F. H. De‘ Rose, President of the Orchid Club of South Australia. Photo by “The News Ltd.,” Adelaide. In Memoriam =—Alexander John MeFie ARTHUR J. DALEY, Gympie, @. — ; ne his death at Gympie on July 19th, 1946, ing Sete Orchid Society lost a long stand- ae a d highly esteemed Country Member, and rae \ce-President, and probably its most un- Saag Grower, in the person of Mr. Alex. mn in Gympie 72 years ago, he spent a Gughere years touring the State as a Dentist aT Eds to the Education Department. His of dhotee an “open sesame” to every member and hi rchid Society and lover of horticulture, known. collectoin of recorded music was well es and regarded as one of the best in the Bene Made a world tour in 1930 accompanied ts. McFie, and brought home a number of many » One of which, a Maxillaria, has supplied lang members of the Society with a specimen Bea he original is still growing bigger and €r than ever, is Unorthodox methods and the results at- tained amazed everyone who visited his collec- tion. Cattleyas growing in a mixture of soil and rotted wood from old stumps, mixed with charcoal, osmunda and elk-horn fibre. He always insisted that the latter did not become sour and found Cattleyas liked it in basket culture. From personal observation over a number of years I attribute his success to infrequent watering and frequent repotting. I am certain the plants would rot out in this compost under my methods. rae Cypripediums in this rotted stump material and sheep manure were equal to anything in the State, as our Secretary, Mr. Harveyson, a close friend, can testify. Much the same treatment was accorded Cymbidiums which he flowered as perfectly as is possible in our semi-tropical climate. Our Friend, his generosity and cheerful dispo- sition will be sadly missed by the many Orchid- lovers passing ‘“‘North.” Page 88 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 South Australia’s First Orchid Exhibition k. J. LANGDON. Millswood, 8. A. ® South Australia has had its first Orchid Ex- hition, to see which, more than 4,000 people paid -for admission and many hundreds were turned away in the two days it was open to the public. There were many requests for the period to be extended, but the hall, unfortunately, was not available. Liberal Club Hall, North Terrace, was the place chosen. The committee, under the able leadership of the Secretary (Mr. R. L. Smith) worked hard to make our first effort a success. Lighting restric- tions, because of the coal shortage, added to the ‘difficulties, but the secretary arranged for auxil- iary lighting. The displays were spotlighted ' from the gallery. The President (Mr. F. H. De Rose) contacted interstate clubs asking for assistance in the form of cut flowers, and the response was very gratifying. Our thanks are extended to all who helped. Melbourne sent Cymbidiums and Sydney Cymbidiums and Cypripediums all of a very high standard. They were generally superior to any seen in Adelaide, particularly the Cypriped- iums, which for size, symmetry and texture would be difficult to equal. The best Cym- bidium was probably Arabella Magnifica from Melbourne. Because of the extreme drought conditions, Brisbane people were unable to send Orchids, but a large box of croton leaves of beautiful colour- ing added to the display. The interstate material was exhibited separately, and called forth a lot of praise. i Lady Norrie, wife of the Governor of South Australia, graciously consented to perform the opening ceremony and was presented with an Orchid sheaf by Miss Pat Playford, youngest daughter of the Hon. T. Playford, premier of South Australia, and our patron. Publicity for the exhibition was a simple . matter, the two leading newspapers vying with each other to publish advance information on the progress of arrangements. Several reproduc- tions appeared of plants being arranged for dis- — play, but the press of people was so great at the official opening time that photographers could not: operate. Miss G. M. Sutherland used some of the Cym- bidium spikes and Epidendrums to advantage in two decorated Dinner tables. She is a past master at the art of decorating and they were much admired. The front of the stage was banked high with tropical foliage plants of all descriptions, includ- ing Dracaenas and Crotons, the Orchids being arranged amongst their foliage. The Orchids on the two side tables were also displayed among foliage -plants. The collection was insured for £1,500. Soft music from an orchestra on the stage behind the massed displays provided an effective setting. The main exhibitors were Hon. T. Playford and his mother Mrs. T. Playford, sen., Mr. F. H. De Rose, Mrs. G. P. Howie, Mr. R. L. Smith, Mr. Max Hill and Mr. Jack Osborn. As the exhibition was non-competitive, it is difficult to discuss the exhibits. Mr. Playford’s Cymbidium Dorchester, Westonbirt type, was well grown and the blooms were of nice form. It was greatly admired. Mr. D. J. W: Chandler, well known in the flower world in Melbourne was a visitor and his choice was Cymbidium Madeleine grown by Mr. De Rose and C. Grandiflorum grown by Mrs. Howie, both coloured green. Mrs. Playford also tabled a well grown Grandiflorum. Well worthy of special mention was Mr. J- Osborn’s Angraecum Sesquipedale. flowers were of nice texture and quite the largest seen in South Australia. Mr. Hill’s hybrid Cypripediunis called forth comment, and among Mr. De Rose’s exhibits were B.C. Maronae, a well shaped bloom with 4 nice lip and a good shaped slipper—Golden © Emblem. Cypripediums Etta Lucillus, Mrs. Carey Bat- ten and Archie Neild and Cymbidium Lucastes were the pick of a nice lot from Mr. Smith. The public showed a keen interest in the ex- hibits and enquiries were made with a view to undertaking the growing of Orchids and becom- ing members of our club. The exhibition was a success financially and we have every hope that it will increase con- siderably our membership. At least it has awak- ened interest in Orchids among the people of South Australia. We are looking forward keenly to our next exhibition probably in September, 1947. The two | AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 Page 89 Orchid Society of New South Wales Annual Spring Exhibition, 1946 W. WORTH, Willoughby, N.S.W. ® Announced as a “Show to Remember,” the Second post-war Annual Exhibition held at David Jones premises on 11th, 12th and 13th September proved to be a very enjoyable and Popular event, the general opinion voiced by Visitors and members being, that it was the 18gest and most attractive exhibition that has n held in Sydney. As usual at this time of year Cymbidiums Steatly outnumbered other genera. There was 4 very marked and noticeable swing to colour ‘Mongst the exhibits. This was accentuated by the excellent staging and lighting arrangements, re 4 result of which, the Orchid loving public 48 greeted with a display of flowers in almost ‘Very conceivable colour and shade. ‘ a Jordan performed the opening ceremony, a | in welcoming her, the President of the perc Mr. E. A. Hamilton said that Orchids ead Orchid culture had attracted a great deal rec cttention and shown much development in Bere years, not only in Australia, but in many €r parts of the world. The plants exhibited Y members clearly showed this marked im- Hemernen in the quality of the blooms, being ie oubtedly the best yet seen in Sydney, and Pmparable with the world’s best. Amongst eer were plants which have gained very high i ards in other countries and it is satisfying to Ste that our best do not lose by comparison. € Society was appreciative of the generous aon of Messrs. David Jones Ltd. in providing fo and other valuable assistance for the exhib- ae which will benefit the Kindergarten Union N.S.W. financially. any Jordan congratulated the Society on the mn ent display made by the exhibits. There BE ese very attractive about a display ons tchids, Their graceful beauty appealed to mone and their great variety of colour and The was evidenced by the exhibits themselves. aa Society had made much progress during €nt years and she hoped this would continue. eats C. Lloyd Jones thanked Lady Jordan ae attending and opening the show and ex- aa es appreciation of the very fine exhibition a one by the Orchid Society which had i Stormed a rather dull corner of their premises © 8 beautiful and attractive scene. € arrangements for the exhibition were well rap "ted out and the 350 plants exhibited included many specimens of great value. They were insured for £10,000 by the Society. Many visitors attended the show from other states and countries and the interchange of ideas and comparisons was one of the most pleasant features. The opinions generally expressed by visitors from other countries, were, that there were more good quality flowers here than they had seen before and the plants themselves were very well grown and staged. One country visitor remarked “It’s a great show, the best we have had, well arranged and with perfect lighting; but there are so many good flowers one gets confused trying to pick the best of them.” EXHIBITS The exhibits particularly noticed by me are listed below: Mr. C. Cambourn: 36 plants, Cymbidiums in varying colours predominating, Oncidiums and Cypripediums being also included. Cym- bidium Gossoon was -outstanding for colour, being bright yellow with intense red on the lip: the whole exhibit was effectively arranged and was awarded the Society’s silver medal. Mr. L. Sasso: This was a most interesting and comprehensive group of miscellaneous Orchids, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, cypripediums, .epi- dendrums, laelias, cattleyas, phalaenopsis and many other native species, crotons, palms and other decorative plants made a very fine display. Awarded the Society’s silver medal. Mr. A. R. Begg: A lovely colourful exhibit of Cymbidiums, every plant was a well grown specimen. I liked best his Cassandra, Joyance and Swallow var. Bellevue. The exhibit was awarded the Society’s Bronze Medal. Mr. S. Shead: A magnificent group including the outstanding specimen plant of the show, Princess Elizabeth, very large and well grown carrying 100 flowers on 4 sturdy spikes. The bulbs resembled small pineapples. This plant was awarded the Society’s Bronze Medal for Culture and Display. Amongst other attractive plants was Lyoth X Ceres carrying a graceful spike of rosy red flowers. te Mr. L. Hawley: Four high quality Cym- bidiums, fit to grace any show table, including Jungfrau F.C.C.R.H.S. and Alexanderi Weston- birt X Gloriana, an outstanding novelty with large flowers of a colour and shape not seen here before, attracted much attention. Page 90 Dr. A. C. Burstal: Six pots of fine well grown Cymbidiums. I liked the brightly col- oured Flamingo, Altair and Swallow var. Daffodil best. . Mr. C. H. Deane: Two tables of choice cymbidiums all good. Ceres var. Girrahween attracted very great attention being considered by many to be the most desirable Orchid in the show, with its beautiful pink flowers displayed on a strong graceful spike. Pauwellsii X Dante, Lorna, a very pleasing pink, Lowianum X Rox- ana were all lovely. Mrs. Grace Mitchell: Cymbidium Isabel Sander X Alex. Westonbirt—Flush colour, good form. Mr. W. Fahey: A very pleasing exhibit of Odontoglossums, Cypripediums, Lycastes and Cymbidiums. A nicely flowered plant of Odontoglossum Crispum was attractive. His cymbidiums were of good quality and colour, Dorchester var. Jeanette was a good one. Cyp- ripediums included T. W. Abbot and Cameo, both highly coloured specimens. Mr. W. Rothwell: Displayed 20 large Cym- _bidiums. Ruskin was a very colourful subject with sunset tonings and a very bright lip. While I liked Swallow var. Chastity and Miranda which displays its flowers well. Mrs. G. Tant: Two fine Cymbidiums were shown. Cassandra var. Exquisite—a attractive flower of good form and texture— was awarded a highly commended certificate this being the only award made to a woman ex- hibitor during the show. Miss M. Hatcher: Three Cymbidium Swal- lows (Westonbirt) showing distinct variations. I liked var. Chiang-kai-Shek the best. Mr. R. Dart: A fine display of Cymbidiums including Arabella var. Magnifica (A.M. Mel- bourne) and Dingleden a Deconianum cross, a novelty that attracted much attention. Mr. J. Bisset: This group included Cymbidi- ums and Anthurium hybrids effectively used decoratively the colours blending with the Orchids. Carisbrook var. Thelma a specially . bright coloured attractive cymbidium was out- standing, which gained a special award. Mr. F. C. White: A well arranged table of Phaius, dendrobiums and cymbidiums, yellow tones predominating. ; Mr. L. Giles: A pleasing combination of brightly coloured flowers. Cymbidiums var. Ada Meech, particularly colourful, was much admired as was Erica Sander X Enchantress and Joy Sander, Mr. E. A. Hamilton: 4 Specimen cymbidium plants well flowered. Ingona with eight spikes very. AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 of golden flowers blended pleasingly with the attractive greens of Celia and Erica Sander. Mr. A. B. Porter: Nice group of plants in varying colours, mostly Westonbirt swallows. Mr. C. C. Hildebrandt: A colourful dis- play, principally cymbidiums, with the well known Janette var. Golden Crown showing up prominently. Included in this exhibit was a well grown plant of Phalaenopsis Schilleriana with a graceful spray of over 20 flowers. Mr. W. Worth: Dendrobium hybrids and Lycaste Skinnerii with a fine specimen plant of Cymbidium Regulus var. Queen Mary with 84 flowers of the softest pink well displayed on erect spikes. Also cymbidium Red Minivet. Mr. V. MacDonald: This was a nice group of Cymbidiums selected for colour which made an attractive exhibit. Mr. F. H. Spurway: A good group, princi- pally Cymbidiums and Cypripediums which in- cluded Maudiae Backhouse var. a large green flower well displayed on a long stem. The Cym- bidium Sunrise, var. Brilliant is well named, being a very colourful subject. Mr. P. L. Meech: Exhibited 9 plants in- cluding several Cymbidium seedlings of good type flowering for the first time of which Mor- yth X Priam was a very striking colour with a good wide lip. Mr. L. H. Newman: A large group-of Cym- bidiums including the old favourite Charm vat. Elegance A.M. O.S. of N.S.W. 1945. Also shown were some Lycaste Skinnerii and other plants. Mrs. E. M. Mitchell: A number of decora- tive Cymbidiums making an attractive display. Mr. T. Burns: Four large specimen plants in casks. Decorative Cymbidiums carrying a great number of spikes of attractive pink and green flowers making an impressive display. Mrs. Norton: Decorative display pot of Pauwelsii type cymbidium. Mr. C. Morris: A nice group of cymbid- iums of which Esmeralda, a very lovely shade of green, was outstanding. Mr. M. Moodie: An attractive exhibit of Lycastes, Native species and cymbidiums. Mr. F. Fryers: Cymbidium Monica attrac- ted attention with its fine pink flowers displayed on an erect spike. Mr. F. Slattery: Cymbidiums, included in which was a Carisbrook with an attractive spike of dark coloured flowers, almost red. Dr. A, Lyell: A fine group of miscellaneous Orchids, colourful. and interesting, including many unusual plants. Dendrobiums were repre- sented by Chessingtonense, Finlayanum, Nobile, AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 Lady Colman X Miss F. King. Calanthes and Shomburkia were included. F. Weinthal: Three nice cymbidiums in- pans an attractive plant of Louis Sander ‘trying 7 spikes of flowers of an unusual deep Pink colouring. ane N. L. Webster: Three cymbidium ive Ings flowered for the first time. Joy Sander Isis X Pres. Wilson being very colourful, 800d quality flowers. bi ieee Richards: Display of decorative cym- ate G. Begbie: Cymbidiums of which an Roe plant was-nice. ay 1. G. R. Johnson: A well grown vigorous nt of dendrobium Nobile covered in flowers. Gann A. R. Persson: Cymbidium, Lowit- ait iflorum X Alex. Westonbirt carried a nice P i of flowers. of ne K. H. Awmuller: Several Cymbidiums € decorative type. of M, ery popular and instructive exhibit was that iste ". F. Douglas, “The Beginners Corner.” ‘impl were displayed pots, potting materials and Piements used by the Orchid grower including cl Page 91 spraying materials, with explanatory notes as to their use. Also divisions of plants and back bulbs in various stages of growth. Mr. Douglas himself was in attendance giving practical advice which was much appreciated and availed of by the public. Miss Jamieson had prepared a paper of in- structions on the best methods of Cymbidium culture for the novice, which was offered for sale at a nominal price, proceeds to go to the” Kindergarten Union funds. This was in great demand. . Messrs. Persson and Robertson exhibited a display illustrating the methods used in hybrid- ising, production of seed and propagation of seedling cymbidiums, The flowers used in the production of the batch of seed were shown, also young «plants in various stages from “bottle babies” to sturdy plants in pots. The exhibitors answered many questions. The Judging Committee met at the Exhibi- tion and in addition to the groups ‘mentioned above, recommended awards to be granted to a number of individual plants subject to the usual condition of the production of a coloured photo. Neweastle (N.S.W.) Orchid Cirele G. S. RUNDLE, Wallsend, N.S.W. - pte meetings of the Circle are held alternately iy Sa Various homes of members and are quite ea affairs, being occasions of fellowship, al goodwill and helpfulness and might well | Copied by other small communities of Orchid OVers, g Aa Ae MclIlwain’s is a miscellaneous collection; Cate] at he grows Dendrobiums, “Slippers,” e : eyas, Vandas, etc. in the one glass house, le . Cy..%, Separate lattice structure houses the Ymbidiums, fy nen first entering the glass house, we were Bevan ane fine collection of exceptionally well showin Slippers” most in 8 inch caskets, each flower 8 about half a dozen flowers. Of those in diene, we were particularly interested by the ctl stems and huge buds of Mirium, Gold Al ieee Sullivan, Annabelle, Leone Gral, and See X. Christopher, G.D.N., Alcibiades stand sate: These look exceptionally good and acs | above the fine dark green glossy leaves t Certainly show the Cypripedium flowers Vantage, done eee stage is a nice batch of well iN bloom t ie Mantini in a fine variety was atictieg and some fine looking buds of other Were making themselves conspicuous. endrobiums were always Mr. Mellwains strong point and visitors from Sydney will re- member them from past years. At present Dendrobiums, Goldii, Superbiens, Phalaenopsis and var. Schroderae are in flower. These plants have enormous growths and are certainly the best that we have seen in cultiva- tion. Plenty of root room and growing space is allowed here and the plants do appreciate it. Some huge plants of Dendrobiums, Chryso- toxum, aggregatum, nobile, Farmeri, etc., are in 18 inch Caskets and provide a glorious show every year. Vandas, tricolour and suavis are sturdy and well branched with leaves almost to the moss growing round the top of the pots. Cymbidiums, showing particularly strong. spikes are Swallow, var. Perfection, Dorrian, Doris and the glorious Ceres, var. Brocklehurst. After an exhaustive inspection of the plants and a few critical remarks, we retired inside to discuss Orchids in general. A special topic of discussion was the prospect of the Newcastle growers getting their plants to Sydney (some 100 miles or more) in good condition, with the object of obtaining Awards of the Senior N.S.W. Society. There was also the problem of trans- port back home again. No decision was reached and further discussion was postponed until a later meeting. Page 92 Cymbidiums AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, DECEMBER, 1946 at Caulfield KR. BRUCE WOGG, Kew. Vic. @ Today, August 18th, was one of the great moments of my life. I was asked to inspect the Orchid collection of Mr. Einar Petersen, of Caulfield, Victoria, and I saw a vision of beauty only twice ever approached in my experience, once being the A. M. Nicholas collection some years back, and the other that of Mr. Basil Hodgins during the first year in which I became interested in Orchids, but in some. way Mr. Petersen’s were the more impressive; due, I think, to the facilities which he has for staging rather. than to the quality of flower. Mr. Petersen’s Cymbidium house is a wide one with a central bench about 7 ft. wide and up- wards of 60 ft. long. This bench is set low and is ideal for display purposes. The whole bench was filled to overflowing with Cymbidiums of every imaginable colour, the plants packed so closely that in many cases spikes touched eac other. There were more than two hundred spikes, all plants well grown and all flowers full of resultant texture. The predominant colour was pink in every shade; perhaps three out of every four plants were this colour, giving it a predominance in the whole display, cleverly mixed were all other shades but so blended that they relieved rather than destroyed the domin- ance of the pink. Not a great number of plants were of show quality, but those that were, were particularly good, but there is something about the older type of hybrid which will always make it very suitable to display. While the flowers are smaller and of less perfect form, the spikes carry a multitude of flowers, and their varied form makes them far less formal than is the case with the modern hybrid. There were many Weston- birts, but they cast no inferiority complex on the older hybrid; quite the contrary in a display like this, the colour-of the older types setting off the Westonbirts. Mr. Petersen has provided me with a photo of the grouped display, and it will be published with this description, and I am sure that readers will not consider that I have exaggerated when they examine it. One thing stands out; that is that every affluent grower sh