ihe B35
Bite} ath beanies
Sith} sats
$i
ety
ts hh
Jirden new Cowp/ofe ex }
»
— Australia ee
md
MARCH ISSUE, 1946
Published Quarterly
|
Vol. 11. No. |
\STHE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE ORCHID SOCIETY OF NEW SOUTH WALES (INCORPORATING THE NEWCASTLE ORCHID CIRCLE), THE QUEENSLAND ORCHID © SOCIETY
AND THE VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB.
Page ii AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
ORCHIDS
Quantity - Quality - Variety e Cc. H. DEANE Girrahween Nurseries
190 WOLLONGONG RD., ARNCLIFFE SYDNEY, N.S.W. - TEL. LX1106
(25 ee a SDE a Bg eee CCC EE LEE ECOCLLCECLLCCLLCLLOL
Joh wh oem WSL NN NL NDS TSS AN NOON dS NL) om out ou out om oot nm wn om ou en ns wt
In Advertising since
the element of time is one to be reckoned with—as it has important underlying effects, particularly on the volume of future business.
Efficient process engraving is an offective ally when up against "time." Turning to the fine art studios at 89 William Street, you are sure of RESULTS not EXCUSES in the hour of urgency.
A free enterprise, not process engraving as a sideline, a progressive organisation noted for the consistent quality of its work—maintained by.....
PHOTO-ENGRAVING ART COMPANY PROPRIETARY LIMITED 8 9 wk bh oe AM STREET, SYDNEY
On Time and in Step with Advertising
@ ustralian___
WEEE:
i orea
Y
Y.
MV
N N
Wild? ee “dit Z tL LLL Ete | a sy Ly cresyl? ae a jg ds “zg
WO
SS
\
WS
Y YW) O yyy
\\
y
\\
G GU vay ZG Wy. Jka j
MD Le y “4, y WH ft ; 7 Yi We Me Wy ey tha uy Wi “ME yy yyy GP “rrp aaa ‘Mt dd Lo
idddddetedtiddiddaar>
COMPOSITE | INDEX
Volumes 11, 12 and 13 — 1946, 1947, ‘1948
COMPILED BY E. PECKOVER
Index to Articles - - - - - - Page 3
Index to Illustrations - - - : ae - - Page 6
THE AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW
Official Organ of THE ORCHID SOCIETY OF NEW SOUTH WALES ORCHID CLUB OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA QUEENSLAND ORCHID SOCIETY VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB
PUBLISHED QUARTERLY by
SHEPHERD & NEWMAN PTY. LTD. YURONG STREET, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
Subscription Rates: Australia, 10/- sterling per annum; Overseas, 10/- sterling per annum, post free. Payable to the Publishers.
Current and Back Numbers and Advertising Rates obtainable from the Publishers.
Index to Articles
About “Cane” Orchids
Adelaides Men sees ee After-care of Seedlings Amateur Orchid Cultivation in U.S.A. Among Victoria’s Orchid Collections .... An Appeal Angraecum Annual Spring Exhibition, 1946 Appreciation of Mr. Bruce Hogg
Australian Orchid Review and the Co-operation of Growers
Award Judging Awards issued by the Wales during 1945 Awards issued by the Orchid Society of New South WWealesaic urin Gee 946 Meneacee cece anemt mee tie Wey come ohh red Awards issued by the Orchid Society of New South Wales during 1945, 1946 and 1947 occ: susie Awards issued by the Victorian Orchid Club during 1946 and 1947 Ballarat Orchid and Begonia Club Cattleyasmiey. wan meee eaten Cattleyas, More Heat for .
Cattleyas and Vandas, Cool House Culture COStIYARELY DI 1CS manana een teen
Cultural Notes for Queensland. ..... Cultural Notes for South Australia ..
Cultural Notes for Victoria
Cymbidiums Cymbidiums—and Glass . Cymbidiums at Caulfield COppevaheS(ObUUTOOKS, COMUTRUERS) (OE cee reantvmionaticnnstmertoseminater nt
Cymbidiums in Sydney, Observations on Cymbidiums, Observations on Housing them
Cymbidiums, Why do they not flower freely? Cypripediums
Cypripediums, a Talk on the Genus ... Cypripediums, Culture Of nda Cypripediums, The pert beat of Cypripedium callosum. .......... a Cypripedium Show, Victorian ‘Orchid Club Dendrobium Canaliculatum sha
Dendrobium D’Albertisii_ .... Dendrobium Johnsoniae Dendrobium Phalaenopsis var. Compactum . Dendrobium speciosum var. Hillii . OCNALODIUMMEL OL Llimeermne remem nenan
TDI POOLE MEH S1t OLLI menace sean tener erent tumeea Naar tects Dipodium Punctatum Export of Orchid Flowers
Oe
oe
pe D9 CO et 00 00 Rt 09 0 DY St 09 Co RD 0 oR rw)
Vol.
12
11
12 12 12 13 11 11 12 12
13
11 11 13
No.
PW PWD Pe
we 09 0
Reo
94
62
103
76 86
108
Feeding of Orchids, The ......... From the Editor’s Mail Bag .
Gravel Culture Or Hydroponics oc ccccccsseersnemncmsnnseene : Greenhoods of New South Wales, Some Notes on ...... Hints on Importing Orchids History of the Firm of Stuart Low Co. Hobart\)) 2re.3h ehh ae FLODALteOTChHicie GID peer se ee terete teeta eds rats ertcor ee Hot Boxes for Orchid Propagation...
Hybridization= seen Hybridization, The Principles of ...... In Memoriam—Alexander JOHN M CFIC iccccccccsnrtnnenen Insects and Allied Pests Of Orchids -cccccccccsccnnsneneeneenesnne John Bisset’s Show, 1946 . Gibrary Notes) vscsdse Lizards, Frogs and Praying Mantis .. Lure of the Orchid, The ... Lycaste Skinneri_ .....000.0.... Magnetic Island Orchids . Maiden’s Blush Orchid .... IMiscellonesusm: OLChidSiaene seem eran ey irene nr aennanat Mistletoemonma nikOrChicl meseapeetenr amen eee tee tare nnres Newcastle Orchid Circle...
Newcastle Orchid Circle Show, 1947 cccccccccccncssnmen Nitrogen Bacteria and Orchid Seedlings ....... .... New South Wales Orchid Society’s First and Second Annual Competitive Shows ...... Pe a ck sek Wm New South Wales Orchid Society’s Winter Shows, 1947 and 1948 : New Year’s Day in Bed . New Zealand Orchid Society . Northern Rivers Orchid eg ae Notes and News
Vol. 12 11 12 12 12 11 13 13 12 12 12 13 11 11 12 11 12 13 13 12 13 13 13 12 11 12 12 11
12
12 il 13 13 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 13 13 13 13 13 13 13
N
PPP RP EWWORNVEL DPD PWN SH PY oD oo POO et OO
_
PP RYDE HP Rw wD Se Pe ip co to 00 09 Wet
9
Page
106
106
103
Vol.
11 12
mal?
13
13 13
13
12
13 13
No.
OPW
PRPRPWNVDEEP RWWNONYVAER HR eR PR ww OED
Page
100 46 106 66
62 87
87
19
88 60
41
100 105
Notes for Novices
Odontoglossum Family Odontoglossum Grande .. Orchid Circle in Ceylon -necccccccccnnnennnnen Orchid Culture in North Queensland Orchid Display at Murwillumbah . OLCHid Experiences vceccsinessnsssnssneneseis Orchid Flora of the Blue Mountains Orchids for Beginners ommncnmeennn Orchids for Beginners—Sydney .
Orchids from Seed Orchid Garden in Launceston .
Orchid Hints for Beginners—Brisbane Orchid Industry in England . Orchidswingee lOvid sameeren Orchid Magazines of the World Orchids of Cape York, Notes on Orchids on Bougainville cnn
PH Values and their Relation to Orchids POLS Bearers a Parents of ‘Cymbidium | ‘Hybrids - JD Propagation of Orchids from Seed RUDLCECLONS ELE CELV.CC Maen en an nnn ant nnnnen nen a nUALE ns Queenslander visits Hawaii Quiz Corner ....
Queensland Orchid Society, Annual Report Selenipedium Sedenii ........ Some Orchid Questions .. South Australia’s Orchid Exhibitions, 1946, 1947 and 1948 . drt G a Starting a General Collection Strap Leaf Vandas in Queensland .. Study of crculdology in Australia Sydney Orchid Club . T. H. James retires .... Tale of a pecs The . ane bark Ten Orchids for “Beginners—Queensland Townsville Orchid Society msc Treatment of Imported Orchids .... Two New Orchids from Western Australia . Vanda Sanderiana_.......... Vegetative Propagation of. “Orchids . Veteran Grower. Mr. E. J. Beard . Victorian Orchid Club Activities... Victorian Orchid Club Shows, 1946, 1947 and 1948 .......
Wardian Case, A .. prhtieee
Western Suburbs Orchid “Society’s “Shows, “1946 and 1947 ul
What to Lecture about .
Why the Variation in Hybrids? ;
Worries of & Beginner occcccnninnn
CORO NYP RWWWRW RR RW HORE NON PRE E EW H PNW DERE PR RwWHWwWHWWNUNNPHWRE WHO EZ
Oo;
Page 108
Ra ao AROaAD
104
Lelie | wo
104
ona COrwnmsd
102
np Vs
> og
107
we Ol 10
RHO 0 COP Oo 10
88
AADWwpP arNoOoS;
Vol.
11 11 12 12 13
11 12
13°
11
“13
12
13
13 12
13
12
13
Op d pw
Page 36 98 35
96 76
95 94
90
28 45
93
67
Index to Hilustrations
Angraecum Brassocattleya Chieftan . Brassocattleya Cliftonville Bridal Bouquet come Calanthe veratrifolia ........ Cattleya amethystoglossa Cattleya Blooms .......... Cattleya Dupreana ..... Chart pollen and ovules Coelogyne Massangeana .. Cymbidium Cassandra var. Toxteth Cymbidium Dorchester occ Cymbidium Girrahween var. Enid Cymbidium Imbrog...... Cymbidium Janette ..... Cymbidium Joyance No. 1 ..... Cymbidium Jungfrau. F.C.C., R.H.S. Cymbidium Miranda var. Maisie Cymbidium Princesse Astrid... Cymbidium Swallow, Westonbirt var. Cymbidium Tangie ........... Cypripedium callosum... Cypripedium Donald Ayres. H.C., O.S. Cypripedium Golden Emblem Cypripedium Grand Monarch Cypripedium Insigne guareteld Ha Cypripedium Parishii_ ............. Cypripedium Wendover, var. “VE. “DAY : Dendrobium Bigibbum var. Phalaenopsis . Dendrobium Canaliculatum Dendrobium Goldiei occu Dendrobium Infundibulum .... Dendrobium Phalaenopsis like .. Dendrobium speciosum var. Hillii . Dendrobium thyrsiflorum . Dendrobium Tofftii_ ....... Dipodium punctatum Epidendrum Ciliare ...... Electrically heated Propagating Box Glass-house in Launceston cece Gold Medal Group (Sanders Ltd.) : “Greenhood” Pterostylis . Hot Box Diagrams .. Laelia ANCEPS occ Laeliocattleya Alata x Le. Woden . Dah Messrs. Gurney Wilson and James L. Humphreys examining blooms Mr. E. J. Beard ............. Mr. W. H. Hatcher Mirae Heed &IMCS maw Mr. Einar Petersen’s Cymplasums 4 Miltonia Etta, once Miltonia Vexillaria var, “Snowflake: Mistletoe Seedling ecco Monadenia Austaliensis . Odontoglossum Alorcus var. Excellis . Odontoglossum Grande . Oncidium. .......... Orchids from seed (Mr. “A. R. Persson) pH Values Scale ... Phalaenopsis Schilleria
RM rW NU RW RNY AW AWE PRR RRND WW WUE RAMEE REY ROE EEN WW RARWH WHY ANED Z
9°
Page 41 13 40
100
37 39 15 71 16 TT 99 87 97 69 71 43 13 15 24 41 96
Vol.
13
13
13
No.
Page
42
44
70
Phalaenopsis Serpentilingua — Shipment of Australian Orchids Stamps of Colombia. .....
Stanhopea Tigrina._ ...... Thelymitra Cucullata Unique Orchid Garden Vanda Coerulea. ......... Vanda Mrs. Dinger . Vanda Sanderiana. ... Vanda TricOlour ..-cccccccen Zygopetalum Crinitum
13 13 13 13 11 11 11 13 11 13 13
WP PW RWWWN PE
13 98 43 72 71 73 93 69 95 100 44
13
16
Now for Sale at all Booksellers
A CULTURAL TABLE OF ORCHIDACEOUS PLANTS
by J. MURRAY COX °
Illustrated in Colour and Black and White and containing more than 400 pages
Price per copy, 4 Guineas. (Postage |/- extra)
Published by
THE SHEPHERD PRESS
YURONG STREET, SYDNEY N.S.W., AUSTRALIA
Special Announcement to Orchid Enthusiasts
| have much pleasure in announcing the publication of THE CHARM OF GROWING ORCHIDS, by P. A. Gilbert. This is the first book on exotic orchids to be published in Australia, and com- prises 232 pages of general information, cultural notes, etc., and photographs.
Price: 21/-. Postage 1/- extra. Sole Publisher and Distributor:
N N :48 W ba St., Abbotsford—WA 1124 JOHN BISSET rete rnp eT 8906
Private: 8 Brisbane Avenue, (Also at City Markets every Friday)
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW
Volume II MARCH, 1946
The author of each article is responsible for the facts and opinions expressed therein.
CONTENTS
AINYSGSEO ee ‘ee Fle Retttins re thes ss ee eae he 4 Australian Orchid Review and the Co-operation of growers 99. mm 3 Awards issucd by the ©.S. of N.S.W., 1945 920 cc © sess cnt tees 4 Gattleyas mamas eneee Oe? mite weep “Lado Sad eh lig tigen to 11 Cypripedium, a talk on the genus 99 ee. © cee | ste te tte are 20 Charsrrclisrg ae te eS ee seg 8 inka Nace; IDES) ty yeh ee ee ake faethe = ale 22% Notes mt OLN OV Cesar ar? kat ee. oe ‘ei ss 6 Orchid Circle of Ceylon so set) citi rt, Sires ot, perl. MG) OrchidologyaeingeA Ustr al 12 it a waht: ig Mein Wee eas » 10 Queensland Orchid Society, Annual Report ee A ee ew 19 Oirzas Corn ca ne rs rib) oe Siphon es ie Hi 9 Selenipedium, Sedenii 9, ee ce es ek og ee 14 Scme Orchid Questions __..... Sook rae te, sec ko a ae 1K} Victorian cultural notes —_....» if Pg ee UR ee liek 5 Why the variation in hybrids? he pe ef ee ae 15
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS ; Chart, pollen and ovules Ss ee eae 8s Se ee act ALG Peart Cypripedum, Grand Monarch __..... Son pte nats ahhh) ane eri 2p : Cypripedium, Wendover, var. “V.E. Day” Ieeol cae “dee oe io 23 Dendrobium, Infundibulum ow, ene Hee em ire UO alee 2 L. C. Alata x L. C. Woden nes ee en Bante hon ee 13
Subscription Rates: Australia and New Zealand, 6/- per annum; Overseas, 6/- sterling per annum. Post free. Payable to Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney.
CARE YOUR ORCHIDS with PESTO XOL”
(LIQUID) "PESTOXOL" is specially suited for the treatment of Orchids and has been proven by actual tests in the bush-house and green-house.
" PESTOXOL" destroys Scale, Thrips, Red Spider, Green and Black Fly, Mealy Bug, Caterpillar, Blight: Gc and is perfectly safe in use not only on Orchids, but on Ferns and tender green- ouse plants. :
10oz, Bottles ......... 2/6 each. $ gallon Jars ......... 16/6 each: All Orchid Dealers and Seedsmen ars
F. H. FAULDING & CO. LTD. Gober wate
and Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Brisbane, and London (Eng.)
| i | | | | | |
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 2
*2]0D uiqoy &q ydrss0j04q “AyS'N ‘uPiusoyy ‘a1pooy Apsinyy &g umosy WNTINGIGNNANI WOIkOudNad
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 3
The Australian Orchid Review and the Co-operation of Growers
@ After many years’ experience of growing various genera of orchids, one is inclined to be- come very self satisfied with certain fixed ideas and methods concerning the culture of these plants. By following the same methods over a long period and enjoying a fair measure of success, one becomes conyinced that these methods are the correct ones; and when discus- sing matters of culture with other growers and different opinions are expressed, whether they may concern light, watering, manuring or divi- sion, etc., one is tempted to be cynical and doubt the wisdom of other growers’ opinion.
How often do we hear the remark “Just wait a year or two and see how many plants survive such treatment.” Yet despite the treatment we condemn, we see the same plants with others, exhibited time after time growing and flowering profusely. Surely therefore it becomes appar- ent that it is neither practical or possible to lay down strict rules or methods of culture that would suit every individual grower’s conditions. Success therefore must be gained by studying the local position and experimenting with the plants, at the same time observing other local 8rowers methods and ideas. Thus we discover that many of our self-formed theories may not be so good after all, and that the other fellow’s method has a lot to commend it. In order to gain the fullest assistance from all the known methods and benefit from any new and tried Ones, there must be co-operation and pooling of information between growers on all aspects of this fascinating hobby.
JM have found that, in Orchid culture, the incentive to help and advise the beginner is very Pronounced; but in many cases, the beginner 1s confused by the many and varied opinions expressed. As we have our Orchid Societies and
ubs in most of the States of the Common- wealth, surely no better opportunity could be Wished for to give that co-operation and pool- ing of informatoin than through our own indi- vidual Society. Given this free exchange of ideas and experiences our Societies possess and supply a wealth of information that is of vast assistance to members in their various problems and the means of improving certain difficult to Stow varieties in our collections.
_ Having reached this stage within our Socie- ties, why keep our knowledge within the boun- daries of the State? Should there not be the
same co-operation and pooling of information between the Societies as there is between grow- ers? No doubt the Hon. Editor of the Azs- tralian Orchid Review is thinking along parallel lines! As its title implies the A.O.R. should be thoroughly representative of all aspects of Or- chid culture throughout Australia and should be able to advise growers on their problems, and supply the latest information on all that per- tains to Orchids and their culture. It will be seen therefore that all Societies owe it to them- selves to see that all information and news is supplied to the Review, and the Review in its turn must publish information which will prove of value and interest to readers in various parts of the Commonwealth.
The A.O.R. should be a journal of interna- tional renown commanding the respect of grow- ers throughout the world. It should prove a valuable instrument of introduction to over- seas growers and result in a general exchange of plants and an interchange of ideas and items of general information, As a guide to Inter-state visitors it can be priceless. It should be the symbol of honest dealing and an incentive to membership of the local Society. One often hears the remarks, ““How easy they grow Cattleyas and Dendrobiums in Queensland” and “Cym- bidiums and Cypripediums do much better down South,” etc., etc. Now all these topics form splendid subject matter for the pooling of in- formation and co-operation between the Socie- ties and the A.O.R. and would make very help- ful articles for readers. With a brighter future ahead and a resumption of oversea importations the general pooling of information through a representative journal would prove a boon to all Societies throughout the continent. In con- clusion I look forward with confidence to see- ing the Australian Orchid Review at least main- tain its standard on the level of the English and American Journals as a source of informa- tion on all aspects of Orchid Culture in Aus- tralia.
And now may I send greetings from Queens- land to growers throughout the Common- wealth. May all their plants receive the itten- tion they deserve and prosper, and flower gen- erously throughout the year 1946.
C. A. HILSDEN, President Queensland Orchid Society.
Page 4
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
PERSONNEL
Hon. Editor: ASSOCIATES: W. WORTH Victoria: Queensland: pa Wardsse R. BRUCE HOGG L. C. HOME Willoughby, N.S.W. James Miller & Co. Pty. Ltd. 26 Taylor St. Phone: JA 1533 Dawson St. Buranda S.2 Brunswick N.10 Brisbane
Orchid Societies in the States not represented above are invited to nominate a representative.
Awards issued by the Orchid Society of N.S.W. during the year 1945
All awards carry the year and the State, thus: “Award of Merit 1945 N.S.W.” or “Silver Medal 1945 N.S.W.”
A condition of the granting of an award by the Orchid Society of N.S.W. is that a photograph of the plant be taken and left with the Society for future reference and identification. A necessary precaution that will be enforced now that photographic material is ayail-
able.
First Class Certificate and Silver Medal: (Grand Monarch, Hodgins variety), W. Fahey.
Silver Medal: Meritorious display of Cymbidiums and other orchids at Annual Exhibition, C. C. Hildebrandt.
Bronze Medal: A meritorious. display of miscellaneous Orchids, Dr. A. L. Lyell.
Bronze Medal: Collection of miscellaneous Orchids in- cluding native species, L. Sasso.
Award of Merit: Vanda, Sanderiana, N. S. F.°Mac- Donald. Cypripedium, Memphis, Hoggs var. W. Fahey. Cymbidium, Charm, var. Elegans, L. F.Hawley. Cym,- bidium® Balkis ,var. Patricia, C. C. Hildebrandt. Cym- bidium, Louis Sander x Falcon, Dr. J. A. Vote. Cymbid- ium, Louis Sander, var. Kirribilli, T. Burns. Cymbidium, Joy Sander, var. Don, A. R. Begg. Cypripedium, Wen- dover, var. V.E. Day, W. Fahey. Cymbidium, Girrah- ween, var. Glorious, C. R. Deane. Cymbidium, Cassan- dra, var. Snow Queen, F. Moulen. Cypripedium Emberton, R. Richards.
Highly Commended: B.L. Cattleya, The Friar, N. S. F. MacDonald. Cypripedium, Mildred Hunter, L. Cohen.
“Appreciation”
@ In the September issue of the A.O.R. Mr. Bruce Hogg contributed an article relative to a visit paid to Adelaide and his impressions of Orchid collections he inspected.
Mr. Hogg referred to one collection including Cymbidiums that were obviously starved and he was good enough to have samples of that grower’s composts analized, disclosing the fact that the p.H. values were definitely alkaline.
I would now like to disclose that those plants were part of my small collection.
Until Mr. Hogg’s disclosure I ridiculed some of the comments frequently expressed about
Cypripedium |
Cymbidium, Arabella, R. Dart. Cymbidium, Edzell, var. Elizabeth, C. C. Hildebrandt, Cymbidium, Swallow, var. Hebe, Dr. J. A. Vote. Cymbidium, Princess Elizabeth, var. Gillian, Dr. K. Kirkland. Cymbidium, Erica Sander, var. Tanandra, E. A. Hamilton. Lycaste, Skinneri, var. Excelsa, L. H. Newman. Cymbidum, Swallow, var. Con- quest, W. Rothwell. Cymbidium, Shirley, yar. Her Maj- esty, W. Rothwell. Dendrobium, Gatton Belle, Dr. A. C. Burstal.
Cultural Certificate, Peristeria, elata, C. Carter. Laelia Cattleya, Fascinator, A. E. Coleman, Laelia Cattleya, Pur- purata, A. E. Coleman. Oncidium, sphacelatum, L. Sasso.
p.H. values, but I am now convinced that care must be taken regarding it.
We have experienced three years of bad drought, and insufficient rainwater could be col- lected to tide us over the summer months and I perforce had to use reservoir water which has a p.H. value of 8.2 and higher.
Since last November, we have had some very helpful rains and I have three useful size tanks full to overflowing, and my plants have had none other than rain water since.
After visiting Melbourne in September, to enjoy the wonderful display of Orchids, I have’ repotted most of my Cymbidiums, using the spent Tan Bark Compost as used by Melbourne growers with remarkable results, but a dozen or more plants were left in the old compost without any other treatment other than water- ing them with rain instead of reservoir water— these plants are looking fine and making splen- | did growths.
I conclude that irrespective of the constitu- ents of the compost, if alkaline water is used, this will rapidly change the p.H. of the com- post to a high alkaline nature and the root sys- tem will perish.
I am deeply grateful for Mr. Hogg’s help and advice.
FRANK H. De ROSE.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 5
Victorian Cultural Notes March, April, May. R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vic.
@ The majority of your Cymbidiums should have developed flower spikes by the time this Is issued. Carefully examine the base of the new season’s growth, and if it is going to flower the flower spike will break from between the small bottom leaf and the second leaf or just outside the base of the growth. ‘The flower spike is sometimes rather difficult to recognise from an ordinary leaf growth, but it is usually rounder and more parallel and generally carries more colour than a leaf growth.
Now is the time in which you can give your plants feed for the coming flowering season, for there is little doubt that the quality of the flower is largely related to the vigour of the plant producing it. Some growers use Mile’s liquid cow manute for this purpose, fortnightly. I am not keen on it because I think it breaks the compost down too rapidly, and I prefer to use Clay’s fertiliser. This is obtainable from large seedsmen in capital cities. About a tea- spoonful of Clay’s sprinkled over the surface of the pot and watered in once a fortngiht should assist greatly. Clay’s also, has the fac- ulty of hardening the plants, and this is an- other reason why I prefer it to liquid manure, and I have heard growers express the opinion that perhaps through this hardening you get more flowers when using Clay’s as a fertiliser than with other fertilisers.
_ With your Cypripediums, those which are go- ing to flower should have the flower bud devel- Oped in the centre of last year’s growth. If you feel the base of the growth and feel a large lump there, that is the flower bud, and when this bud first makes itself known is the time When you should avoid overhead watering until the bud stands on its own stem quite clear of the foliage, for the flower buds are very subject to
town rot if water lays in the ape of the growth bearing them.
_, When you receive your copy of the Journal, if you have not already done it, this is an excellent time in which to clean up your plants and free them from disease, and I suggest that you endeavour to obtain an empty 123 gallon water drum, add one part of Volck to 40 parts of water, and one part of Pestoxol to about 60 Parts of water, and dip each plant in this mix- ture, being careful by use of the fingers to stop the soil from contacting the mixture. After
dipping, shake the plants well to remove the surplus mixture and lay on their sides until they dry. This will stop the further surplus from draining back along the stems into the soil. This should get rid of all scale, thrip and most other pests which worry your Orchids. ‘This also is the time when a determined attack should be made on slugs and snails, for they will play “Old Harry” with your flower buds if they are not exterminated. The surest way is to use an electric torch a few hours after sundown, search carefully for them and kill all that you find. As an added precaution use one of the standard slug and snail killers, but be sure you purchase one of post-war manufacture contain- ing meta.
When you receive this issue the sun will have started to lose a little of its strength, and a gradual relaxation in the use of shade should start on receipt of the issue, and shade should be completely eliminated about the end of April. During March, shade on all sunny days. During April, I would suggest that you shade only on unseasonably hot days, and in May, you discon- tinue altogether.
As your flower spikes grow use long stakes to support them, and encourage them to grow as you desire them to. The twisting that one sees with many Cymbidiums can be corrected with a little patience and a few stakes. Also, small cane stakes should be used to hold your Cypri- pedium flowers erect. ;
Cattleyas and Dendrobiums.—I would hope that by now the great bulk of your potting is done, but if you have not finished it, a few plants could be potted during March provided that new roots are breaking from the base of the last growth, but after the end of March forget all about potting until the following season.
As the sun loses its strength so should you reduce your watering with these genera, and also slowly reduce the shading until in June you use no shade whatever and give the plants practically no water on their soil, but you should always take advantage of sunny days by sprink- ling the benches and the floor.
As the new bulbs on your Dendrobiums de- velop their final two leaves they should be hung up near the glass and kept perfectly dry until the flower buds start to appear in the following Spring.
Page 6
Notes for Novices
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1949
|
T. H. JAMES, Hazelbrook, N.S.W. |
@ March, and Autumn is here again. At the approach of that season I am always reminded of the stanza of the Rubaiyat of Omar Khay- yam concerning the general wish to change this sorry scheme of things entire and then remould it nearer to the heart’s desire. Could I have my way I would lengthen summer and shorten the winter. A futile wish and so we must now prepare our Orchids for the coming cold season.
A reader recently wrote me a letter contain- ing some useful suggestions and friendly critic- ism. One of the subjects dealt with was the tendency to generalise in Review matter such as ‘ample ventilation,” ‘‘well drained,” ‘“‘moder- ate shading,” etc., which are of little practical help to novices. The criticism probably cover- ed articles by myself as I have a vague recollec- tion of having used those or similar terms. So I will endeavour to be more explicit in future.
Autumn is a difficult period for buds are now forming that will flower in the coming Winter and Spring. The days are shortening, the sun is no longer directly overhead and the temperature is dropping. The main trouble will be watering. When to and when not to. Firstly, all overhead watering should be discontinued except on those occasional very hot days which can occur in March. Generally, watering should be done in the mornings only, but still on every fine morning during March and early April and not at all on cold or cloudy days. Floor and _ benches could be damped to maintain humidity but during May that will be needed only occa- sionally. If the house contains foliage plants and/or has an earth flgor, the regular watering ‘of those plants would provide sufficient humid- ity during May. During fine weather of course, the bush house will dry out more quickly than a glass house and will consequently require more watering. :
With the best of intentions to be explicit I am afraid that is the best I can do. As with so many factors of Orchid growing watering is largely dependent on conditions. From my experience I am sure that some growers achieve success more by good luck than good manage- ment but, on general principles, it pays to give your plants individual attention as evidenced by the wonderful results achieved by some growers who act accordingly.
Ventilation.—For a considerable part of the day keep all ventilators open but during May
those on the western side could remain closed+ Even on cold nights allow some ventilation a5 natural heat cannot long be retained in a glass house after sundown and without a circulation of air the atmosphere would be cold and damp nstead of cold and dry.
Cymbidiums.—The great majority of grow- ers around Sydney confine themselves to Cym- bidiums although I am glad to see that general collections are on the increase. |
During March the flower spikes will be de veloping and in some cases may even be advanc- ed, Some growers believe—and I used to be one of them—that Cymbidiums should be kept on the dry side during February and March t0 encourage flowering. I now believe that iis wrong. The bulbs do not mature until long after the flower spikes appear and to withhold water during the growing period must, I shoul@ think, interfere with the development of thé bulb. You all know what happens in the gat- den when your plants get dry—stunted growth and poor flowers result. Cymbidiums are n? different and, in their natural habitat, there is not any dry spell when the new bulbs are but half developed. The flowers are there, in em- bryo, in the buds that are formed at the base of the maturing bulbs and will emerge the follow ing year from the half-matured new growths provided conditions be favourable. The maif factors are water, light and air. So keep the water going freely during the whole growing period. From April on evaporation will lesse# and watering should lessen correspondingly. Tw? or three times a week should suffice to keep thé compost just moist and no more. Liquid man- ure could be supplied about every ten days, if the case of early flowering varieties, up to thé time the buds begin to open. For the main an late crop no good purpose could be served by continuing this after about mid-April as th? development of the flower spikes slows dow# considerably during May, June and July and then begins to accelerate. Round about Sydney where the summer air is usually moisture lade# Cymbidiums do best in a very lightly shaded bush house but in dry districts I understand that good results can only be obtained under glass due, I presume, to the need for some humidity: There is not much moisture up here on thé mountains in the summer air so a few of mi?
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
have been placed in the glasshouse for testing purposes.
_The value of light is now generally recog- nised and from April even the thin covering that many provide could be dispensed with to permit as much sunlight as possible reaching the plants. Without abundance of light very little flowering may be expected.
Give your plants plenty of elbow room so
that abundance of light and air can reach not
the tips of the foliage only but the bulbs also. Light and air are very necessary for the full development of bulbs. It is only from well de- veloped bulbs that good flowers may be expected.
Cattleyas.—The December issue of The
Review had not appeared at the time of writ- ing these notes but I believe that the opposi- tion party has entered the arena again to insist on the necessity of winter heat for this genus. As I do not know the arguments that will be used I can only go my own way to further assure growers that this lovely genus can be successfully grown around Sydney and even further south without artificial heat in winter. I should certainly insist on a glass house al- though there are several isolated instances of successful bush house results. At the monthly meetings of the Orchid Society of New South Wales I believe that more Cattleyas are exhibited out of unheated houses than from heated houses. That does not imply that the majority of Cattleyas are grown in unheated houses. It is quite the contrary, but the reason why so few Cattleyas from heated houses are shown does not concern these notes.
Many Cattleyas, either because they made a late start in growing in the Spring and so could not produce their blooms before the winter, or because it is their habit, to flower in the early spring, develop their flower sheaths in the aut- umn but the buds remain dormant until Spring. The sheaths often become dry and porous and so absorb moisture which rots the buds. To avoid loss of the buds in this way it would be better to carefully split the sheath or remove it altogether. If a collection be small the plants could be brought on to a glassed-in verandah or somewhere similar which would be dry.
Overhead watering should be discontinued, except as mentioned, on an occasional very hot day. I find a useful method of watering during ‘the cooler months is to remove the nozzle of the hose so that a jet of water can be applied just
where required only and without wetting the foliage. Wet foliage on cold days or nights 1s apt to cause spotting. During April root
Page 7
action will slow down or.cease then give only sufficient water to keep the bulbs plump. If the weather be particularly cold or wet it would be better to allow a little shrivelling. One of the vital factors in growing Cattleyas in a cool house is, as I have stressed before, the com- post. If it contains any moisture retaining material such as moss, winter treatment will need great care as an apparently vigorous plant can quickly collapse during a cold winter if its roots are in a heavy, cold wet compost. I will deal with this point more fully in the next is- sue. Remember also, that shrivelling bulbs may be due to that heavy, wet compost and no to dryness in which case it would be better to risk immediate repotting to the almost certainty of losing the plant.
Dendrobiums.—Judging by what I have seen in recent years very few seem to have solved the problem of profuse flowering. Per- sonally I think there is nothing more lovely than a well flowered plant of Dendrobium, par- ticularly Den. nobile, nobile hybrids and Den. Wardianum. They should flower from top of bulb to within a few inches of the base. On one occasion I saw a large plant of Den. nobile with over 70 blooms per bulb. I once had nearly 500 blooms on a plant but I suspect luck had quite a lot to do with that as I have never had anything like it since. I used to get plenty of flowers in Sydney, but here, in spite of the cold, the plants rarely ever take a rest but just keep on growing resulting in rather poor flowering. I have obtained the best results by growing them in the glass house during the Summer months, with plenty of humidity, and then in the aut- umn, transferring them to a place where they get protection from rain and cold winds but plenty of air and light. From April on keep them on the dry side even to a little shrivelling. When that occurs water well and then dry again. A structure completely open to the north and with a glass roof would, I think, be ideal. In the next issue I will deal with some of the best species for a novice to grow.
Cypripediums.—This genius is now likely to cause considerable trouble as the flower buds are forming and much care is needed to pre- vent them rotting. There should be no over- head watering, but water should be given every day in March and April, and every other day or even less in May. Much will depend on the composts. Close composts will retain moisture for long periods during the cool months. Obser- vation only can determine requirements but they must not be allowed to become dry. Plants pot-
Page 8
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Cypripediums
WALLY FAHEY, Waverton, N.S.W.
@ The growers of Cypripediums are getting quite a thrill out of their plants, as from now on they look forward to a feast of flowers from these interesting subjects. Some of the early varieties have flowered or are in flower, and the buds should be showing up in the others that are to flower later on.
When the flower spike is about 6 inches high it is a good idea to put a neat thin stake in the pot and tie the flower stem to it. You will find later on that the flower will show itself to
ted in pure tan bark last spring will require wat- ering every day but after twelve months the bark rots down somewhat and retains moisture longer so every second day should be sufficient in May. Use the hose without the nozzle as previously suggested or dip the pots. Some of the leaves may turn yellow during the autumn. This is natural; they have served their purpose so remove them.
Thunias.—Keep the water going until the leaves turn brown. Then, round about Sydney, turn the pots on their sides under the shade of a tree.
In cold districts they should be moved to a glass house or some other frost free place.
Phaius.—With me Phaius grandifolius, in the absence of heat, died last winter, but P. Wallichii and P. Norman are growing luxurient- ly, the very cold winter making no impression on them beyond delaying their flowering which was good at Christmas. In Sydney I grew them well outside among the Cymbidiums but moved them into the glass house for the winter. Many of this genus were exhibited at the Sydney shows last September and attracted much atten- tion. They have broad, bright green leaves up to three feet long. The erect flower spikes, which may be four feet in length, carry many large attractive flowers.
Ceologyne cristata.—This should be in every collection. It has short, round, bright green bulbs with two bright green leaves. It produces sprays of large snow white long last- ing flowers with a bright yellow lip in Spring. Whilst it requires a cool shady place in summer and copious watering in Autumn it should be given more light and air to encourage flower buds to develop. In Winter it should have a sheltered position. Compost will be dealt with in next issue.
advantage if it has received this little attention.
Cypripediums will soon begin to appreciate a little warmth, for we will soon have the cold weather with us again. In the Winter I like to keep the temperature not below 50 degrees.
Water your plants in the morning, during the Winter months and as the cold weather ap- proaches you will need to be careful with over- head watering. If the water remains around the flower buds that are just showing up from be- tween the leaves there is a great chance of them damping off and thus losing the result of 12 months work. This damping off occurs because the air keeps moist longer in the colder months as there is very little drying out from the shorter period of daylight, the lower angle of the sun’s rays and its modified heat.
When the water lodges in the flower sheath it remains there overlong and causes the rot. Keep an eye on the plants and see that no water is left around the flower sheath. A good idea is to hold the plants upside down after watering, when they are in bud, until the water runs out of the crown of the plant, more especially for any particularly good varieties which you might be waiting to flower for the first time, it is heartbreaking to see a bud damp off on a new plant when with a little extra care this could have been avoided.
When the flowers commence to fade and die do not let them remain on the plant until they are dead but cut them off and instead of the plant exhausting its energy on a dying flower it will decide to make new roots and growths quickly. Remember these plants are relying on you to look after them and if you attend to their needs, I am sure they will show their ap- preciation.
I usually repot my plants about August but if you do not use heat it might be advisable to wait until about September when the chill of the Winter is departing.
In early July we will again have our Cypri-
_pedium Show and judging by the interest taken
in the last and the number of new growers, we look forward to a very nice display of blooms. See that your plants are looking their best for this display by cleaning the pots, washing the foliage and “topping off” the pots with some nice green moss (if you can get any) so that your plants will look 100% when exhibited on the Show bench.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 9
The Quiz Corner Conducted by Dr. 0. R. KIDD
Question: Cattleyas?
Answer: Cattleyas suffer from repotting to an extent greater than the terrestrials because of their clinging roots and many have been the devices to avoid injury to these roots, none of which are successful in my experience. It fol- lows that the best time to repot is to select a Stage in the plant’s growth when you will, im- mediately after repotting, develop a new root system. So the optimum time to repot is when the leading bulb is showing one or two blunt Toot eyes. This stage will occur at any period of the year because of the mixed parentage of modern hybrids, but usually it will be in spring or summer. Before the new lead gets its new roots the old roots will have commenced to 8row again and these feed the new lead through the old bulbs before it has roots of it’s own and the drain of food on the old bulbs by the grow- ing lead is constantly replenished so give the plant the benefit of this stage and wait until the newest lead shows it’s first root buds. This may be when the new lead is only an inch high or the new lead may grow into an adult leaved bulb and even flower before these new roots appear on it. But if you wait until this time you will ensure a new root system through the compost immediately after potting that will feed the last made bulb and give it the neces sary reserevs to begin next year’s growth in a robust manner and to maintain it’s speed and tate of growth so that it will have the size and
Strength to flower without missing one or even two seasons,
How to repot?
When and how should I repot my
Genien Clean the plant, cut off all at Cots, prune the live ones back. to two Renes and avoid above all snapping them at the origin from the rhizome — pruning them very shot is about the only way that offers any Prospect of success in this if they are to be Pered in fibre, or fibre and moss. Long roots Be a uaa are inevitably broken, crushed, ae nd dragged from their union with the 'zome and will die and afford a focus for rot and decay in the centre of the compost. ae plant taken apart and examined six weeks atter repotting would afford a revelation to many growers—as there often is not one of the Original roots alive and if they have not chosen the correct time to repot the plant must exist rootless (virtually a large backcut) until the newest lead establishes a new root system. If you use the conventional compost and method
—use fibre only (black osmunda or todea) thor- oughly washed, and packed from the edges in towards the centre of the pot as hard and as tight as is possible. Place the plant at the edge of the pot and select a pot that will give three years’ growth but use only the best compost materials to stand the three-year potting inter- val. A plant of more than three fully leaved bulbs is a useless waste of the bulbs behind. The rhizome should be cut and a separate plant made if the eyes are good and ‘repotted in the same pot side by side with the front part of the plant, or else laid on moss until it leads and shows the first evidence of new roots when it should immediately be potted..
Repot with the rhizome on the top of solid compost, and stake the plant. Place green moss about the rhizome, loosely, and keep damp. Re- move the moss when the roots are through it and into the fibre. Keep the newly potted plant moist but not wet and at all times the drainage of the compost and the pot must be perfect and well aerated.. Cigarette smoke gent- ly blown through the drainage hole, should ooze through the top of the compost for some min- utes after the pot is set back in its place.
So much for the conventional method. Here is the only method I have ever evolved that reasonably avoids the inevitable damage at re- potting.
Take a large pot and knock the drain- age hole into quite a large hole. Cover with a large curved crock and if the pot is deep, as it usually is with a wide pot, invert a suitably sized pot over the hole, say a 4-inch or even 5- inch inverted pot in a 9-inch pot. Fill the space between the two pots with graded crocks, large on the bottom, small on the top. Fix in a stake that will support the plant by any of its bulbs after potting is complete.
Mix a compost, of charcoal, sieved to give pieces from the size of a pea to a walnut (1 part), crocks, sieved to give the same size (1 part) tan bark fresh to six months old through a 4-inch sieve and use the residue in the sieve (2 parts) and if obtainable some chopped up oak leaves or leaves from any of the English trees (1 part). If this latter is not available use 3 parts tan bark instead of 2 parts. I use a plant of 2 or 3(often 2) fully leaved adult bulbs in a 9-inch pot. It should give room for 4 or § years’ growth and each 2 years the plant is cut to make new ‘plants, each of 2 bulbs, in the same pot without repotting.
Page 10
Fill the pot to the top with the mixed com- post, place the plant om it (no roots are dam- aged after the pruning) and stake the plant, moss the top. In a few months the plant is firm, in six months you can lift the pot with the plant—and at any time after this the compost can be renewed, by inverting the pot, shaking it, hosing it out on its side with a strong hose jet, and refilling with the same compost, fresh and without any damage to the root system. No bulb on any individual plant in the pot should be more than 3 years old at any time. An older bulb would have no live active roots,
“and exist at the expense of the rest of the plant
as.a unit and consequently it should be removed and made to work by producing a new plant as a back cut. There is no space to discuss handling or other aspects of culture within the scope to the answer to the grower’s query but this method gives the following cultural advan- tages. ‘
1. It permits the plant to grow as an epiphyte and not as a semi-terrestrial in a compost degenerated into mush after a year, at least in the central and deeper areas.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
2. It is a “natural compost” of tree bark, burnt wood and stone and leaf.
3. Its stage of wetness can be admirably con- trolled. It can be drowned with water in summer and its growing period and within a day can be almost dried. It can thus be kept damp in resting time or dry (for short periods) in winter. It need never be wet too long and will give you the cardinal requirements of a tropical orchid, moist and warm, mever cold and wet—and never dry and hot unless you are too lazy to water it.
4. It gives perfect aeration and ventilation.
It allows replacement of compost, without
repotting, and the consequent damage and
interference to the plant.
6. It is reasonable, and departs from the con- ventional approach that is a legacy from traditional English culture in a climate that is quite different, and with different ‘“Shand- ling” from that obtaining in England and has proven a success, after critical experi- ment and analysis, under the conditions ob- taining in my own glasshouse with my own idea of “handling.”
“
The Study of Orchidology im Australia
Rev. H. M. R. RUPP, Northbridge, N.8S.W.
@ At the Sydney meeting of the Australian and New Zealand Association for the Advance- ment of Science in August 1932, a masterly address on “Some Developments in Orchidology” was delivered by the President of the Botany Section, the late Dr. R. S. Rogers. This address was itself probably the most notable contribu- tion to the study of Orchidology ever made by an Australian; and in my obituary notice of Dr. Rogers in this Review I mentioned that it served as the thesis for which, in his 75th year, the degree of D.Sc. was conferred upon him by Adelaide University.
It is a testimony to the importance attributed to the study of the Family Orchidaceae, that the term “Orchidology” should have won world- wide recognition in botanical circles. The Or- chid Society of New South Wales is not, I am fully aware, a botanical society. But although it is, in the main, an association of growers whose primary purpose is the culture of the more “spectacular” forms of Orchids, and who are banded together in order to advance this purpose by the friendly exchange of views and experiences, I should like to remind members that this does not cover the whole scope of the
Society’s original intentions, It was expressly stated at the foundation of the Society in 1934 that one of its objects should be “the advance- ment of all that pertains to Orchids.” This very comprehensive statement surely includes the encouragement of the Study of Orchidology as a branch of scientific botany. I confess to some doubt whether such encouragement is in evidence to-day, though it did exist. for a few years.
Speaking personally, I should like to see every new Australian Orchid described and _ pub- lished in the Australian Orchid Review; and further, I consider that it would be fitting (and it would certainly enhance the prestige of the Society) that every new contribution to the study of Australian Orchids should appear in this journal. But we cannot move in this dir- ection unless the Society is prepared to make reprints of such articles available to the authors. Those of us who are endeavouring to contribute something to the progress of Australian orchid- ology cannot dispense with reprints, for the articles, if of any importance, must be dis- tributed among botanical circles both in and beyond Australia. Not being millionaires, we
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
cannot afford to buy sufficient extra copies of the journal for this purpose; therefore we are compelled to accept the generous hospitality of other periodicals, such as those of the Linnean and Royal Societies, and several of the Naturalist Societies. All these allow reprints. Of course, in urging that the Orchid Society should do ikewise, I am not suggesting that an unlimited supply of reprints should be provided free of cost. Most of the Societies allow a fixed number, and make a charge for any required over that number. With a membership such as our Soci- ety enjoys, it should surely be possible to allow 30 reprints. They need not be printed on the same high quality paper as the journal itself; clear print is all that is necessary. ,
I believe that if this were done, the circula- tion of the Review would expand considerably before long. I should be pleased to discuss the matter with those most directly concerned.
Since the publication of the late Dr. Rogers’ address alluded to above, many minor contri- butions to Australian orchidology have appear- ed in different publications in the various States. These have consisted chiefly of descriptions of
Page II
new orchid varieties or species or even genera, revisions and corrections of older publications found to be inadequate or faulty, and articles on pollination, distribution, etc. I need scarce- ly point out what an advantage it would be to have all such contributions published in the same journal. In the Victorian Naturalist for August, 1945, I published an Index of Austra- lian Orchids described or recorded from 1900 to 1945, giving references to the original de- scriptions or records. In order to do this, no fewer than twenty-four different journals and
» publications had to be cited—some of them not
even Australia. How much it would simplify matters for future students of Orchids yet to be discovered, if all such references could be made to the Awstralian Orchid Review!
Editor: At a subsequent interview with the Rey. H. M. R. Rupp I was able to inform him that reprints were discontinued during the war in order to conserve paper stocks, and that the A.O.R. is now in a position to com- ply with his request. Rey. H. M. R. Rupp is recognised both here and overseas as an authority on Australian Orchids. We are indeed fortunate in having among our members one so skilled in Orchidology. Space will be gladly made available for the purposes indicated and readers can be assured that the matter will not be unduly technical.
Cattleyas (Continued from September Issue) L. F. HAWLEY, Lindfield, N.8.W.
@ The large majority of growers water their Plants much too frequently. Those who water their plants almost ‘every day during the grow- Mg season and several times during the week in fale abusing their plants. It needs aie ong t and no analysis to hang on to the oats a oe and water just because it was “‘a ey pie or days” since you previously watered
maybe you have set days say twice a week or Carrying out this important work. The sec- oe Toutine is better than the first for at least
© gfower is exercising some form of control ee St but both methods are totally in- ee Ask such growers why they water : ch day or several times a week or even every ee aa Ges a Sunday morning job ee y) and they cannot supply a logical ie fata i) in good condition and the bulbs A Plump it does not need water even though
€ compost be as dry as a bone. Watch the Plants in your collection closely. Their appear- ance—the loss of some of the shine from the faves or a very slight shrivelling of the bulbs will indicate that the plants need watering. The watering should then be generous. You do not
water properly by saturating the pot for a minute or so and then repeating the process with the rest of the plants. The compost and the pot itself cannot be so easily wet in its then very dry condition. The plants during the summer should when ready to receive a water- ing be watered well in the evening and again the following morning. By adopting this method the plants receive a thorough watering and according to the size of the pot and atmos- pheric conditions inside the glass house should not need for a small pot say 5-inches further watering for about 10 days and two to three weeks for ten and twelve-inch pots. A vigor- ous specimen Brassolaelio Cattleya which pro- duced 42 flowers last year in my collection in = 50-inch pot is watered about three times during the whole summer and its requirements by its appearance and condition would be mis- interperated if water was to be applied more frequently. There is no good reason: or ex- cuse for watering a plump plant or even one somewhat in need of water which is commenc- ing to root from the leading bulb. More often than not the application of water to such a
Continued on Page 14
Page 12
CYPRIPEDIUM GRAND MONARCH F.C.C. and Silver Medal, O.S. of N.S.W., 1945 Grown by W. Fahey, Waverton, N.S.W.
Dendrobium Infundibulum
@ The plant illustrated with 35 fine white butterfly-like flowers was grown for several years in the ordinary way in fibre and no fer- tiliser with little success. Following the advice of a friend I treated my Dendrobiums nobile and this plant with Shirleys No. 5 fertiliser— about a salt-spoon full to each 6-inch pot twice in the growing season. In each case a marked improvement in growth, especially the foliage, followed.
The bulbs are thicker and the foliage hard and glossy and not so easily burnt by the sun.
MURRAY MOODIE.
@ Import of Orchids—The Hon. Secretary of the Orchid Society of N.S.W. has been ad- vised. officially that applications for the impor- tation of limited quantities of Orchids from U.K. would be favourably considered. Applications should be made to Department of Import Procurement, William Street, Sydney.
Regular N.S.W. Contributors:
Rev. H. M. R. Rupp—Australian Orchids, T. H. James—Notes for Novices.
Dr. J. Vote—Answers Your Questions. Wally Fahey—Cypripediums.
L. F. Hawley—Cattleyas.
®@Dendrobiums.—Are usually potted the same way as Cattleyas—firmly in fibre. Many other materials have their devotees and have proved useful. Potting should be done just as the — young roots begin to show.
@ An All-Purpose Spray for Orchids as Used by Mr. A. A. Robertson, Hamilton, N.S.W.
6 lbs. soft soap, 10 ozs. black leaf forty, 10 ozs. household ammonia, 1 oz. ti-tree oil, 1 oz: turps pure, 1 gal. water.
Keep in a container and use from stock as required mixed with water thin enough to us¢ as a spray.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 13
L. C, ALATA X L. C. WODEN
~
“Grown by T. E. Donnelly, Brisbane, Q. Photo by Dorothy Coleman.
@ The Orchid Circle of Ceylon.—The release from military service of an Orchid celebrity of Ceylon, Dr. E. Soysa, will be welcomed by all who have enjoyed his writings on Orchid mat- ters, both within and outside Ceylon.
As Editor of Orchidologia Zeylanica,? Dr. Soysa put Ceylon on the map of the Orchid world many years ago. During the war he won fresh literary laurels as Editor and chief author of a celebrated volume, Orchid Culture in Cey- lon, which has been acclaimed throughout the world as an outstanding reference work on trop- ical Orchid culture. This book, which found him a wide sale in Australia before it went out of print, was published in aid of the Ceylon Red Cross, which has benefited to the extent of about £900 Australian currency from its profits.
Dr. Soysa, who served as a Major in a medical unit in Ceylon, and rose to the rank of ‘Tempor- ary Lieutenant-Colonel in charge of a medical division in an important Army hospital, worked at one time together with doctors of the Aus- tralian Army Medical Corps. During four years of Army service, he has made important literary contributions on problems such as asthma and
malaria in the services, and his work has gained prominence in the British Medical Journal, and other medical publications.
ANNUAL EXHIBITION @
The Orchid Society of N.S.W. will hold its
Annual Exhibition
this year on
11th, 12th, 13th SEPTEMBER
BIGGER BETTER BRIGHTER THAN EVER.
Page 14
plant will cause these new roots which have not yet reached the compost to brown off or at least the root action will be checked fo rseveral days. The correct procedure is to wait until the roots have gone well into the compost and if the plant by its appearance needs watering then let it have it and the roots will suffer no harm.
Under Australian conditions it is necessary for the proper cultivation of Cattleyas under glass to provide a moist atmosphere during the whole year. Ponds in which gold fish may be kept under the benches is a good help in this direction but ponds by themselves are not suffi- cient. If you aim for a 60° F. minimum winter temperature (see previous article in September 1945 issue regarding winter temperature) damping down throughout the whole year to increase the moisture content of the air must be resorted to. Never permit the floor or the surface of the benches to dry out. Experience will prove that the glass house will tend to dry out and need damping down just as frequently in the winter as in the summer.
In winter fire-heat is necessary to maintain the requisite 60° F. minimum temperature the heat having a drying effect. In summer the ventilators must be kept open and this has the same result. Houses should be damped down at least twice each day all of the year. During the hot summer period it is hardly possible to overdo this operation and if swamp-like condi- tions can be maintained on the floor and benches so much the better. It is assumed that the house is provided with a bottom bench, i.e., a bench containing a moisture holding material over which a staging is built to accommodate the plants. When damping down it is import- ant that the plants themselves and the pots are not wet in the process. This would upset the control of watering previously referred to and would quickly have an adverse effect. It will be found by close observation of your plants in a heated glass house that it is sometimes neces- sary, especially during a very cold period in winter to water the plants just as often as in the summer, the added heat in the pipes to maintain the 60° F. minimum causing the pots to dry out very quickly. Hot drying atmos- phere also has a dehydrating effect on the plants.
Whilst Cattleyas at all times require a warm moist atmosphere close muggy or draughty con- ditions must be avoided. Such conditions may be overcome in the summer by the proper man- ipulation of the ventilators both bottom and top having regard for the direction of the wind. In the winter very little top air is necessary is necessary and much greater use should be made
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
of the bottom ventilators which during mild weather can be fully opened. At all times pro- vides as much air (ventilation) as the glass house can take subject to the proper indoor temperature range. The latter is referred to in the previous article in this series.
(To be continued.)
Selenipedium Sedenii
@ The plain narrow green leaves average about 18 inches in length. The pretty pink flowers somewhat resemble cypripediums but a num. ber of flowers are carried on the slender spikes.
Mr. W. Brierley, N.S.W., grows them and many other orchids in a glass house on rather novel lines.
The plants grow in tan bark, and the pots stand in large shallow trays of water. ‘The roots, particularly those of Nobile and other dendrobiums often growing over the pot and extending a considerable distance in the water. The plants have thrived on this treatment which has the advantage of providing constant h:mid- ity and also checks wogs and crawling pests.
Mr. Brierly says: The following is the method I used in growing Selenipedium Sedenii. The pot is half full of pieces of broken brick about one inch in diameter. The potting material is old tan bark with the fine stuff sieved out. The pots are kept in about one inch of water in shallow galvanised iron trays. The water is kept in the tray for nine months of the year, letting it go dry in the Winter months June, July and August.
In the warmer months the plants receive a light watering overhead daily, and in the cold months they receive it once or twice a week, according to their needs. I have been growing this Orchid in this manner for the last 20 years although tan bark has been used for the last 3 years only.
Previously I used the local Banksia root fibre. Tan bark is superior. It is an interesting point that when repotting most of the roots are found to be down among the broken brick.
®@ Dendrobiums.—Damp down plants and sur- roundings at least once a day during the warm Summer days, preferably in the evenings. @Victorian Meeting Dates.——The March meeting will be held at the Australian Church Hall, on Monday, the 18th, the April meeting on Monday, the 15th, and the May meeting on Monday, the 20th.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 15
Why the Variation in Hybrids?
A. B. PORTER, Eastwood, N.S.W. >
@ Every Orchid grower must, sooner or later pause to wonder how all the different shapes and colours arise in the hundreds of different Orchid hybrids. After all, the number of par- ent species of Cymbidiums, for example, is quite small and yet every year at our Orchid shows we see endless variety of colour, tall spikes, drooping spikes, spotted lips, horse-shoe lips, good Cymbidiums, bad Cymbidiums in count- less variations. How can this be?
18 question, applied not to Orchids in par- ar but to heredity in general, remained an unsolved problem for centuries in spite of num- crous theories which attempted to capture the elusive underlying laws. Then, in 1865 a paper NES published by an Austrian monk Gregor Mendel, giving the results of eight years’ pati- ee research into the effects of hybridisation in ett and although little notice was taken of His yeas at the time, this work and the laws a erived from it are the foundation stones on which the modern science of genetics is built.
sea Mendel began his work he chose the Be ues ordinary green pea, mainly for
(a) There existed a number of true breed- ing forms with distinct characters.
(b) The hybrids are fertile.
(c) They are normally self-fertilising and the risk of accidental hybridisation is small.
en pte of types were chosen, the mem- seals pair differing clearly in some char- tall a €.g., round seeds and wrinkled seeds, see and short plants, yellow seeds and ete s a SO on. Crosses were effected by sada & the anthers from immature flowers wc tater, when the flowers were mature, fer-
tilisi : sing them with pollen from the other mem- er of the pair.
5 os an example, Mendel crossed a yellow-seed- ate us mi a green-seeded type sixty times, aon oe cing made both ways and all the aaa uced were yellow. It must be re- oa ered that the seed belongs to the new alth ep so we have the surprising fact that Seas all these seeds had one green-seeded eet and half of them were produced by wee 4 ich normally produced green seeds, all ae ne es and in all the other pairs of varie-
Hts aie a eS one of the differing characters to the Clusion of the other.
ticul
the same way, the hybrid repro--
What had happened to the character which had disappeared? Had it been lost entirely or was it still present but concealed?
In the hope of finding this out, Mendel plant- ed his hybrid yellow seed and allowed the re- sulting plants to produce seed by self fertilisa- tion in the normal way. Over seven thousand seeds resulted, of which 75 per cent. were yel- low and 25 per cent. were green. Evidently the green-seed character had still been present in the hybrid yellow seed and had reappeared in the next generation, but why three times as many yellow as green?
Next the yellow and green seeds were sown separately, each bed containing all the seed from one plant and now a new complication arise. All the green seeds bred true, producing only green seeds even when bred through ten generations, but of the plants grown from the yellow seeds, one third bred true, producing only yellows, and two thirds behaved in exactly the same manner as the first hybrid yellow seeds, producing yel- low and green in the ration 3 to 1.
Let us put these results in the form of a diagram.
YELLOW X GREEN
f ALL YELLOW (self sata)
Ta j j i Yellow Yellow Yellow Green
( { { J All Yellow 3 Yellow 3 Yellow All Green 1 Green 1 Green
Clearly the original hybrid seed, although all yellow, contained the factors for yellow and green obtained from the two parents, but since the yellowness prevailed ,Mendel calls yellow the dominant in this case and green the reces- sive.
These factors are now called genes and every living cell contains some thousands of them each controlling the heredity of one or more charac- teristics of the organism. In a pure breeding species they occur as pairs of identical genes, thus each cell in the pure-bred yellow-seeded pea has two genes for yellow-seededness, but the pollen grains and the embryo seeds (ovules) be- fore fertilisation have only oneveach, a pair be- ing formed again at fertilisation.
When Mendel crossed the yellow with the green he started a civil war in each developing seed, for each seed contained one gene trying
Page 16
to make the seed yellow and one trying to make it green. The yellow won in every case, so the yellow is called-dominant over the green. The plants grown from these hybrid seeds also have one of each kind of gene in each of their cells, but when they flower the pollen grains and ovules each contain only one gene controlling seed colour, so what will happen? The two genes which came together when the hybrid was _ formed will separate completely so that each pollen grain and each ovule contains either a gene for yellow seed or a gene for green seed, but never a portion of each.
If an ovule formed by the hybrid carries the yellow seed gene it can be fertilised by a pollen grain carrying the same kind of gene to produce a pure breeding yellow seed, or by a pollen grain carrying the green-seed to form a hybrid.
Similarly an ovule with a green-seed gene can produce a hybrid or a pure-breeding green de- pending on whether the pollen grain which fer- tilises it carries yellow or green. ‘These are the only four possible combinations that can result and they yield one pure-breeding yellow, two hybrid yellows and one pure-breeding green out of every four seeds produced. In Fig. 1 we saw that Mendel obtained exactly this result when he allowed his hybrid plants to seed.
So far we have only been concerned with the case where the parents of a hybrid differed in a single characteristic, but often they may differ in several, so Mendel next chose parents which differed clearly in two different qualities. When he crossed a variety of pea having round yellow seed with another variety having green wrinkled seeds, al Ithe hybrid seeds were round and yel- low, round being dominant over wrinkled, and yellow dominant over green. These doubly hybrid seeds were grown and the plants allowed to seed, when four visible combinations occurred in the following proportions in more than five hundred seeds collected:
9 round and yellow.
3 round and green.
3. wrinkled and yellow.
1 wrinkled and green. per sixteen seeds collected.
This result can readily be explained in terms of genes. We saw that each plant cell in a pure type contains two genes for each charac- teristic, so the parent producing round yellow seeds contains two genes for roundness and two for yellowness of seeds. This is represented by the symbcls RRYY, the capital letters being used for the dominants. It is customary to rep- resent a recessive by the same letter as the cor-
| AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946— responding dominant but to use the small let- ters, thus the genes for green seeds and wrinkled seeds are denoted by rryy. .
}
TYPES OF POLLEN © RY Re bY )
Hy peomO ON UIIEE
ru Fig. 2.
The pollen grains and ovules each contait” only one of each pair of genes, so when the tw pure types are crossed, either pollen RY plus ovule ry gives hybrid RrYy of pollen ry plus ovule RY gives hybrid RrYy, the hybrids produced by the opposite crosses being identical, Since the hybrid contains one domin- ant gene for roundness and one dominant gené for yellowness the hybrid seeds are round an yellow.
When the hybrid plant produces pollen and
ovules, each will be of four types: IAG, A FA Tie
each containing one gene for seed colour and one for seed shape, but with the dominants an recessives combined at random. In the subse- quent self-fertilisation to produce seed, each. type of pollen will combine with each type of ovule to give sixteen different groupings of the genes as shown in Fig. 2. Each symbol repre- sents the hybrid produced by fertilisation of the ovule type shown at left of the row by the pollen type shown at the head of the column. The shape of each symbol represents the shapé of the resulting seed, round or wrinkled, the shaded ones being green, while the clear ones are yellow. Thus the one in the heavy square has ‘obtained from the ovule one gene for wrinkl seed and one for yellow. From the pollen grain it has obtained one for round seed and oné
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
for green. Since round is dominant over wrinkl- ed and yellow is dominant over green, the seed 1s round and yellow. ‘The seed represented by the symbol in the bottom right-hand corner will be green and wrinkled because neither the ovule nor the pollen contained a gene for domin- ant yellow or round. eae you count the types in Fig. 2 you will round and_ yellow. round and green. wrinkled and yellow.
1 wrinkled and green ang this is the proportion obtained by Mendel in 1s experiments,
From all these results, obtained not only with seed colour but with other pairs of characteris- tics, Mendel derived two laws which may be stated as follows:—
Mendel’s First Law: The factors (genes) affecting development remain unchanged from generation to generation and do not become Contaminated when mixed in a hybrid. They
€come sorted out from each other when game-
Ww WO
tes (reproductive cells) are formed.
pee pe ceed Law: Each pair of cor- eae Ing factors behaves independently in ita ae In other words the manner in aa ge actors are grouped in the parents ea ect on the grouping in subsequent lybrid generations. & e fee a still holds good but the second ci ate modified as it has been found pecan genes are linked together and show wane y to remain in the same combinations A generation to generation. eee ae amount of research has been Oreiieeney ane Mendel’s day, even some on Saale a as been abundantly proved that Sie work touched the magic spring that i ed the fundamental secret of heredity. 5 RCRD now summarise our results with Or- mind.
Saree Fee guns types are crossed to- Sas y rids are all the same in the first rethetes mace if the parnts differ in several lrg is is why you can recognise Pau- - 4, Lowi-Eburneum, Lowi-Grandiflorum, ‘ ee cand! tes first-cross Cymbidiums. Some fee egg does ‘occur but it is no greater the variation in the species themselves. © Story is very different when we go to faa napee generation by self-fertilising a hy- gees Sere two hybrids together. We saw aly ee at if the original parents differ in = respects, there are four visibly differ- types in the second generation hybrids. If
the Ss
Page I7
they differ in three characteristics there are eight, and if in ten characteristics no fewer than 1024 different combinations occur in the second hy- brid generation, even without introducing more than two species into the parentage of the hy- brid.
Now some of our hybrids have several species in their parentage and have been bred through a small number of hybrid generations. A good example is Cym. Regulus (Céres x Regale) which is derived from five species and is a sixth generation hybrid. If we trace its ances- try back through six generations we find that its sixty-four great-great-great-grandparents (every creature, man, beast or plant has sixty- four of them!) consisted of 36 insigne, 16 l’An- sonii, 6 Lowianum, 5 Eburneum and 1 Tracy- anum. For any one characteristic, each of these species may have a different kind of gene, but a plant of Regulus cannot have more than two kinds of gene to control any particular charac- teristic. =:
Thus for example if season of flowering is controlled by a single pair of genes, the flower- ing time of a particular plant of Regulus will not be an average of the flowering times of all the five species, allowing for the proportions in which they occur. It will depend on two genes only, one of which must come from In- signee or l’Ansonii (the parents of Ceres) while the other may come from Insigne, Lowianum, Eburneum or Tracyanum which are all in the parentage of Regale. F
Since Tracyanum is the only early flowerer of the five species used, a plant of Regulus could only be early flowering if in each generation the parent which had descended from Tracyanum contained the early-flowering gene. If the breeder had at any stage chosen a parent which did not contain this gene then no early flowering plants would subsequently appear in the prog- eny and all the plants of Regulus would flower late.
Very little work on the heredity of Orchids has been published, no doubt due to the length of time and the amount of patience that would be required to carry out any comprehensive breeding tests, but some experiments with Cat- tleyas and Cypripediums have produced results in line with Mendel’s laws.
An interesting example concerns albino Cat- tleyas. In many kinds of flower the presence of colour is controlled by two pairs of genes and if either pair is replaced by a pair of genes lacking the power to generate colour an albino results. It has been found that this applies to Cattleyas. Two albino Cattleyas were found of
Page 18
Some Orchid Questions
‘I recently received the September issue of the A.O.R. and was indeed pleased to read the article by Rev. H. M. R. Rupp.
I had read the introduction to his book and felt at the time that the information should re- ceive wider distribution, for so many collectors have no definite idea regarding the factors which make an Orchid different from another flower.
Along this same line I have had some ques- tions bothering me, and I would appreciate any information or reference which would assist in answering them.
Firstly: What are the New and Old World Orchids, and what distinguishes them?
Secondly: What are the large Tribes and Sub-tribes which are at times referred to?
Thirdly: Where can one find a layman’s botanical description of the various genera?
Fourthly: When we say that the Orchid is the most highly developed or organised plant, what is meant, and why is that more specialised than some other arrangement?
Possibly some of this information is avail- able in literature, but so far I have not been fortunate enough to find such specific refer- ences.
Another interesting feature would be a chart or genetic tree. Sincerely yours,
R. S. DAVIS, Major A.C. Hq. FEASC. APO. 323, U.S. Army Manila P.
Editor: The Rev. H. M. R. Rupps’ article in the September, 1945, issue of the A.O.R.
which one lacked one type of gene and the sec- ond lacked the other. When crossed together each contributed one type of gene to the hy- brid which was of normal colour. This hybrid was self-fertilised and produced a mixture of normals and albinos in the next generation.
Since most of our modern Orchid hybrids, whether Cymbidiums, Cattleyas, Cypripediums or other types are the result of crossing and recrossing through a number of generations, usually involving the introduction of hybrids from several different species, is it any wonder that as numerous genes which govern the flow- ering sort themselves out into all the possible combinations, a bewildering variety of colours, shapes and sizes is produced.
And when you flower a complex hybrid for the first time only to find it looks just like a Lowianum, blame the genes. It will have had the misfortune to collect an undue proportion of genes of Lowianum origin from both parents.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1944
“What is an Orchid?”—how it differs from other flowers was welcomed by readers as filling a definite want. We have received a number of congratulat-_ ory messages in regards to it. This letter from Major Davis of the U.S.A. Army is one of them. He asks for more information along similar lines: The desire for this knowledge is wide spread. There must be others among our readers who could answer the Major’s questions or supply an article dealing with the subjects raised. We would gladly publish it. i Briefly, Rev. H. M. R. Rupp replies as fol- lows: “There will always be differences of opinion as to the proper classification of Orchids intd Tribes, Sub-tribes, etc. In my ‘Orchids of N.S.W.’ I followed in the main, Pfitzer, as his”
} ' 5 ] | ] {
is the system adopted by the National Her- barium.” (See page 2 second paragraph.)
With regard to Major Davis’s questions:
(1) No such division is recognised, at least if botanical circles, as ‘New and Old World Or- chids.” One might ask what is meant by ‘New and “Old”? America used to be considered the “New World”; but would he include Australia, a much later discovery, under “Old World’? Anyhow, only confusion can result from talking of Old and New World Orchids. Different genera reach their greatest development in dif- ferent parts of the world: why, nobody knows. In widely separated countries such, e.g., as Am erica and Australia, there are not many genera in common; but a few, such as Habenaria and Spiranthes, are practically cosmopolitan.
(2) This is a question which I could not un- dertake to answer, for to do so would probably keep me busy for a week. Willis’s Dictionary of Flowering Plants and Ferns gives the main divisions; for details he would have to consult some standard work on classification.
(3) So far as I know, the answer is ‘‘No- where.”
(4) The high development of the Orchid is shown in the very facts I gave in my article: It has substituted for the complicated arrange- ment of the reproductive parts in other flowers the simple structure of the column. That this” has been evolved is shown by occasional lapses of Orchid flowers in the production of a style; or an additional anther, and the like,
I do not know where a “chart of geneti¢ tree” could be found; in fact I must confess do not quite know what it means.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Page 19
The Queensland Orchid Society Annual Report for the Year Ended 3ist Dec., 1945
Ladies and Gentlemen,
eens Committee has pleasure in presenting
Re Twelfth Annual Report and Statement of ccounts for the year ended 31st December,
1945.
Attendance of Committee: At the last An- a! General Meeting Messrs. L. F. Hayes, W. e Haenke and S. R. Brock were elected to
ommittee, but as these gentlemen were unable a eee gies they were subsequently replaced
y Messrs, T. C. White, J. Lewis and B Cribb, eu eo EMRE committee meetings were held during the year, attendance being as follows: peer C. A. Hilsden, 9; Hon. Secretary, T. C. arveyson, 12; Hon. Treasurer, E. J. Beard, 11; Com- mittee, C. O. Dunn 12, L. C. Home 10, J. Lewis 10, D.
Law 10, J. Gordon Smi ‘ > Je th 12, A. Swensen 10, C. T. White 2, B. S. F. Cribb 3. 4
_ Mr. C. T. White was elected to Committee in April but was only able to attend two meet- ae before making a trip to the Solomon Is- ands for the Government.
Membership: Sixteen (16) new members were enrolled during the year. Three (3) re- signations were received; three (3) members wets struck off the Register for non-payment of
ac and ile @ ) members were lost by death. ur membership now totals 22 i Atay p 0, comprised Life Members (b iption) at y subscription) 2, by honour) 3; Subscribing Members (Metropolitan) 125, (Country)
61; re Honorary Members 7; Members on Military Duties mpt from dues) 14; Affiliated Societies 8.
inance: The year began with a credit of eau and closed with a balance in Bank of ies Our assets increased from £195/12/45 DO an improvement for the year of ee 4, the highest the Society has ever had its twelve years’ existence. The generosity en on members in donating plants and other- % ae as enabled the Society to pay to Patriotic : ads £57/15/- and this sum brings up a grand otal of £296/4/10 distributed during the past SIX years.
Your Committee was able to obtain a fair quantity of potting fibre from the North and this was distributed at cost amongst our mem- bers who had placed orders for it. mst escuptions for 1946 are now due and “ ould be paid to the Honorary ‘Treasurer.
Oney Orders or cheques should be made pay- able to the Queensland Orchid Society and not to any individual. Will members kindly note
this and if sending cheques on country banks to add exchange.
Lectures: During the past year lectures or other items of interest have been given at the
monthly meeting as follows: -
R. J. H. Smith, Cinephoto Display of scenes in the Middle East.
C. A. Hilsden, “Points on Potting and Culture” and “Culture of Cypripediums.” :
J. Lewis, “The Selection of Orchids.”
J. Gordon Smith, “Dendrobiums and “Potting Van- das.”
C. O. Dunn, “A Review of ‘The Orchids of Ceylon.” and “Quiz Questions.”
Dr. D. A. Herbert, “What to Lecture About.”
T. C. Harveyson, “Potting Cattleyas.”
H. J. Campbell, “A Chat About Phalaenopses.””
To those members who so kindly contributed the above we offer our best thanks and apprecia- tion. ~
Obituary: With deep regret we place on
record the loss by death of Phil Levey who was killed in Germany whilst piloting a Halifax bomber. Also Jim Jeffries, of Rockhampton— a foundation member—passed away during the — year. . ‘ Monthly Displays: Despite transport short- age the show benches have been graced with quite a fair number of exhibits at every month- ly meeting during the year and what was lack- ing in quantity was more than adequately made up for in the quality of Orchids displayed.
Donation of Plants: At each meeting one or more memers kindly contributed plants to be raffled in aid of various patriotic bodies, and your Committee expresses sincere thanks to the following members for their generous donations:
Mr. Chas. Freeman, Mr. R. G. Ferguson, Mr. E. J. Beard, Mr. E. H. Cooper, Mr. A. Swensen, Mr. C. A. Hilsden, Mr. R. J. Langdon, Mr. W. N. Jackson, Miss K. Mcllrath, Mr. T. Harris, Mr. C. O. Dunn, Mr. W. McK. Robertson, Mr. S. H. Phillips, Mr. J. Lewis, Mr. L. C. Home, Mr. W. L. Haenke, Mr. J. Bearup, Mr. J Smolinski, Mr. J. Waltisbuhl, Mr. T. C. Harveyson, Mr. J. McGregor Wills, Mr. W. F. Adamson, Mr. J. Gordon Smith.
Library: The collection of books held in the Brisbane Public Library has been augmented by a copy of “The Orchids of Ceylon” which is a very fine work, The Society’s property is in excellent condition and members are reminded that the volumes are available for study during library hours.
The Australian Orchid Review: Three issues of this journal were published in 1945, and at the time of printing this report we are
Page 20
still awaiting the December issue which has doubtless been held up owing to industrial
troubles in Sydney. The Review is now the of--
ficial journal of The Victorian Orchid Club in addition to The Orchid Society of N.S.W., The Newcastle Orchid Circle and The Queensland Orchid Society.
During the year Mr. L. C. Home was appoint- ed Associate Editor for Queensland, and it is requested that all M.S.S., photographs, and items of interest be sent to him at 27 Taylor Street, Buranda, Brisbane.
Conclusion: During almost six years of war, now so happily over, our Orchid collections have all suffered sadly. Indeed we are fortun- ate that they have even survived for most of us have, of necessity, been unable to give the required time to repotting and care that they require.
However, we all look forward to a better and brighter future, and now that import re- strictions have been relaxed, it is to be hoped that the time will soon come when plants from overseas will be made available.
For and on behalf of the Committee, (Sgd.) C. A. HILSDEN, President. (Sgd.) T. C. HARVEYSON, Hon. Sec.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
@ We want pictures — more and more of them. Write the grower’s name and address on the back before sending them along. Also a short description of the flower, plant and cul- ture would be helpful.
® Orchids for Mr. McDade
An American flew to London, travelled 60 miles by car to Ashford (Kent), and bought £9,375 worth of orchids.
The buyer, Mr. Clint McDade, president of the Southland News Company, Chattanooga (Tennessee), said it would cost him another £12,500 to transport the orchids to America.
The orchids belonged to the world-famous Armstrong and Brown collection, owned by Miss C. Armstrong, of Ashford.
McDade bought 20,000 orchid plants priced from 2/6 to £65 each.
McDade who already owns nearly £100,000 worth of orchids, said “Crating and transport- ing the new orchids to America will take two years.
“Jt will be three years before some of the plants produce blooms, as they will be weak- ened by the journey and re-potting.”—Daily Telegraph, Sydney.
A Talk on the Genus Cypripedium
C. A. HILSDEN, Brisbane, @.
@ As an appreciation of the paper delivered by Dr. Herbert to the Society on July 1t3h last, I will attempt to extend my previous talk by explaining in fuller detail a few aspects of the management of these beautiful plants.
To understand more fully the treatment they require, one must be conversant with their cycle of growth. I will therefore deal with a plant, say of two growths, that after division, has been potted up and purchased for addition to our collection.
Bearing in mind that the original specimen from which our new plant was severed, had recently flowered and was more or less dormant, our newly acquired plant only requires to be kept moderately damp until it becomes estab- lished in the fresh compost and settles down to the new surroundings. These operations for growers in Southern Queensland would be ap- proximately September, thus commencing the season of the cycle of growth.
After a few weeks in a congenial atmosphere where the floors and benches are kept moist, as the summer season is commencing, one notices a small new growth appearing from the side pushing its head up above the compost, having
grown from an eye on the stem of the old growth. We recognise that our plant has set- tled down, commenced to grow and is making new roots.
As the season is now getting warmer, we give our plants more water and commence overhead spraying, watching that water is not allowed
to remain in the heads of the young growths, ~
that at this stage, are just beginning to unfold their tiny leaves. During the following months of December, January, February, March, we keep our plants well shaded from the burning and drying rays of the sun, give them plenty of water and overhead spraying, and keep the atmosphere of the house as moist as possible. At the same time it is advisable to spray the plants monthly with an insecticide preventive against thrip, etc., as these insects thrive under warm conditions.
Probably by the end of March our plant has rewarded us with two nice healthy, well leaved growths, superior in size and colour to the orig- inal growths. Having by now practically fin- ished their growth, our thoughts are centred as to whether we are to be rewarded by seeing a tiny sheath appear from the centre of the new
ee ae ee
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
g8towth. As our plant has produced two fine healthy growths, it is only natural to expect that one or two flowers will appear.
As soon as the tiny sheath appears, we must be very careful that after watering or spraying, no water is allowed to remain in the head of the growth, as there is a danger that the em-
tyo flower bud will rot and we will lose our AER of many months’ labour and anticipa- ton. At this stage a weekly dip into a bucket 2 weak manure solution will enhance the size 3 the flower. As the flowers last for a period
up to twelve weeks, we are now in the sows cs June-July. Of course there are spe- Beepe a . Soipsnahnins that flower at differ- 2 & jodsic the year, but the main principles of this talk apply to these species coming with- in the cycle of growth. ai ane mae its flowering period, our plant Hae ae a short rest. During this period, cee ate a July to September, we have con- ae ae teduced the watering and tefrained ie Fae overhead during the winter sea- cine t i general rule is to repot after flow- ae Me aye arrived at the time when our eat =i taken from the original specimen, 7 Jave now two fine healthy plants of
at particular hybrid or specie.
io aes (after flowering) if we aes Bens ‘ any of our plants, it is advis-
aed ae sharp clean knifé and cut through aon EE close to a late flowered eae soe if the forward growth has one or Se a growths behind it, sever between deate oit Fa Some growers prefer to leave the SreTeneets € next season after severing be- Bette ne, As Cyps. do not like their roots mailings ie e Balai method js preferable to eee ane apart for division. Thus we Thee ae repotting period in October, aR SAN een ae potted up sep- cunien Ae nearly start in the fresh Seite € therefore have completed the er aha which summed up briefly
Gee period—October to March— Main flowerin Winter, 1Vision and repottin ber—Early Spring. ie ea mentioned there are early and Varieties of feel Toe i See ue ‘e ateel AGyeshet sat AB: and Callosum’ of the Sansa g pees ut the cycle of treat-
Seon olow on the lines outlined above,
€ time of repotting we find old growths
& period—April to August—
g—August to Septem-
Page 21
that leave the plant and have practically no live roots, by repotting in moist sphagnum moss or medium sand and kept moist, they will invari- ably produce a new growth.
A few words on the selection of a few de- sirable species and hybrids may be helpful to members who are contemplating adding to their collections. Unfortunately the world war has seriously affected the collection of species and practically entirely suspended the professional activities of hybridisers. It has been impossible to procure plants from overseas and all Aus- tralian stocks are either exhausted or are not on the market. But with the cessation of hos- tilities, supplies of new hybrids as well as spe- cies should be forthcoming in the near future. Of the species I would recommend that, when available, the following varieties are well worthy of culture and easy to grow:
Insigne varieties—Harefield Hall, Sanderae and Royalty, Callosum, Charlesworthii, Cur- tesii, Lawrencianum, Hirsutissimum and Villo- sum.
The position regarding hybrids offers a very wide choice, as there are hundreds of crosses already established and in the near future many new hybrids will be available from overseas, but of those existing a selection may be made - from:
Harrisianum Superbum, Cappa Magna, Invin- cible, J. M. Black, Gertrude West, Maudiae Magnificum, Sultan, Lady Dillon, Chieftain Roxana, Atlantis, Leeanum, Lloyd George, F. M. Ogilvie and many others.
In concluding this short paper, my observa-
tions lead me to believe that many more of our
orchid growers are taking a keener interest in this beautiful genus and I look forward with anticipation to seeing greater numbers on our show benches, which will add credit to the fine reputation of the Queensland Orchid Society.
Agents for the ‘Australian Orchid Review” in Great Britain Messrs. B. F. Stevens & Brown Limited, New Ruskin House, 28-30 Little Russell Street, LONDON, W.C.1, are carrying stocks of current and back numbers of the' “Australian Orchid Review.” Readers in Great Britain should communicate with them regarding their supplies.
Page 22
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
New Year’s Day in Bed
R. BRUCK HOGG, Brunswick. Vie.
@ This is written on New Year’s Day, a day on which, unfortunately, I cannot join in the frolics, being confined to my bed, and having little to entertain me, I have reverted to my favourite hobby — Orchids—and that friend which has always provided me with a mental diversion when most needed—my pencil.
The New Year is with us, the world is again at peace, and from now on we cannot be accused of disloyalty in devoting a little of our men- tal energy and money in developing our hobby. The war has done a great amount of good to this country in developing industry and fitting it to carry an infinitely larger population. Strangely, it has also brought Orchids more before our people than ever before. What a strange para- dox that the most beautiful of all flowers should receive. most homage at a time when our country was fighting for its existence. Through- out Australia I can safely estimate that during the war the number of people growing Orchids has doubled, but I’d be much nearer the mark if I said quadrupled. Owing to my contribu- .tions to the Review I receive letters from all over Australia, mostly seeking advice, some seeking help, and the inevitable beggar trying to get something for nothing, but this corres- pondence does illustrate the growing interest in Orchids.
This growth in Orchid culture increases the responsibilities of the various societies, and if it is to continue, the executive officers of those societes must place the cult first and them- selves last. Allowing members to openly barter for plants at society meetings is the surest way to start a society on the down grade. Our societies should subscribe to every journal of value throughout the world and purchase every book published, with the object of educating their members in Orchids, their value and their cultivation. There should be no secrets, and like the medical profession, through its journal, we should use the Australian Orchid Review to place before readers all possible information on Orchids and their cultivation.
_ The little that I know has been gleaned by
an inquistive mind and tongue, but it must also be a tactful one. I have seen a large number of collections in Melbourne and Sydney, and do‘ not hesitate to suggest that the fingers of one hand would count the really well-grown collections in Melbourne, and perhaps of two hands in Sydney.
Certainly, many other growers exhibit out- standing plants, but does the whole of their | collection show the same degree of health and vigor? I mention the foregoing to advise my readers if they adopt the “inquisitive mind and tongue” to cultivate those who over the years have been outstandingly successful, not n win- ning exhibitions at a show, but at all times pos- sessing a collection of varying genera which impressed by its health and vigor.
I understand that before this goes to press the Department of Trade and Customs is going to review all prohibited imports, including Or- chids, and have reason to believe that Orchids will be allowed to be imported from sterling countries. If this is the case, I would warn my readers not to join in a headlong rush to get early supplies. Be patient, and step in when the rush is over and you will probably buy better Orchids at a much lower price.
If you aspire a collection in which quality is the chief objective, I would suggest buying divisions of high-priced flowered plants rather than unflowered seedlings, for even with the famous Westonbirt you will cull four out of five seedlings. Multiply the landed cost of those unflowered seedlings by five and add a few pounds for the labour of caring for them until they flower, and you will find that you have a sufficient sum to buy a really good named variety of flowering size. There are plenty of ~ the cull variety in Australia now, and what we want is plants of the best F.C.C. and A.M. var- ieties flowered in England. Possession of one such plant should enable you to have half a dozen similar ones in a couple of years by local exchange.
To-day there is a mild boom in Orchids. That boom is the greatest danger to the cult, and I appeal to all to repress it rather than extend it. The bubble of every boom bursts as a result of the exuberance of those who create and sus- tain it. Orchids can maintain prices approxi- mating those of to-day unless competition sends prices far higher. This boom is much more pronounced in Sydney than in Melbourne, and considerable harm to the cult will result if the “powers that be” do not keep firm control and advise against inflated prices.
The coming season looks like being an excel- lent one in Melbourne. Many Cymbidium Hy- brids are already showing flower spikes and the Slippers and Cattleyas are much more forward
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946 Page 23
than last year. This augers well for our Show next September for which we have taken the large Melbourne Town Hall. Large numbers of plants acquired during the recent years of boom will flower, and those who have indulged will be able to sedately observe their purchases and appraise them in comparison to the head- long rush of recent years when anything with the name of Westonbirt in its pedigree brought arge prices or a good exchange.
So much for wanderings of a bored mind on New Year’s Day.
®Propagation—During April or May you will do no harm by severing Cymbidium and Cypri- pedium plants at the point where you propose to divide them next Spring. This will encourage the new growth at the point of severance to amnear at the same time as the new growth from the forward lead and will keep your plant bal- anced, and in the event of division it will give you a chance of flowering the back section of the division the following year. However, do not under any Circumstances sever Cattleyas at this time. Both Cattleyas and Dendrobiums should be severed in August or September when
the eyes which are to make the new growth start to swell.
“4 CYPRIPEDIUM WENDOVER Var. “V. E. Day.” A.M. 1945. O.S. of N.S.W.
{nan DOTTIE inn ‘eetessvucencuvantarcnavenencscanaascceescenaceacgnnavoanaasseeaaennnneesseeaanen gata sentence aaegagneeceagecaeeecuinac a vaseccaeeeceaateecaeaniaiceenieaearitearieeenniatnecianan ninco ararenicenc nani
Announcing the Early Publication of
A Cultural Table of Orechidaceous Plants
by J. MURRAY COX
GMT
As only a limited number of copies will be printed, subscribers should book their orders now.
suena eran renrirennsreanareserirenient
To
Published by
THE SHEPHERD PRESS YURONG STREET, SYDNEY N.S.W., AUSTRALIA
OT
See Tt m CTT HUNAN CO TTT
Page 24
SHOWY INDIAN ORCHIDS
Lowest Retail and Wholesale Lists on Orchids and Bulbs on request.
POST FREE OFFERS
25 Different Showy Orchids 0... 50/- 50 Cae A co vgn 100/- 12 Selected Dendrobiums oi. 30/- 12 7 Cymbidiums ~ 40/- Cypripedium Fairieanum, per 100 ..... £13/10/- Vanda Teres, per 100 veers £5/10/- Lilium Wallichianum, per 100... £5/10/-
GLADIOLUS—best Australian. Giant Flowering Mixed, first-sized corms, per 100, £2; per 1000, £15. Cormlpts, £5 per 10,000. Picardy, per 1000 £20. Postage extra.
THE GARDEN SERVICE
8} Mile, KALIMPONG, Dist.: DARJEELING (INDIA)
BOOKS
ORCHID CULTURE IN CEYLON. Edited by Soysa, 1943, coloured plates, etc. This delightful book is of interest to Orchid Growers, dealing with hybridization, diseases and pests, fragrance, etc. Orchids dealt with can be grown in Victoria and New South Wales, £2/15/-
VICTORIAN ORCHIDS (Dickens), 2/6, post, 2d. THE ORCHIDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES (Rupp), 9/-, post 4d., soft cover edition, 6/-. AN INTRO-
DUCTION TO THE STUDY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ORCHIDS (Rogers), 1/6, post, 3d.
Stocks of second-hand works on Orchids, Natural History, Early Aust., Art, Collecting, etc. Catalogue on application. Also available, special list of new Gardening Books
N. H. SEWARD PTY. LTD. 457¢ BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE, C.1.
Notice to Advertisers
All enquiries as to Advertising space should be addressed to the publishers:
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW
SHEPHERD & NEWMAN PTY. LTD. YURONG STREET, SYDNEY
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
Indian Orchids
Our best selection, showy flowering Indian Orchids, having 5 or 6 shoots, £12/10/-. Cut flower purposes, large flowering, our best selection, £19. Lillium, 6 varieties, £8. Amaryllis, giant, 6 varieties, £9. Lilies, 4 var- ieties, £6. Curcuma, pink, £4. Caladiums, 25 varieties, £6 per hundred. Fern spores, 25 named varieties, 2/- per packet. Alpine seeds, including Rhododendrons, 25 named varieties, best collection, 5/- per ounce, postage paid. Bulbs and Orchids, orders for less than 100 plants and Bulbs, and Seeds less than ounce will be accepted. Cash please. Pure Musk Dust, £14 per oz. Postage paid by Air Mail.
R. K. KASAJU & SONS
Nurserymen and Collector
P.O. PAKYONG, SIKKIM, INDIA.
WANTED CYMBIDIUM BACK BULBS
in variety, with strong dormant eyes, or made-up leaved bulbs—I0 or 100. List names and color with price.
ALSO
BOOKS ON ORCHIDS Give Author, Title, Date, Condition, Price
GREENOAKS
2545W. 5th St., Los Angeles 5, Calif.
BOOKS ON ORCHIDS
Cacti and other Succulent plants, new and used. Also other Botanical books.
Send for catalog. Payments handled
locally.
“"BOOK-MARK"
825 Elyria Drive, Los Angeles, 31, Calif., U.S.A.
a ee ee ee ee ee ee ee
i
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
The Orchid Society of N.S.W.
Meets every month on the last Thursday in Royal Empire Society Hall, 3rd Floor, 17 Bligh Street, Sydney, at 8 p.m. Visitors welcomed.
Patron: President: Hon. Secretary:
His Honour E. A. HAMILTON T. H. JAMES JUDGE H. F. MARKELL TébtlerculeseSte Valley Road
“Kooyong,” Hastings Road HAZELBROOK, N.S.W.
WARRAVWEE, N.S.W. CHATSWOOD, N.S.W. Phone, Lawson 71 Hon. Treasurer: Hon. Asst. Treasurer: Hon. Editor: JOHN BISSET W. FAHEY W. WORTH
48 Wareemba Street, 1 Woolcott Street 4 Ward Street
ABBOTSFORD, N.S.W. WAVERTON, N.S.W. WILLOUGHBY, N.S.W. Phone WA1124 *Phone XB3795 Phone: JA1533
The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow:
THURSDAY, MARCH 28th : THURSDAY, APRIL 25th THURSDAY, MAY 30th
The Queensland Orchid Society
Patron: :
His Excellency, Col. the Rt. HON. SIR LESLIE ORME WILSON, P.C., G.C.S.I., G.C.M.G., G.C.LE,, D.S.O,
President: Hon. Secretary: Hon. Treasurer: S A. aa a T. C. HARVEYSON E. J. BEARD CUANTTE TORENT G.P.O. Box 2002 X 381 Queen St. °
BRISBANE BRISBANE BRISBANE
The dates of the next meetings of the Society are as follow:— FRIDAY, MARCH 8th FRIDAY, APRIL 12th FRIDAY, MAY 10th
Meeting Place: Miniature Rifle Range Building, Boundary Street, Brisbane. Meetings held on the Second Friday of each month. Visitors are welcome.
The Victorian Orehid Club
Meets on the third Monday in each month (January excepted), in the Aus- tralian Church Hall, 15 Russell St., Melbourne, at 8 p.m. Prospective _members welcome.
The dates of the next meetings of the Club are as follow: MONDAY, MARCH 18th MONDAY, APRIL 15th MONDAY, MAY 20th
President:
Vice-President: Hon. Secretary: R. VICK B. R. HODGINS _ °G, E. FLOYD 32 Northcote Avee., 547 Moreland Road, 25 Grandview Road CANTERBURY, E,7, ESSENDON, W.5. BRIGHTON, 5.5. Phone WF2365 *Phone FUS270 *Phone, X4996
Hon. Treasurer: A. C. DREDGE, 169 Cochrane Street, Elsternwick, S.4.
Wholly set up, printed and published in Australia by Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney Worth, Hon. Editor.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, MARCH, 1946
The Significance of Awarded and Named Varieties of Orchids
The mere fact that someone has put a second name on an Orchid may or may not mean anything. It all depends on when the variety was named, why it was named and who named it. Awarded varieties may be valuable or worthless, depending on the date of the award and the reputation of the organization responsible for making the award.
Without making any representations whatsoever as to their value, we are listing below some famous named and awarded varieties in the Rivermont collection. Additional lists will appear in forthcoming issues. At present we have no duplicates of these plants for sale.
We have many plants at Rivermont that have not been exhibited, and have not been given a second name which excel all or nearly all of the awarded and named varieties listed.
CATTLEYAS AND ALLIED GENERA C. Nina, var. Rivermont; C. Fulvescens, Westonbirt var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Innocence, var. Snowdrift; C. Trianae, var. Grand Monarch; C. Snowmaiden, var. Everest; C. Loddigesii alba, Stanley's var., F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Dinah, A.M., R.H.S.; C. Solario, var. Empress; C. Edithae, var. White Empress, F.C.C., R.H.S.; C. Lady Veitch, var. Rivermont; C. Lorna, var. magnifica; Bc. Mrs. R. Paterson, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Ble. Capella, var. aurensis; Blc. Daffora, var. Ceres; Ble. Aprica, var. Moonbeam; Lc. Wiloden, var. perfecta; Le. St. Gothard, A.M.; Ble. Xanthea, var. Aureo-grandis; Lc. Sunburn, var. Soleil d'Or; Blc. Nigeria, A.M., R.H.S.; Le. Babylon, var. Crimson Flame; Lc. Guinevere, var. grandiflora; Lc. Orange Beauty, var. Apollo; Le. Snowdrift, var. Empress, A.M., R.H.S.; Blc. Beatrice, var. Regina; Blc. Orange Glory, var. Rosalind; Slc.
Cleopatra, A.M., R.H.S. CYMBIDIUMS
Cym. Flamingo, var. nobilior, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Carmen, var. Rose Queen; Cym. Jungfrau, var. Enchantress; Cym. Alexanderi, var. album, F.C.C., R.H.S.; Cym. Delvsia, var. Red. Queen; Cym. Goosander, var. exquisitum, A.M., M.O.S.; Cym. Gottianum, Westonbirt, var., A.M., R.H.S.; Cym. Jason, var. Golden Beauty.
CYPRIPEDIUMS ;
Cyp. Golden Gleam, var. Orebus; Cyp. Balaclava, var. Grand Vizier; Cyp. Charmaine, Weston- birt var., A.M., R.H.S.; Cyp. Leonora, var. Amaranth, A.M., R.H.S.; Cyp. Peridot, var. Eau d'Or; Cyp. Eventide, var. Marvel.
This year we shall advertise the finest selection of seedlings and adult plants that we have yet been able to offer our customers. Inquiries should reach us any time after March I.
We understand that regulations will not permit us to ship plants to Australia at this time. This advertisement, which is a duplicate of advertisements appearing in the American Orchid Society Bulletin and other Orchid publications, is reproduced here just to remind our Australian Orchid growing friends that we are still doing business and growing seedlings.
CLINT McDADE AND SONS RIVERMONT ORCHIDS
BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE, U.S.A. CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE* JOHN LINES
*Now serving in the Armed Forces
nia
YY
W
N
W
\
WWW
Ys
Wy, “yy, .
VE.
ie tdi 1
“errryppyypy ppt ceca
iy, duit
UY
yy Uppy
JUNE ISSUE, 1946
Published Quarterly
Vol. Il. No. 2
THE OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE ORCHID SOCIETY Hay SOUTH WALES (INCORPORATING THE NEWCASTLE CIRCLE), THE QUEENSLAND ORCHID SOCIETY AND THE VICTORIAN ORCHID CLUB,
Page ii
SYDNEY, N.S.W. -
AUSTRALIAN, ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
ORCHIDS
Quantity - Quality - Variety
CC. i. DEANE
Girrahween Nurseries 190 WOLLONGONG RD... ARNCLIFFE
TEL. LX 1106
In Advertising i eeagl
the element of time is one to be reckoned with—as it has important underlying effects, particularly on the volume of future business.
Efficient process engraving is an effective ally when up against "'time.'' Turning to the fine art studios at 89 William Street, you are sure of RESULTS not EXCUSES in the
hour of urgency.
A free enterprise, not process engraving as a sideline, a progressive organisation noted for the consistent quality of its work—maintained by.....
PHOTO-ENGRAVING ART COMPANY PROPRIETARY LIMITED
8 9 WV ie lt Lees Us LE Ame M S oy
Boi I oy S 7 & WW tf VW
On Time and in Step with Advertising
a ne ee NU ne Sn
eee
——
Special Announcement to Orchid Enthusiasts
eke much pleasure in announcing the publication of THE CHARM OF GROWING ORCHIDS, y PLA. Gilbert. This is the first book on exotic orchids to be published in Australia, and com- prises 232 pages of general information, cultural notes, etc., and photographs.
Price: 21/-. Postage 1/- extra. Sole Publisher and Distributor:
: St., Abbotsford —WA 1124 JOHN BISSET Nursery: 48 Wareemba St., A Mount ai pis
Private: 8 Brisbane Avenue, (Also at City Markets every Friday)
USTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW
ere JUNE, 1946 No. 2
The author of each article is responsible for the facts and opinions expressed therein.
CONTENTS
*
Page
Adelaide AS. Dee tht He. rie AE ciequsaoio ie. 27 ' Amateur Orchid Cultivation in U.S.A, 9 see ceee ce vate te 44 AnmA ppeal ain ae ioe Caml nae esate ae cee eee RE 49 GattleyastesMoremLleaCatornmen ake ee mesh iy eet eens me Ce gis ame 48 Gyn bids ria Syd Te yee aetna ore eg) serie 9 edore 34 Cymbidiums, Why do They not Flower Freely? 9 ut Maa ue 45 CY pripediims me imeeare enh eee sede Toot lee ee Rly ca cise eke im ile totam eae ah 30 Dipodium punctatum SU Te TE ete ee anes 32 Hybridization, The Principles of, 9 © wm. me vm 42 Notesmtorm Novices gil mm anngiae nt Be va, ase ee ree as 36 Quiz COrnetaesi ett: cement abar ts mots. Rags mt ee BE coe 28 Victorian Cultural Notes 999 ne eee ee Kite oo nets 29 WWardian§ Gase) leselt Giese de eh ayy th a = hes, ee ‘ae 47 Wihatetom Lecture vA boutay nt eye mews tnt tad otal cml eee ee oer ty i Peo 31
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS
Calanthe, yeratrifolia 9 ww ek Se ate 37 Cattleya, amethystoglossa 99 on ns es fhe ee wet Gas 39 Crgemtogstinny, agit ae bal de Oa ete ak OO) a tenis. 4 1 Dipodium; punctatum ee tes eenitints on batt ei) 33 EpidendrumypGiliare” @ OOM GRAV Ort. Wah et 31 Odontoglossuriseerandes: ae miminnet: lnm) hs ley aeons 38
Subscrj
ae Rates: Australia and New Zealand, 6/- per annum; Overseas, 6/- sterling per
- Post free. Payable to Shepherd & Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, Sydney. Leen Oe Sk 44 44
CARE YOUR orcHIDS with PESTOXOL
" (LIQUID) eeu th specially suited for the treatment of Orchids and has been proven by actual
"PEST I sh-house and green-house.
ae destroys Scale, Thrips, Red Spider, Green and Black Fly, Mealy Bug, Caterpillar,
atts ee and is perfectly safe in use not only on Orchids, but on Ferns and tender green- s.
10o0z. Bottles ......... 2/6 each. 4 gallon Jars ........ 16/6 each All Orchid Dealers and Seedsmen
F. H. FAULDING & CO. LTD. seorsin' pant vont
and Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Brisbane, and London (Eng.)
Page 26 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 —
Another Forward Step
In July, 1945, we purchased the entire stock of the world-famous Armstrong & Brown Orchid collection of Tunbridge Wells, England, known as Orchidhurst.
Our Mr. Clint McDade has just returned from England where he inspected the - stock and made final arrangements to bring the plants to the States.
We are delighted to find that pieces of most of the finest stud plants and exhibition varieties still remain in the collection. During the past year we have gone to great lengths to locate and buy from the present owners, pieces of a few choice Orchids formerly in the collection, but no longer to be found at Tunbridge Wells. It is a source of great pride to us to be able to carry on with this magnificent collection practically intact. Fine things are to be found in all sections, including Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, Odontoglossums and Cypripediums. The Cymbidium section is probably the most outstanding. Exceptionally good strains of Cymbidium Dorchester, Mopsa, Bodmin Moore, and Clara Armstrong were originated at Orchidhurst. When all of these choice varieties have been _ added to our Cymbidium section here at Rivermont, we sincerely believe that : this section will then be second to no other commercial Cymbidium collection in the world.
At Rivermont we have always put special emphasis on good Cattleyas. We are glad to add a few fine things from Orchidhurst to keep our Cattleya sec- tion well up among the front rank growers of these glorious flowers.
lf one may judge from the Cypripediums Mr. McDade found in bloom at Orchidhurst, these will add greatly to our Cypripeddium line. Our Cypri- pedium collection is small at present, but we can say that most of the plants have been selected as one would select precious jewels.
It may be impossible for us to get the Orchidhurst plants over in time to offer any of them for sale this year. Even so, we shall offer a number of seedlings _| and adult plants from our stock here at Rivermont in order to make room for the plants coming from Orchidhurst. For the most part, offerings will be made of Cattleyas and allied genera. Inquiries invited now.
You are invited to become a member of the American Orchid Society—mem- bership dues $5.00 for the year inclusive twelve issue of the Bulletin, which is an excellent magazine devoted to Orchids. Also, we suggest you join the American Horticultural Society—membership $3.00 a year. We shall be glad to recommend you for membership in both these societies.
CLINT McDADE AND SONS
RIVERMONT ORCHIDS
BOX 831 CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE, U.S.A. CLINT McDADE EVEREST McDADE NEIL McDADE* JOHN LINES
*Now serving in the Armed Forces
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
‘Page 27
Adelaide
. ee the Editor of the A.O.R. requested me re fe readers of this journal something about
elaide, and how Orchids are grown here, I readily agreed. : eeseiaids situated on the Torrens has been ae ed as “The Garden City” and we believe this aptly “described our city.
© the South, we have the
Rane Mount. Lofty
ane see these are situated about five miles Gelaea es Be proper. To the west we have the tein icant, and our seaside resorts with ae eee y beaches only 7 miles from the aa als to the North we have the vast Newnes agricultural lands extending to the mete Lcancamite of this Continent, from nti € get our hot summer winds and €times dust storms. ape aueat high humidity the Eastern States eae etiing the summer months the cli- ace i rok is dry. This is due to the fact ‘ie ere the sub-tropical atmospheric condi- oa ch ae. to N.S.W. and Queensland, we mecca ry little rain during the summer ee We ut our share is apportioned to us dur- er and Spring.
say pie esidents on hot Summer days will . As. se! It’s hot!” But the unpleasant heat oe seer sO soon as a cool change from the een oe ne: Generally our climate here is coer racing, conducive to gardening pa hee Scneaallyp hence practically every a is er re or small, has its flowers in hanes aaeor ing to the house holders’ pre- cee Me o think that Adelaide’s displays aire € outstanding, and dahlias, bulbous » Shrubs, trees, etc., do particularly well
i sent is also blessed with wide clean streets
by ii for an area of one mile wide
Hace ands which are used as playing fields
ies ees of sports. These parks act as
wes r the city and contribute to the health ity dwellers and workers.
A dela Se fertestrial orchids are’ found in the sehr Rta ‘such as’ Green Hoods, etc., the MiStentai Insignificant, and of interest from acer faaene on only. Epiphytal Orchids some quite Aen this State. However, we have Sehr ae and extensive collections enthusiasts ‘al ids and hybrids among our ihe cee the numbers are increasing. SEINE Gan Sea these enthusiasts I would in- (our Club ate Premier—Hon. Tom Playford patron), and his mother, who both
have their homes at Norton’s Summit in the hills, about twenty minutes’ run by car from the city, and both of these enthusiasts are obtaining marked success in growing Cymbid- iums. |
Leaving the city in the evening of a hot summer day to visit the homes of these enthu- siasts one realises so soon as one reaches the hills why they can beat the suburban growers— the air has that soft coolness that caresses the face and lifts tired nerves. No wonder Cymbid- iums grow and bloom to delight the patient enthusiast residing in our hills.
Our one disability in growing Orchids is water. In normal seasons we have abundance of water from storage basins mostly situated in the hills, but it is saline, hence hard and quite unsuited for Orchids which require slightly acid or neutral water, so we resort to collection of rain water. Visitors from overseas remark and wonder why practically every house and cottage has at least one rain water tank, but this storage is not for watering precious Orchids—it is treasured for the laundry purposes.
Our reservoir water however, is very satisfac- tory for damping down and for outside gardens and vegetable growing.
Until quite recently, we considered all our potting compostes must be imported from New South Wales and Queensland, but now we real- ize the value of spent tan bark and have learned how to use it. We can relax and offer thanks to our Creator for providing us with abundant Wattle trees that grow throughout our hills districts.
Most of the growers of Cymbidiums and Cyp- ripediums are now adopting the tan bark com- postes with marked success and improvement in growth of these genera.
Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums and some of the other genera are grown under brush house con- ditions throughout the Summer and Autumn, but must be placed under glass during Winter, both because of the cold and wet conditions with heavy frosts. The Adelaide climatic conditions cover temperatures ranging from as high as 110 to 115° F. in the shade in Summer, down to 30 to 32° F. in mid-Winter.
Several years ago we had an exceptionally hot spell and the mercury soared to 118° F. in the shade, during the morning heat someone cracked an egg on a city pavement where it fried. All our summers are not so hot and the heat comes
Page 28
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
PERSONNEL
Hon. Editor:
W. WORTH 4 Ward St. Willoughby, N.S.W.
Phone: JA 1533 —
Victoria: R. BRUCE HOGG
Dawson St. Brunswick N.10
James Miller & Co. Pty. Ltd.
ASSOCIATES: Queensland: South Australia: L. C. HOME R. J. LANGDON 26 Taylor St. 8 Regent Street Buranda S.2 Millswood Brisbane South Australia
Orchid Societies in the States not represented above are invited to nominate a representative.
The Quiz Corner Conducted by Dr. O. R. KIDD
[Readers are invited to send along their ques- tions on anything pertaining to Orchids and their culture. Answers given are applicable to Sydney, N.S.W.—Eprror. ]
Question.—How can I grow and flower Zygopetalum Mackayii and Odontoglossum Grande?
Answer.—Zygopetalum Mackayii: Starting from a back bulb, treat it exactly as you would a cymbidium back bulb for it will strike freely NNN in waves of a few days duration to be broken by cool Westerlies.
In July, 1939, a few enthusiasts met and de- cided to form an Orchid Society. The Orchid Club of South Australia was eventually created, but before we could become firmly established the war came upon us, and those who did not join the Armed Forces, linked up: with the civil defence services, etc., and even despite the many disabilities and long hours of work our mem- bers that remained continued to devote what- ever time they could spare in tending their plants. Club meetings eventually were reduced to bi-monthly meetings held in the office of our club secretary. The care and inspection of our plants at night during the extreme “black-out” was difficult and unsatisfactory, slugs and other pests then held sway, but we survived these troublous times, and when artificial lighting was restored those pests got their deserts.
We now have our club members back with us, and are holding regular monthly meetings when information relating to every Orchid genera is gladly given to help our less experi- enced growers, and those who wish to grow a few Orchid plants.
On behalf of my Orchid Club members I extend a hearty welcome to any Interstate Orchid enthusiasts, who may be visiting Adelaide, to attend our meetings.
FRANK H. De ROSE, President, The Orchid Club of South Australia.
under the same conditions, or more freely still if given a little heat, say in the glass house of in a hot box. The latter is a box filled with compost which is heated to a constant tempera- ture, (thermostacially controlled) by an electri¢ wire the resistance of which is such that the wire becomes warm and heats the soil or com- post. The bulb may easily grow from the very apex and if this be so, immediately roots are noticed, half bury it on its side in a cymbidium compost of old tan bark, new tan bark, leaf mould, each one part, and coarse, sand and fine charcoal each one part. Use a S-inch pot well crocked. Keep moist but not wet and as soon as the roots are into the compost a few inches
_ remove it to a cool but airy place in the bush
house, When well established place amongst your cymbidiums. Keep constantly damp in Summef and it will make a small bulb by Easter. In August, repot, using a larger pot say 7 inches using the same compost plus one part of old cow manure and grow with cymbidiums and give the same treatment except that it must be grown in an airy spot for the new shoots hold the water very easily and rots out the centre: The following Easter or a little later it should flower—the flower spike coming up from the base of the new shoot on one or both sides. After flowering the shoot grows slowly in the Winter and rapidly with the Spring warm weather to bulb up in late Summer and throw its new shoot and flower spike again about late April. Two points to watch:—
(1) The new shoot easily rots in the centre,
so grow in the open air.
(2) It has a large root system and is a gross
-feeder so richen the mixture and increase the size of the pot but be sure that drainage is perfect.
The flowers are purple, pale mauve, striped. The sizes varies with culture. Species strongly perfumed. Usually 5 to 7 flowers on an erect spike and last 2 to 3 weeks.
| | | | | \ |
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Page 29
Victorian Cultural Notes June, July, August R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick. Vic.
@ VW; 7 :
Hoan 1s again upon us, and the need for chill are in watering and protection against on Desai itself. On the contrary, we are seas by our Cypripediums being in opin ie by Our interest in the rapidly devel- i a hes spikes of the Cymbidiums, while Gat art of the period our Dendrobiums and a ae ut have reached maturity with their Pl ceri and will require to be dried off near he itms.—These should be hung up at tate 8lass and be almost completely deprived ane eb this Practice being continued until Gaia’ i » Gale in the late winter or early Kc fsa Se are watered too early, instead pethap ae ran will get early growths and
atl ;
eon Mearns great bulk of your Cattleyas chop treated similarly to Dendrobiums, with atta ee perhaps of those which have not ‘ ae of the new growth. Those few could brightly an ees when the sun is shining enough tise : when you are confident there is
ut they cfr apenas the bulk of the water,
extremely cold weather. However, since you will be using a lot of stove heat the atmosphere will be dry, and compensating moisture should be spilt on all bright sunny days to make good the moisture evaporated by the artificial heat. Toward the end of this period I would suggest that you carefully examine each of your Cattle- yas and sever your plants at about every four bulbs, but in cutting the rhyzome with a knife, be sure that the “eye” immediately, behind the cut is still alive. This is the best time to do that, for if the severing is done a sufficient time before the “eyes” start to swell, the “eye” from the back cut should swell in company with that on the forward lead, and you would have more chance of getting flowers from the severed back lead. With some Cattleyas, how- ever, you will find that by habit, nature makes them break into several leads and the use of the knife will not be necessary, but a large number of the good modern Cattleyas will grow perpetually with one single rhyzome unless forced into growth from the rear of the plants in this manner.
“ ever receive any water in Cypripediums.—These should be in flower
6) lou from. Previous Page) was much fe m Grande: At one time there of this ominia of opinion on the culture relative sae bag to see it in flower was a ouseiin ae t was usually grown in a hot Toss) aie Seheiaatdtael compost of fibre and POO. Tn fox pate were indifferent or very @ six-bulbed ete my back bulb was this year ulbs are ie ant with seven leads and the and 14 inches ae 3-inches high, 24-inches wide and I saws thick, It is in flower now (March) ; small plant grown under conditions
Similar t ar to m : Owers, Y own with three spikes of good
Te is saj said coo cea Odontoglossums require shade, Phere, but a and a misty ‘undefined atmos- English nurseri Ooper an expert of one of the
ries f : ard to rence says they find it very
Can st ate Serve that srande, © this is not 50 Sy ne
i mathout any equivocation, or re- iegaaspche species Odonoglossum Beene O. Schlieperianum, that : , ydney. Their culture here in Ys Precisely that of Cymbidiums—no es » In anyway whatever. So i s . So if you * O. Grande as you do your cymbid.
it will reward you each March to April with its erect spikes of 5-7 flowers of beautiful gold, barred with red brown from the new half grown lead.
Slowly but surely we are enlarging the group of species which can successfully be grown, out of doors—away from traditional English cul- tural methods (hitherto, our only guide) by actual cultural experience.
It would make interesting reading to com- pile a list of the different genera that can be readily, and reasonably, grown under bush house conditions in Sydney and its environs.
Your O. Grande should flower in 3 years from a back bulb, which should be treated exactly the same as the cymbidium back bulb, or the Zygopetalum bulb. When established, place it amongst your cymbidiums and forget about it for it is not a hard orchid to grow—easier than Zygopetalum in that its new shoots do not have the reprehensible tendency to dump off. To prophesy, I am sure that this year there will be several or more specimens in flower at our monthly meetings and in the old days years might pass withour such an exhibit at our meetings.
’ Page 30
Cypripediums |
L. SASSO, Henley. N.S.W.
@ This issue Mr. W. Fahey has asked me to substitute for him as he feels that readers would appreciate a change and the opinions of some- one else other than himself after twelve months of writing for the A.O. Review.
Mr. Fahey is recognised as somewhat of an authority on Cyps. His plants are well known to Show-goers and they speak for themselves and I feel a bit diffident in taking over from such a capable grower. However, I have been growing these subjects now for several years and have achieved some success with their culti- vation and on the Show-table.
Not specialising in any particular genus of Orchid, I can and do admire the different varie- ties and can truthfully say that I have a great liking for “slippers.”
Briefly, the reason for this, is that most of them are hardy, easy to divide and propogate, quite distinct from any other form of Orchid, the flowers are very long lasting, not easily damaged, can be grown in a limited area, and
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 194ed
ee ee
| | some of the latter day hybrids are brightly, coloured and a great improvement on the spe cies. Many of the species are quite nice and suit able to the beginner.
I grow my plants in a cool glasshouse with 4 low flat roof scarcely 8 feet from the grount level. The glass is wire reinforced which has che, advantage of preventing shattering from hail of the stray slug or stone from the school boys” catapult.
The glass is painted all over the outside wit) ordinary household white paint about Octobe each year, and by the time Winter arrives, che paint has either peeled off or has worn very thin and so lets in more light during the dulle part of the year. |
While my plants are doing very well indeed) I would not go so far as to say that the flat type roof is any real advantage over the gable- rye roof.
One point I would like to emphasise is chat) “slippers” must be grown in a shaded position
i SR ain a
or at least in bud at this time. Give them no water on the foliage or on the flower buds and restrain your watering during these months to sufficient to keep the soil moist but never to allow the soil to get wet. If you have large plants, May would be about the best time to sever the rhyzome and separate the back flower growths from the forward ones. However, I would not recommend this action unless there were more than two flowered growths includ- ing that flowering this year, behind the forward lead which should now be showing itself. Cymbidiums.—Your chief care during the three months under review will be to Protect your flowers and make the most attractive dis- play possible. I firmly believe in staking every flower spike and in tying it frequently as it develops. They are so soft and succulent that unless properly staked it is very easy for them to be broken. This would particularly apply in New South Wales with plants in the open where such animals as cats or dogs could move amongst the plants and break the spikes. During this
period also, the greatest possible care against —
slugs and snails should be taken. I have found that the “New Defender” is very reliable for this purpose. A little sprinkled about the benches will possibly keep them in check. However, as a further protection, as soon as the flower buds
break out of the sheath, I would suggest wrap
ping a liberal quantity of cotton wool soul the stem just below the lowest bud. These pest will not crawl across dry cotton wool. Thi would indicate to you that in watering you" Cymbidiums you should never allow the cotto! wool to get saturated, for your will immediatel! lose its protection. Cymbidiums should be kep' moist during the whole of the winter withou! allowing them to get wet, and if you desire sever the plants to enineee your stock in che coming spring, the month of May would prob ably be the best time to do it. {
With all Orchids now careful attention mu“ be paid to the boiler, for you will meet troub! if your fire goes out on a frosty night. The u% of blinds for protection from the sun will nd be necessary during these months and all ht direct sun that can be admitted will be helpful Also, you should watch your ventilation caf’ fully, having it completely closed on really coll nights, open in the day time on sunny days, be | only" partially open in the daytime if the weathe is cold and wet.
As your flowers open, if your glass house co to allow condensate to drip at night, you shoul keep a careful watch for this and see that not of the flowers are in the direct line of any drip® Better still, stop the drips if you can. |
j
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
they being ver much light,
wernt Gis find that whitewash on the blinds ein satisfactory, while others provide pean ncn a ncssion shading has proved all that tequired in other houses, rae cal fay. ae very porous pots, manufac- tanreeetie a at the present time they are ccna aN ancy that the plants thrive alae ace i as the pots keep moist longer, -indl die rs ing all round the pot both above cae the surface of the potting mixture. Ky ane aes much lighter than the ordinary this aien ay moss forms on them very readily, site eee Fe HEE from a cultural point of cee st the roots in good condition, thes aun mewhat unsightly and necessitates ew te bain washed or hosed with a strong diastase sae rid of the mat of moss before Gaara € plant into the home for table dec- Or on to the Show-bench.
M . 24 . bate eae mixture consists of one-half new that has been stacked for a few months,
to : is ppite one-half leaf-mould, consisting experi 0f pine needles. Contrary to the general
tence of others I have found pine needles
Y impatient of sun’s rays or even
to e very good leaf- ld : sae down eenatiten 2 when old and in a an bark alone seems a little deficient in
nourishment f. Important ite ut this is a
or the plants. Watering is a most mM in growing any type of Orchid, story in itself,
Page 31
EPIDENDRUM, CILIARE This species is not seen in many collections. The flowers are white and interesting. In general appearance the plant resembles a Cattleya. Some- what difficult to grow well. J. R. Bailey, Bot- anic Gardens, Toowoomba, Q’ld is the grower.
What to Lecture About
Dr. D. A. HERBERT, D.Se., Queensland University, @.
eT : = Se titel part of the preparation of lety pa the choice of subject. In the Orchid an oat of the problem is solved; it must Other ty : pas the lecturer wants to talk about that alee @) ee he must start by saying Ouse navies Plants in the bush house or glass Crats of ‘i ee excellent setting for the aristo- Teference 1 Plant kingdom. The preliminary Nends at pate aristocracy of the orchid wins the beginning, and the friendly re-
Seption ma y continue i Yr he €ctur g to the end of the
€rns o t Crotons. Orchi . Orch Ww reverse the : id growers may, of course,
© in other societies. Some time
280 I re a “y: : : ecturing d oSetallesa paper, in which the author an a i i i ow well C quarium society pointed out
fish. [ attleyas set off a collection of gold- With ge he went on to talk about Cattleyas, urther mention of goldfish. Now here
ugh all the rest may be about ’.
is the raw material for a whole series of papers on plants that might have some bearing on orchid. culture. Crotons, dracaenas, primulas, generas, achimenes and so on lend colour in off seasons; ferns give a light touch of foliage. But there are the trees that make good outdoor perches for epiphytic orchids. No one has given us a lecture on them but they would make quite a good paper, and be right on the subject of orchid culture. Different growers use different trees, mostly these that they happen to have growing already. There are the frangipani, the bark of which is a little too dry in the Brisbane climate, but which is very popular in the East Indies, the Queensland Nut (one of the best), the various species of citrus, mango and a host of others. When we can beat the dendrobium beetle (and we must give D.D.T. a trial for that purpose) and the wasp that pollinates the
Page 32
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Notes on the Australian Hyacinth Orchid Dipodium Punctatum
REV.
@ Among the most familiar terrestrial Orchids in many areas of eastern Australia and Tas- mania is Dipodium punctatum, commonly and not inaptly known as the Hyacinth Orchid. Al- though leafless, the beauty of the flowers in a well-developed specimen makes it a general favourite with those who know it. The prevail- ing colour in most districts is bright pink with deep red spots. Except in northern areas, it comes into flower towards midsummer, when most of our bush flowers are over; and perhaps it is for this reason that it has not suffered from the depredations of vandals to the same extent as many of the earlier-flowering plants. It is subject to much variation, both in dimensions and in the colour scheme of the flowers. In what
H. M. R. RUPP, Northbridge. N.S.W.
we may regard as the type form, the flowers are as described above, the labellum being white or pale, and the stem usually though not in- variably dark red. Leaves are represented by a number of more or less imbricate scales at the base of the stem, and a few small bracts higher up. The height of the plant ranges from under 30 to over 90 cm. (1 to 3 feet). Most plants are comparatively robust, but very slender forms are not uncommon. The flowers are borne in a raceme towards the top of the stem, and vary in number from 5 to as many as 40. Botanically, the Hyacinth Orchid is known AS a holosaprophyte, and its intimate relations with a minute fungoid form of life, by which it is invaded and from which it obtains its neces-
Cooktown Orchids as soon as they open, there will be a lot more dendrobiums grown on trees. There are the bush trees to be listed as the fav- ourite perches of native Orchids; ironbarks and Brisbane boxes for Dendrobium aemulum, the Antarctic beech for Dendrobium falcorostrum, and so on. I think this sort of survey might be very useful. We certainly have not got iron- barks, Brisbane boxes and beeches in our back yards ,except in exceptional cases, but in our search for composts I think we are making a big mistake in restricting ourselves to fern roots and sphagnum for the main constituent. Chopped bark of some habitual orchid-harbouring trees seems to be a reasonable basis for experiment. Lectures on native orchids seldom gain any converts to the culture of the smaller and less spectacular of the Australian species. Most of our members have enough to do with their imported types and with the more horticultur- ally desirable of the natives, such as Dendrob- ium phalaenopsis, D. bigibbum, D. Superbiens and D, undulatum, without bothering about the smaller terrestrials and epiphytes. But there is considerable scope for the cultivation of more native species than are in general cultivation. There is the opportunity for a series of papers on the methods of cultivation of such things as Dendrobium Kingianum, D. falcorostrum, the pencil orchids, Calanthe veratrifolia and other desirable types. Our native Cymbidiums, particularly the black orchid (C. Sparksii) de- serves a paper, with special emphasis on the value
of the rubble from rotten trees as a potting medium.
I don’t think that all members have fully explored the possibilities of terrestrial orchids in the open garden beds. Certainly Epidendrum Boundii and E. O/’Brienianum are popular enough, but a paper on other ground orchids could bring to notice such easily grown plants as Sobralia, Bletia, and even the neglected natives, Calanthe veratrifolia, Phaius and Spathoglottis. In our monthly raffles for the patriotic funds, a plant of say Dendrobium Wardianum, which past experience should suggest will last only a season or two, would almost invariably be chosen as first prize in preference to these terrestrials, and mainly because they have not been urged as ordinary garden plants. They are not at their best as badly treated pot plants.
Many of our members would welcome expli- cit instructions on the dividing up of their orchids—something more detailed than a mere suggestion to take back-cuts. They would like to know how they are to tell when a plant is ready for division without being set back, and what plants are suitable subjects. They could be told which is the’ best month for dividing their Cymbidium clumps, for cutting off the tops of the Vandas, and replanting them, and where to make the cut in a Cattleya. It is not everyone who knows these things instinctively and a few rules of thumb particularly in regard to the best months for these operations would be of great value, just as is the rule for plant- ing sweet peas on St. Patrick’s Day.
q : ] j
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Ped wean)
JN,
DIPODIUM PUNCTATUM
The type form, drawing about natural size.
- Sar bese ate of special interest. This subject uckie i equately dealt with by Dr. John Mc- ings Or ai Sydney University, in the Prooced- tl € Linnean Society of N.S.W., Vol. other (1922), p- 293. There are, however, are eae of interest about this Orchid which These are. the scope of Dr. McLuckie’s paper. Concerned chiefly with colour scheme,
Dese are 1Mensio : 8, geographic distribution, altitude and
Page 33
character of habitat, and the practicability of cultivation.
1. Colour Scheme.—The colour of the type form has already been indicated. Variants from this are: (i) Flowers red with pale pink spots— just the reverse of the typical scheme; (ii) Flowers wholly deep maroon except for the pale lakellum; (iii) Flowers dark mauve. This form is rare, and has only been collected by me once, in the Paterson Valley, N.S.W.; (iv) Flowers greyish-pink, without any spots. This form be- longs to the far north of the continent, and was described by Schwartz in 1927 as a distinct species, D. stenocheilum. In the “North Queens- land Naturalist” for December, 1939, I exp- pressed agreement with Schwartz’s. view; but. subsequent investigation of better material than I had had, and comparison with a large series of specimens of D. fusctatum from many areas, convinced me that D. stenocheilum should be reduced to a form of the latter. (“North Queens- land Naturalist,’ June, 1944). The labellum is a little longer and narrower than in the type, and the pubescence on its mid-lobe is more extensive; but I found that these variations could be matched perfectly in certain specimens from Southern Queensland and New South Wales, which were growing in association with typical plants. Le
2. Dimensions.—These are extremely vari- able, both in the plant itself and in the flowers. Generally speaking, the tallest and most robust plants are found in southern areas—though this rule is subject to exceptions. The size of the flowers appears to vary quite irrespectively of latitude. The minimum diameter from tip to tip of the perianth-segments would be about 15 mm., and the maximum rather more than twice as much. There does not seem to be any connection between the size of the flowers and the robustness or otherwise of the plant— a very slender plant may sometimes produce large flowers, and a robust plant small ones.
3. Geographic Distribution, and Altitude and Character of Habitat.—These points may conveniently be taken together. They in- dicate a remarkable adaptability to environment, such as exhibited by no other Orchid known to me in our continent. I have personally col- lected Dipodium punctatum on the shores of D’Entrecasteaux Channel in southern Tasmania; and I have received specimens from the Nor- thern Territory and the far north of Queens- land. he species occurs in all the States ex- cept Western Australia. I have seen it growing a few feet above sea level, and at an altitude of about 1300 m. (4000 ft.): in almost raw
Page 34
sand, in red loam, in heavy black soil, and in hard shale or clay. Dr. McLuckie (l.c., p. 309) describes it as growing “in the humus under Eucalypts;” but although it is probably most abundant in such an environment, it occurs quite freely under other conditions. It is not unknown inland from the Dividing Range; but undoubtedly it prefers the coastal belt, and it has never been recorded from the plains of the in- terior. Its range from north to south—exclusive of Tasmania—must be about 1500 miles. In New South Wales the range from east to west would not exceed 200 miles.
4. Practicability of Cultivation.—At sight of a good specimen of this Dipodium in full bloom, the Orchid fancier instinctively desires to add it to his collection. Many have tried; I have yet to hear of anyone who has succeeded. I have dug up a large square of earth contain- ing a budding plant, and have removed it with- out disturbing the root system. It flowered, and as is the habit of the species, afterwards died down; but it never reappeared, and when ultim- ately I made investigations, a few dead fibrous scraps of roots were all I could find. Some people have argued that this refusal to grow in cap- tivity proves that the orchid must be a para- site on the roots of trees. The only evidence
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 that could prove the correctness of this sug- gestion would be the finding of Dipodium roots which had penertated the living tissue of their supposed host, and were feeding on it. Dr. Mc- Luckie’s investigations, and perhaps I may add, my own over a long period of years, have failed to find a single case which might support the idea of parasitism on roots. Personally I have no doubt that the failure of the plant to respond to cultural methods is directly connected with its peculiar mode of life. I cannot go into details here of the “symbiotic relation” between the orchid and the fungus that invades its roots: but to put it roughly, the Orchid is fed by the waste products of its invader, and vice versa. If the invader threatens to increase dangerously, the Orchid produces special cells to devour it and keep it within bounds. Now my theory is that when the Orchid is removed from its nat- ural habitat, in some way the delicate balance of these relations is upset, with fatal results to Dipodium. I admit freely that this is theory and nothing more; but I think it would be worth while for some one younger than myself to in- vestigate along this line, and perhaps ultimately to solve the problem of successfully cultivating a very beautiful flower.
Observations on Cymbidiums in Sydmey A. R. BEGG, Bellevue Hill, N.S.W.
@ During recent years there has been several excellent articles appearing in this Review con- cerning the culture of Cymbidiums in Sydney and I find it difficult to break new ground re- garding the growing of these wonderful hybrids. Thanks to these articles and the exchange of views at our monthly meetings we have con- siderably improved our culture both in quality and quantity, for here, as I write this, in mid- February, I should say that at least 90 per cent. of my large plants are showing signs of flower- ing. : ; We are considerably fortunate in Sydney in being able to grow Cymbidiums in bush houses with perhaps a little glass protection in a shel- tered corner to place plants that are about to open their flowers. The only drawback I see is that we start with a collection of a few dozen plants and in a few years we have hundreds, and a lot of work. I agree with the generally accepted practice that cymbids should receive as many hours daily
of sunlight as possible, with slight filter of ti-
tree or some similar roof. If you can, give them
9 -hours daily in summer and about 8 hours in winter. A North-East aspect is ideal. If your house is exposed to South and West run some clear glass along these sides and you will find your plants flower more freely and the spikes will come earlier. Give plants due to flower posi-
tions of most sunlight, moving the smaller ones —
into the shady positions but do not move a plant suddenly from shade to sunlight, do it gradu- ally. Compost.—The question of compost is always a debatable subject but the physical nature of it is very important, it must be free and open. It is important that the grower under- stands the vast difference between the construc- tion of the root system of cymbidiums and the roots of ordinary garden plants and shrubs. The fibrous roots of plants with their millions of almost microscopic root hairs absorb large quan- tities of water, these wiry roots will withstand much more sodden conditions than the soft thick, fleshy roots of cymbidiums. This does not mean a curtailment of watering, cymbidiums require lots of water in the warmer season and
——
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
a little j . ane in the dormant months, even continuous wae is beneficial if the compost is open. The tf must not be ! edb; stagnant, but run through 4 etting back to compost, something like this houuld suffice: Cod sweet well rotted
pas SG) 24 parts by measure y rotted tan bark . 25a; Curse sand _. 1 : in i Some Rhe NLS Aifiey Fees ” »” ” arcoal (small lumps) J ereesshe less »
spnounce pis hard and fast to these propor- use only 0 ark or leaf mould, some growers i eno with sand, but I think both should relk dia as the tan bark taking longer to i 2 Baud release the plant food at the Satie ee 3 of a compost required for a plant Ais Hai years or more. Most leaves are suit- Fess eae gum leaves, which have given insignus) R Be do not use pine needles (pinus rot dow, s the leaves take several months to Citizens oe Must arrange your compost re- bitin ee year ahead. To hasten the rotting little old ss of leaf mould and tanbark add a - oOmpost or manure to the heap, keep
JUSt moist : st ae : often in a warm position and turn it over Tr A : all ane nd standardize your composts so they
Se ete and if you find a pot where eae Oes not pass through quickly and it ae we On top get the plant out of that Pree ore trouble starts with rotted roots out int y rotted bulbs. Spread your compost oe e ane before using it to remove slugs, eT ae etc. Use it almost dry.
tone ke int when repotting choice plants is ome and eae underneath and around the rhiz- bulb ror st Sas an added protection against lara me basa the primary eyes against ant Rvecits of compost is controlled by the canvredtas you have little time to water you ty out Ss rch sand, also for small pots which ire esti ly it is advisable to close the mix- the eet ing the withholding of water from D dyceai pected plants for 5 days or more as
would sq Yaons of Sydneys’ leading growers Brower ig ay €s, good idea! particularly if the Btowers h, Ot using added heat. In Sydney many repotti, tve not heated houses therefore when 80 easy Stet AL August, or early September ave been, i. ¢ watering of repotted plants that ence of roken up, until you get some evid-
Stowth starting.
Urin changes 2 these months we get sudden cold tions temperature, back to winter condi-
whi F > Which sometimes last several days, In
the eco COm
too
Page 35
October root action is quicker and plants can receive more water and I think this is a more suitable time to repot rundown plants although it may be late and miss next season’s flowering. Personally I repot Aug.-Sept. for large plants and the smaller ones any time of the year except winter months,
I read an article recently by a Melbourne grower who repots in early Spring and adyo- cates watering immediately, but this grower will place his plants in a heated house and probably use bottom heat as well. If you have seen these aids it is easy.
Regarding waternig throughout the year it is difficult to put on paper, commonsense’ must be used in this important part of culture. I have two groups of cymbidiums in two houses both with similar ti-tree roof and aspect but one has an earth floor while the other has sandstone slabs, this latter house requires almost twice as much watering as the other. Generally I would say in the summer months water every evening and perhaps in the mornings as well on very hot days, gradually reduce toward winter when once or twice weekly would do but only in the mornings.
The growing of Cymbidiums is an education, the different types and nature of plants in simi- lar crosses is remarkable. The grower must get to know his plants, some are robust and good growers, others are slow and fussy. Some make large bulbs but grow slowly, others make small bulbs but grow like weeds. Some flower them- selves to death, others are shy flowerers and we have to resort to tricks to make them do some- thing. Some require plenty of sunlight when coming to flower, others do better if kept in the shade, also the same plant grown by different persons using different methods will give differ- ent results. All this adds to the interest of a very interesting and fascinating hobby that is growing at a remarkable rate in this country.
® Orchid Exhibitions.—We will be pleased to receive from Interstate Societies official re- ports of Exhibitions held during the 1946 season. Organisers of other Societies, Trade and Charity Shows are invited to send along short reports of their show events.
© Zygopetalum Machayii.—This Orchid with its long lasting very sweetly scented flowers should be more popular. It is very easy to grow if treated as, and grown with the Cymbidiums. During the next three months treat as for Cym- bidiums. Repot in August or September in Cym- bidium mixture—T.H.]J.
Page 36
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 |
Notes for Novices T. H. JAMES, Hazelbrook. N.S.W.
@ The cheerless months of winter are with us again; obvious of course, about it being winter, but there are some who won’t agree that it is cheerless. They are welcome to their opinions. Most of our Orchids do not seem to worry about it over much. They sort of hibernate and do not require much attention and the only safe gener- alisation to make regarding them is to give too little rather than too much water. All moss used as topping and also in sides of baskets should be removed if not already done. I intended to men- tion this in the March notes but cannot remem- ber whether I did and the March issue has not yet appeared as I write these notes. Anyway it will bear repeating. Apart from retaining too much moisture it would tend to keep the rhiz- omes damp and cold and may cause rot. There are several jobs that could be done during winter such as preparing compost for repotting when that time shall have arrived. Time passes so rapidly with most of us that if preparations for jobs ahead be not made beforehand potting will find us racing round for materials and for lack of time, some plants that needed repotting will have to stand over until next year. That hap- pens with me too often. I hate to think what an experienced observer would discover from a critical comparison of some of my plants with the advice I offer to others. But I could pro- duce a good alibi. Incidentally I know quite a few who do not practice what they preach but what I do preach is the result of considerable exnerience and observation. Houses could receive a general clean up, painting, etc. If left until spring, it either will not be done at all, or the work will be hurried and patchy.
- Light.—As advised in last issue it would be better if all paint were removed to permit full sunlight reaching the plants. The rays are at too low an angle now to do any harm and abund- ance of light is necessary for the chemical changes that take place in a plant’s make up.
Ventilation.—Do not seal up the house just because it is winter. It is impossible to retain much warmth in the general type of glasshouse without artificial heat. So ventilators on the sheltered side should be kept open or partly so even at night to maintain air circulation. And remember plants are accustomed to a lower tem- perature at night than during day.
Cymbidiuwms.—Most of the early varieties have finished flowering and will need very little
water until August when root action will com-_ mence in coastal districts. As to the majority the flower spikes will be moving very slowly until August and until then give only sufficient — water to maintain a moist compost. Most of the Cymbidiums grown in New South Wales are_ either in bush houses or out in the open, and with these rain takes a hand, but if the pots be well drained, raised off the ground’ and the compost of an open nature, the rain will do no harm. During August water should be increased and liquid manure the colour of weak tea provided about every ten days. A glass roof would be 4 great asset to flowers by protecting them from inclement weather, but not essential. A dark background would help to prevent twisted spikes. Repotting is generally in full swing in August. In coast districts that may be quite in order but I have found that in cooler districts root action does not start until later and if plants be repotted before that happens there 1s a tendency for it to be unduly delayed and in some cases roots may even suffer injury and the bulbs shrivel. So I would suggest, if in doubt, that a few pots be upended and plants carefully lifted out. If there are no signs of new life defer potting for a while. This does not anply so much where it is intended only to trans- fer to a larger pot as to where it is necessary to break up plants. In either case however better results would be obtained by waiting until there are definite signs of activity. As to compost ! still believe there is no such thing as the one and only formula, The fine results achieved in a great variety of composts should be sufficient evidence of that. So long as it has a fair amount of plant nutriment, is of an open nature that will remain damp without being wet, and the pot with at least a quarter of its depth in drain- age, the actual ingredients do not much matter. Enlarge drainage hole if possible and raise pots above ground to admit air to the roots. Com- post should be used comparatively dry. Do not water plants for several days and then sparingly for about two weeks. If plant is to be broken up remove all old bulbs except two front ones and also all dead or damaged roots. If not to be broken up hose away all old compost. Suspend plant over the new pot and gently rotate so that roots settle down in a spiral manner, thus avoid- ing damage. Roots are very brittle and if forced into pots in any other way would be seriously injured and rot. Plants that do not require
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Rae could be assisted by hosing out some G old compost and filtering in fresh.
he Sale a tems will now be in full bloom and as ey) a ae rotting buds mainly over as, ee Tae Sue leaf axil, they are practically aes reo sufficient water to keep compost rides shea in mind that tan bark requires ore va ‘ a other composts. After flower- eer ee ed is the usual time for repotting. Aue cages this should be deferred until tee re i on later. Various composts are in Alken re prefer tan bark. In the past I ore ee my supplies given to me but up
ad to obtain my own and thereby gained
SsOme : ; 5,
sane Buenas I went to a tannery at Kings- and got som j i
irr g e bark just out of the pit. I
te unsatisfactory as all plants potted in it te die Practically stationery all the season Soinscline a after the bark had broken down ak 8 the plants made particularly good Atl coe mae parently very fresh bark is either too fenl ii A : a state to be available as plant Ghaniinihe © had very good results by using a ae aerate to which an equal part of onl dey See een added. When repotted keep sparingly { or about ten days and then water apc or another two weeks. Thereafter as stablished plants.
agi ee etc for one regret that so few ft ah eauti Ful Orchids are seen these days. romyled ue immense numbers were imported oS dives urma and thereabouts. Surely most they ae ave pene out. Then, where are ts sre nobile is the best known and one ane ee aro: There are now some very fa mae aoe that species. Den. Wardianum is, rarely ey oa the gem of the genus but it is ore _ 4 ave been told it is very difficult meh al as grown and flowered well with
of : a fase ese neglect. It is really a bush house uring bers would need protection from rain Dress uns Should be repotted at least every ing cae ts. Requires practically no water dur- infundibal: I would place after those two Den. a es vag and its variety Jamesianum. They lowish ss eects pure white except for a yel- weeks ah ing in the lip. They last about ten or as are produced from the same bulb for. en ‘Pig ore years. Keep on dry side all winter. a oe is another attractive species of growely Owth with long slender pendulous owerin up to four feet long and very free era Keep practically dry all winter. hats bes endrobiums should now be showing should er buds. Whilst very little or no water © given the bulbs should not be allowed
nt : : he past but just now showing evidence.
Page 37
CALANTHE, VERATRIFOLIA The “Scrub Lily” is also known as the “Christ- mas Orchid.” The leaves resemble an aspidistra, but are paler and much softer. The three-lobed lip is large and, gives the impression of a double
flower. The flowers turn black if touched.
to shrivel. As spring approaches more water will be required but according to weather condi- tions and whether in bush or glass house. Trans- fer to a glass house, if possible, when buds are about to open.
Cattleyas.—The chief problem for cool house growers will be to maintain a dry atmosphere during the cold months. Cold combined» with damp may cause losses. If the house be devoted to Cattleyas or Cattleyas and Dendrobiums only the matter is simple, but where other Orchids and foliage plants are also grown under the one roof the Cattleyas should be grouped together at one end and the surroundings kept dry. This does not mean that the plant should be kept quite dry. The bulbs must not shrivel, give only enough water to prevent that.
Page 38 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
ODONTOGLOSSUM GRANDE
Colour, chestnut brown on bright yellow. Lasts over 3 weeks. Requires a little more shade than cymbidiums. Grown by R. A. Begg, Bellevue Hill. Photo, Norman Keith, Petersham, N.S.W.
AUSTRALIAN ORCHI
Sepals and petal
D REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 Page 39
CATTLEYA, AMETHYSTOGLOSSA $s rosy lilac, lip deep amethyst. Average blooms about 6 or 7; this one carries fourteen.
An unusually beautiful specimen. Grown by H. Campbell, Brisbane. Photograph, H. Solomon, New Farm.
1946
Page 40 AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, ORCHID SOCIETY . Dense OF EXHIBITIONS N.S.W. 1946
B.C. CLIFTONVILLE
, 4
The Winter Show
will be held at the Austral Salon, 152 Elizabeth St., Sydney on 4th July, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Cypripediums will be seen at their best; and new hybrids flowering for the first time. Cattleyas, Cymbidiums, etc., will also be on display.
The Spring Show The Society's main Exhibition will be held at David Jones’ pre- mises, I 1th, I2th, 13th September. Cymbidiums in their full glory, Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, Lycastes and other attractive varieties.
The Society's Awards and Medals will again lo awarded for those Exhibits deemed worthy by the Committee.
BERNARD JESSOP, Hon. Secretary. JA 7122. 18 Hercules Street, Chatswood.
j
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Page 41
CYPRIPEDIUM PARISHII Grown and photographed by J. R. Bailey, Curator of Parks and Gardens, Toowoomba, Queensland.
Peas: in coastal districts will be showing ee atl ou life at the end of August. Septem- ithe e early enough to repot. In the mean- di Protect swelling buds or new shoots from gs. aro tis Cease all overhead watering. If oa fiostside during summer remove to 8lass- much i erm situation for winter. Provide as enough a5 t as possible. _ September is early cies foe © repot. Ph. Walliachii is the best spe- Lan novices.
al baile Skinneri.—Compost should be kept _ eet during winter, Provide as much light Until) i Generally flowers from late winter — ‘ _into spring but with me always Hog Ewice—in early Autumn and again in
Pring, ® The Austr 8taphs Cation or
dlian Orchid Review.—Photo- » questions, letters and articles for publi- should be addressed to the Hon. Editor Ssociates at their home address.
@aA :
2 ver communications regarding back numbers,
mene isements, changes of address, and pay- of subscriptions for the “Review” should Irect ' F
Shep ed to the printers, and publishers,
yd erd and Newman Pty. Ltd., Yurong Street, ney, N.S.W.
@ Photographs.—Photographs should be accompanied by: (1) The correct name of the Orchid; (2) The grower’s name; (3) The photographer’s name; (4) Three or four lines of description, size, and colour of flower or other points of interest.
Repotting.—When repotting terrestrials it is an advantage to place some material such as moss, leaves, fibre or even old hessian over drain- age to prevent the soil washing into it and so impairing its efiiciency.—TI.H.]J.
Awards issued by the Orchid Society of N.S.W. during the year 1945:
Award of Merit.
Cymbidium, Girrahween, var. “Gloria,” C. H. Deane; appeared in the March issue incorrectly as, Cymbidium, Girrahween, var. “Glorious,” C. R. Deane.
Highly Commended.
Cymbidium, Arabella. “Waverley,” was omitted. Award of Merit.
Cymbidium, Charm, var. “Elegans.” L. F. Hawley. The original of this plant was known as Cymbidium Charm, var. “Elegance.” It has now been agreed to retain the name “Elegance.”
R. Dart. The varietal name
Page 42
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
The Principles of Hybridization
RR. H. NEM, Leichhardt, N.S.W.
@ In the study of hybridising, it is necessary first of all, to have a good working knowledge of the processes of a plant, in order that the worker may have a fuller understanding of the forces with which he proposes to work. He most certainly should understand as fully as possible, the processes he causes to begin the instant he places the pollen on to the stigmatic surface. He should also have a good cultural knowledge of various plants, so that he may form a reason- ably accurate method of treating the seedlings of hybrids made between two plants of widely differing habits of growth. He must also expect to devote quite a considerable amount of his time and money to his studies and experiments, as it takes quite some few years for Orchid seed- lings to reach the adult stage.
To successfully combine the qualities of dif- ferent plants by crossing, requires a rare degree of skill and judgment. It might seem, perhaps, a comparatively simple matter to make all pos- sible Cattleya crosses, for example, and select the best. But in practice it is found that the num- ber of possible combinations is so great, and re- sults so varied, that short-cut methods must be used.
The hybridiser must be able to reasonably forecast what the result of a certain cross will be, in order not to waste time on profitless ex- periments. It is just here that the opportunity for the employment of the highest skill, based not only on empirical knowledge, but on a pro- found insight into the laws of heredity and variation, and a sound philosophy of nature arises. Moreover, there must be a clear-cut ideal present in the mind of the worker, towards which he persistently strives, and from which he refuses to diverge even for the most promising side ‘issues.
Orchids, like all other plant life, are divided into classes or genera, such as the Laeliae or Laelias; the Epidendrae or Epidendrums; the Cymbidiae and Cymbidiums, and these are again divided in some cases into sub-tribes.
These are again divided into what we call species, which are the individual nomenclature of the plants found in their native state. Two well known examples which should be in every beginner’s collection are Cym. Traceyanum and Cym. Giganteum.
Now, it is a familiar fact that every plant shows some variation, since no two plants, or
leaves even, are exactly alike, and it has been discovered that variation obeys certain laws.
It not only confines itself within certain lim- its, but there is a certain average form or type around which the variation group themselves. If we examine a number of plants of the same species or kind, we will readily notice that this holds true, as there will be well defined differ- ences in colours, spots, or shaps of floral parts, and differences between plants in leaf length and breadth. These variations are commonly called fluctuating variations, because. they fluctuate around a mean or average type; and to distin- guish them from sudden variations or sports, such as reversions and monstrosities, which are sudden and apparently lawless variations from the type, and only occur occasionally; fluctuat- ing variations on the other hand, occur every- where and in all plants. To explain the differ- ence between these terms, let us take as an ex- ample a peach tree, which may occasionally pro- duce a branch which bears only nectarines. This is called a sport. If this branch be cut off and used as a cutting, it will produce a nectarine tree. Occasionally a branch of this will produce peaches; this return to the original condition is termed a reversion or atavism, and is also apt to occur in plants which are not known to have originated as sports.
The word sport is usually applied to bud varia- tions, but is not necessarily limited to them. It may be used for any kind of sudden variation. The term monstrosity is commonly used to desig- nate a sudden variation which has the appear- ance of a sudden abnormality or deformity.
Sudden variations may or may not come true to seed. By varying the conditions of culture and climate, it is possible for the breeder to pro- duce variations, or as he says ‘break the type.” Some plants respond to this treatment, and others do not. In general, however, this is a tedious pro- cess, and of very small value as compared with crossing.
Sudden variations are sometimes called muta-—
tions, but this is only correct if the plant breeds true in its seedlings.
The adyantages of crossing, are that the breeder can create almost endless variations, and at the same time direct them in the desired channels.
By crossing is meant the fertilization of 3: plant with pollen from a different variety o1
cael
a
a
cc SS te nn rare ect
a Sn
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Sarat The result of the cross is called a hybrid, etic made between two distinct genera, is Sah is aabeneric hybrid, af between a bi-gen- eet nid and another third genus, this would ata ; tri-generic hybrid. The hybrid may e ea oth parents, or possess intermediate ern ae a may resemble one parent more eyes e other, sometimes showing the charac- One parent only.
F This would be a clear case of the domination
oan parent over the other. It frequently hap-
Er s that the hybrid is of greater size and vigour an either of the parents.
' Rs of the most striking traits of hybrids is Alea tendency to vary widely. This can be iy "Ny seen by the variations in foliage, size and eee of bulb, etc., of Cymbidiums having the ee parentage, all having come from the same able pod. Such hybrids represent extremely vari- on OS in which it is practically impossible X anything, mus is no mystery in the method by which aie Hens effected, but one point should be iis Mbered, and that is, that the more difficult Cross, the greater should be the number of Plants used, of a common method of effecting the transfer wae “a from one flower to another is as fol- a AT ake two unused matches, and pare them 4 blunt point, then sterilize by holding the
. Points ; ts in a flame for a few seconds. When cool,
Plac . € the point of one match beneath the: ros-
Soe cap should fly off and the match come y with the pollinia attached. © this with the second match to the other a ake then apply the point of the first match hag: pes of the second flower, and hold it the we Or 2 or 3 seconds, and on withdrawing ok ne the pollen masses will be found to AWE ered to the stigma. It is always advis- lane © effect the reciprocal cross at the same as the one pollination operation may fail. intact ee of the cross should be at once a dist up in a book kept for the purpose, and Unguishing label affixed to the pedicel of
themes tyes flowers, showing the particulars, BWetts
flow
Rs mer : short time, the column will begin
the tip ue the flower to fade, and gradually
Stents the column will grow down over the 1¢ surface, thus entirely sealing it over.
7. ection of pollen may or may not
age ah € setting of fruit. If the parents are
Wess Issimilar species, fruit will ‘not set at It may do so only very occasionally.
resul
t cllum: or beak, and press upwards, when the’
Page 43
Sometimes fruit appears to set,, but on ripen- ing it is found to contain no seed; again, seeds are produced, but are incapable of germination. The seeds may germinate, but the seedlings may prove to be so weak that considerable difficulty is experienced in growing them to maturity. Even in favourable cases, all the seeds are not good, but if only a few good seeds are obtained, it is sufficient for a start to be made.
The period required for Orchid seed pods to mature varies with the species, but usually takes one full season, and even up to two years is not uncommon, ‘
After the seed has been obtained, they may be sown by using one of the several methods available. Direct on the compost of an adult plant, by the Symbiotic or Fungus method, or by the Asymbiotic or Sugar method.
When the seedlings are obtained and finally reach the adult flowering stage, and the blos- soms appear, another important question must be decided. Shall they be pollinated with the pollen of a sister hybrid, either one of the par- ents, or of another variety of the same genus. Here, again, comes the opportunity for the great- est skill and judgment to be exercised.
The flowers are compared and carefully exam- ined, only the most desirable varieties being kept for purposes of further breeding, the remainder being disposed of.
The seeds of these selected varieties are again crossed, and upon flowering, the best. of these again selected. (aR 2S See es
“This is continud indefinitely until a desirable
variety is secured, or until it becomes evident that no good results are to be expected; in that case the plants are all destroyed or otherwise disposed of, and the work of years ends in noth- ing. .
It is very evident, therefore, that hybridiza- tion, with all its marvellous results is but the beginning of plant breeding. All that it does is to furnish mass produced varitions. To seize upon these, even though they be slight, and divert them into the proper channels, to inten- sify the good, and suppress the undesirable quali- ties, until the ideal is reached, is the task of selection.
When plants can be propagated by cuttings
(aerial growths) bulbs or other vegetative parts,
the ideal once achieved is easily maintained, for plants so propagated “come true,” or, in other words maintain the characters of the parent plant with little variation.
Far otherwise, however, with plants which are propagated by seed; for, after selection has
Page 44
achieved the ideal, it has still the task of fixing it so that it will come true to seed.
In order to achieve our ideal, we have had to set into motion the tendency to variation, or, as we say, we have “broken the type.”? When the ideal is achieved, this same tendency which we have set in motion, will destroy our ideal, unless selection is able to suppress the tendency, and so “fix the type,” or in other words bring the plant again to a state of equilibrium. This we can do to a great extent, but not so fully that continued selection is unnecessary, and, as so often happens with ordinary non-orchidaceous garden plants, years elapse before it is suffici- etly fixed to put it on the market.
In the earlier part of this discourse we men- tioned the phenomenons of ‘“‘atavism” and “mutation.”
An atavistic plant is one which exhibits char- acters which its ancestors probably had a long time ago, and which had long lain dormant, but which were now brought out by some unknown cause. This phenomenon is called “atavism” and the plant is called an atavist. If the seeds of such plant are sown, probably few atavists, or none at all will appear in the progeny. It is classed as a sudden variation.
If, now, we should find a plant exhibiting characteristics of a certain nature, and all of whose descendants showed these same character- istics coming perfectly true to seed, and kept
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
this up without need of selection, then this — would constitute a mutation. We have, there- — fore, ordinary fluctuating variations (due partly or wholly to differences in nutrition and external conditions); second, sudden variations, e.g., atavism, monstrosity, etc. (due to causes wholly unknown); if these should come true to seed they would be called mutations, otherwise not. A mutation is a sudden variation which comes, — true to seed, and it is believed that this alone can give rise to a new species.
The prospects for the serious hybridist in Australia, are indeed promising. We have large numbers of native plants from which to evolve new types, and we are indeed fortunate in our climate, for we can successfully cultivate the majority of the Indian species of Dendrobes while the South American Cattleyas, Laelias, Zyzopetalums, Epidendrums, etc., grow in a climate almost parallel to our own.
In conclusion I would like to plead with our growers to assist anyone interested in this fascin- ating section of the Orchid cult, by the dona- tion of flowers or seed, or even to the loan of a plant for the season, for it is only by mutual co-operation, that we in this young country may strive to equal, and eventually to pass, the standards set down by the English growers for new and more beautiful hybrids in all the dif- ferent genera.
Amateur Orchid Cultivation in U.S.A.
R. S. DAVIS, Major A.C. (U.S. Army )
@ A consideration of amateur orchid cultiva- tion in the U.S. requires a realization of the extreme climatic conditions encountered throughout the country and during a year. Further appreciation should also be given to the varied type shelters which are employed, and to those adventurous individuals, living in con- gested areas such as apartment houses, who cul- tivate plants in window boxes and Wardanian Cases (hot houses in miniature), instead of enjoying the advantages of a regular hot house no matter what its size may be.
Climatic variations extend from situations in Florida smilar to the Brisbane area through regions comparable to Sydney, Melbourne and Tasmania, climaxing in the northern sections where winter temperatures fall to 30 degrees below zero (F.). Climatic deviations of this nature have resulted in localized modification of cultivation techniques to provide desired growing conditions and as a result numerous
types of hot houses, shelters and window boxes or Wardanian Cases are designed and utilised.
In Florida, along the Gulf of Mexico and in southern California the mean atmospheric tem- ’ perature is usually high enough to permit the growth of orchids utilizing a glass enclosed shelter without elaborate heating systems. How- ever, on those few nights when the tempera- ture may drop below 45 degrees (F.), intermit- tent heat is provided by various innovations. In some instances a small wood or coal stove which can be banked and allowed to burn slowly dur- ing the night is installed along with a stove pipe extending the length of the house to pro- vide a large heating surface insuring an even distribution of heat. Other installations employ oil or natural gas heaters incorporating circul- ating air or hot water systems.
In cooler zones to the north low tempera- tures encountered at nights over an extensive period as well as during overcast days require
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Page 45
Why do Cymbidiums not flower freely im Sydmey? | R. BRUCE HOGG, Brunswick, Vie.
See article was prompted by discussion on a, ae at a N.S.W. Orchid Society meet- tae seen admitting the low percentage Sate s a offered no reason for it. At the ir see to emphasise that this article is hen I al; it is purely theoretical but I hope eneficial discussion will result. ak. fees of my argument is going to be that mer edie: percentage in Melbourne is very Bek gher than in Sydney. In fact, one fully S at least one flower spike from every
the i : i Installation of permanent intermittent auto-
Matic : Z i ain Rae systems. Circulating hot water ar heaters are employed ; ed and u om cautions ploy adequate pre
ites ahen to assure correct humidity con- sanyeraite ae ee localities it is necs- avon: _ heating arrangements which may dtesaaei continually for some months with control, E a) and night automatic temperature reer fai er, precautions must be taken to innesetee ouse whenever possible eliminating ossibili y ventilation thereby decreasing the ity of heat escape. howe jaaustion in Ohio contains a pair of Hn salva Nnected by a large passage at one end, een bea co mattC systems are provided where- ingeee e. A thermostat controls the open- the root paee of the ventilating windows in coleue the houses as well as the heater for trols an ise Operation. A second system con- ture f, 3 arm which rings when the tempera- ae: to a serious low because of failure of This eee equipment or thermostatic control. not able SRS cine is most satisfactory if one is ever, the Be time for close supervision. How- ing toleoe ae amateur takes pleasure in tend- is ¢ of these chores himself and does not extensive system necessary. wits pears cial grower in the New York area and hrs 1Zes in raisng flowers for the market necessity Annee of 100,000 plants stressed the Ouses in pecxidipedalmest air tight glass te Ra we region in order to conserve the Perature a to maintain correct house tem- Sie au pupiiecence, compared with a glass one Ganieean ern California, is apparent when the ningite the method of glazing the glass. In ce -¢ast this must be accomplished with loose| ‘OWever, in the west the glass is placed Yin the frames and if any cracks occur in
mature plant, provided that no action such as late potting has been taken to stop it from flowering. My observation tells me that Orchids fail to flower for one of four reasons:— 1. That the plant is sterile. 2. That the plant habitually makes foliage and bulbs without flower. 3. That it was heavily divided and .repotted in the previous Spring. 4, That the growths which normally throw
the joints of woodwork it is not a serious con- sideration.
Considerable controversy also continues re- garding the most satisfactory arrangement of benches and pots. Some individuals like the staggered system of shelves or steps while others believe that flat benches are best. While on the question. of the spacing of pots, many are of the opinion that they should be placed 2 or 3 (6 in. pots) to a square foot of shelf space. This arrangement is inducive to a very neat and healthy establishment. However, some of. the other growers find that they can successfully flower the plants even when the pots are cramped and touching.
In southern California Cymbidiums may be grown in the ground under a lath house similar to a bush house. However, to successfully grow the intermediate and warm types of orchids amateur enthusiasts use different types of glass shelters, the most common of which is of a lean-to design which backs on to a garage or side of a house. Here the amateurs’ collections consist primarily of Cattleyas, including C. Trianae, C. Mossiae, C. labiata and some hybrids. Considerable interest is being developed in the cultivation of hybrids including those of Catt leyas, Cymbidiums, and Cypripediums and through this interest many amateurs have col- lections which include a few community pots of seedling hybrid plants. The remainder of the collection may contain some Dendrobiums, On- cidiums and possibly a Vanda or two, also Phalaenopsis and a few Cymbidiums. This group provides a very colourful display throughout the year, and from all indications, the fact that orchid growing is not mysterious but a fascin- ating activity is leading many amateurs into this interestng pastime.
Page 46
the flower are not sufficiently mature when the flowering season arrives.
Dealing with them in turn:—
1.—Can be immediately passed aside. I have seen an odd sterile Cymbidium, but they are so rare as not to be a factor in this argument. Cattleyas, however, are very frequently sterile.
2.—One frequently sees an enormous plant with dark geen foliage and many bulbs. We all know that this plant is sterile because it is over- fed and does not get enough sun and air. The obvious cure here is a change of position to one which makes life somewhat harder for the plant.
3.—We must expect a plant which was heay- ily divided to miss one season’s flowering unless we have growing conditions which enable it to quickly recover from the shock it has receved. A month in bottom heat after repotting is the best cure I know.
4.—Now we come to the main cause; that the flower growth is too immature when the flowering season comes. Having missed the flow- ering season such plants go into growth at once. I am keeping in mind the fact that in Melbourne the percentage of flower is higher than in Sydney, and will try in theory to dis- cover the reason by a comparison of growing methods in the two States. Obviously, this brings glass and heat versus outdoor growing into the argument.
It is my opinion that a plant will recover from the shock of repotting much more quickly under glass with applied heat than would be the case in the open. Let us assume that the advantage here, measured in growing calories, equals one month; then the new growth under glass is theoretically one month older when the flowering season comes, and this would probably make all the difference.
I do think that a certain amount of outdoor treatment helps a plant, but that should be given in the autumn when the new growth has grown its limit in height and is building up the subsequent bulb.
Let us assume that potting is done in July, August and September. Even in Sydney those months can be so cold and wintery that the plant, deprived of its established root system, would remain dormant. Compare that plant in the open during those months with plants under glass where artificial conditions make them sub- limely unconscious of the cold weather outside. The difference, measured in growth calories, must be immense. Similarly, a plant which had
‘the extra ventilation would relieve the house o
nica SI ES
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946 — not been repotted will have lost a large numbet of growing calories during that cold weather, | and would not build up its new growths as well | as under glass.
Another important factor is the rain which falls during those cold months. If saturated in cold weather, a plant will remain dormant until _ warmer weather comes. This would apply to large plants which have not been repotted and to a greater degre to those which have been disturbed.
Sydney growers are fortunate in their clim- ate, for a small back yard will accommodate a large number of plants, but I think that here in Melbourne we can console ourselves that out climate forces us to use glass and heat, and as a result we get a higher percentage of flowers.
In Sydney I have observed a high percentage of flower with Cattleyas, Slippers and other Orchids given glass house culture, but with Cymbidiums, just as free flowerers, they are puzzled by a low percentage of flowers, and it is my firm opinion that if they had glass and a little added heat through the winter, right to the time when cold weather is a thing of the past, all worry about a low percentage of flower would disappear.
Cymbidiums are more free with their flowers in Melbourne than Cypripediums and Cattleyas. In Sydney, to my observation, Cattleyas and Cypripediums flower just as freely, if not more freely, under glass, than is the case in Melbourne, and yet in Sydney, while growing in the open, Cymbidiums do not average much more than half the percentage of flower than is the case in Melbourne. I think I am right in claiming that the annual occurrence of sun is greater in Sydney than Melbourne, and for that reason | | would expect a higher percentage of flower un- — less for some reason this advantage were coun- tered in some manner, and I think that is the check received during the cold months of winter and early spring.
Finally, I would love to see some Sydney grower grow Cymbidiums entirely under glass, with heat on from the end of April until early November, using a glass house with much more ventilation than in Melbourne, but having that ventilation under control, so that when it is abnormally cold it can be closed to retain the heat from. the boiler. Naturally, blinds would be necessary to stop too great an accumulation of sun heat during the warm weather, but they would not need to shade as often as we do, for
q
j
|
|
|
j
|
much heat which is retained in Melbourne.
| | | | | | | | | } | |
AUSTRALIAN ORCHID REVIEW, JUNE, 1946
Page 47
A Wardian Case
I. S. DAVIS, Major A.C. (U.S. Army )
eeuciiduals living in congested areas in large a of the United States enjoy the pleasure Of growing orchids in their homes and apartment Bai zy utlizing small hot houses or glass cases mat only called Wardian Cases. With such an gement -apartment dwellers can grow their plants in their rooms, small confined porches, ase in extended and enlarged window boxes, a ereby enjoy the extreme beauty and in- meee forms of lovely orchids. A Wardian aie is a term loosely applied to any case or ae ee sy for growing orchids, the dimen- aa of which are so small as to prohibit an tvidual from entering; in other words, a hot- Peawec miniature. For example, a case may -feet long, 24 feet wide and 3 feet high. : t SENS ORES be one constructed especially for ae pee or else a show case may be obtained eee ified to meet the requirements of the ur. Some people are fortunat enough to aan’ purchase a second hand show case, oe instrument cabinet, or an especially well- structed book case, which with a few slight Bier atons can be made readily applicable as were. vr house. Other amateurs feel the urge aR Sa and so by themselves, or